We have had earlier, laudatory postings here on the Net concerning the Key West city mooring field off Fleming Key (serviced through the Key West City Marina on Garrison Bight), but, speaking in my role as editor, I can tell you from personal experience that Captain Colket has a point in his remarks below. I guess it all depends on wind direction and speed, but I have been in this field when it was very comfortable, and at other times, we did a passable imitation of a Mexican jumping bean.
I must take exception regarding the Key West mooring field. I spent one December there. The nearest protection to the north is the Florida Panhandle. There was a persistent two foot chop the entire month, sometimes more. The dinghy ride to the dock was fun if you like getting soaked. By the way, they didn’t tell us the moorings do not have pendants attached. We arrived after the office closed, and had to put crew overboard to attach a line to the mooring. There have been many reports of boats dragging the moorings there. Nancy came close to going home, and I was one day away from giving the boat away by the time we found another location. Garrison Bight Marina is a good alternative to the expensive marinas downtown. Best way to visit Key West is by car. Happy cruising, Peter Colket
The inexpensive Key West Shuttle is one of the best ways for cruisers to get around ashore in this fascinating community. Thanks to Captain Bill for providing this great means to access info about this service.
Browse this site for all sorts of info on the Key West shuttle: http://www.keywestcity.com/department/?fDD=14-0 Note that seniors can ride one way for $.50. The shuttle does stop at the Key West Airport and many places in Marathon and Big Pine Key. You will need exact fare. The website has a number you can call for real time information (305-809-3910). Bill Donovan
Well, it’s not the cheapest night’s entertainment I’ve ever come across, but it sure sounds like a LOT of historic FUN. Those fortunate cruisers who are visiting Key West this January, should seriously consider marking this event on their calendars!
Step back in time and enjoy an opulent night of period costumes, dinner, dancing and fireworks, celebrating the glories of the Flagler era. From 6-10 p.m. at the historic Casa Marina – A Waldorf Astoria Resort, located at 1500 Reynolds Street. Seats limited; 180 guests maximum. Tickets are to be available for purchase at the Flaglerkeys100 site. Cost per person: $100, includes one hour of open bar cocktails, dinner, beverages, fireworks as well as a silent auction to benefit Friends of Old Seven, a nonprofit organization formed as a community effort to save, enhance and maintain the historic Old Seven Mile Bridge in Marathon, a significant piece of railroad history. More details to follow, check: http://www.flaglerkeys100.com/flaglers-100th-anniversary-gala-costume-ball
Galleon Marina will be the first marina that will come abeam to your starboard side as you enter Key West Bight. This facility has an excellent reputation, and it certainly lies right in the heart of Key West!
Spent another month here (6/2011) as we try and do every year. John and his entire staff are welcoming and terrific at helping captains dock. Each slip holds ONE boat ‘“ no worries about hitting your slipmate! My husband waxes the hull each year during our stay. Close to all the action and super staff have made this our choice for over 10 years. K. Reilly
There is something pleasingly ironic that worthy sushi is hard to find in Florida and in particular the Keys, so when Heidi Garbo, my favorite foodie informant in Key West and proprietor of Garbo’s Grill, told me there is superlative sushi here, she got my attention.
It’s a good thing I trust Heidi, because there is no way I would have spent good cold cash on sushi in a restaurant named Ambrosia that is on the site of a hotel named Santa Maria, and has a modernist sleek interior architecture that is the antithesis of Conch. In fact, I nearly turned around when I saw the front door, and nearly left when I passed the glass-looking-like-waterfall room dividers and followed the blond-haired waitress with an East European accent to our table.
We ordered sushi despite the menu offering several items I remember well from Japan and don’t often see on menus in the states. Salmon skin roll, a vegefuto roll (a scaled back futomaki), and the Ambrosia sushi for one. It was more than enough. The miso soup that quickly arrived at our tables was special. Beautiful broth, not too salty, sweet flavor of miso really there — not just salty water with a fat globule. Shitake mushroom slices… excellent quality tofu… I’m already a happy girl. Auspicious beginning to what turned out to be some of the finest sushi either of us has had.
The Ambrosia Sushi assortment on the menu at first glance looks pricey for $40, but if you look at how many pieces of sushi it includes, it’s actually almost a bargain. It’s plenty for two people to share if you can get past feeling like a cheep skate and doing the share. The salmon skin roll had perfectly crisped and crunchy salmon skin — fresh and perfect. This is a roll that is only good when it’s great, so I view it as a sushi test. The vegefuto was an excellent contrast to the salmon skin, slightly sweet pickled vegetable and small enough to make it more manageable than a futomaki, one of my personal favorite sushi rolls. We were so impressed we came back for lunch and focused on a few special rolls.
So much for judging a restaurant by its name, hotel ambiance and architecture. Extra bonus is that just down the street is the southern most point of the United States. You can stand on the sidewalk and if there’s a fresh breeze (that’s sailor speak for big uncomfortable wind) blowing, watch the waves splash over the retaining wall.
It’s a little over a mile’s walk to Ambrosia from the Key West Bight Marinas or you can take the Green bus on Caroline Street there and the Blue bus back. If you like sushi and Japanese food, this is a great excuse to see this part of Key West. Ambrosia is located at 1401 Simonton Street; they offer lunch from 11:30 to 2, Monday through Friday, including bento box and other lunch specials. They serve Dinner seven days a week from 6 to 10. From the action we saw on Saturday night, we recommend reservations on weekends. Wish I could tell you about the miso cod or the various home made dumplings — it’s just that we had a hankering for the rolls when we went back. If someone reading this review samples some of the other items on the menu, please post and share your experience. Captain Jane S/V Lady Jane
Here’s a short article from our Florida Keys Correspondent, Captain Charmaine Smith Ladd. This news will be of interest to anyone cruising to the Florida Keys from the Bahamas or other waters outside the USA!
March 9, 2011 Marathon, FL Keys – One Step Closer to Becoming International Port of Entry by Charmaine Smith Ladd Ryan McCarthy reported in today’s edition of the Keynoter that Governor Rick Scott has endorsed the city of Marathon’s efforts to become a Port of Entry for international travelers. It is documented in a letter sent by Governor Scott to U.S. Customs and Boarder Patrol on March 3rd. This is great news! Locally, this has been a well-known pet project of Marathon City Councilman Dick Ramsay. With the possiblity of Cuba opening up to U.S. travelers, touting Marathon as a Port of Entry surely makes sense. Currently, international travelers arriving in Marathon (via air or sea) travel to Key West to check-in with U.S. Customs. It would be highly ideal to have both the City of Marathon’s Airport as well as Boot Key Harbor serving as Ports of Entry. This would make compliance with checking in to U.S. Customs in a timely manner a much simpler process for those travelling by boat. Charmaine Smith Ladd, s/v September Sea SSECN Correspondent “Bringing you the low down from down low!”
If you are in Key West, or plan to visit this vibrant community during the 2011 winter season, run, don’t walk, to Captain Jane’s find, Garbo’s Grill!!!!!!
Garbo’s Grill Talks! Recipe for good food: fresh, top quality ingredients, imagination and love. That may be the reason that regulars flock to Garbo’s Grill food stand in Key West on Greene Street, with over 80 of them receiving daily emails of today’s specials. Just across from the pepper store, there she is, Heidi Garbo herself, a legend in the minds of anyone who has eaten one of her justly famous mahi (with a slice of mango!) burritos. We chowed down the hefty fresh Mahi burrito and, because we like you, tried that day’s special of conch seviche. The burrito, which is a burrito despite internet posts that it is a taco, is substantial and made from freshly grilled Mahi, mango, cilantro, cabbage and a mayonnaise-based Caribbean sauce — you can add fresh jalapeno too if you’d like a little extra kick. Delicious and a good deal at $8. The seviche at $9 was a hefty portion of conch and chopped vegetables served in a clear plastic drinking cup; very spicy (Heidi says it depends on the particular jalapeno, so the heat varies), bracing hit of lime juice and I forgot what else that she says tenderizes the conch. Maybe it was papaya juice. No matter, bottom line, the glass that had been half full of ceviche, was quickly empty. Other menu items that day were black and blue burgers, angus hot dog and chicken quesadilla. Heidi knows real food, as in foodie-level food, so even if the label is ordinary, I think you can count on it being worth eating. Garbo’s food talks and it says: a restaurant doesn’t need walls, it doesn’t even need chairs. Wander by hungry for breakfast or lunch. We can’t guarantee the hours and I don’t remember the exact address — do road stands have addresses? In Key West, probably. Oops, just looked it up: 603 Greene Street. The hours? I’m not sure, but it’s often. Check the photo of the posted hours and you’ll know as much as I do. Extra bonus — if you want to know where else to eat in town, ask Heidi or check out her restaurant reviews. We’ll be posting two reviews of Heidi’s top pick restaurants — they were both superb. Thank you, Heidi! Captain Jane S/V Lady Jane
The Garrison Bight ‘“ Fleming Key Mooring Field may just be the best buy in Key West. Of course, I have yet to find anything that could accurately be described as “inexpensive” in this vibrant community!
Very reasonable for Key West. Long dinghy ride to the dinghy docks, but the bathrooms and laundry facilities are fairly new and clean. You do not want to be here with any signifigant northerly winds, in particular, you will need to ride it out on your vessel and do not attempt to dingy ashore without full foul weather gear as it builds up a chop in a hurry. S/V Arkeoo
Sounds like cruisers will need to get their hands on a rental car, or courtesy car, to take advantage of the dining attraction described below, but it also sounds as if it might be well worth the effort!
If you can drive to MM 22.5 you’ll find the `Square Grouper’ ‘“ one of the BEST restaurants I’ve ever eaten in, and clean ‘“ it’s so clean I swear you can eat off the floor. When I complemented the owner on the cleanliness, she said I ought to see the kitchen, `it’s even cleaner!’ GREAT!!!! August Trometer
Sounds GOOD, but you will need auto transportation to take advantage of this dining find!
If you can drive to MM 22.5 you’ll find the `Square Grouper’ ‘“ one of the BEST restaurants I’ve ever eaten in, and clean ‘“ it’s so clean I swear you can eat off the floor. When I complemented the owner on the cleanliness, she said I ought to see the kitchen, `it’s even cleaner!’ GREAT!!!! August Trometer
Well, I’m glad to hear that some of my earlier comments inspired Captain Jane to discover more healthy eating in Key West, BUT with alcohol also on the premises!
Claiborne “complained” in his introduction to my recent review of the organic health food restaurant “help yourself” that it doesn’t offer Mount Gay Rum… Well, Claiborne, since you mentioned it…. It just so happens that the human crew of Lady Jane just ate at a Key West health food restaurant where you don’t have to bring your own. The sign in the window says it all: Beer, Vegan, Vegetarian, BBQ Unwing Dings. How Key West loves internal contradiction! Tawdry bars, fried fish, restaurants with no complete walls and some with none at all… boozing until the wee hours and then somewhere else, not so much in full view are the health food folks, classical music concerts in the Episcopal church and yoga on the beach… We present to you, on the health food side, complete with internal contradiction, The Cafe. Its specialty? Organic food and organic microbrews and wine. Here you can sin — organically. The perfect place for a mixed marriage — where one partner needs beer and one needs to eat organic and vegan. Vegan items are clearly marked with asterisks; for those who need animal protein, there is fresh tuna and mussels, and if I’m remembering correctly the specials when I was there included local shrimp. Gorgonzola, fresh mozzarella, goat cheese, feta cheddar are among the cheeses that can be added to sandwiches. If you are vegetarian, or even hardcore vegan, this is a find. The Cafe makes its own seitan (an Asian-style high-protein wheat gluten that is often used as a “mock” meat) and it’s chewy and the best I’ve tasted — it bears no relationship to the packaged kind I’ve bought in supermarkets. The veggie burger is made with legumes, carrots, broccoli, mushroom, scallions and sunflower seeds — this is no skinny pre-packaged Boca Burger. Crisp outside and yummy on garlic Ciabatta bread. Falafel is excellent and the salad elements fresh. The stir fry is huge, especially if you add a protein, the brown rice perfectly done and the peanut sauce we tried was excellent, not too sweet and not overpowering — it had just the right hint of peanut to make it unctuous, not deadly. There are vegetable stir fry dishes, sandwiches, salads, pizzas and a category called “Food Food” that includes BBQ tofu, kung pao tofu, polenta cakes, seared yellowfin tuna, udon bowl, mussels, quiche, lasagna and a pasta of the day. Everything we tried was first rate, cooked with care and good fresh ingredients. We’ve been here three times and still like it. The Cafe is located at 509 Southard Street, just off Duval. It is open Monday through Saturday, 11 to 10 PM. http://theCafeKW.com Captain Jane S/V Lady Jane
No guarantees, but it certainly might be worth a try!
Cruising News: We love coming to the Keys each winter. Good friends, weather, great boating,… However, it gets old when you constantly read stories in the local papers about the need to increase or invent new TOURIST TAXES to pay for the locals’ government needs (never, of course, any suggestion about imposing an income tax). We’ve also noticed that many cafes and restaurants add a tip to your bill without prior notification (check your bill!). A group of friends recently did the Duval Shuffle. When they returned to one of the bars, the server asked, “Are you locals?” My smart friend quickly answered “Yes” and like magic they got a big reduction on their bar bill. The Keys are a tourist mecca, but it gets annoying when you’re constantly reminded that through the eyes of “locals” you are viewed as a cash cow. Wade Ehlen
Conch Harbor is one of four outstanding marina facilities overlooking the shores of Key West Bight. The others are Galleon Marina, A&B Marina, and Key West Bight City Marina. All are within easy walking distance of Key West’s many dining, shopping and diversionary attractions.
We went with Conch harbour in the end as the other downtown marinas were charging $4.50 a foot with a five day minimum. We booked into conch for the 3 days that we needed (no five day min) and they were a buck a foot cheaper. Jonah
The Degroots have some excellent suggestions for enjoying Key West during the holidays, both on and off the water.
The “walk to town” marinas are in the Key West Bight. We stayed at the Galleon Resort and Marina for a month. Plenty of room except for New Years eve. Galleon is the only marina with floating docks in the bight. Only place with a small beach next to the outdoor bar. Galleon is also a timeshare so if you have friends coming down they can stay there as well. I think the Hyatt is next to that and they have great holiday buffets. The folks at A&B Marina (fixed docks, most without finger piers) next door aren’t particularly fond of the racing sailboats or race week so you can most likely get a slip there. Again, New Year’s is tricky. This bight itself is a “happening place.” But you really do need to chill out a while before you amble over to Schooners. The dog sits on a bar stool and drinks beer from a mug, but the bands are great – if you get my drift. If you’re there over New Year’s. They lower a wench from the yard arm to count down the seconds before midnight. There are three or so other marinas in the bight. Just keep in mind you need to make reservations well in advance. The marinas up closer to the mouth of the bight are a bit more on the rolly side (you’re sideways to the opening. Lots of traffic including tour boats. Go for a monthly rate. Even if you only stay a couple weeks, it’s still less expensive. Have fun, we did. Bob & Kemba DeGroot Aboard M/V Spirit Dancer
Below, you will read a series of messages that have passed between the Salty Southeast Cruisers’ Net and Roger Bernstein, a developer who is seeking approval to establish a planned mooring field off the Key West waterfront, around Wisteria (Christmas Tree) Island. We are glad to bring this proposed project to the collective attention of the cruising community, but the appearance of this posting should in no way be inferred as approval or recommendation of this field by the Salty Southeast Cruisers’ Net.
Claiborne, We are seeking approval to install a 116 ball mooring field at Wisteria Island in Key West Harbor. Good depth, dinghy dock and all support facilities on the Gulf side of the Island. We plan scheduled water taxi service from the Island to the Westin dock in Key West. Check out the website and please contact me to discuss. Roger
I e-mailed Roger and asked him for the website’s URL, referred to in the message above, and received the following response.
Claiborne, The site can be found at http://www.kwharbormoorings.com We are getting serious and noisy opposition from the no-growth segment of the Key West community. They oppose the project, particularly the requested zoning designation that would let us do the mooring field and limited upland development. I have explained that the infrastructure necessary to proceed can not be supported by the mooring field alone. Their site, http://www.savewisteriaisland.com The proposed 116 ball mooring field is linked to the 22 acre Island we own in the harbor, 2500 feet offshore. We plan to service the mooring field from the upland on the island and to provide scheduled water taxi service to the Westin Hotel docks so people can leave their dinghies on the Island. Thank you, Roger
Claiborne, This is a private venture-100% open to the public, but not operated by the City. Roger
“Amen,” to the recommendation of Captains Joe and Mary Beth below. I think I remember having some of the best Key West times we’ve ever experienced at Schooners Wharf Bar!!!!! This great watering hole is found harborside in Key West Bight!
A trip to Key West is never complete without an afternoon (12 -5, any day but Tuesday) to Schooner’s wharf bar (outdoor tiki bar downtown). Music by Michael McLeod, throw a $5 in his jar and ask him to play the National Anthem of the Conch Republic. Have Fun!! Joe & Mary Beth Amelia S/V “Pot ‘O’ Gold”
Galleon Marina is truly one of the finest facilities in Key West. It is located in Key West Bight. Just be sure to check our Florida Keys Marina Directory listing (see below) for the latest transient dockage rates to avoid surprises.
We go to Key West often since it is only a little more that 100 mile from here in Naples. We always stay at the Galleon Resort and Marina. It is very close to all the action on Duvall St., Mallory Square, etc. with many restaurants within easy walking distance, and several adjacent to the yacht basin. Mike
The city of Key West is seriously considering the establishment of a mooring field around Wisteria/Christmas Tree Island. Only time will tell if this popular anchorage morphs into a mooring field.
The last time we were here, the anchorage was an overcrowded assemblage of derelict boats-many of which were liveaboards who never left their mooring. It was too crowded to anchor safely and frankly, I wouldn’t anchor there under those conditions. It may have changed since the advent of the new mooring field and perhaps the derelict boats have gone. Ron
The posting below was copied from the Cruisers Forum (http://www.CruisersForum.com). I suspect one of the marinas on Stock Island that Captain Lorenzo is referring to is Safe Harbor Marina. This is a truly laid back sort of place!
What a lovely stay we had in Key West. We highly recommend staying at one of the marinas on Stock Island, quiet laid back with great restaurants, fresh seafood right off the boat, and the price is right. If you don’t mind staying at a boatyard or have some work to do, check out Robbies on Shrimp Rd. Now we’re off to Cape Cod for some real lobster. Lorenzo B
Hmmmmm! Other nearby alternatives are the marinas in Key West Bight, and the city marina in Garrison Bight.
We just spent four very uncomfortable days at this marina. The docks are in disrepair and the surge is unbelievable all day long. While the marina is in the thick of things, skip it! Sheldon Gawiser
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