Directly across the Sea of Abaco is the red and white striped Hopetown lighthouse on Elbow Cay. Narrow entry just to the north, 93 steps up the lighthouse, then cross the bay to a mom and pop place, large porch with tables, tie up and have a great fried conch dinner. Then go through the house, out the back door and follow the trails around the island. It's truly "old Bahamas," pastel houses, really "quaintsville" Be sure to stop at Vernon's store [like Aunt Hazels] and sample his pies, made on site. The best Key Lime pie ever. He's also the mayor.
Next island to the north is Man-of-War, a shipbuilding community, among other things, also – bags, purses, …. think 40 Bahamian women all operating old Singer sewing machines at once.
Then, further north, 5 miles ?, is Guana Cay. Orchid Island is a cool and quaint spot, known mostly for "Nipper's," a colorful sandy beachy place, all outdoors, Tiki hut, live music, …. famous for their Pig Roast every Sunday afternoon. The beach is beyond imagination! Reefs, sand, surf, and nothing but sand to see in both directions up and down the beach. We were snorkeling it with friends once when I spotted a Spinner shark, way too close, and suggested we all get out of the water. Even though we were likely quite safe, some attempted to walk on the water as they made their exit.
From Boat Harbour going south, the North Bar cut is about 9 miles, again through the beautiful and shallowish waters of the Sea of Abaco. Not to fret, just stay on proven courses / waypoints. That cut leads to the Atlantic and some of the best Blue Marlin, as well as other kinds of fishing, this world has to offer. Just inside the cut is where we brought up that sea monster, bare handed; [a giant lobster that fed 3 of us for 2 meals]. There are also about 6 tie up buoys along the west side that is some of the world's best snorkeling. It's officially a Bahamian park so leave it as it is. Look only. The mini caves and structure are flush with tropical fish. Again, stay on proven waypoints / routes.
Boat Harbour Marina is home base for us. We have a lot of fun there even if the seas are nasty. We have a couple of fold-up bikes and enjoy riding downtown Marsh Harbour to stores, restaurants, etc. We generally catch "Joe," a side-of-the-road lean-to about a half mile towards town, where he sells his early morning catch of conch and conch salad. If you're going to make your own conch salad, don't tell him or he won't sell you the fresh conch. One eatery not to miss is the Jib Room, about a mile away. Taxi's always wait at the entrance to the resort, always $10, and will take you to the Jib Room on Sunday and Wednesday evenings or anywhere for that matter. Call ahead and order chicken or ribs [get the ribs]. Its cafeteria style, all outside, several picnic tables end to end loaded with food. A line of Bahamian girls serves 2 plates of food per person, overflowing! Be there by 6:00. Bar is open. Eat at 7:00 when the bell rings. About 8:00, Brown Tip appears and the place
comes alive with his music. He plays the saw with a file, among other tones that include his personal [not Bose] sound system. The music is wild. Usually the audience participates in a "limbo" experience, and brown Tip himself is the grand finale – sliding under the flaming broomstick at
about 8", and he's over 6' tall!
The Bahamian government is presently run by liberals and they are destroying the economy by gouging the tourists, who are their life's blood! It's a "soak-the-rich" mentality. Recently, they squelched tourism further by tightening the strings on the fishing regulations bigtime. Rich friends of ours have already cancelled for this year. Elections are this May and the natives are
restless. Let's hope the other party gets back in.
If you go: cross the Gulfstream from Palm Beach heading for West End and stay overnight at Old Bahama Bay. Clear customs, enjoy the pools, beach and dinner and head east the next morning. Cross the Bahama bank, head south through the Sea of Abaco towards Whale Cay. As you pass Spanish Cay and Green Turtle, start communicating over channel 16 to northbound vessels as to what Whale Cay is like as you'll have to go out in the ocean around Whale Cay and then back in to the Sea of Abaco, due to skinny water ahead. It's only a mile or so, out around and back, but it's "beam sea" all the way, and if the ocean's rough you'll take a beating. Some stay at Green Turtle awaiting fairer weather. To attempt not to negotiate Whale Cay and go straight on through near Treasure Cay is extremely dangerous and shallow. Don't try it. The trip from Palm Beach straight through is 180 miles, and that's what we generally do. We clear customs and immigration both in the marina office.
It's easy. We've made it in 8 hours. We prefer slower, like 9 hrs. , stopping on the bank for lunch and a break.
Best thing to do is purchase "Guide to the Abacos" available at West Marine. Nothing else! It has all the waypoints, hotspots, and local information, and I promise, will result in an enjoyable
trip.
Irv Meldrim
m/v Sporty Girl
43' Mikelson

Directly across the Sea of Abaco is the red and white striped Hopetown lighthouse on Elbow Cay. Narrow entry just to the north, 93 steps up the lighthouse, then cross the bay to a mom and pop place, large porch with tables, tie up and have a great fried conch dinner. Then go through the house, out the back door and follow the trails around the island. It's truly "old Bahamas," pastel houses, really "quaintsville" Be sure to stop at Vernon's store [like Aunt Hazels] and sample his pies, made on site. The best Key Lime pie ever. He's also the mayor.
Next island to the north is Man-of-War, a shipbuilding community, among other things, also – bags, purses, …. think 40 Bahamian women all operating old Singer sewing machines at once.
Then, further north, 5 miles ?, is Guana Cay. Orchid Island is a cool and quaint spot, known mostly for "Nipper's," a colorful sandy beachy place, all outdoors, Tiki hut, live music, …. famous for their Pig Roast every Sunday afternoon. The beach is beyond imagination! Reefs, sand, surf, and nothing but sand to see in both directions up and down the beach. We were snorkeling it with friends once when I spotted a Spinner shark, way too close, and suggested we all get out of the water. Even though we were likely quite safe, some attempted to walk on the water as they made their exit.
From Boat Harbour going south, the North Bar cut is about 9 miles, again through the beautiful and shallowish waters of the Sea of Abaco. Not to fret, just stay on proven courses / waypoints. That cut leads to the Atlantic and some of the best Blue Marlin, as well as other kinds of fishing, this world has to offer. Just inside the cut is where we brought up that sea monster, bare handed; [a giant lobster that fed 3 of us for 2 meals]. There are also about 6 tie up buoys along the west side that is some of the world's best snorkeling. It's officially a Bahamian park so leave it as it is. Look only. The mini caves and structure are flush with tropical fish. Again, stay on proven waypoints / routes.
Boat Harbour Marina is home base for us. We have a lot of fun there even if the seas are nasty. We have a couple of fold-up bikes and enjoy riding downtown Marsh Harbour to stores, restaurants, etc. We generally catch "Joe," a side-of-the-road lean-to about a half mile towards town, where he sells his early morning catch of conch and conch salad. If you're going to make your own conch salad, don't tell him or he won't sell you the fresh conch. One eatery not to miss is the Jib Room, about a mile away. Taxi's always wait at the entrance to the resort, always $10, and will take you to the Jib Room on Sunday and Wednesday evenings or anywhere for that matter. Call ahead and order chicken or ribs [get the ribs]. Its cafeteria style, all outside, several picnic tables end to end loaded with food. A line of Bahamian girls serves 2 plates of food per person, overflowing! Be there by 6:00. Bar is open. Eat at 7:00 when the bell rings. About 8:00, Brown Tip appears and the place
comes alive with his music. He plays the saw with a file, among other tones that include his personal [not Bose] sound system. The music is wild. Usually the audience participates in a "limbo" experience, and brown Tip himself is the grand finale – sliding under the flaming broomstick at
about 8", and he's over 6' tall!
The Bahamian government is presently run by liberals and they are destroying the economy by gouging the tourists, who are their life's blood! It's a "soak-the-rich" mentality. Recently, they squelched tourism further by tightening the strings on the fishing regulations bigtime. Rich friends of ours have already cancelled for this year. Elections are this May and the natives are
restless. Let's hope the other party gets back in.
If you go: cross the Gulfstream from Palm Beach heading for West End and stay overnight at Old Bahama Bay. Clear customs, enjoy the pools, beach and dinner and head east the next morning. Cross the Bahama bank, head south through the Sea of Abaco towards Whale Cay. As you pass Spanish Cay and Green Turtle, start communicating over channel 16 to northbound vessels as to what Whale Cay is like as you'll have to go out in the ocean around Whale Cay and then back in to the Sea of Abaco, due to skinny water ahead. It's only a mile or so, out around and back, but it's "beam sea" all the way, and if the ocean's rough you'll take a beating. Some stay at Green Turtle awaiting fairer weather. To attempt not to negotiate Whale Cay and go straight on through near Treasure Cay is extremely dangerous and shallow. Don't try it. The trip from Palm Beach straight through is 180 miles, and that's what we generally do. We clear customs and immigration both in the marina office.
It's easy. We've made it in 8 hours. We prefer slower, like 9 hrs. , stopping on the bank for lunch and a break.
Best thing to do is purchase "Guide to the Abacos" available at West Marine. Nothing else! It has all the waypoints, hotspots, and local information, and I promise, will result in an enjoyable
trip.
Irv Meldrim
m/v Sporty Girl
43' Mikelson