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    • More Problems At AICW/Northern Mouth of Alligator River (near Statute Mile 81)

      Belhaven Waterway Marina is located on Pantego Creek in Belhaven Harbor at the 135 Mile marker on the Intracoastal Waterway We are in the center of downtown Belhaven just a short walk from the Hardwar I have lost count of the number of postings we’ve had here on the Net about the Waterway’s run through the northern mouth of broad Alligator River, just as this stream meets up with Albemarle Sound. That’s why, some time ago, we designated these waters as an “AICW Problem Stretch.”
      If you will be traversing this stretch of the AICW anytime soon, be SURE to follow the link below to our listing of these waters in our AICW Problem Stretch section.
      Thanks to Captain Mason for his very kind words concerning the Salty Southeast Cruisers’ Net. Yes, indeed, as the spring 2011 spring migration goes forward, PLEASE help us get the word out to our fellow cruisers about the quantity and quality of info available here on the Net, and all at no charge, without the need for a users name or password!

      Hi Claiborne,
      Here is a try of your new address. I hope you are feeling much better. The following was told to me by a good friend, and it is about his friend.
      This person was coming up Alligator River, heading into Albemarle Sound. He was running twenty five knots in a 47 foot Eastbay. You guessed it, he was following the magenta line on his chart and chartplotter, and hit bottom at the curve just south of number 7 and 8. The impact tore his engines off their mounts and destroyed props, shafts and rudders. The damage estimate is above $50,000. He was fortunate not to be seriously injured.
      For the few minutes it takes to review your website before each day’s run, such hazards can hopefully be avoided. We now find many cruisers who have internet access on their vessels with aircards. This issue has been noted on your website for years now, including a post from me. This area is also well covered in various publications. I really wish we in the cruising community could get the information out better about your incredibly valuable website. It is hard for me to believe that there are still a few cruisers out there who do nothing but look at the charts and their chartplotter. Fortunately most we talk to review your website as much as I do. I wonder if a flag with a logo of your website could be made available. It might prompt questions from the few who do not know of it. I would be proud to pay for and fly such a flag.
      Recently, we were returning to Norfolk from our favorite marina, Belhaven Waterway Marina, after some work there, and were followed through this area by a 42 foot Krogen. This person had softly hit bottom here on the way south.
      I led him through, and told him about your website, which he was aware of, but had not reviewed. I think he will now.
      Again, I wish you all the best.
      With warm regards,
      Norman Mason
      Peggy Sue, Monk 36

      This just brings to mind something a tugboat captain once told me about the ICW. He said to drive the markers not the chart-keep the yellow squares (usually on the green side) to starboard and the yellow triangles (usually on the red side) to port. This would have prevented that damage to the Eastbay. We now have a very happy shipyard! This group on Facebook is providing some very useful intelligence on our migration once again. A great service to ICW users. Keep up the posting.
      The above is for heading North-the addendum was to keep the green markers between you and the ocean. Reverse this for heading south.
      Also,
      To run aground on this point your going to have to pass to the WEST of the red marker on the tip of the point of land that sticks out from the west bank of the Alligator River-pretty dumb if you ask me…If you look at the markers not the chart you will be fine. Also if your not sure where your supposed to be then stop. Your supposed to pass between the red and green. It just makes a little turn here around the sand bar…..I see a boat in trouble here every trip.
      The hardest thing for a captain to do is slow down.
      Tedd Greenwald

      Transited this area in early April this year with an experienced crewmember. Like me he `refers’ to the chartplotter but `uses’ his eyes. We cleared this area with no trouble but unfortunately watched a boat behind us go aground!!!
      Capt. Larry Weiss

      I’m the Eastbay that made the mistake of relying upon the magenta line and thought I’d offer some reflections, in hopes of helping others. I sincerely wish I had known of this site [Cruisers’ Net] and will do a LOT more research in the future, including spending hours of bandwidth here. I am relatively new to cruising and unfortunately believed (ignorantly so) that I could rely on current charts. I guess my many years of flying taught me to religiously count on them, especially when they are current. Nuff said and believe me, it won’t happen again.
      My approach speed was closer to 18 kts right before entering the dog leg past the green 9. I slowed to about 15 entering the turn (NE) when the ground started coming up. There were no boats ahead of me to notice any other course.
      The depth finder said 5′ (below the hull) and then 3 so I immediately shut down the props to idle. There was a large hit, but not really a grounding. I heard a `metal on metal’ sound. We were completely stopped but floating (albeit just barely). I could feel the keel bouncing on a hard surface as the chop ran by.
      My starboard engine was all that was affected and appears to have taken the full hit; pulling the engine off it’s mount and slightly moving the strut. There is no damage, not even a scratch, to the hull. The starboard prop and shaft were moved 8-10’³ aft and the prop was impacting the rudder’¦ possibly the `metal on metal’ sound. The port engine, strut, prop and shaft were fine.
      A couple of boats came by, about 100 yds east of my location, both going from green 9 to green 7 and said they were in good water. I was facing due east at the time as the tide and chop continued to rotate me about a point. It was clear the starboard prop was hung up on something hard.
      Using the port engine and bow thruster, I was able to slowly continue to rotate (until facing due west) and back off whatever the starboard prop was sitting on, eventually getting to the line between the green 9 and green 7, which is the preferred course.
      We motored to the Alligator Marina (nice people who know quite well what the problem area is’¦ saying they see 2-3 every month) and the next morning was able to get it to a marina for repairs. At present, I have no estimate for repairs but am confident it’ll be a lot less than $50k, but in any event. it was clearly my fault for not researching the area more.
      I guess I just wanted to weigh in and admit my error and at the same time, correct the rumors which do seem to get a bit out of hand.
      Finally, it seems like even in this period of `no money Corps’ that the preferred course on charts and chartplotters could be simply adjusted for these kinds of areas when it’s apparently been known for a long time that a problem with a magenta line exists. I realize they don’t have funds to dredge, but it doesn’t seem like changing charts would be difficult since the cost is ours when we buy updates.
      Well, while I was a pilot, we used to say there were only two kinds, `those who have landed gear up; and those who have yet to..’ I guess the same goes for boating and I’m now in the former.
      Cheers, Jerry

      I can’t help myself ‘“ I just have to ask ‘“ why are people so obsessed with that magenta line? It seems to be a dangerous habit ‘“ as we’ve seen with the two prior postings ‘“ so why do people depend on something drawn by an unknown (who knows who drew it, or when, or what their capabilities were at the time, or just how outdated the information is)? Far better to use your eyes, your instruments and your charts to determine your own best course.

      Jerry replies:

      Capt Smith:
      I guess, to answer your question, `why are people are so obsessed with that magenta line’ it’s because that’s the ONLY true aid to navigation available when you’re unfamiliar with the area. The question seems to insinuate that someone is wearing blinders and not scanning the terrain. In my opinion, I find that insinuation (at least in this instance) to be an easy attack, a bit loose and off the mark.
      In the Alligator River instance, clearly the magenta line was drawn with a dogleg for a reason AND it continues to be the OFFICIAL recommended course (which clearly needs to be changed). The chart specifies that the magenta line is defined as `Channel, course, track recommended’. There is NO PHYSICAL evidence out there when cruising that magenta line that would cause you to question the recommended and charted course. Only having been there, talking to others or reading this site would allow you to know not to follow the course specifically. That’s called `prior knowledge’ and can’t be gained by looking around.
      I have also experienced a pretty bad grounding with another Captain who decided NOT to follow a doglegged magenta line (outside of Pensacola on the ICW), choosing instead to head directly from green to green. Just as in the Alligator River instance, there was NO PHYSICAL evidence available that suggested anything out of the ordinary. He used his `eyes’ and not the chart’¦ Was that wrong as well?
      I now know the Alligator River problem area pretty well. BUT, I would very much disagree that short of prior knowledge, nothing out there exists that would cause anyone to question the chart and proceed straight from green 9 to green 7, in DIRECT CONFLICT with the latest publication of a charted course.
      In my instance, I did exactly as you suggested,,, `used my eyes, instruments AND charts’. If there was anything out there that would have caused my eyes to question the instruments and finally the charts, I’d like to have it pointed out. It doesn’t exist. The ONLY reason not to follow that magenta line is to have prior knowledge, of which I claim sole personal and painful responsibility.
      Would we be having this same discussion if I posted the Pensacola grounding I spoke of? What about a time when a grounding occurs because you didn’t follow the magenta line?. I’ll wager an insurance company will be MUCH more difficult to deal with in getting the repairs accomplished in that instance. How can you explain a bad grounding when you’re OFF the magenta line? In my background, THAT would be called `Pilot Error’.
      Bottom line is, the magenta line is the best that we have, when lacking any other physical evidence. And in this instance at least, that line needs to be changed so that those of us who have never been there before can safely navigate the area without `prior knowledge’.
      Jerry

      I didn’t intend to point a finger at you [Jerry] in particular’¦. it was more of a generic comment. When I look at a chart, I guess you could say that I’m colorblind when it comes to that magenta line. It never enters into my line of sight ‘“ I don’t even see it. Never have, and never will.
      Capt. Mike Smith

      Claiborne, Beach House transited the mouth of the Alligator River yesterday and here is what we found. On the red side between R `6’³ and `8’³, even near the markers we had 9 feet. The green side is deeper with 12 feet holding about 75 feet off G `7’³ and going to G `9’³, again holding off about 75 feet. The marker for G `9’³ has been replaced and is in fine condition. The Coast Guard has placed a red nun, R `8A’ where everyone has cut through and run aground. So if the markers are followed correctly there is no reason for anyone to run aground. We will keep you posted on any further developments. From Norfolk to Adams Creek we have found nothing but good depths. We are heading south.
      Captain Chuck

      May 10, 2011
      Interesting discussion and i’m glad the incident with the East Bay wasn’t too serious.
      Couple of points i’d like to make, which apply not just to the Alligator River but to the entire ICW.
      1)- Watch the charts and look for the location of ATONs and how far off the channel they are located. How many time do we hear stories or read comments about someone running aground inside Green or Red XXX? being between the sticks isn’t enough’¦ there are many places where the marker is way off centerline and actually sits in pretty skinny water.
      Look for shoals near an ATON and if it comes close or extends into the `channel’, take this into account to give that spot a little extra clearance.
      Look for creeks, especially near inlets. This is often where shoaling will take place. A good example of this is the stretch just north of the Ben Sawyer Bridge in Charleston. Breach Inlet and its small creeks doens’t seem like much yet at every intersection you will find some shoaling (as much as 7′ MLW right now)
      2) the Magic-enta Line is a guideline, a suggestion. Usually this is where dredging will be done, and it’s also where most tugs are likely to run, making it the most likely places to find the deeper water. But, there is no guarantee and again look for signs of trouble like marker locations as mentioned previuosly, but also things like side creeks bringing silt into the channel, doglegs, etc’¦
      typically when approaching a known or possible trouble spot, I will first try the magic-enta line but will take it slow and watch my sounder, often poking on either side for best water if depth decrease on the line.
      3)- your depth sounder is your most critical instrument! more important that your radar and fancy GPS overlay, and maybe even more important than your plotter. Make sure you know where the transducer is and how much you have under the transducer. Props for a power vessel, keel for a sailboat. If you set an offset, make sure it’s accurate and make a note of it.
      Use the shallow depth alarm. Mine is set at 9′ (for a boat with a 6 1/4 draft). While the bottom can come up faster, it can alert you and save a prop!
      4)- In doubt, take it slow. again, watch your depths and the charts. If something doesn’t look right on the charts (see nr 1 above), slow down! Typically, when i get down to 10′, I slow down to fast idle. At 9′, I go to slow idle and if it really gets below 9′ I start coming in and out of gear. (again with a 6+ draft). At such low speed, I usually have enough time to throw the boat in reverse and back out of seriously shallowing water before hitting anything. The boat i run doens’t have the luxury of a keel and has 3′ props hanging off the bottom!
      5)- And above all, use the tides! usually, just 1 to 2 feet of tide is all you need to make transiting some of the worst stretches a less stressful experience. While sometimes schedule constraints may get in the way it’s often possible to get 6 to 8 hours of running with enough tide to enjoy the trip.
      Pascal aboard MY Charmer, 70’ 6+ draft

      Question from Jerry:
      Is the `Red 8A’ placed on the east side of the shoal area?
      Just curious graphically where they placed it. If so, it seems like they’ll HAVE to modify the magenta line on the charts as that would place it west of the channel and the new `Red 8A’. Thanks for the update.
      Jerry

      Red “8A” is about half way between G “7” and G “9” marking the starboard side of the channel going south or the port side heading north. Chuck

      And since the shoaling is from the west, we assume that Red Marker 8A has been placed east of the shoaling. There would be very little dogleg remaining.

      Click Here To View the Cruisers’ Net’s “AICW Problem Stretches” Listing For Northern Alligator River

      Click Here To Open A Chart View Window, Zoomed To This AICW Problem Stretch

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    • The Happy, “Rest of the Story” of the Labrador Retriever Missing in Albemarle Sound, NC

      Thanks to Captain Rogers, we hear of this happy ending to an otherwise sad story. Kudos and congratulations to the wonderful, caring Hansons for adopting another rescued dog.

      Bucky’s remains were found today at Roanoke Island by a kind fisheries ranger. He tried calling us several times and we finally had to drive halfway to town to get reception and speak to him. We would like to thank everyone for kind expressions of sympathy and creative and helpful suggestions to find him. Thank you friends, one and all ‘“ you have been wonderful.
      Jane Hanson aboard Sweet Liberty

      Yesterday, a Lab fell off a Southbound Uniflite and the couple could not find her, although she wore a yellow life preserver. It was like a
      lake so the distraught couple does not understand what could have happened. The USCG and local fishermen were notified. Tomorrow they
      will put up posters in Elizabeth City and environs. The Lab is tan and about 12 years old. She has a color with their phone number in ink,
      but they fear it washed off.
      If you learn anything, please email me or call my cell at 443-223-1559.
      Ron Rogers

      Subject:LABRADOR RETRIEVER LOST ON THE ALBEMARLE – OUTCOME
      A good holiday outcome to an otherwise sad story. Sadly, Bucky was found dead by a Ranger on the shore of Roanoke Island – 25 miles East of the channel where he was lost. The head of the Rangers was notified by a list member (of the Great Loop, T&T, or Liveaboard List) named Adam. Thank you Adam.

      The Pughs, a gracious, dog-loving couple in New Bern, NC read of the tragedy and had just participated with the Craven County Animal Shelter in the rescue of a Yellow Lab thought to have fallen out of a pickup truck in the New Bern, NC area. They had taken him to a vet for treatment after seeing him at the shelter. He had avoided euthanasia by being so sweet. The Pughs contacted me having read the first email and I asked Bucky’s parents {the Hansons} if they would like to adopt this dog who appears to be about 8 years old. They did!
      In a few days, their new dog Lucky, will travel with them to Wisconsin along with Baylor and their two cats. Hearts are mending and animals are comfortably adjusting. Everyone including Lucky remembers their past but is enjoying the present.
      Thank you to all who expressed their concern and asked to stay informed. This has been a tribute to caring people and the power of the Internet in bringing them together. And they all lived happily ever after.
      Happy Holidays,
      Ron Rogers, Washington, NC

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    • Groundings in Alligator River’s Northern Entrance (Statute Mile 80.5)

      Navigating the north entrance to the Alligator River continues to confound cruisers. That’s why we have established these waters as an “AICW Problem Stretch.” In this case, the groundings took place between Flashing Red #8 and Flashing Green #7 on the north side of the bridge.

      I came into the Alligator southbound two days ago with six other sail. One went aground on the Long Point shoal by turning too far to starboard after passing Fl Green 7. The shoal to port( southbound) does not seem to be there or is at least further east than charted. My chartplotter showed 5 feet while I was actually in 11.
      Captain Brian Walter

      Click Here To View the Cruisers’ Net’s “AICW Problem Section” Listing For Northern Mouth of Alligator River

      Click Here To Open A Chart View Window, Zoomed To the Location of the Northern Mouth of Alligator River

      Click Here To View An Earlier Posting on the Northern Alligator River

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    • A Stormy AICW/Albemarle Sound Crossing

      Any cruising on North Carolina’s Albemarle Sound, but, as it so often seems, particularly the AICW’s north to south trek across the sound’s easterly waters, can be a ROUGH and ready experience. It’s not by accident that the Albemarle is known as the roughest body of water on the Eastern Seaboard.
      So, to be crossing Albemarle Sound with water spouts in view (see below), is downright scary!

      Crossing the Albemarle yesterday was `interesting’. The wind was generally 10 knots or less and the waves were around one foot so from that stand point it was one of our nicer crossing. But we saw 5 water spouts! Only the first one was of any concern to us, about a mile or so off our port bow. Fortunately it dissipated after a few minutes. The other water spouts formed behind us about 2 or 3 miles off. Several sail boats were near them but all was ok and again they dissipated quickly.
      It was interesting that the rain showers that spawned the water spouts were neither that strong nor intense; no lighting or thunder, no heavy rain, visibility was good, etc.
      Bob & Lynn Williamson
      On Legrace in Elizabeth City

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    • Wharf Landing Marina Now Open – Lies off the southern mouth of Chowan River, at the southeastern foot of the Edenhouse Bridge

      90 Luxury Condominiums · 100 Private Boat Slips · Full Service Marina · Protected Harbor · Convenient to the Intracoastal. 800-783-8289A brand, new facility, Wharf Landing Marina has recently opened on the waters of Albemarle Sound, and the Chowan River, just west and a bit north of Edenton. The harbor will be found a short hop south of the fixed, high-rise Chowan River – Edenhouse – Highway 17 bridge, along the easterly banks.
      And, Wharf Landing Marina is our newest SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR! Please patronize Wharf’s Landing whenever possible, and don’t forget to tell the marina personnel that you appreciate their support of the cruising community, by way of their support for the Salty Southeast Cruisers” Net!
      And, note Captain Jeff’s special weekend getaway deal for boating and yacht clubs!

      Come visit Historic Edenton’s newest full service, deep water marina and waterfront restaurant. Wharf Landing is a short 10 minute boat ride from Edenton’s downtown docks located at the foot of the Chowan River bridge. Wharf Landing Marina offers 90 deep water boat slips with shower and bath facilities. Gas and diesel is available on site. Our waterfront restaurant, Mac’s Backdoor Oyster Bar and Grill is an easy walk from marina. Located directly on the waterfront Mac’s offers exceptional views of the Albemarle Sound and Chowan River. A full menu with nightly specials and oyster bar Mac’s offers something for everyone.
      Boaters and yacht clubs schedule a weekend getaway with us. Reserve our extra large pier, including cooking equipment, tables, chairs, umbrellas for an incredible sunset social.
      Package deals are available. Call for info.
      Check us out at http://www.wharflandingmarina.com and http://www.macsbackdooroysterbar.com. We look forward to seeing you!!
      Jeff Powell
      Wharf Landing Sales
      1-252-209-7647
      1-800-783-8289
      www.wharflandingedenton.com

      Click Here To View the Cruisers’ Net’s North Carolina Marina Directory Listing For Wharf Landing Marina

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    • Little Alligator River Anchorage (Statute Mile 82)

      The entrance to Little Alligator River cuts into the western banks of its largers sister, Alligator River, north of the Alligator River Bridge. This stream can make for a good overnight anchorage, as noted below, but the entrance channel is completely unmarked, and winds a bit. If you have a well functioning GPS chartplotter aboard, it would greatly help facillitate safely plying this passage.

      I have a Pearson 424 that draws 5′ 8’³. I use this spot almost every year with no problems. I do go slow entering but find plenty of space once in.
      Bill Bartlett
      S/V Memento Mori

      Click Here For The Cruisers’ Net’s North Carolina Anchorage Directory Listing For Little Alligator River

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    • Crab Pots Along Pasquotank River/AICW and Albemarle Sound

      This is certainly not the first report we have had of crab pots and fish trips littering the waters of northern Albemarle Sound. This time, Captain Chase’s report refers to the waters of “lower Pasquotank River” which is part of the Dismal Swamp Canal Route alternate AICW passage. These pests would certainly make nighttime passage here frought with peril.

      I’ve never seen so many pots as lower Pasquatank and up the sound to Little River (early July 09). My full keel seems to miss them and sailed that whole section but do not envy those with exposed props.
      Chase

      What I wanted to point out has to do with he Pasquotank coming off the Sound. Crab Pots everywhere !!! There was no channel; it was absolutely horrible and remained that way until you reached fresh water toward Elizabeth City. Daylight travel only and extreme caution needed.
      Pat Kenefick

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    • Columbia Town Docks (Scuppernong River, off Albemarle Sound)

      On 7/23/09, as part of a `North Carolina Wish List,’ I posed the following question:

      15. Also, on the southern shores of Albemarle Sound, beautiful Scuppernong River leads upstream to Columbia, NC, where you will find free city docks. Who has visited Columbia lately? What did you find ashore? Any good places to eat?

      Responses follow:

      We stopped in Columbia and used their small town dock. Only stayed for an hour. Just long enough to walk a few blocks, stretch our legs and window shop. It was mid morning so we weren’t looking for restaurants. Smaller then Edenton, not as much to do or see but a welcome break for us. The river makes a great anchorage. A nice place to take a short break.
      Rick

      Columbia, NC we are here as I type and plan to stay another night. Great free dock with city water and great new bathhouse. Several restaurants and a helpful marine center.
      Wright and Gladys Anderson
      First & Ten

      Click Here For More Information on the Columbia Town Docks

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    • Edenton Town Docks (western Albemarle Sound)

      On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:

      13. The historic city of Edenton, NC is located near the western extreme of Albemarle Sound. Several years ago, the city marina here was vastly expanded, and a new breakwater was built. The downtown business district is within easy walking distance. Who has berthed at Edenton City Marina? Did you have a good experience here? Did you find some good places to eat ashore? Did you experience any of Edenton’s historic attractions?

      Responses follow:

      We spent 3 days in Edenton. I would have spent a month if we weren’t trying to get to the Chesapeake before the end of the fall 2008 cruising season. We visited Oriental, Washington, Bath, Edenton, Hertford and Columbia. Edenton and Bath are not to be missed. Well, none are to be missed. We intended to spend a week in the rivers and sounds west of the Outer Banks and ended up staying for 25 days. The town dock master in Edenton took us grocery shopping. Clean restrooms. No laundry but the dock master will take you to a Laundromat if you ask. Frank is a very nice man who seems to really enjoy helping people. The restaurants and downtown stores were very nice. Too numerous to name them all. Sean’s was the best restaurant. Excellent food and chatty bar patrons. Waterman’s we found mediocre. The town is beautiful. We found new and interesting stuff around every corner and we walked a lot. I think we saw every historic building and marker within walking distance of the town dock. If it weren’t for cold winters, I would move to Edenton in a heart beat.
      Rick

      We spent a few days in Edenton at the town dock. Again, information we gleaned from Skipper Bob’s book. The first 2 days at the dock are free, after that it’s a $1 a foot. Electricity $3 per night.
      When we were headed toward Edenton, after passing under the bridge, there are some electrical wires that the charts say are 80ft. of clearance. As we approached and saw the sag of the wires over the main channel, somehow they didn’t seem that high. We have about a 46ft. mast clearance. Needless to say we were a bit nervous going under. Also I should mention that squall was developing and coming our way. I was glad we plotted a waypoint on the GPS because as we got into the squall the laptop quit because the battery went dead. I wathched the wind go from about 12 knots and gust up to a little over 30 knots right on our nose. It was weird though because there wasn’t any rain with it. Our visibilty was hampered for about 15 to 20 min. so we just steered on that waypoint to the first entrance marker. The wind died down and cleared up so we could spot our entrance into Edenton. Once we got in and secure, the dockmaster a very cordial fellow offered to drive us into town for ice cream at that local Dairy Queen. We stayed for a few days there. I had to look into a mechanical problem before leaving. We also had a friend visit from home who took us grocery shopping and went to “Rocky Hock Playhouse” for a show. We kinda know the owners and they said we were the first to sail to come see one of there shows.
      The town of Edenton was splendid, we ate a Italian restaurant on main street and enjoyed walking around town the time we were there.
      Clif & Peta Lewis
      s/v Immanuel

      Click Here For More Information on the Edenton Town Docks

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    • Visiting Hertford, NC (Perquimans River, off Albemarle Sound)

      On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:

      12. Leaving the AICW, and moving west on broad Albemarle Sound, has anyone followed the beautiful Perquimans River upstream to Hertford? Did you anchor upstream of the `S’ bridge? Did you dinghy in to downtown Herford? What were your impressions of this community.

      Responses follow:

      We anchored south of the bridge at Hertford in August 2008. Used the dink to go to the boat ramp up stream of the 2nd bridge. The grocery store you mentioned in your current guide was closed and had been for some time. Shame on you. Most restaurants were closed. We met a very nice couple who moved to Hertford from somewhere in NY state. They bought an older home on the waterfront and are restoring it. They visited with us for a couple of hours on our boat. Our impression is of a very friendly town, but your guide book was out of date. We loved our walk through the waterfront neighborhood. The people we met recommended the Albemarle Plantation and Edenton. We are so glad we visited both. The waters west of the Outer Banks are a gold mine of little towns and anchorages. Please keep it a secret. Crowds will ruin it for cruisers and for the local folks.
      Rick

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    • AICW Passage Across Albemarle Sound

      On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:

      The AICW passage across Albemarle Sound is known as the single roughest section of the entire Waterway from Norfolk, VA to Key West, FL. Who has experienced a wild Albemarle crossing? Please share your experience with us, and offer any advice you may have to minimize these potentially difficult waters.

      Responses follow:

      We went from North River to Manteo for a day then from Manteo to the Alligator River the next day. The winds both days were 15 knot easterlies according to VHF – WX observations. Great sailing conditions for our Morgan 384. First day was a beat the second day was down wind. I think seas might have been 2′. Probably not desirable conditions for small and mid size power boats, but great sailing.
      Rick

      Our crossing was extremely rough. The weather report was incorrect and we thought we were going to get 1-2 ft. waves with 5-10 and got 4-5ft waves with 20+ winds. While the winds were from the west pushing the waves into us broadside, the passage was miserable. We learned what needed to be stowed below better real fast. Stuff was everywhere.
      It got better as we turned into the shifted winds tho slower……We have a 44ft blue water capable sailboat but we were getting the snot kicked out of us. For a more enjoyable trip, choose as perfect weather as you can. This shallow broad expanse can get very nasty.

      I had a rough passage going north across the Albemarle – my boat rolls badly in East / West side winds. But it isn’t all that bad – you’re only out of sight of land for a half hour or so. I broke a couple of glasses
      Best wishes
      Arnold Parkinson
      The British Club Worldwide
      www.britishclubworldwide.com

      Albemarle sound was pretty good for us. We sailed for awhile until the crab pots were just too much to deal with. The seas there were quite pleasant.
      Clif & Peta Lewis
      s/v Immanuel

      Albemarle Sound can be a be `messy’ with the open water and wind, especially during the middle of the day and early afternoon. I try to plan my crossing for the early morning (before 8am) when going south and early evening (after 5pm) when going north. At these times, the wind is not up as much and the water reasonably calm ‘“ well, less choppy. When that doesn’t work out, I just find a good cruise speed that minimizes the pounding and spray and accept that fact that I will be giving my boat a good hosing off when I stop for the night.
      Pete

      Southbound with forcast winds of 15 to 20 we left Coinjock at 0630. Was two thirds the way accross the sound before the seas built to3 to 4 feet. Adjusted power to adjust speed for best handling. Sloppy but no problem. Just a lot of work.
      Dave
      on GB 46 At Last

      The only time our cat, Jake, has ever gotten seasick was when we were crossing the Albemarle Sound against the wind. Longest 20 miles ever. I suspect it tricks a lot of ocean cruisers who can’t believe an inland body of water can get so messy so fast. If in a sailboat and you can’t motorsail upwind effectively, might as well wait a day.
      Marilyn

      Miles 51 to 82 – Albemarle Sound. With inclement weather almost daily, I found a gap via NOAA Weather and set off from Elizabeth City around 11am. It was fairly rough in Albemarle – and with any degree of side winds and waves my boat rolls badly. But by means of my patented zig zagging process, we arrived at the Alligator River marker around 6.30pm. I had no trouble going through the entry point – though I do think it essential to first start at marker QG31 – if you try to bypass it then the subsequent markers can become confusing and dangerous. I safely anchored in the Little Alligator just as the sun was setting. Phew!
      Arnold

      Hope to cross the Albemarle in late April, pending sea trial and completion of sale on a Maryland trawler. Figure to cross the Albemarle about mid-day if plans hold. Thanks cruisers for all your notes!
      Ben

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    • Cruise from Oriental to Ocracoke to Manteo, then north to the Dismal Swamp

      The question copied below originally appeared on the MTOA List-Serve, as did the answers. There is soooo much good information here, that I copied this discussion to this North Carolina section.

      We are considering this route [Oriental to Ocracoke to Manteo and then north toward The Dismal Swamp], wondered if anyone else has gone this way and would give us some guidance. We draw 4 feet and are concerned about the water in some of the shallower parts of the Sound.
      Rebecca Roman
      Andante

      Don’t worry about the water depth. It is easy to find the 6′ plus depths. The deepest point in Pamlico Sound is near Swan Quarter at about 25′. We have traversed this route three times and the only problems we encountered were 4′ following seas and entering the south channel to Roanoke Island on the wrong side of the markers.Â
      Solutions:
      1. Be sure you know which side of the channel to Roanoke Isd. has the green markers.
      2. Head out from Ocracoke when winds are E. to N.W. not when they are behind you.
      3. If caught in difficult following seas, Englehard is a good hole to duck into.Â
      4. Long Point shoal seems to be creaping further out than the older charts show. It’s marked.
      5. Take the Dismal Swamp route. The no wake speed limit is great and overnighting in the canal at the Visitors center or at the dock above Deep Creek lock is quite comfortable.
      6. Get hold of a free North Carolina Coastal Boating Guide for the overall view of the entire area.
      Enjoy this fun trip.
      Jim Bertch

      Yes, we did it in 2007. We left from Beaufort, NC, about 70 miles to Oakracoke. Don’t do this in a NE wind, gets real choppy. Bike around Oakracoke for a day and see the beach. Stay at the public dock run by the National Park Service, next to the ferry dock. It’s a 67 mile run to Manteo, again don’t do in a northerly wind. Bike to the Elizabethan gardens. Elizabeth City is 47 miles, strong SW winds make this a misserable crossing. If the weather is nice this is a neat trip.
      Chuck and Claria Gorgen

      Just came from Beaufort to Ocracoke to Manteo about a month ago–after 2 days in Ocracoke arrived Manteo 6/2–will dept around 8/1 for Baltimore via Virginia cut route as no interest in Dismal Swamp this time of year–expect high bug count exists.
      Easy run in good weather with favorable SW wind. We came up Croatan Sound side of Manteo based on very wide passage and only few miles farther than Roanoke Sound but we have talked to a number of people that ran east side with no issue as long as you plot and follow the channels which switch marker colors at the Oregan Inlet channel intersection.
      Regardless of projected wind speed/direction generally find much more favorable during daylight to about noon period +/- an hour or so.
      2-3 days is adequate time to do and see most things at Ocracoke but it is interesting stop-fair amount of history, great fishing and market, beaches.
      Manteo is a real find to spend few days to weeks here-activities on Island as well as immediate proximity(rental car–Enterprise, Killdevil Hills services) to Kitty Hawk and myriad of things to do and see on upper outterbanks, easy drive to Edinton, Elisabeth City area.
      Howard H Cole
      aboard the C Horse

      We just did this route in our Nordic Tug with a draft of 4.7.this May while doing the loop. We had no problems with water depth…just stay in the channel!
      Barbara and Jim Benjamin
      Golden Lily

      We absolutely loved the Great Dismal Swamp, recommend it all. Also stopped at NC Visitors Center, great place and good exchange of information.
      We could not figure out why it was called the Great Dismal Swamp, it was beautiful. Have recommended this route to power boat friends.
      Laurel and Murray Thompson
      Northern Magic I

      It is called the dismal swamp because in old English dismal was the word used for swamp. Redundant but an attention getter.
      John Zalusky, “NEVER FINSHED”

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    • Edenton Marina – Western Albemarle Sound

      Edenton Marina is found up Pembroke Creek, west of the city marina and downtown waterfront.

      Subject: Edenton, NC
      Cruising News: I recently pulled into Edenton Marina, 641 West Queen Street (US 17 Business), Edenton NC, and have really enjoyed my welcome to the town.
      Scotty Harrell, the owner of Edenton Marina is a pleasure to do business with and is a great host. The Marina is low key and a very nice place to tie up.
      Bayside Marina, located about one quarter mile South of Edenton Marina has been re-modeled and now boasts a very good Cafe for breakfast and lunch closing at 2PM. The Cafe is run by Bill and Denise who do fresh home made biscuits daily….you can win a husband with them in my estimation. The Bayside is limited to Bass Boats and other low clearance craft due to the 17 Highway bridge.
      Downtown I have found Sean’s to be an excellent place to dine. Excellent food at a very good price and live music most every Wednesday night. Down the street is the Waterman’s….excellent food, up-scale place….but expensive.
      There is a very nice laundromat located behind the Burger King next to the Subway shop on Highway 32 north on the edge of town….right around the corner from Kathie’s Steak House which has karaoke nights.
      The local Taxi service is very cheap but reliable.
      For American Legion members, the Edenton Post 40, is located a few miles south on Highway 17…taxi fare is about Four Dollars from the Edenton Marina.
      Ralph Chappell


      Click Here For More Information On Edenton Marina

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    • Crab Pots Along AICW/Albmarle Sound Passage

      Crab Pots has always been a problem on Albemarle Sound, and not just along the AICW passage across the sound from Alligator River to either North River (NC – VA Route) or the Pasquotank River (Dismal Swamp Route). This year, though, it looks as if they are a particularl concern.

      All, we just transited the Albemarle Sound (northbound) today. Please use caution if you any concerns re hanging a pot. The sound is solid pots from the Alligator River up to the CG station in the Pasquotank River (on the magenta line). This is the Dismal Swamp route. A companion cruiser went up the to the Virginia Cut and experienced the same. He’s done this route back and forth for 14 years and has never seen the like. I’ve never seen them as dense as we experienced, I thought I was in Maine. The zig zags added a third more time to the transit. Of course the 20-25 knots winds
      gusting to 30 out of the wsw didn’t help any. So much for the forecast of 15 out of the south with 1′ to 2′ ers. Perhaps this is a reflection of the economy and folks trying to make ends meet. Any case be careful up here!
      Joe
      “Carolyn Ann”

      The location of pots and numbers was explained to me by a local friend who is a good friend of a local commercial crabber( fishes over 400 pots). The large #1 males are coming out of the mud at the eastern end of the Albemarle Sound hence the high concentration of pots in the areas of the two ICW routes at this time of year. As the season progresses the pots will be moved further west up the sound with the crabs. The unemployment rate is 13+% hence more folks are crabbing to survive this tough economy. I wish them well, it’s a tough way to make a living.
      I plan to continue my efforts to avoid depriving them of a single pot.
      Joe
      “Carolyn Ann”

      We took the Virginia Cut route almost a month ago and noticed the same. The good news was that they seemed to all be placed on the edges of the channel making it hard not to stay in the channel.
      Gil

      I’ve never seen so many pots as lower pasquatank and up the sound to little river (early July 09). My full keel seems to miss them and sailed that whole section but do not envy those with exposed props.
      Chase

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    • Changes to Columbia, NC (Scuppernong River) Town Docks

      The charming, historic river town of Columbia, NC, sits on the banks of beautiful Scuppernong River. This stream, in turn, flows into the southern shores of Albemarle Sound, well west of the AICW’s crossing of this often rough body of water.
      Just received a note from Captain Ray Smith, which provided a link to a scanned newspaper article concerning changes to the Columbia town dock regulations. This scan is not really in a form easily displyed here on the Cruisers’ Net, so I’m going to summarize.
      Effective immediately, the first three nights at the Columbia town docks are free. Thereafter, a charge of $1.00 per foot, per night, will be levied. Free nights can only occur within the span of a single week. In other words, you can’t leave the town docks for one night, come back, and expect three more free nights.
      There is also a charge (as has been true all along) for waste pump-out!
      Hope everyone finds this helpful!


      Click Here For More Information On The Columbia Town Docks

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    • Columbia, NC (Scuppernong River. off southern Albemarle Sound)

      The Scuppernong River, on which the old, river town of Columbia is located, so impressed earlery European settlers on the North Carolina coastline, that they named it “Hearts Delight.” It remains pretty much the same today. I heartily recommend a trip off the AICW to the Scuppernong and Columbia.

      Subject: Coluimbia, NC
      Message: To those cruising Albemarle Sound, Columbia, NC on the beautiful Scuppernong River, is a great stop. The Town has recently opened a first class reatroom/shower facility right next to the free Town dock. There is a fine hardware store about a block from the dock, which is at the foot of the main street. There is also a pharmacy and small department store. The Town’s
      museum, in an old theater, is great. There is about 8 feet of water at the Town dock, and potable water is on the dock. We heartily recommend this pleasant and charming Town.
      Norman and Betsy Mason,
      MV “Peggy Sue”


      Click Here For More Information On the Columbia Town Docks

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    • Watermans Restaurant – Edenton, NC

      I agree wholeheartedly with Greg and Susan. Watermans is a very good place to satisfy a healthy appetite, and it's within easy walking distance of the Edenton City Docks!

      We are looking forward to dinner at the Waterrman restaurant in Edenton and seeing friends there.  The special appetizer at Waterman is broccoli. I have never seen a dish offered like this. It does have a sauce but just the fresh vegetable is spectacular.
      Greg and Susan Han
      Allegria — Krogen Whaleback

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    • Mackeys Marina and Crab Shack (Mackeys Creek, Off Southern Albemarle Sound)

      Mackeys Marina is located on the South shore of the Albemarle Sound opposite Edenton. We offer full boatyard services, marine store and a Crab Bar & Grille.We had an earlier posting here on the Net’s “North Carolina” section about the WONDERFUL Mackeys Crab Grill and Marina on Mackeys Creek. This twin facility lies off the southern shores of Albemarle Sound, between the Roanoke and Scuppernong Rivers, on protected Mackeys Creek (also known as Kendrick Creek). Take my word for it, the food is WONDERFUL!!!

      For an off-the-beaten-path trip up the Albemarle, try Mackey’s Marina on the south side [of Albemarle Sound] (252-793-5031) (http://www.mackeysmarina.com/) Joanne and Henry run it. They have a great bar/seafood restaurant now (local crabs) and transient slips. Deep enough water if you stay in the channel. Very protected. Good tackle shop. Fuel. Boat lift. It’s a working crabbers dock, so be prepared for working boats, not pristine cruisers. Bald eagles nest up the creek and ospreys all over – pretty spot if you like rustic.
      No connection, just a displaced local boy.
      Jim


      Click Here For More Information On Mackeys Marina and Crab Shack

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    • Why Albemarle Sound Is Considered the Roughest Inland Body of Water On the Eastern Seaboard

      I have been asked about crossing Albemarle Sound as far north as Prince Edward Island, Canada, and as far south as Key West. There is no doubt that, with its long wind fetch and relatively shallow depths, short (close together), steep chop can quickly build to a point where it jars the fillings out of your mouth. Below, you will read an account from sailing vessel Swan, which confirms this notion. Try to pick a day of light winds and fair weather to cruise the waters of Albemarle Sound. You will be ever so much happier!

      We stopped in Coinjock to take on some diesel fuel and continued on for 11 more miles to anchor in Broad Creek which is more like an open roadstead. During the night the wind came up and it didn’t get any warmer. We left and headed for Albermarle Sound. What a terrible crossing! Now, Tom was bundled up and had his foul weather gear on and he took Swan across. He said there was no reason both of us should get wet. I hardily agreed. It was blowing a sustained 20 knots and gusting to 25. The sound is relatively shallow causing a considerable chop or crashes as they felt on this crossing. Tom was more than ready to give up the helm when it was over. When the wind reaches 30 knots, the Alligator River Bridge will not open. Fortunately, the wind did not reach 30 and we were able to continue down the Alligator River to the Alligator River/Pungo River Canal to an anchorage at the south end. During all the crashing I was below reading a book, but I did take us down the canal while Tom rested below.
      Pat & Tom
      S/V Swan

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    • Edenton, NC – August 2008 Visit

      For those who have never before made the trek, Edenton lies near the westerly limits of Albemarle Sound, hard by the sound’s juncture with the Chowan River. I love a cruise to beaufitufl and historic Edenton, but all captains must be aware of the 30+ nautical mile journey necessary to access this community from the comfortable confines of the ICW

      EDENTON (8/27 – 8/30). Town Docks are wonderful. Great enclosed harbor, friendly staff, first two nights still complimentary, still $6 for 50A power. Great seafood at Waterman’s Grill and good pizza at Kristy’s Place. Bike riding and walking about were quite easy, with some very interesting history to absorb.
      Regards, Nita and Rick George aboard MV Hale Kai

      Click Here For More Information On The Edenton Town Docks

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