Hertford, NC
On the Upper Perquimans River
Approximately 30 Nautical Miles off the AICW
Click Here To Open A Chart View Window, Zoomed To the Location of Hertford

Hertford Launching Ramp Park ("S" Bridge in Background)

Veteran North Carolina cruisers may be more than slightly surprised to find Hertford included in this Salty Southeast Cruisers’ Net’s North Carolina Ports of Call section. After all, this community currently lacks any marina facilities whatsoever, and your craft must be able to pass under a fixed, 33-foot bridge in order to easily visit the town and its waterfront.

So, why have we chosen to include Hertford. Well, quite simply, this old river village, which time seems to have bypassed so pleasantly, is truly one of the great cruising finds on Albemarle Sound. Mariners sighting the waterfront for the first time will be struck by the many lush green lawns stretching down to the river. This verdant grass borders a host of houses dating from antebellum and even Revolutionary War times. Such visual attractions are a good clue to the town’s genteel, laid-back character. Until now, few cruisers have taken advantage of this unique port of call.

Hertford is tucked upstream at a bend in the Perquimans River where this stream transforms itself from a wide river to a narrow track. Positioned well off the AICW, the village has remained delightfully undiscovered by cruising mariners and tourists alike. As a boy, I spent many a happy day casting for largemouth bass near the shores of Hertford on the tranquil Perquimans. It is only fair to say that I am more than a little prejudiced when discussing the town’s charm.

If you are the type of cruiser who primarily enjoys full-service marinas with nearby restaurants serving mesquite-grilled fish, then Hertford is probably not for you. But if you, like me, thrive on the peace and quiet of a lovely, close-knit river town that time seems to have forgotten, Hertford should definitely be included in your cruising itinerary (always assuming your vessel can clear that 33-foot fixed bridge).

Approaches

Hertford Historic Homeplace (Front Street)

A waterborne visit to Hertford requires a long, upstream trek on the beautiful Perquimans River. This stream breaks off from the northern shores of Albemarle Sound, west of Little River, and east of Yeopim River.

The Perquimans River is a gentle stream usually seen by only a few fishermen plying the waters in their small skiffs. It has just about everything cruisers could ask for except marina facilities. The river is deep almost to its shoreline and offers no particular navigational difficulties. It takes a heavy blow to raise a rough chop on the Perquimans. Generally, wave conditions are ideal for larger pleasure craft. The banks are lined with untouched belts of cypress and hardwood trees, broken here and there by picturesque homes.

West, northwest of Barrow Point, you must cruise under the fixed, US Highway 17 Bypass bridge, with a mere 33 feet of vertical clearance. This span will not hinder a visit by most powercraft to Hertford, but for sailors, it is a very different story indeed.

Hertford Waterfront (Upper Perquimans River)

Marinas

As alluded to above, Hertford currently lacks any sort of marina facilities. HOWEVER, in August of 2010, this writer was treated to an advanced view of a new city marina plan. Eventually the docks will hopefully front on the Perquiman’s southern banks, south of the swing bridge, and hard by the current location of the public launching ramps. This marina will most likely be built in stages as funding allows, and any prognostication of an opening date at this time would have to rank as mere speculation. However, it will be a happy day for North Carolina cruisers WHEN this city marina becomes a reality. Fortunately, in the meantime, it is possible to anchor within sight of the village waterfront and dinghy ashore (see below)

Anchorages

One Hertford anchorage is available between the 33-foot fixed, US Highway 17 Bypass span, and the low-level US Highway 17 Business swing bridge. All the other havens described below require passing through the swinging span. We will first take a look at Hertford’s outer anchorage on Raccoon Creek, followed by the more upstream havens.

Raccoon Creek Anchorage
36 11.308 North/076 27.639 West
Captains piloting cruising craft that draw 4 feet or (preferably) less might consider anchoring on the broad approach to narrow Raccoon Creek, just west and south of the 33-foot Highway 17 Bypass Bridge. Depths of 5 to 5½ feet will be discovered on the northern half of the waters between the river and the charted, low-level Raccoon Creek bridge. Closer to this span, depths are a mere 3 to 4 feet.

We have anchored near 36 11.308 North/076 27.638 West in about 5½ feet of water. Shelter is only adequate for fair weather, and this spot could be a real bear in strong northerly blows. There is enough swinging room for a 40-footer, and, as a bonus, many of the beautiful homes on the Hertford waterfront are within sight.

Hertford Backyard

On the other hand, it’s a fairly long dinghy ride to the Hertford public park and launching ramps, the best spot to tie up temporarily (see below). For my money, I prefer the upstream Hertford anchorages described below, but if the waters leading to Racoon Creek appeal to you, or you would rather not contend with an opening of the low-level swing bridge, don’t hesitate to anchor here if the weather is good, and if your craft isn’t bothered by 5 feet of water.
Click Here To View the Cruisers’ Net’s North Carolina Anchorage Directory Listing For Raccoon Creek Anchorage

Upstream Hertford Anchorages
Two excellent anchor down spots are available upstream on the Perquimans, hard by the town waterfront. First, you must negotiate a swing bridge with 7 feet of closed vertical clearance. This span opens on demand from April 1 to September 30 from 8:00 A.M. to midnight but remains closed during the early-morning hours. From October 1 through March 31, the span opens on signal from 10:00 A.M. to 10:00 P.M.

After leaving the swing bridge behind, you will spot the city’s launching ramps and a landscaped park on the southerly banks. Visiting cruisers can temporarily tie their dinghies off at the launching ramp docks. It’s then only a short walk into town (see below).

While it is possible to anchor abeam of the park and its associated launching ramps, swinging room is reduced by some shoals running in from the easterly banks. Instead, we strongly suggest that you continue tracking your way upstream to the havens described just below. It’s still only a reasonably short dinghy trip back to the launching ramps.

Hertford/Perquimans River Downstream Anchorage
36 11.758 North/076 28.154 West
Continue cruising upstream through the river’s charted hairpin turn to the north. The long, straight stretch of water which will open out before your vessel after passing through this turn is an idyllic haven with tons of elbow room. While good depths of 7 to as much as 20 feet are found along this stretch, do keep a sharp watch for snags. Most of the shores are completely undisturbed by the hand of man, though a few attractive homes gaze benignly over the narrowing river here and there. Protection should be adequate for all winds under 35 knots.

Hertford Waterfront (Upper Perquimans River)

One of our favorite spots to anchor on this section of the Perquimans will be discovered near 36 11.758 North/076 28.154 West, in about 15 to 16 feet of water. This anchorage lies near the southern one-third of the straight run north to the low-level railway bridge. There should be ample elbow room for a 45-footer.
Click Here To View the Cruisers’ Net’s North Carolina Anchorage Directory Listing For Hertford/Perquimans River Downstream Anchorage

Hertford/Perquimans River Upstream Anchorage
36 12.219 North/076 27.989 West
For even more protection, you can continue tracking your way upstream on Perquimans River to a point just short of the river’s sharp swing to the west (at the low-level railway bridge), and anchor near 36 12.219 North/076 27.989 West. Depths here run from 12 all the way up to 20 feet of water. Due to the deeper soundings, I wouldn’t want to anchor any craft larger than 40 feet on these waters.
Click Here To View the Cruisers’ Net’s North Carolina Anchorage Directory Listing For Hertford/Perquimans River Upstream Anchorage

Hertford Ashore

Wherever you choose to anchor, break out the dinghy as soon as the lines are coiled and head for the municipal launching park. Your first stop should be the local Chamber of Commerce at 118 West Market Street, (252-426-5657, http://www.visitperquimans.com), located some three blocks away from the launching ramps. Ask any local for directions. Here, you can obtain brochures and other information about the town and the surrounding county, including a wonderful “Walking Tour of Historic Hertford” pamphlet.

While visiting the Chamber, don’t miss the “Jim ‘Catfish’ Hunter Baseball Museum.” The museum is located within a small room in the chamber building. According to a city brochure:
“A tribute to Jim ‘Catfish’ Hunter, native son and Hall of Fame Baseball Player . . . It was established in 2009 on the 10th anniversary of his death . . . Hours are 9:30 am to 4:30 pm Monday through Friday and most Saturday mornings 10:00 am to noon.

Take some time to stroll around this quiet, lovely town. The downtown business district has remained virtually unchanged for the last fifty years. Don’t miss the corner Hertford Hardware Store (146 North Church Street, 252-426-5211), a town institution for many a year; in my younger days, I could often be found perusing the fishing lures at this venerable firm. Another interesting stop is Woodard’s Pharmacy (101 North Church Street, 252-426-5527), where you can still purchase an old-time ice cream cone!

Of course, a visit to Hertford wouldn’t be complete without a walk along Front Street, which fronts on the Perquimans River one block east of Church Street (U.S. 17 Business). Some of the town’s finest homes can be viewed by fortunate visitors strolling at their leisure along this tranquil lane. Use the Walking Tour pamphlet, mentioned above, to identify the historic homeplaces as you stroll along.

Hertford Sidewalk (Front Street)

Another Hertford attraction is the Newbold-White House, one of the oldest surviving homes in North Carolina. Unfortunately, this historic site is located much too far away for walking. You will need to hitch a ride with a friendly local to visit this historic structure

Restaurants

The dining situation in downtown Hertford has changed during the last several years, with the demise of long-lived Hertford Cafe and the local bakery. That doesn’t mean though there are aren’t still places to slake a healthy appetite.

If it’s breakfast time, the only real game in town is now the One Stop Grille (126 Grubb Street, 252-426-5081). This low-key establishment is also open for lunch, and some pizzas salads and sandwiches are available in the early evening.

Probably your best luncheon choice in downtown Hertford is Nickalena’s Deli (109 North Church Street, 252-426-4777). This eatery is located in the heart of downtown Hertford, almost across the street from the county courthouse. During a visit in August of 2010, we were impressed by the number of local patrons drawn by this restaurant. The bill of fare features salads, sandwiches, subs, wraps, sides and deserts.

Another dining possibility is Carriage House Tea Cafe’ and Gift Shop (108 Dobbs Street, 252-426-8327). This restaurant is open for breakfast and lunch, Mondays and Wednesday through Friday, plus Saturdays 10:00 am to 3:00pm and Sundays from 9:30 am to 2:30 pm. Fresh sandwiches, muffins, bagels, teas and soups are featured.

Provisioning

The only real provisioning to be found in downtown Hertford is at One Stop Grille (126 Grubb Street, 252-426-5081). We met this same establishment in our discussion of Hertford dining choices above. One Stop is what might be accurately described as an “enhanced convenience store.” There’s plenty in the way of drinks and snacks, but don’t look for fresh produce or meats.

Shoreside Lodging

Hertford Historic Homeplace (Front Street)

Hertford boasts three good shoreside lodging possibilities, all of which will glad pick and and return cruisers to the city launching ramp park. The Beechtree Inn (252-426-7815) is a rustic establishment with three separate guest cottages. It is set on a secluded, wooded lot with fourteen pre’“Civil War buildings, which have been moved here for protection and restoration. A full country breakfast is served to inn guests only.

1812 on the Perquimans, (252-426-1812) resides on the northern side of Perquimans River, set amidst one of the largest plantations in the area. If you stay here, be sure to take the long walk across the field on the far side of the street, to the Perquimans River. Here you will find a dock deep within a surrounding cypress swamp.

Springfield Bed & Breakfast (252-426-8471) flanks US Highway 17, and set among lush farmlands. The peaceful atmosphere here must be savored like a fine wine!

Hertford History

In 1661, George Durant purchased land from Chief Kilcacanin of the Yeopim Indians. This acquisition, which later became Perquimans County, was the first deed of its type in North Carolina. Settlement of the region went forward but was impeded by a severe drought in 1667 and a hurricane in 1668. By 1696, some seventy families were settled around the Perquimans River. In 1732, a courthouse was built near Phelps Point, and a town began to grow around it. Incorporated as Hertford in 1758, the town became and remains the seat of Perquimans County.

The Perquimans district ardently supported the patriot cause during the Revolutionary War. One of its citizens, General William Skinner, was the hero of the Battle of Great Bridge in Virginia. Hertford was shelled during the Civil War, but the bombardment resulted in only one casualty.

Progress after the war was impeded by the region’s lack of overland transportation. Until 1917, it was necessary to travel by water to Norfolk, Virginia, to reach Raleigh. Finally, in 1925, the completion of U.S. 17 lifted Perquimans County out of its long era of -isolation.

Hertford Historic Homeplace (Front Street)

Long before U.S. 17 became a reality, however, the citizens of Hertford found a way to bridge the Perquimans River near their settlement. In 1780, they engaged the services of a Mr. Perry, who used empty whiskey barrels to construct a pontoon bridge between Phelps and Newby Points. A detachable section could be floated aside to allow passage of river craft. During the Civil War, the Hertford Confederates surprised a detachment of Yankee soldiers attempting to use the pontoon bridge. The crafty citizens removed the pegs from the detachable span’s hinges. When the Union troops tried to march into town, they marched instead into the river.

This interesting structure survived until 1885, when it was replaced by a wood-and-steel bridge. The popular ballad `Carolina Moon’ is said to have been composed while the songwriter watched the Perquimans by moonlight from the 1885 bridge. Proof of this contention remains elusive, but it is easy to imagine the artist’s fascination as he watched the moon play upon the beautiful stream.

In 1928, the state replaced the 1885 structure with a modern concrete-and-steel bridge. Even this span is unique. For reasons that remain obscure, the bridge forms an S pattern. It is thought that the Perquimans Bridge is the largest S-type bridge in the world.