I'm looking for input from Listees who have cruised the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway.
I'm thinking of running my TomCat to the Florida Keys from Lake Ontario in the fall. I've never cruised the ICW and I don't own a truck; thus, the idea of running the 1,800 miles on its own bottom.
(The TomCat is a 24-foot trailerable powercat with a pilothouse and cruising accommodations. It's powered by twin Yamaha 100 outboards and can easily run at 20 knots all day, if conditions permit.)
The idea is a cruise, not a delivery south. I'm thinking of being under way three to fours per day about five days a week. That might make 300 miles per week or six weeks for the distance. I'd leave Lake Ontario in early October.
Am I being too ambitious or too timid about the rate of progress?
The great thing about the ICW is you can take it at your own pace. The only issue I see with your boat is the trip north of the Chesapeake. From there on take as much time as you need. I suggest you get Dozier's Waterway guides for lots of information along the way. You can also find a lot of info at http://www.cruisersnet.net/index.php from folks that have recently been down the ditch. We have made about 10 trips and still love it. Leaving as far north as you will in October is going to be a challenge weather wise on your boat. You will probably spend considerable time waiting for the right weather to make some passages. So you will need a good source to be able to access weather along the way.
Good luck,
We aim for 60 nm a day about 4 days a week (touring, adventure, or weather usually eat the other 3 days on average).
You'll have no draft concerns with the TomCat throughout the skinny,problem areas. None of that should be a concern to you at all. Youcould even skip most of the offshore parts of NJ by staying inside withyour draft (and some minor planning).
The only thing that I'd think twice about with your plan is your October start. I'd sort of want to be in the Chesapeake by the beginning of October and follow the nice weather south. Otherwise, you'll have some chilly days and nights and some worse weather to deal with.
The ICW is a wonderful trip and makes you truly appreciate the east coast of the United States. There are many adventures along the way and a tremendous amount of exploring that is possible. Leave early, take your time, and don't have any schedule to keep.
You can do it at the pace you suggest or a little faster in some areas or slower… any pace works on the ICW.
Leaving early october should work, although it gets a little chilly then, but being from Ontario that shoudln't be a problem for you…
at 24' you may have to wait for decent weather to do the short run from cape May to the Jersey ICW, which you will be able to take with your boat.
The next hurdle will be the run up the delaware bay, it can get nasty with short steep waves…
After the Cheasapeke you will have a handful of open stretches like the Albermarle Sound and aligator river, the Neuse River, etc the rest is pretty much inland waters and shouldn't be a problem.
Salty Southeast Cruisers Net and Active Captain are good resources, for marinas
IT's a great trip, so much to see, so much to do!
We cruised the AICW for the first time this past year. Many list members have much more experience than I do, but I'll share my thoughts so you can evaluate how they apply to your trip. First, I too wondered how much distance we could make each day and what a comfortable day was. In our 7 knot boat we averaged 8 hours a day, with a handful of 12 hour days. Some would say this is way too fast, but for Marian and I it worked. With your speed you can stop at the same places we did, yet spend a fraction of the time underway. We faced draft issues at 4 spots along the way. Your cat
will not have any issues, so your unencumbered by the tides. That will mean you have no reason to make a 12 hour day. The biggest issue you will need to address is the areas where your exposed to significant fetch, which in bad weather may cause sea state issues. For many the voyage from NY to Cape May must be done outside, but again, you may have the option of going inside. In that case you have the Delaware Bay, Chesapeake Bay, Albemarle & Pamlico Sounds, Cape Fear River and a few places where the ICW is exposed to the ocean swell to be concerned about. We opted to have our boat 2/3rds of the way up the Deleware Bay by Oct 1 to insure we didn't get stuck with weather issues. This was a good move, but even with this timing we got pinned down 4 times during our trip south. Some long time cruisers of the AICW said this year was worse than past, but others said it was typical. If I didn't have the agenda of viewing the Fall Colors by RV I would have started our trip south a bit sooner, and perhaps gone slower. It seems that most people try to time their arrival at the FL/GA boarder with Nov 1, the end of the most insurance policies hurricane exclusion period. If you don't have such concerns than you can leave later, just realize your more likely to get delayed. Of course with a 20 knot boat you can make some serious distance in a long day, something we couldn't even consider. The other concern I've heard about leaving later is fuel availability, again, not a concern for us as we only filled a half dozen times from Seattle to Boston and back to FL. The only other thing I'd throw at you is to ask what speed your comfortable navigating at. In some of the trouble spots (Lockwoods Folly, Jekyll Island…) I slowed to idle speed. The thought of moving through much of the AICW at 20 knots is foreign to me, it would increase the stress a bit. Anyway, I don't know that this helped, just my thoughts.
Good Luck, I'm sure you will have a wonderful trip.
300 miles a week on the ICW is fairly leisurely, especialy with a 20 kt boat. We usually make 250 to 300 SM (get used to it, everything is in statute miles on the ICW) a day on Pooh, making 7 kts (8 mph). I agree with the other posters who suggested leaving a bit earlier than Oct 1, I'd try to get to Cape May, NJ by then.
My favorite navigation guide is still Skipper Bob's "Anchorages along the ICW". Everything I need, nothing I don't.
Using 10 hours of daylight, you really can't and should not travel the ICW at night, for you to cover 250 to 300 miles per day obviously means traveling 25 to 30 MPH, not 8 MPH. We generally cover 50 to 75 miles per day on a leisurely pace and that places us at good anchorages along the entire route.
My heart started to race when I read you wanted to do the ICW. We, inspite of all the effort required, look back on our journey up and down the ICW and realize that we loved every minute. Can we come with you- please… please.
To allow us a few thoughts not mentioned so far, on other posts:
Traveling the ICW, like everywhere is determined by the weather; something we all probably acknowledge, but often ignore. In the ICW, since it is a "protected" body of water, it is easy to ignore this, but when approaching inlets and the larger bodies of water, the weather is a big consideration.
The time available to travel is usually determined by the daylight available (which can be determined by looking in the Nautical Almanac). However, there were several times when we extended our distance by traveling through dark or fog- this does require close attention to dead reckoning, but for us the challenge (with no electronics) made it fun. The distances went minutes to minutes, instead of the greater distances expected when in more open bodies of water. The fun was exaggerated even more so, in the areas that snaked around. Ironically, we never were "delayed" when traveling like this, probably because we paid attention to details, like staying in the channel!
Often asked how we did it, we explain that we used basic dead reckoning- course to steer, time to next mark (distance divided by our speed), a clock (and at times, a timer) at the helm and having the chart person telling the helmsperson, what to expect- straight, curves, the next marker's characteristics, dangers, etc. When in doubt, we stopped or slowed down until the uncertainty was resolved. This is even easier with a full moon, but much more fun with a new moon, especially in the fog.
With a perusal of your charts, you will probably notice many potential anchorages not included in anchoring lists, that could be of use to you, since you have a boat that has less draft than most. Just because they are not listed, does not mean that you cannot use them. For us not to use a spot for an anchorage, we would have to identify a reason that would suggest not anchor there.
When we choose to anchor at night and want it more likely that we will be seen, we keep more than our anchor light lit. We never hesitated to light our steaming light and our stern light. As far as we know, nothing prevents the use of more lighting (white); your imagination sets the limits. (Since inland regs, unlike in international waters, identify a strobe light as a distress signal, this is an option that we do not use.)
With very few exceptions, there are few designated anchorages along the ICW and having the appropriate day shape, though something seldom seen used, could prove important. The concern here is more legal than practical. We did see a tug/barge run over an anchored boat who was not exhibiting a ball, a situation which probably would have been avoided, under the circumstances, if the tug's captain could have recognized that the boat was anchored. We suspect that the anchored boat, being out of, but beside the channel, will probably share some of the fault, since he was not showing the proper day shape.
Anchoring- mud is the type of bottom that you will find most of, if not, all the way until south of St Augustine, Fl. So, ground tackle and anchoring techniques will need to conform to this.
We found good use for both the Current Tables and the Tide Tables, although Jill found use for the tide tables more often since her "delays" were "bigger" than mine.
Other than "high" winds (what parameters to put on high is dependent on you and your boat), the only consideration we gave to the wind was when they conflicted, in direction, with the current, even though the ICW is "protected" waters. We crossed one inlet, when, halfway through, a minor turn in the channel allowed the current to oppose the wind and we found ourselves in 4 foot seas breaking on our beam, with no opportunity to turn around. Once again we learned something!
Even though it is difficult to correlate the currents with the current tables in areas where the Atlantic ICW was interspersed with inlets, the general rule that we found useful, was that tidal changes start north and progress south. It was this pattern that governed the direction of the currents more so than the distance to the next inlet. This was particularly notable in areas that aligned north/south. In the areas that aligns east/west, the current tables seemed to relate more accurately to the currents. Even with this concept, the best we could do is anticipate what we would find, not what time or in what location we would find it. Logic would assume that the current would change half way to the next inlet, but this does not happen. The direction of the current in the ICW, from the inlet immediately to the north of the segment being traveled, seems to dominate until close to, or at, the inlet to the immediate south. (Hope this makes sense, as we seem
to have difficulty explaining it.)
I have a couple of points to add about the ICW experience for yourconsideration. We haven't done the trip recently, so listees reading this might want toupdate these points.
a.. Navigation. Life became much easier when we converted to computer aided navigation. A notebook powered by a pocket inverter using raster charts enabled us to see our 'little red ship' following the magenta line. We also used the NOAA small craft charts which are the exact charts shown on the computer. Key to all of this is to mark your location frequently so you always know where you are. Some do this with a clothes pin, others by marking the chart with a pencil. Understanding the ICW marking system, which is explained in most Waterway Guides is also vital.
b.. Parties. Find out where they are and try to be there! Thanksgiving in Vero Beach used to be the best one. SSCA has a Gam that is worth visiting and Halloween is more fun in some places.
c.. History. The areas you will be going through have a rich past. It takes some research but it is fun to follow some of the story lines as you travel the ICW. We recommend that people start with "The Boy, Me and the Cat" by Henry Plummer which is a story about a 1912 ICW trip. One of our highlights was meeting the 'boy' in his late eighties not too many years ago.
Your question has generated many fond memories of the ICW experience. I have two more points to pass on for your consideration:
a.. Communications. We find that checking the internet daily is helpful. Many marinas have computers set up or a plug in station available but an onboard capability works best. Plan to use wireless and/or an air card. There are several web sites that post daily updates of shoaling, bridge problems and ICW status which are helpful. The internet is also a great weather source. A cellular phone is helpful for making advance reservations and even talking to bridge tenders. VHF radio is vital IMHO, we scan Ch 9, 16, and 13 to follow waterway activities. Talking to Bridge Tenders on VHF or Cell is an art form, requiring diplomacy and tact. Know your air draft and use the clearance markers, if they are there. VHF weather from NOAA often needs interpretation for the ICW. We learned the hard way that NOAA's high wind and sea warnings often do not apply to the protected waters in the ICW. We don't often use them, but there are several popular SSB and Ham Nets that cover ICW weather & condition reports and provide emergency & social contact with fellow cruisers.
b.. Waterway Manners. The ICW is shared by all types of mariners, some slower than others. Wake control is vital. Since we 'matured' from sail to power I find that I am looking aft as much as forward. We are also sensitive not to 'wake' slower craft when passing and to obey speed limits along private property and in manatee zones. The bottom line is that our limitation seems to be about six hours underway a day because of personal fatigue, even with our wonderful autopilot.
In addition to the fine advice you have already received, I would add that Mark & Diana Doyle's "Managing the Waterway" is an excellent book. You could probably do the ICW with that and a flip-chart but we always have at least three guides open…Doyle, Skipper Bob, the Waterway Guide and also Claiborne Young's guides in areas that he covers.