Cruising Up the Sampit River To the Georgetown Waterfront

Make Georgetown, South Carolina A Port of Call During the Fall, 2013 Cruising Season
A Salty Southeast Cruisers’ Net Editorial And Guide
by
Claiborne S. Young

By now, just about everyone has heard about the tragic fire which destroyed seven buildings in the “700 block” of downtown Georgetown, South Carolina on 9/25/13. The loss caused by the fire to this historic, waterside community is not inconsiderable, BUT there are still innumerable attractions unaffected by the conflagration, and cruisers WILL want to be sure to make Georgetown one of their ports of call during the fall, 2013 cruising season, and thereafter. This editorial’s purpose is to briefly outline some of the reasons that cruisers do NOT want to bypass Georgetown. And, over and above taking advantage of all the many attractions and services outlined below, let’s all spend some time here, and do our part to help this friendly community recover!

The Salty Southeast Cruisers’ Net will publish a separate article concerning the Georgetown Wooden Boat Show in a few days, but for now, let’s do note that THIS EVENT WILL STILL TAKE PLACE, on Saturday, October 19, 2013 from 11 AM ‘“ 6 PM. Lots more information can be obtained concerning this truly fun festival at https://woodenboatshow.com/.

Click Chartlet Above to Open A Chart View Page Centered on Georgetown

Georgetown Marinas

For a community of its size, Georgetown has what can only be described as an “embarrassment of riches” when it comes to any discussion of first class marina facilitates. All the area marinas were completely undamaged by the fire, and all are ready, willing and able to serve the needs of visiting cruisers.

All but one of Georgetown’s marinas are gathered along the shores of the Sampit River, just southeast of the principal downtown waterfront/riverwalk. It is an easy walk from any of these facilities to the restaurants and shops in the downtown district, but you may have to make your way along Front Street, rather than the Riverwalk (a boardwalk along the banks of the Sampit River), as there was some fire damage to this structure. That’s no real inconvenience, and we usually walk up Front Street anyway to get a better view of what’s happening and what has lately changed.

Harborwalk Marina

First up in any discussion of Georgetown pleasurecraft facilities is SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR, Harborwalk Marina. It is the upstreamost (northwesternmost) of the town’s marinas, and also closest to the downtown business district. Visiting cruisers will discover excellent floating and fixed wooden slips and face docks, complete with 30-50-100 amp power hookups, and fresh water connections. Some two years ago, Harborwalk Marina opened a new dockmaster’s building just behind the docks, featuring superb, climate controlled showers and a laundromat.

Captain Chris Carroll and his staff simply can’t seem to do enough for cruisers visiting their marina, and we feel confident you will thank us for sending you to Harborwalk!

For more information on Harborwalk Marina, please visit: /?p=5000

Moving downstream (southeast), Georgetown Dry Stack Marina will next be spied. This facility has changed its name (formerly Boat Shed Marina), and presumably its ownership, within the last year, and we have not had the opportunity to make an on-site inspection since the changeover. While we are told transient dockage is still available, the new moniker tends to suggest that the dry stack part of this operation is being emphasized. In the days when this facility was known as Boat Shed Marina, we were always less than impressed with the bathrooms and showers here.

For more information on Georgetown Dry Stack Marina, please visit: /?p=5001

Hazzard Marine

The southernmost/southeasternmost facility on the Georgetown/Sampit River waterfront is Hazzard Marine. Going back quite a few years ago, the only structure occupying this property was a rather scuzzy wooden dock, filled with less than bristol fashion, local fishing craft. Then, HUGE changes occurred as this facility was completely rebuilt from the ground up.

Today, cruising visitors will discover a first-class marina that all mariners may make use of with confidence. Hazzard Marine welcomes visiting transients at its concrete decked floating piers. Fresh water and 30-50 amp power connections are found at every berth. Shoreside, cruisers will discover a well founded dockmaster’s building, complete with good, air conditioned showers, a climate controlled laundromat and a small ship’s and variety store. A retail seafood shop lies just behind the marina on the other side of the parking lot.

It’s a bit more of a walk from Hazzard Marine into the downtown business district, but, hey, if you’re like me, you could use a bit more exercise!

For more information on Hazzard Marine, please visit: /?p=5002

Georgetown’s fourth marina is not found on Sampit River, but rather on the shores of the Pee Dee River, hard by the Highway 17 bridge. Georgetown Landing Marina features modern slips at both floating wooden and fixed wooden piers. Skippers can count on low-water depths of 10 feet on the well-marked approach channel from the AICW, with at least 6 to 17 feet of water dockside. Transients are accepted, and all berths feature 30-50 amp power and water connections. Good, climate-controlled shoreside showers and a fair, non air conditioned laundromat are at hand. Land’s End Restaurant (843-527-1376), as well as a Hampton Inn motel, sit just behind the marina’s docks. The inn is certainly handy for those who want to spend a night or two with dry land under their feet, but the restaurant has never been one of our personal favorites. We usually opt for walking, or taking a quick taxi ride, into the downtown business district.

It’s a 15- to 20-minute walk from Georgetown Landing Marina to the historical district and downtown section (with its wide selection of `wonderful’ restaurants’”see below), but those used to long strolls will find it child’s play. If you prefer, taxis are readily available.

For more information on Georgetown Landing Marina, please visit: /?p=5003

Cruising Up the Sampit River to Georgetown

Georgetown Dining

If it is true (and it is) that Georgetown has an “embarrassment of riches” in the way of marina facilitates, words simply fail me in describing what a wonderful selection of superb cuisine is available in this quaint community. If you can’t find a meal in Georgetown to your liking, better have your taste buds checked for malfunction! All of the restaurants briefly reviewed below REMAIN IN FULL OPERATION AND WERE UNDAMAGED BY THE FIRE, and are located in the Georgetown downtown district.

The Rice Paddy (732 Front St., 843-546-2021) is one of the most inviting places this writer has ever reviewed to unwind after a long day on the water. The main dining room looks out over Front Street and is exquisitely decorated.

And the food, well, words just can’t do the cuisine justice. It is all that any patron could ask for. If you are into lamb, the Rack of Lamb Moutarde is to die for, and (if it is available during your visit) the Scallops au Gratin are memorable. There are many other succulent choices, so bring a good appetite.

The venerable River Room Restaurant (802 Front Street, 843-527-4110) occupies a large building astride the midsection of the town waterfront, just beside Francis Marion Park. The seafood is absolutely extraordinary, whether you choose char-grilled catch of the day or a more elaborate crab casserole. Don’t miss the South Carolina shrimp-and-grits appetizer, and (if you have room left) the peanut butter pie for dessert. You simply can’t go wrong, no matter what your choice may be. To say the least, this writer gives the River Room Restaurant his highest recommendation. Tell Sid and Sally we sent you.

Famished visitors will most certainly want to make the acquaintance of Thomas’s Cafe (703 Front Street, 843-546-7776), hard by the historic Rice Museum, for breakfast or lunch. This longtime favorite serves some of the finest down-home cuisine you will ever enjoy. This writer particularly recommends the hot cakes for breakfast.

As you are wending your way around Georgetown, don’t be surprised to sniff the heavenly aroma of baking bread. Follow your nose to the charming headquarters of the Kudzu Bakery and Deli (120 King Street, 843-546-1847). Here, you will find not only fresh bread and some of the most scrumptious chocolate chip cookies imaginable, but also a full deli, fine coffees, and a good wine selection. There are also delectable sandwiches available, and, during clement weather, outside dining is in the offing at an adjacent courtyard. This is our favorite, informal dining and provisioning attraction in Georgetown. Don’t miss it!

And, as you can imagine, Georgetown has many other dining attractions. For our money, Charleston is the ONLY other South Carolina port of call that can claim as many good places to satisfy those hunger cravings as Georgetown!

Georgetown Waterfront

The Georgetown historical district sits on some 220 acres of land and includes approximately 46 historical buildings. It is bounded to the south by Sampit River, to the east by Meeting Street, to the north by U.S. 17, and to the west by Wood Street. Begin your visit with a stop at the local chamber of commerce and visitor’s center, at their new location (531 Front Street, 843-546-8436). Here, you can obtain complete information on the historical district from the helpful staff. This writer particularly recommends the pamphlet “A Guide to Historic Sites in Georgetown County, South Carolina” and “A Guide to Historic Tours in Georgetown County, South Carolina.” The latter pamphlet lists dozens of tours, ALL OF WHICH ARE STILL IN OPERATION AFTER THE FIRE. These excursions are perhaps the best method for first-time visitors to get in touch with Georgetown.

Of all the many historical homes and buildings that you might choose to view (from the street) in Georgetown, we suggest that you be sure to visit the Prince George Episcopal Church, Winyah. This venerable house of worship is located on the corner of Broad and Highmarket Streets. The congregation dates from 1721, but the building was finished in 1750. With its cracked bricks and mortar, the old church seems to exude an almost tangible atmosphere of age. Stroll through the graveyard to the left of the church. It affords an excellent view of the tower, added in 1824. Among the graveyard’s interesting headstones are many dating from the 1700s. Finally, take a moment to go inside. The doors are usually open, and respectful visitors are welcome. Standing amid the old-style box pews, one can almost picture the planters and their wives dressed in their best Sunday broadcloth and taffeta, listening soberly to a long sermon.

A Portion of the Georgetown Historic District

A historic homeplace well worth a visit is the charming Waterman-Kaminski House, located at 620 Highmarket Street. This old home, circa 1770, was the scene of two tragedies. There is the sad story of a young boy who pined away at an early age. His thin little spirit is well-known. The upstairs room opening onto the central dormer was the scene of another kind of tragedy. An old tale speaks of a young girl who was in love with a sea captain but who discovered her lover to be untrue. Heartbroken, she took her own life in the upstairs room. On summer nights, her ghost is said to appear in the dormer window, patiently watching for the return of her faithless lover’s ship.

Georgetown History

In 1526, the Spanish visionary Lucas Vasquez de Ayllon attempted to found a settlement in the Georgetown region. Little is known of this early attempt at colonization save the fact that it was a total failure. Some historians claim that only 150 of the original 500 colonists survived. Nevertheless, this effort, however futile, was one of the first European colonies in the New World.
Georgetown was laid out in 1729 by William Swinton at the request of newly appointed Royal Governor Robert Johnson. Johnson, one of South Carolina’s most able and popular colonial governors, sought to ease the hardships of the settlers living north of Santee River, whose legal business had to be prefaced by a long and exhausting trip to Charleston and whose exports had to be shipped over tortuous land routes to the capital city. Finally, in 1732, the new town was declared a port of entry, and the first Royal customs officer took up residence.
Under British rule, Georgetown quickly became a prosperous port. England placed bounties on naval stores and indigo, both readily produced in the lands about the port. Many ships sailed from the Georgetown waterfront for the mother country with valuable cargoes of lumber and dye.
Shipbuilding began in Georgetown by 1738. As the wealth of the Georgetown merchants increased with expanding trade, it became profitable for them to acquire their own ships rather than share profits with a shipping agent.
In 1735, the citizens of the Winyah district petitioned the colonial assembly to `set forth the necessity of laying buoys and erecting beacons or landmarks, and maintaining pilot boats to attend the bar of the harbor of Georgetown.’ Clearly, the town was well on its way to becoming a bustling port.

Georgetown Rice Museum

As the clouds of war spread across the colonies, voices in Georgetown cried for American rights. Georgetown planters made substantial contributions to aid Boston when its harbor was closed after the Tea Party. In December 1774, Georgetown had its own tea party. When local patriots discovered that a ship in the harbor had a cargo of taxed tea in her hold, they demanded that the ship’s master dump his cargo overboard. He soon complied with the less-than-gentle demands of the patriots. While it did not have the far-reaching implications of the more famous Boston incident, the Georgetown Tea Party certainly demonstrated the resolve of the local citizenry.
For the first four years of the Revolution, Georgetown was little touched by the war, although it was visited by one of the war’s great heroes, the Marquis de Lafayette. In 1777, the marquis made landfall at nearby North Island and traveled through Georgetown on his way to Charleston.
Georgetown was occupied by the British in July 1780. It was not long before Francis Marion, the famed `Swamp Fox’ of history and legend, began to strike at the English forces from the dark recesses of the Pee Dee swamps. Marion is credited with being the father of guerrilla warfare. He and his band of irregulars repeatedly struck the vastly superior British forces gathered around Georgetown and then melted away into the seemingly impenetrable wilderness.
In January of the same year, Marion joined forces with Lighthorse Harry Lee to briefly overrun the town. Lacking sufficient artillery, Marion was forced to withdraw, but in 1781 he drove the British from Georgetown once and for all. The liberation of the port was followed by a disastrous fire set by an English raiding party. The fire consumed more than 42 houses.
In the latter stages of the Revolution, Georgetown was most important to the American cause. With Charleston still in British hands, the port served as an invaluable supply depot.
Following the war, the region’s rice culture began its rapid rise. Free from the constraints of the British trading system and the requirements of war, the Georgetown rice planters began to carve a great empire from the muddy recesses of the tidal swamps. By 1840, the Georgetown region was said to produce 45 percent of all the rice grown in America. Fabulous fortunes were won, and the opulence of the rice culture became a standard for others to envy.
Surprisingly, Georgetown did not benefit as much from the rise of the rice culture as might be expected. Many rice planters sent their goods directly to Charleston for transshipment to other markets. The prestige of the capital port, with its long transcontinental shipping tradition, persuaded many planters to bypass Georgetown’s shipping facilities. Georgetown was never able to compete effectively with its rival to the south.
Additional problems were caused by the shallow Winyah Bay inlet bar. It carried only some 10 to 12 feet of water, a bit shallow for oceangoing ships of that era. This problem led to various schemes to build an artificial inlet across North Island and a canal connecting the bay with Santee River. All of these projects ended in failure. Georgetown had to wait until the 1880s, when the Mosquito Creek Canal successfully joined the bay to Santee River.
Georgetown was spared the worst pains of battle during the Civil War. The town was not occupied until February 1865, and little damage was done to the historical buildings.
The end of the war saw the beginning of the end of the rice culture. Georgetown suffered through the years of Reconstruction, as did most other Southern cities. Times were hard until the 20th century, but the town’s economy began to improve when the AICW was opened in the 1930s. There followed the stabilization of the Winyah Bay inlet channel and the location of modern port facilities on Sampit River.
Today, Georgetown is a small but busy port that retains, for the most part, its charm and historical character. An active chamber of commerce and local historical society work diligently to maintain the mementos of the port’s days of glory. Every visitor is indebted to their efforts. Those desiring to learn more of Georgetown’s history should acquire Ronald E. Birdwell’s excellent booklet, ‘˜’¦That We Should Have a Port.’¦’ It gives a very readable account of Georgetown’s maritime history from 1732 to 1865. The book is available at the Georgetown Rice Museum.

Conclusion

If, by now, you are beginning to get the idea that, in spite of the recent fire, Georgetown is a very special community, worthy of every cruiser’s personal attention, then you are indeed on the right track. WE CHALLENGE ALL OUR FELLOW CRUISERS TO STOP IN GEORGETOWN THIS FALL, AND CONTRIBUTE TO THIS BRAVE COMMUNITY’S RECOVERY! And, before you leave (or soon thereafter) , PLEASE share your Georgetown experiences with the Salty Southeast Cruisers’ Net. Send all your news and marina reviews to:

CruisersNet@triad.twcbc.com

Good luck and good cruising to all!!!

We’ll be cruising into Georgetown next week and taking breakfast and lunch at my favorite restaurant, the Thomas
Cafe! I hope all recover well and soon!
Stewart Force