Manteo, NC
Shallowbag Bay, off Roanoke Sound
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The thriving village of Manteo sits perched on the western shores of Shallowbag Bay, which makes into the western reaches of Roanoke Sound a few miles south of the sound’s northern mouth. Manteo boasts excellent facilities catering specifically to transient cruisers.
Since I first began writing about these waters in the early 1980’s, the community of Manteo has undergone more changes than any other municipality in coastal North Carolina. Cruisers who have not visited this vibrant town within the last fifteen years will hardly recognize the waterfront or the downtown district.

A huge condo/retail complex now overlooks the Manteo waterfront, rubbing shoulders with a deluxe three-story inn. The city docks have been completely rebuilt and expanded. Interesting shops, restaurants, and shoreside businesses of all descriptions, housed in classical-style buildings, eagerly await visiting mariners.

A bridge stretches across Doughs Creek to a `Festival Park’ on Ice Plant Island, where the Elizabeth II calmly guards the creek’s waters. What is really so striking about all this change, however, is the careful management of the development. All of the new construction has been painstakingly designed to harmonize with the town’s unique architectural character. The result has been an -unequivocal success, with cruisers profiting -immensely.

Numbers to know in Manteo
Bayside Cab Company: (252) 480-1300
Beach Cab Company: (252) 441-2500
Manteo Cab: (252) 473-6500
R.D. Sawyer Ford (car rentals): (252) 473-2141
Chamber of Commerce: (252) 441-8144
Outer Banks Visitor’s Bureau: (252) 473-2138

Approaches

Manteo and its Shallowbag Bay entrance channel can theoretically be accessed by cruising north from Pamlico Sound, via the Old House Channel – Roanoke Sound channel route, or south from northern Roanoke Sound’s intersection with the juncture of Albemarle Sound and Croatan Sound. Of these two choices, the northerly approach is far preferable.

Caution cruisers who pay attention to navigational business will most likely find their way to Manteo from points north without mishap. The southern approach via Old House Channel and the southerly reaches of the Roanoke Sound Channel is difficult, and includes a dizzying reversal of aids to navigation just when it’s least expected.

Roanoke Sound is shallow throughout, and it offers virtually no anchorages. Fortunately, a well-marked, man-made channel allows passage to Manteo. This same cut provides access to Oregon Inlet, located at the Roanoke’s southern foot. The inlet offers thoroughly unreliable access to the open sea and has been the subject of intense local controversy for many years now.

The Roanoke Sound channel currently carries minimum depths of 7 feet, with typical soundings of 8 to 15 feet, but caution is required to keep to these depths. In places’”particularly the stretch between Shallowbag Bay and the Wanchese Harbor channel’”the sound cut is a bit winding, and there are not as many aids to navigation along the way as one might wish. Obviously, this difficult sections of the channel requires careful navigation and a steady eye on the sounder.

Manteo is served by a reliable channel that leads from the principal Roanoke Sound passage through Shallowbag Bay to the town waterfront. This cut carries minimum depths of 7 feet, with soundings of 8 to 10 feet the norm. Aids to navigation along this passage are now accurately portrayed on charts 12205 and 12204. This has not always been true in times past.

Marinas

Manteo Waterfront Marina
35 54.568 North/075 40.113 West
Manteo proudly boasts a first-rate city facility for visiting cruisers. Manteo Waterfront Marina gazes out over the western shores of Doughs Creek, northwest of unlighted daybeacon #10 (near 35 54.568 North/075 40.113 West).

Dockmaster Carl Jordan runs a tight ship at Manteo Waterfront Marina, and is also one of the most knowledgeable people you will ever encounter as to what’s happening in downtown Manteo. As long as he remains dockmaster, visiting cruisers can make use of this facility with confidence.

Manteo Waterfront Marina welcomes transient cruisers at fixed wooden piers, featuring fresh water and 30’“50 amp power hookups. Dockside soundings of 8 to 10 feet are enough for even long-legged vessels. Fair, climate-controlled showers are located in the retail’“residential complex just behind the dockage basin. This isn’t the most accessible of spots, but it’s certainly better than nothing. Here, cruisers will also discover a small laundromat, which boasts a petite paperback book and video tape exchange library.

The amenities at Manteo Waterfront Marina are complemented by colorful landscaping set against idyllic Doughs Creek. Few will count a visit here to be anything less than visually appealing. On a less happy note, all this eye candy, plus the adjacent attractions, draws large crowds during the summer months, particularly on weekends. As you might imagine, the docks are often crowded at such times.

The city of Manteo also provides free, 24- hour dockage for smaller pleasure craft. For some years now, the `Gazebo dock,’ located at the extreme southern tier of Manteo Waterfront Marina, has served this purpose.

Several years ago, the marina’s older docks, which will be passed off your port (western) side as you enter Doughs Creek, were refurbished, and opened to visiting craft. It has always appeared to us that these slips were more appropriate for vessels 34 feet and smaller.

Many years ago, the local waste treatment plant made its home on these older piers. That operation was relocated elsewhere, and the city built an impressive replica of a cottage-style lighthouse on the southern end of the `old’ piers (just where the big sewage tank used to be). This structure now serves as the headquarters for the Manteo Waterfront Marina dockmaster.

Anchorages

Unfortunately, there are no anchorages available anywhere even remotely within dinghy distance of Manteo and Doughs Creek. Those who prefer to swing on the hook are out of luck when it comes to this port of call.

Manteo Ashore

Just across Doughs Creek from the Manteo waterfront, a bridge connects the village waterfront with Roanoke Island Festival Park. This body of land was formerly known as Ice Plant Island. The park is the culmination of a $10 million project to `celebrate the history, education, and arts of the North Carolina Outer Banks.’ Festival Park (252-475-1506) features the Elizabeth II sailing vessel, a settlement site, art gallery, Roanoke Adventure Museum, museum store, film theater, NC School of the Arts Summers Arts Festival, outdoor pavilion, trails, and lawns. As described in the park’s brochure, visitors can:

`Discover the birthplace of English-speaking America.

Climb aboard the Elizabeth II, a 69-foot sailing vessel, representative of those which sailed to the New World in 1585. The Elizabeth II was painstakingly built by hand on the Manteo waterfront as part of the celebration of the 400th anniversary of Sir Walter Raleigh’s colonies. Only traditional methods and materials were used in its construction.

Experience what life was like for the colonists at the Settlement Site. Relive four hundred years of history in the 8,500-square-foot Roanoke Adventure -Museum.

Learn of the colonists’ arrival from the Native American point of view by watching the award-winning film, The Legend of Two-Path.

Daydream in The Gallery, where a new visual arts show appears monthly.

Wander the boardwalks at the water’s edge and search for wildlife and waterfowl in their natural habitat.

Delight in the crafts of local artisans, a bounty of nautical goods, and unusual gifts in the Museum Store.’

Wow, are you as tired as I am from just reading all that. Well, there’s still more. By all rights, don’t dare miss the Outer Banks History Center. Thanks to the efforts of noted area historian David Stick and other local volunteers, visitors interested in the rich heritage of the Outer Banks will find a wealth of information at this unusual facility. According to the center’s first director, `The purpose of the Outer Banks History Center is to preserve the cultural and human heritage of the North Carolina coast and to encourage the public to become more interested in it.’

Another `can’t miss’ Manteo attraction is the George Washington Creek Boathouse (at the eastern tip of Fernando Street, 252-475-1500). Here, traditional wooden boat building demonstrations are sponsored by the North Carolina Mariners Museum. The boathouse is actually the building which once served as the construction site for the Elizabeth II. It has now been converted into a traditional woodworking shop where masters and students actually build faithful replicas of North Carolina classic wooden vessels. The boat building center is within easy walking distance of Manteo Waterfront Marina. Check it out.

Downtown Manteo teems with all types of retail enterprises including ice-cream shops, gift shops, and a movie theater. Take plenty of time to stroll the downtown streets and sample all the attractions.

If you are interested in things literary, be sure to check out Manteo Booksellers (105 Sir Walter Raleigh Street, 252-473-1221), located just behind The Waterfront shopping complex. This is simply one of the nicest and best-stocked independent bookstores this writer has ever come across.

Manteo is an ideal base for exploration for those parts of the Outer Banks not readily accessible from the water. Rental cars are available from several local firms, which offer dockside pickup and delivery. These rental vehicles can be used to visit The Lost Colony outdoor drama, Nags Head, Kitty Hawk, or even the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse.

The most popular attractions of Roanoke Island’”Fort Raleigh, the Elizabethan Gardens, and The Lost Colony’”are located together 4 miles north of Manteo’s waterfront.

At Fort Raleigh and the nearby visitor center and museum, you can see the unearthed remains of the colonists’ original fort. The museum paints a fascinating portrait of those early colonial days. A movie and an occasional performance of period music add to the attraction.

The Elizabethan Gardens are an extravaganza of native and imported English plants. A walk through the green paths is definitely recommended for mariners who have seen one too many waves. The grounds are open daily from 9:00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M. year-round. In the summer, when The Lost Colony is in production, the gardens remain open until 8:00 P.M.

Undoubtedly, Roanoke Island’s greatest tourist attraction is The Lost Colony outdoor drama, written by Pulitzer Prize’“winning playwright Paul Green. The waterside theater has been playing to packed houses since 1937. The Lost Colony was the state’s first outdoor drama, and it remains one of the best. The play is a moving narrative of the fortunes of Sir Walter Raleigh’s ill-fated settlement. It is presented from June 15 to August 15 at 8:30 P.M. Advance reservations (which are recommended) can be obtained by calling 252-473-3414.

Restaurants

Captains and crews entering Doughs Creek will immediately be struck by the huge, three-story condo/retail/dining complex flanking the western banks, known as `The Waterfront.’ This unusual structure has resident parking on the ground floor, a host of retail shops and two restaurants on the middle level, and private condos on the top floor. It is a genuine pleasure to frequent this attractive complex.

Famished cruisers will want to make the acquaintance of the Waterfront Trellis Restaurant (252-473-1723). We found the bill of fare at the Trellis to be good to very good.

The Hungry Pelican (252-473-9441) is also located in The Waterfront complex. This lunch-only spot has some GREAT sandwiches and soups.

You might also want to check out the Full Moon Café (252-473-6666, 208 Queen Elizabeth Avenue), now located just across the Street from The Waterfront. This dining attraction (open for lunch and dinner) features some of the most imaginative, yet reasonably priced cuisine in Manteo. We were most impressed with the offerings during our last visit.

Nearby Tranquil House Inn (see below) offers its own in-house dining establishment, known as the 1587 Restaurant (252-473-1587). The food can only be described as `high gourmet’ and the atmosphere as most attractive. While one could never call the prices budget-minded, you get what you pay for. You might want to dig out your last clean shirt’”you know, the one buried under the forward V-berth’”for a dinner at 1587.

For lighter fare, or just something good to drink, check out the Coffeehouse on Roanoke Island (106-A Sir Walter Raleigh Street, 252-475-1295). The espresso and lattes are great, and the coffee shop offers Internet access. This is also a great spot to break your morning fast with coffee (or latte) and danish.

For a full breakfast (not to mention lunch and dinner), check out the Magnolia Grill (252-475-9877, 408 Queen Elizabeth Avenue). The morning repasts here are truly spectacular!

You can also get breakfast, as well as lunch sandwiches, at Poor Richards Sandwich Shop (252-473-3333, 303B Queen Elizabeth Avenue). This dining choice is conveniently located immediately behind Manteo Waterfront Marina.

Finally, for what has accurately been described to this writer as `good pub food,’ don’t miss the Green Dolphin Restaurant (201 Sir Walter Raleigh Street, 252-473-5911). This is perhaps the most `fun’ spot in Manteo.

Provisioning

The nearest full-size grocery store, Food-A-Rama (252-473-2924), is approximately 0.25 mile from the marina piers. The local post office resides near this grocery market. Many find it a pleasant walk to these facilities, but if you are not up to this hike, call one of the local taxi services (see above). A host of restaurants and other shoreside businesses (see below) are within a few steps of the dockage complex.

Shoreside Lodging

Separated from The Waterfront by a complex of retail shops is the three-story Tranquil House Inn (252-473-1404). Proudly overlooking the northerly stretch of Doughs Creek, this inn has been constructed to resemble the down-east architecture of an earlier day. The architects have succeeded admirably. Inside, visitors will be struck by the gracious manner of the inn’s personnel and the high-gloss wooden floors. The inn’s third-story suites boast a view that must be experienced to be understood. While the accommodations are not the most inexpensive, cruisers who want to take a break from the live-aboard life are encouraged to call ahead for reservations at this most distinctive inn.

The White Doe Inn (319 Sir Walter Raleigh Street, 800-473-6091 or 252-473-9851) is accessible via a quick walk from Manteo Waterfront Marina. The friendly innkeepers will be glad to provide complimentary transportation. The White Doe is housed in a historic 1896 structure which was expanded to its present dimensions during the early part of this century. To this writer’s eyes, it is one of the most striking Victorian homes in Manteo. A full breakfast is served (to guests only) every morning.

Local History

Since the time of early English colonization on Roanoke Island, a fascinating change in the natural character of both sounds has come about. In colonial times, what we know today as Croatan Sound was a wide marsh penetrated by a single shallow ditch. The main deep-water channel ran through Roanoke Sound from old Roanoke Inlet, which cut through the Outer Banks east of Roanoke Island.

Between 1780 and approximately 1810, the old inlet shoaled and eventually closed. Apparently, the huge drainage of the Albemarle’s nine rivers was then diverted southward through the marsh. This large volume of freshwater scoured out the one-time shallow bottom, leaving the wide and deep water that is today called Croatan Sound. Conversely, the once-deep Roanoke Sound has shoaled to 3- and 4-foot depths.

Over the years, considerable interest has been displayed in artificially reopening old Roanoke Inlet as a ready artery of commerce. One plan of note called for the building of dikes across the southern feet of Croatan and Roanoke Sounds to divert the Albemarle’s drainage through the man-made cut. This plan may have worked, but adequate funds were never appropriated, and the ambitious project was not attempted.

The history of Roanoke and Croatan Sounds is inextricably interwoven with the fabled Lost Colony of Sir Walter Raleigh. Volumes have been written, and probably will yet be written, on this mysterious chapter in American -history.

In the late sixteenth century, England began an attempt to expand its influence into the New World. Sir Walter Raleigh, trusted counselor of Queen Elizabeth I, sent out an expedition in 1584 under Philip Amadas and Arthur Barlowe. In a search for appropriate sites of future colonization, they first touched the North Carolina coast in the vicinity of Hatteras and then moved north to what may have been Roanoke Inlet. The eventual report which the two explorers presented to Raleigh spoke of a land of plenty peopled by friendly and benevolent Native Americans.

So encouraged was Sir Walter by this handsome account that he launched a colonization party of six hundred men under Sir Richard Grenville in April 1585. Landfall was made near Ocracoke Inlet, but the expedition eventually moved north to Roanoke Island. A settlement, Fort Raleigh, was soon constructed on the island’s northern tip. In late August, Grenville returned to England, leaving 107 men under the leadership of Ralph Lane. A professional soldier, Lane apparently had no qualms about stealing supplies from the nearby Native Americans. The deterioration in relations was climaxed by an English raid on the main village of the Roanoke Indians and the murder of their chief.

In June 1586, Sir Francis Drake appeared off Roanoke Island and offered his aid. Perhaps goaded by the worsening situation with the Indians, Lane decided to abandon the colony. Just a few weeks later, Grenville dropped anchor nearby with three ships loaded with supplies. Finding the colonists gone, he left fifteen men as a holding force and sailed again for England.

Following Lane’s return to England, Sir Walter Raleigh began to prepare his most ambitious effort. A large group of men, women, and children under the governorship of John White set sail for the New World in early May 1587 and arrived at Roanoke Island in July. The plan was to retrieve the fifteen men left there and move on to the southern shore of Chesapeake Bay.

Here is the first mystery of Raleigh’s colony: Why didn’t the colonists, after finding that the holding force had been slaughtered by mainland Indians, continue their voyage northward? Traditional accounts claim that the expedition’s pilot, Simon Fernandez, refused to sail to the Chesapeake. Dr. David B. Quinn, perhaps the greatest authority on the Lost Colony, insists that the majority did indeed travel overland to the southern shore of the Chesapeake, where they were later massacred by the Powhatan Indians.

For whatever reason, at least some of the colonists reoccupied the fort built by Lane. For a time, all was well. The settlement was refurbished, crops were planted, and Virginia Dare, the first English child born in America, was delivered of Eleanor Dare on August 18. It soon became apparent, however, that not enough supplies had been sent to meet the colonists’ needs before the settlement could become self-sufficient. On August 27, John White left for England to procure the needed goods.

Upon his arrival in England, White found the entire country preparing to meet the threat of the great Spanish Armada. Not even a small ship could be spared for the Roanoke colony. Finally, following Drake’s brilliant victory over the Spanish, a relief force was dispatched in late August 1590, almost two years after White’s return to England. The Roanoke Island fort was found abandoned. The only clue to the colony’s fate was the word Croatoan, the Indian name for Hatteras, inscribed on a tree. Storms prevented further search, and the small fleet returned to England, leaving behind perhaps the most enduring mystery of American history.

Many theories have been advanced to explain the disappearance of the Lost Colony. Some have claimed that hostile Indians killed the inhabitants, but no bodies were found by the relief force. The late author, Judge Charles Harry Whedbee has advanced the idea that the colonists migrated westward to the portion of the mainland -separating Croatan Sound from the Alligator River. In his fascinating tale `Beechland’ in Legends of the Outer Banks, Whedbee presents intriguing evidence to support his claim.

The most plausible theory, however, argues that the Roanoke Island colonists traveled south to modern-day Hatteras and lived there with the friendly Croatan Indians.

The Lost Colony is remembered by an outdoor drama presented nightly during the summer months on the northern tip of Roanoke Island. This long-loved play has provided training for some fine actors, including Andy Griffith. It is fitting that the bravery and courage of those first English colonists are so well remembered.

From 1984 to 1987, Roanoke Island cele-brated the 400th anniversary of the Roanoke colonies. As an integral part of this celebration, a faithful replica of the Elizabeth, one of the ships that brought the members of the Lost Colony to the New World, was built in downtown Manteo. The craft was then ensconced in an innovative theme park on Ice Plant Island, just across Doughs Creek from the Manteo waterfront. Today, cruising visitors can visit the Elizabeth II by foot from the town docks.

The Legend of Virginia Dare

Many tall tales have evolved concerning the Lost Colony. Virginia Dare is the subject of a particularly poignant story which has many variations. According to the legend, there was an attack by hostile Indians on the Roanoke colonists. Chief Manteo, returning from a fishing expedition, saw the raid in progress. By using a secret tunnel, he was able to lead all the inhabitants safely to nearby canoes. An all-night trip down the Pamlico brought the group to Manteo’s village at Hatteras. There, the colonists were accepted into the tribe as brothers and sisters.

The fair-skinned, blond Virginia Dare was from the beginning a wonder to the Indians. As she grew in stature and years, many braves paid court for her hand in marriage. The fair girl loved all the people, both Indians and white, but was not yet ready to choose a mate.

Chico, the tribal medicine man, was greatly smitten by the maiden’s charms. Though Virginia was kind to him, it was clear that Chico’s ardor was not being returned. Finally, in a fit of passion, he vowed that if she would not marry him, she would have no man. Calling upon the power of the sea nymphs, Chico lured Virginia to Roanoke Island. Stepping ashore, she assumed the form of a snow-white deer.

Soon, it was whispered that a white doe was the leader of all the deer of Roanoke Island. Wherever the remarkable creature went, all others followed. Many great hunters tried to slay the mystical creature, but no arrow seemed to find a mark. As time went by, the white doe became a legend as well as a challenge.

Finally, a great hunt was organized, and all the young braves of noble blood vowed their efforts. Many prizes and honors were to be awarded the victor. Young Wanchese, son of Chief Wanchese, who had traveled to England, had a silver-tipped arrow presented to his father by Queen Elizabeth. He believed it had magical powers and would bring him the quarry he sought.

As fate would have it, Wanchese did indeed sight the snow-white doe. Taking careful aim, he loosed his deadly missile. The silver tip succeeded where all others had failed, and the deer fell to the ground. The young brave rushed forward to claim his prize, but all joy fled as he heard the deer whisper with her last breath, faint but clear, the words `Virginia Dare.’

Fanciful it may be, but this tale has survived in one form or another since the earliest recorded history of North Carolina.