Elizabeth City sits at the southern terminus of the Dismal Swamp Canal and has the well-earned reputation of being a transient-friendly town with free dockage for 72 hours.
https://visitelizabethcity.com/
https://mailchi.mp/6b9d828401ba/your-next-chapter-starts-downtown
Elizabeth City sits at the southern terminus of the Dismal Swamp Canal and has the well-earned reputation of being a transient-friendly town with free dockage for 72 hours.
https://visitelizabethcity.com/
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The City of Gulfport and Gulfport Municipal Marina, A CRUISERS NET SPONSOR, always have a full calendar of events for all ages. The marina and harbor, found on the northern shores of Boca Ciega Bay, are easily accessible from the Western Florida ICW, just north of Tampa Bay.
| City of Gulfport Monday Newsletter |
Click Here To Open A Chart View Window, Zoomed To the Location of Gulfport Municipal Marina
Click Here To Open A Chart View Window Zoomed To the Location of Gulfport Anchorage/Mooring Field
Elizabeth City sits at the southern terminus of the Dismal Swamp Canal and has the well-earned reputation of being a transient-friendly town with free dockage for 72 hours.
https://visitelizabethcity.com/
https://mailchi.mp/a636a624961e/hello-november-a-beloved-story-sweet-holiday-plans?e=96d535c547
Marina Jacks and Sarasota are a favorite stop of ours when cruising Florida’s Gulf Coast. It has top-notch facilities and staff, along with a great town to visit. We particularly enjoy the Sarasota Farmers Market, which is hosted every Saturday from 7 am – 1 pm..
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Click Here To Open A Chart View Window, Zoomed To the Location of Marina Operations/Marina Jacks
Welcome aboard plethora of new subscribers! Our intro: SPARS & SPARRING—- highly recommended to explore what we’re all about. ~J
I peered out my east-facing, round, bronze port, anticipating, even this time of year in the Northern Hemisphere, to see indications of dawn. Nothing. Waning moonlight shone. I tossed, adjusted, stayed awake, gave in, looked at the clock. 1:14. Seriously? Couldn’t be. Was. My frustrated toss awoke the Sailor, who shared my surprised disappointment that it wasn’t yet morning. One final commitment keeps us dock-bound when we want, need really, to be sailing south. It is what it is. The days are passing slowly, for now. The good news is that it’s been gorgeous here, sunny, calm, warm, days and temperate nights. The bad news is this was probably our best weather window for weeks, slowly closing. It will be shut before our departure. We both know this, but haven’t said it out loud. “We’re ready to be somewhere else,” I said to the darkness, unnecessarily. “Yep.” I have a friend, close to heart, and she used to pack her bags long, long before departure for any given trip or adventure. Weeks, months even! I laughed at her while admiring the depth of enthusiasm and expectation she had for any upcoming get-a-way. Two decades later she is a true wanderer of the planet, hiking the Camino de Santiago this fall and last winter, sharing my never-to-be-forgotten escape to the Galápagos Islands as she toured South America. She also owns a Motorhome, which has been compared to my liveaboard cruising lifestyle, but is markedly different. STEADFAST and crew can’t simply pull over and rest when we’d like a break, can’t provision and refuel in every little town we see on the chart, and we can’t depart on any set date in any sort of weather. Putting a vehicle in park and hitting the ‘auto-level’ is far simpler than our substantial anchoring routine (and even more so, the up-anchor routine), but I think the wanderlust is inherent in that lifestyle choice as it is in this one (as long as you don’t just go park somewhere each season, pull out the poo chute and stay). My home is the ultimate self-contained wandering machine, really, but it’s a sailboat, and the limitations are, well, substantial. At 58ft/18m STEADFAST is relatively big, as recreational cruising boats go, with a seven-foot full keel draft (depth in the water). Now that we have made her more self-sufficient than ever, she can travel on any sea deeper than three meters (adding in a little safety margin), which describes the vast majority of the planet. On most of those surfaces, it’s not so much what you see as what you don’t see, and I think nearly everyone’s imagination runs a little wild after too many shark movies and legends of the deep. “An ocean is a desert with its life underground….” my brain often sings that phrase from the 1971 classic “A Horse With No Name” by still-touring(!) band America; founded 55 years ago. For the sake of interest, you want to run into the islands and the continents, if you know what I mean, the rest of it can get a little boring, or, worse, the waves can get remarkably large. STEADFAST has a few more restrictions for an assortment of reasons; turning radius, swing room, height. Ah, the height! She’s reportedly 64.5ft /19.7m (the US bridge standard height is 65ft). HOWEVER we do not take the chance that those six inches or so are accurately measured by the bridge folks, or by the previous owner (no offense Dmitri) or by anyone. We just don’t do it. The impressive concrete spans over the Intracoastal Waterway (see below) wouldn’t be the only thing ever to sink into southern mud! Unless the bridge height is 75+ or it opens, we choose another route, which for this upcoming passage takes us out into blue water, the mighty Western North Atlantic 110NM south of our current harbor, then around Cape Hatteras, North Carolina and through the Graveyard of the Atlantic. In all honesty, we’re happier ‘on the outside’ but it comes with hundreds of miles of far more contentious, challenging weather, water and waves. At an average of 6.5 knots or 7 miles an hour…there’s a whole lot of forecasting involved. The aforementioned passage is around 50 hours.
I recently received a message from the leader of my Grand Canyon raft trip in 2018, who I remember to be a free-wheeling character. “Wife and I just contracted to buy a sailboat, here in Maryland. Figure we can’t learn to sail without a sailboat,” he wrote to me excitedly, unexpectedly. “We hope to be down south by the first of the year.” We talked about surveys (the nautical term for a pre-purchase inspection, which my Sailor does under his company ANNAPOLIS MARINE SURVEYS, and also about taking sailing lessons, which my friend was just embarking on. Most folks take sailing lessons, in one form or another, long prior to contracting on a 240,000$ 50-footer. Go big, I thought as I replied, inquiring about particulars. The back of my mind was nibbling on the reality that sailing is a tremendous learning curve, circular, or wavy, or a figure-eight, even, when you cross a path you thought you had already tread and someone changed the direction of the wind, the waves, the tide, the current and then you need to shift your understanding, tack, as it were, to open your mind to the multitude of possibilities that could happen next while looking at the compass and the 360-degree horizon line and the chart and the depth and where you put your feet and the top of the sails to ensure there is no luff, no inefficiency, and still take time to photograph the sunrise (which can draw a frown from the more practical member of the crew). And then you wonder, as you leave the coastline behind. You feel remarkably smaller than you ever imagined you could feel on a substantial, forty-two ton vessel, you wonder what’s next.STEADFAST is roomy and soulful with abundant character; we’ve added many of the live-on-land amenities to which we are fortunate enough to be accustomed. I’m not afraid to admit that it’s an important part of my experience out here, life well lived and for the most part, comfortable. I’ve worked hard to be where I am, and I’m not out to prove anything, I don’t covet hardship. Sometimes everyone gets it anyway, regardless of where we dwell. Even with all the modern conveniences, Mother Nature could sink us with hardly a trace. In minutes. The chances of that are pretty miniscule. You are far more likely to get into a car accident this year (.27%) than sink in a boat (.000048%). To be clear, those are sinking boat owners, the balance, the vast majority, are land-only, possessing a 0% chance.* Because shipwrecks are rare, they are also newsworthy, and frightening, to us most of all, be assured, and to those that love us. We study what went wrong, what can be learned. A whale strike, most recently, in the Southwest Pacific hit the headlines. In that case, no one is at fault. Those happen. And they change lives. Half a million dollars worth of someone’s life, and more importantly, perhaps, their dream. Someone’s dream now lies quietly thousands of feet beneath the surface of the ocean. All were rescued, an important happy ending; not always the case. On blue water, STEADFAST is but a speck compared to the planet; quarter-mile-long freighters can (and have) crushed boats such as her with the chance crossing of two rhumb lines.** It has always been remarkable to me, and I have no explanation for it, that when we do encounter another vessel, it is remarkably often on a collision course. Perhaps just to keep us on our toes. I zoomed in on Sea Stories with Duncan Hood recently (highly recommend the show); his guest’s vessel sank, he drifted across the majority of the Atlantic, east to west, on a 2M inflatable raft and crossed paths with no one. Seventy-six days (WOW), just salt water and sky and the creatures beneath him. Rather than never wanting to be wet again, he stayed on the water, went on to do risky things on small boats with few just the absolute basics. Those small craft adventurers, so popular right now, are honestly the opposite of what I want to experience. For a passage that is safe, warm, dry and well-provisioned? I’m ready. Let’s go YACHTING. I’m hoping that winter holds off just a little longer. Until next week! ~J I rambled on a little this week…too much time on my hands still…this is one of my last sunrises from the dock. Stunner. I am resuming what I called THE SUNRISE PROJECT in 2024. Each morning, wherever I am, I’ll post the actual time and location of each sunrise when STEADFAST is underway.
In case you dream (as I did) about the unique Galápagos (& welcome aboard to all you new Subscribers!). This piece is a fan favorite.
REFERENCES *statistics provided by Chat GPT ** In navigation, a rhumb line (also rhumb (/rʌm/) or loxodrome) is an arc crossing all meridians of longitude at the same angle. It is a path of constant azimuth relative to true north, which can be steered by maintaining a course of fixed bearing. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ https://fox8.com/news/whale- Yay!! You made it all the way to the VERY end. Now, THAT is a compliment. See you next time. Fair winds, my friends. Truly. ~J Random information & refreshment: Initiated in March of 2024, SPARRING WITH MOTHER NATURE was originally designed to be a sailing & travel blog, but, as in life, the unexpected happened and STEADFAST was under repair for nearly two and a half years. My subscribers and I learned, together, what it takes to save a classic wooden yacht. Way more than I ever imagined, that is for certain. In heart, soul and investment, she has required more than I ever imagined. YET, I would not make a different decision in buying her or in the quarter-million it took from my retirement funds to get her back on the water. Starting in late August of 2024, you can follow our path during the reconstruction, if you are so inclined. In November of 2026, we will once again be sailing south along the East Coast of the US, hoping for the Bahamas, and cannot thank you enough for staying aboard! It would have been easy to jump ship, but NO ONE did! For that, I am eternally grateful and more importantly, ridiculously happy to be writing these stories. I truly appreciate your support of my work. Saving a piece of maritime history is far more complicated than I ever imagined! ~J If you’re new here, please read SPARS & SPARRING, it’s essential! © 2026 Janice Anne Wheeler |
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A Gale Warning is currently active for a broad region south and southeast of Bermuda, positioned north of a weakening frontal system. Current Conditions:
Forecast for Wednesday Afternoon:
Subtropical Transition RiskThe National Hurricane Center indicates this low has a 40% chance of transitioning into a subtropical storm as it drifts slowly eastward across the west-central subtropical Atlantic. This window for development will remain open through the week before environmental conditions turn highly unfavorable by early next week. Forensic Marine Weather Expert NOAA National Hurricane Center
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When all else fails, try journalism. A Sailing Boat That Isn’t Allowed To SailThe Strange Fate of a $600 Million Engineering Masterpiece
The author is Neil Chapman, founder and CEO of Boatshed.com, an international yacht and boat brokerage group operating more than 70 offices across 18 countries. Chapman is also author of a Substack called Boatshed Neil, where he publishes stories such as this, which first appeared on November 2, 2026 and is reprinted with permission. Chapman is a Brit, by the way. I remember when “Sailing Yacht A” first appeared. She was extraordinary. Three enormous carbon-fibre masts, a futuristic hull, and engineering on a scale that challenged almost everything we thought we knew about sailing boats. People argued about whether she was beautiful or hideous. I remember thinking that whatever your opinion, somebody had actually built this remarkable thing. She was a celebrity before she’d sailed a mile. And now I look at photographs of her sitting in the Italian port of Trieste, where she’s been detained for more than four years. According to a recent CNN investigation, Italian taxpayers are spending around $30,000 a day maintaining her. My first reaction wasn’t outrage at the money. It was sadness. What an extraordinary waste of a sailing boat. $30,000 a DayCNN reports that Sailing Yacht A, valued at approximately $600 million, costs nearly $11 million annually to maintain. That sounds like an astonishing amount of money. Until you do the arithmetic. Eleven million dollars is less than two percent of the boat’s reported value. Anyone who’s owned boats for long enough knows the familiar exercise of convincing yourself that annual running costs will be relatively modest. They rarely are. Ten percent of a boat’s value annually is a familiar rule of thumb. Sometimes it’s considerably more. Superyacht operating budgets can run into tens of millions annually, although the figures vary enormously depending on size, use, crew, refits and the original cost of the vessel. Of course, maintaining a detained boat isn’t the same as operating one commercially or privately. There may be less cruising fuel and fewer hospitality expenses. Maintenance doesn’t disappear. Mooring lines and fenders chafe. Salt accumulates. Deck fittings deteriorate. Pumps, seals, hydraulics and electronics need attention. Engines and generators require servicing, and many systems need regular operation. A boat alongside isn’t a machine switched off in a warehouse. In many respects, remaining stationary can introduce problems of its own. So the question that bothers me isn’t necessarily why Italy is spending $11 million a year. It’s whether $11 million is enough. Are the authorities preserving a $600 million engineering masterpiece, or simply paying to keep her afloat and presentable? We don’t know. But it’s a question worth asking. Ships Belong to the CrewThere’s another aspect of this that I find more troubling than the money—the crew. CNN reports that twenty people are employed aboard Sailing Yacht A. Twenty sounds like a substantial number, until you consider the complexity of a 143-metre vessel. It’s not simply about numbers. Good captains don’t merely operate a boat. They develop a relationship with her. They know how she behaves, what sounds right, what doesn’t, which systems need watching and which jobs are worth doing before they become expensive problems. The chief engineer knows the machinery. The deck crew know the rigging, fittings and routines. Together they accumulate a body of knowledge that rarely exists in any single maintenance manual. And then there’s pride—pride in the boat, pride in the crew and pride in the standards they maintain. Throughout maritime history, that relationship has been fundamental to good seamanship. A captain’s standards become the ship’s standards. Now imagine that continuity being interrupted. The owner loses control of the vessel. The original captain and engineers may leave. New people take responsibility under entirely different circumstances. They may be excellent professionals. We have no evidence that the current crew are anything other than competent and conscientious. But there’s a difference between employing people to maintain an asset and maintaining the continuity of a ship’s working life. That’s something money alone cannot guarantee. History Lives AboardEvery boat carries a history that isn’t immediately visible. Not just where she’s sailed or who has owned her, but the accumulated knowledge of everyone who’s looked after her. Why a particular pump was replaced. Which hydraulic circuit has been troublesome. What happened during the last major service. The small warning signs that an experienced engineer recognises immediately. Lose the people, lose the records, and much of that knowledge can disappear. It’s one reason I find the idea of a vessel’s memory so important. Not simply a digital folder of invoices and service records, but a continuing account of the boat’s working life, her condition, the decisions made and the people who made them. That matters when a boat changes ownership, changes skipper or sits unused for years. It matters just as much to a modest second-hand sailing boat as it does to a $600 million superyacht. The physical vessel may survive, while much of the knowledge needed to care for her properly disappears. Why Not Sell?That was my next reaction. If the boat is costing taxpayers millions, why not sell her? The answer is considerably more complicated than it first appears. Sanctions aren’t the same as confiscation. A government may have the authority to prevent somebody from using, moving or benefiting from an asset without acquiring ownership of it. The underlying principle is that sanctions impose restrictions while particular circumstances persist. They don’t automatically transfer private property to the state. If the restrictions are eventually lifted, the owner may be entitled to recover the asset. That’s an important distinction, even when the owner is unpopular. A forced sale creates problems of its own. Suppose somebody commissioned a boat for $300 million. Years later, under distressed circumstances, it might fetch $150 million. Those are illustrative figures, but the commercial problem is real. Superyachts are highly individual assets. Buyers are relatively scarce, valuations can be uncertain and a rushed sale may crystallise an enormous loss. Builders, brokers, lenders and owners all have legitimate interests in avoiding unnecessary damage to the market. There have been exceptions. The superyacht Axioma was sold through judicial proceedings in Gibraltar in 2022, but that followed creditor action over a loan default. It wasn’t simply a government selling a boat because its owner was sanctioned. The law can provide routes to a sale, but they depend on the circumstances and the legal authority involved. Temporary but PermanentThe motor yacht Phi, detained in London since March 2022, provides another example. In July 2025, the UK Supreme Court upheld her detention. The court considered the financial consequences, including maintenance expenditure, lost charter income and deterioration in the vessel’s condition and value. It also recognised that arrangements could be made for maintenance movements under suitable security conditions. The legal system isn’t necessarily ignoring the practical consequences of detention, but it accepts that economic pressure on the owner is part of the purpose of sanctions. That’s where the contradiction lies. Some financial damage is exactly what sanctions are designed to cause. But is every consequence of leaving a boat immobilised for years necessary to achieve that purpose? Sanctions may be legally reversible. Deterioration isn’t always. Four years is a long time in the life of a boat. Eight years would be longer. Ten years?Equipment ages, technology becomes obsolete, maintenance bills accumulate and the people who once knew the vessel move on. The boat may eventually be returned to its owner, but that doesn’t mean she’ll be the same boat that was detained. Think Differently?Perhaps we’ve become too accepting of the idea that these boats have only two possible futures. Remain detained indefinitely, or be confiscated and sold. Or are there other possibilities worth exploring. What if the Italian authorities invited properly qualified, financially backed teams to propose ways of maintaining Sailing Yacht A as a working sailing vessel? Not simply keeping her safe alongside, but exercising her systems, preserving her sailing capability and maintaining the knowledge and skills associated with operating her. Could controlled sailing within Italian waters be authorised? Could some form of government-supervised charter operation contribute towards maintenance costs, with any revenue handled under appropriate legal restrictions? Imagine giving a professional captain and crew the responsibility, resources and opportunity to keep one of the world’s most remarkable sailing boats doing what she was built to do. There are substantial obstacles. Sanctions restrict economic use, not merely movement across national boundaries. Any such arrangement would need proper legal authority, insurance, safety oversight and safeguards to prevent prohibited benefits reaching the owner. It might not be permissible at all under the present arrangements. Commercial operation would introduce costs and risks of its own. But I’m not proposing this as a ready-made solution. I’m suggesting that perhaps we should be asking more imaginative questions. If we’re already spending $30,000 a day, could that expenditure support a programme that preserves the boat as a functioning sailing machine, rather than simply as an immobilised asset? And could that be done without undermining the purpose of the sanctions? Surely those possibilities deserve examination. What Is Preserved?I keep coming back to the photographs. When Sailing Yacht A first appeared, she represented extraordinary ambition. Naval architects, engineers, designers, builders and sailors had combined their skills to create something that had never existed before. You didn’t have to like her appearance to appreciate the achievement. And now she’s become a problem for lawyers, politicians, insurers, accountants and port authorities. Each has a legitimate responsibility. The law must protect property rights while enforcing sanctions. Governments must consider public expenditure. Insurers must manage risk. Port authorities must ensure safety. But somewhere in that process, the purpose of the boat seems to have been lost. She was built to sail, not to spend year after year tied to a quay while people argue about who should pay the bill. I don’t know whether the Italian authorities are maintaining her adequately. I don’t know whether a different arrangement would be legally possible or economically sensible. And none of this is an argument against sanctions or an appeal on behalf of her owner. It’s simply a recognition that an extraordinary piece of maritime engineering has a value beyond its price tag. There is value in the knowledge of her crew, the skills required to operate her, the engineering she represents and the experience of sailing her. Those things are difficult to put on a balance sheet, and once lost, they aren’t necessarily recoverable. Perhaps that’s what troubles me most about the whole story. We’ve become very good at identifying who owns an asset, who controls it, who pays for it and who is legally responsible for it. But perhaps we’re not always as good at remembering what it was created for. You can freeze the ownership and use of a boat. You can preserve her machinery. You can even protect her financial value. But can you preserve the spirit of a sailing boat that nobody is allowed to sail? Sources and background
A note on AI: This article was created in collaboration with AI. Sometimes we agree, sometimes we argue. The ideas, opinions and final decisions are mine. |
Elizabeth City sits at the southern terminus of the Dismal Swamp Canal and has the well-earned reputation of being a transient-friendly town with free dockage for 72 hours.
https://visitelizabethcity.com/
https://mail.google.com/mail/u/2/#inbox/FMfcgzQjgghCSRCXCbXWvzPPQLlWZfTl
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