Skipper Dammeyer offers good advice concerning air clearance on fixed bridges: check local knowledge. Several factors – tide, wind, excessive rainfall – can affect clearance above the water surface and height boards may not always be accurate. The F. J. Torras Causeway, Mackay River Bridge crosses the ICW at Statute Mile 674, south of unlighted daybeacon #242.
Larry At MM 674.5 we arrived at the Torras Causeway Bridge about an hour before High Tide to find the South Bound bridge board missing. A trawler reported that the N.B. Bridge Board read only 63′ so we circled with our 63′ 10″ air draft and went sight seeing for three hours. When we finally went through the N.B. Board read 65′. The dock crew at Morningstar said there had been some confusion over clearance as one of the boards had slipped, but we are not clear as to which one. Tall masts are advised to check local knowledge if approaching at or near high tide. We’ve waited for tide to fall at this bridge on previous trips.
Our recommendation to Skipper Harllee is to call Southport Marina, A SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR, located just west of the Cape Fear River along the northern banks of the Waterway hard by flashing daybeacon #2A. Their daily Weather and Navigation Briefings (see /?p=144528) more than qualify them to provide needed advice and up-to-date information on the Cape Fear river. However, I’m sure Skipper Harllee would welcome your advice as well!
My husband and I have cruised on the Cape Fear River several times from Southport, NC to the Wilmington area in our 27 foot Ranger Tug (single screw) with no problems. But yesterday (Thursday, October 30) we faced confused seas and had difficulty with the run from Snows Cut south to Southport. The wind was only around 12 to 13 knots, but it was from an unusual direction, from the northwest. We tried to time our run for slack current, but obviously we miss calculated and had a following wind and we were going into the current. Very uncomfortable, rough chop and we were glad we finally made it to Southport. Since we plan more trips on the Cape Fear River, does anyone have any advice regarding how to time our trip to match the current and the wind? How do we get accurate information on the Cape Fear current? Thanks so much! Jo Ann
Joann – Getting the correct tidal information is one of the keys for sure. I am not sure what the best tide station is for that area, but Southport, NC should be okay. We have experienced your similar conditions and it seems that tides in the their final stages produce much stronger flows than at the beginning. So the tide could have still be in its final stage of flood and in conflict with the wind and that would be the strongest tidal flow, hence the aggressive chop. We too are retired and having no schedule is in our favor for sure. Try mid-tidal ranges if time allows for your cruise or at least when the winds are calmer and maybe even from a direction that gives you some “leeward” protection. I hope your husband recovers and continues to enjoy boating, as it is and can be such fun for all. Thanks again for using the Salty Southeast Cruisers’ Net JoAnn. Do stay in touch. Winston
Winston, thanks for your advice. Since we are retired we have some flexibility on timing. So yesterday with the wind from the north we hit Snows Cut around high tide, thinking that with a dropping tide we would be better off going down the Cape Fear. But it did not work. At what tide level would have it been better for us? And what tide chart is best to use for the Cape Fear anyway when you first come out of Snows Cut? Sorry to be so dense, but it was such an unpleasant experience we would rather avoid it if we can (or I am afraid that our tendancy will be to just use the boat as a condo and never go out, my husband actually hurt his neck and shoulder on the ride down the river so it will be a while before we go out anyway) . Thanks again, Jo Ann
JoAnn – we used to keep our boat just north of Wrightsville. Have had all kinds of experiences along the course you described. The current is always flowing out, the tides will have an impact to reduce flow or cause it to be static. Winds play a big role here if tides flow and winds are in conflict…this can cause nasty chop, especially true at the beginning of flood or near end of outgoing if winds are contradictory to flow. And there seems to always be a “first time” for most any and every thing when on the water. Glad you are safe. The vessels can usually take much more than those of us on board. Best to you and thanks for using SSECN. Winston Fowler-Sent from my iPad
Having done the Cape Fear River numerous times in atrocious conditions the obvious answer is to not be out there when there is a lot of wind against the current. Most slower vessels prefer to go with a favorable current, but it is worth it to wait at Carolina Beach or Southport if the wind is going to be up and against your favorable current. The good news is that in the fall when headed south the worst winds tend to be from the north so should be behind you with a favorable current.
The AICW follows the short and narrow, man-made canal known as Hell Gate between the Vernon and Ogeechee Rivers. These waters have been an “AICW Problem Stretch” for years and mid to high tide is recommended for vessels drawing 5ft or more.
SSECN is glad to hear that Skipper Dammeyer and our friends, the Salemnos, stopped at Sunbury Crab Company Marina, A SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR! which lies along the western shores of the Medway River, on the charted Sunbury Channel, north of Dickinson Creek
Larry, We passed through Hell Gate this morning about 2 1/2 hours after low. Favoring green 89 by about a boat length we saw 6 1/2 to 7′ for just a few yards and then the water deepened again. On the way in I tried to cut behind the shoal at the Northern approach as marked on the chart, but the water went to 8′ and less, so I turned around, went back to the river and made the turn just before the north green in plenty of water. This seemed to be consistent with what boats in front of me were reporting. Rick PS we just tied up with Carmen and Cathy at Sunbury Crab.
Sanctuary and crew came through Hell Gate yesterday, 11/6/2014, at 06h30. The chart plotter almanac said we were at +8.4 ft on a +9.1 ft tide. The tidal range was a celestial range around the full moon. On both sides of G”89” in the cut, we saw depths of 11.4 ft. At MLLW, that would be 3.0 ft. Yesterday with negative spring tide, it would have been only 2 ft. We did not do the Little Mud complex as we would have arrived there at low tide. Instead, we went out at St. Catherine’s Sound and came back in at St. Simons Sound. To avoid the shoaling on the shelf, we ran about 6 miles offshore in acceptable seas of 2’ – 3’. It was a good alternative of 64 StM, and put us in Brunswick at 15h30. Fuel at Ocean Petroleum is $3.04 per gallon, including tax. Peg and Jim Healy aboard Sanctuary, southbound at Brunswick, GA http://gilwellbear.wordpress.com Monk 36 Hull #132
One of the oldest and most beautifully located marinas in NC, River Forest Manor and Marina, under new ownership, will begin hotel and dock renovations in December after the Fall migration has ended. Until then, they do have fuel and transient slips. River Forest Marina is located on the northeastern shores of Pantego Creek, just northwest of the creek’s breakwater enclosed entrance.
River Forest Marina has been sold and is now River Forest Manor and Marina, #252-943-0030. They do sell fuel but are renovating the marina and hotel. They will start construction on the docks after the traffic goes through about December 15th. Their email is unc1975@gmail.com. River Forest Marina is still operating but only for boat services [including transient slips] and repairs. Kaye Adams
And Dockmaster Henry Boyd provided more details:
Dear Kaye, Thanks for your phone call and email. On 10/23/2014, the historic River Forest Manor and Marina was purchased by a 10 member LLC with the purpose of renovating the existing facilities. Our first priority is the Marina building and docks. Construction began on 10/27/2014. We are upgrading the Marina dock house with a new exterior, including new windows and doors, new decking, renovating the bathrooms /showers, marina office, and adding laundry equipment. The main dock is operational, but upgrades will be added in the next several weeks. Both diesel fuel and gas are available now together with Wi-Fi and city water. Our gas is non-ethanol 89 octane. 30/50/ and 100 amp electrical service are available. Pump out should be operational by next week. Our goal is to provide excellent service and value for our guests. The 10 LLC members have a connection to Belhaven either by living here or are from here.Thus our reputation is on the line. Our new telephone number is 252-943-0030 and my cell is 252-943-1937. Call ahead for fuel pricing, We want to be competitive. Current dockage is $1.50 a foot. Long term dockage will be available soon, once renovations are complete to our second dock. As a further note, Belhaven is the birthplace of the Intercoastal waterway. (see your article: /belhaven ). This past September was the 86th anniversary. Belhaven has had an annual celebration beginning last year with plans to commemorate annually. Thanks, Henry Boyd Dockmaster/member
Jekyll Harbor Marina, A SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR!, lies along the easterly banks of the AICW’s passage through Jekyll Creek, immediately south of the 65-foot fixed bridge. All Waterway cruisers, north or southbound, will pass Jekyll Harbor Marina. Our thanks to Sonny Reeves for bringing us this good news from Jekyll Harbor Marina. Those golf carts will be perfect for Jekyll touring!
Hi Capt Larry, The dockmaster Scott Todd @ Jekyll Harbor Marina has worked hard with the owners to get two golf carts for boaters to use on the island. These are excellent vehicles to visit the Historic district and the shopping center on the island. In addition a new set of washer and dryers are now in our renovated laundry room. The Showers have been tiled and updated. Very nice and just in time for South bound cruisers to stop over on Georgia’s Jekyll Island. With 30 miles of bike trails you can ride one of the marina’s free and new bicycles to the beach, the forest or river view trails in safety off the roads.Enjoy! Sonny 1 Harbor Rd Jekyll Island Georgia 31527
I highly recommend at stopover at Jekyll Harbor Marina for cruisers traveling the ICW. Located directly on the ICW, the marina is a very convenient stopover for the weary traveler looking for a couple days of R&R.
If you haven’t visited Jekyll Island before you’ve missed a real treat. The beaches and Historical District are less than a mile away, easily within walking and biking distance. Or why not try one of the marina’s new complementary golf carts and explore the island. Jekyll Island is an unique coastal treasure. In Georgia it’s called the “nearest faraway place.”
The onsite restaurant “684” (formerly SeaJay’s) is under new ownership with a new chef. Two weeks ago I was traveling up the ICW from Fernandina Beach to St. Simon’s Island with another boat. We contacted Meagan at Jekyll Harbor Marina a couple days ahead to make sure it was OK for us to tie up at the transient dock over lunch hour. She could not have been more accommodating and the restaurant easily handled our large group. BTW, the food at “684” is excellent!
This reader is seeking advice about navigation Frying Pan Shoals from east to west at the large shoal off the tip of Cape Fear. If you have experience in those waters, let us hear from you!
Hi! I have a quick question that I am hoping that you can answer. We currently dock a 20 foot boat in Wrightsville Beach. We are looking to move to an older 45-50 foot Viking by July of 2015. At that time we may move to Southport area as our hailing port. I am originally form up north and still learning the NC waters. Is it possible to navigate across the FP shoals at the 3 mile line or do you need to be closer to the FP Shoals Slue or the territorial line. Looking at a chart is appears that the 3 mile line depth is a bit variable. Thank you in advance for your time reviewing this note. Regards, Tom Thomas N. Denny
I just went through the Slue the other day and it is an easy navigational route. I went through with an 85 foot cruiser. I like to stay outside if possible, love to see the sunrise and set while at sea. All of the marine life too. Do not like the ditch unless it is rough out.
ICW is a very nice run from Wrightsville to Carolina Beach to the Cape Fear River then Southport. 24 miles I think. A lot shorter and both the Waterway and River are beautiful thru this stretch. Only go outside to sail with prevailing wind.
We have had lots of discussion (/?p=141157) on bypassing Ashepoo-Coosaw Cutoff by heading southeast to Combahee Bank then northwest to return to the Waterway south of the Cutoff. Now Skipper Dammeyer offers another alternative by heading almost due west from Combahee Bank into Morgan River to SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR, Dataw Island Marina. Slipper Dammeyer and I had a chance to compare navigation notes this week just before he headed south from Charleston. If Dataw Island Marina is in your float plan, this is a logical choice of routes.
Larry, Thanks for the encouragement to take the alternative to Ashepoo Coosaw cut. We arrived at Fenwick [Cut] about 2:30 or a couple of hours before low. We motored out and down the Ashepoo in calm seaway, went below the Combahee Bank and across St Helena Sound all the way to green 11 below pelican bank and found 25-30 ft of water to turn up Morgan Creek to Dataw Marina. Saving us from having to motor up the ICW and then crossing at Parrot Creek. Thanks again, Rick Dammeyer S/V Promise, Catalina 445, 5ft draft
This article from The Associate Press is for our scuba diving friends and those of us who still insist on diving under to clean the props!
NOAA officials praise shark repellent developed at Florida Keys Community College THE ASSOCIATED PRESS First Posted: October 25, 2014 – 3:01 am KEY WEST, Florida ‘” Federal officials are praising a shark repellent developed at the Florida Keys Community College. The project was funded by a National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration grant. In a recent report to Congress, NOAA officials highlighted the repellent among efforts in coastal communities to reduce the numbers of sharks caught in commercial seafood harvests.
Our thanks to friends Chuck and Susan for sending this article by Natario McKensie in Tribune242. From the Bahamas Trust Chairman’s remarks, you can see that he doesn’t think much of transients from the US.
Could we soon be paying to anchor in the Bahamas? It’s not as far fetched as you might think. Chuck Baier and Susan Landry
Trust Chief: Anchorage Fees Must Be Nationwide
By NATARIO McKENZIE Tribune Business Reporter
The Bahamas National Trust’s (BNT) chairman has called for anchorage fees to be imposed in mooring spots throughout the Bahamas.
Addressing the ninth annual Exuma Business Outlook conference, Eric Carey noted that while the BNT had implemented anchorage fees at the Exuma Land & Sea Park to cover its annual operating expenses and upgrade infrastructure, the initiative was one he believed should be implemented in other areas.
`We need to think about doing these sorts of initiatives in other areas like Elizabeth Harbour off of Black Point, Staniel Cay and Nassau Harbour,’ he said.
`They come down there they anchor and they pay absolutely nothing and they come fully stocked. Half of the time they don’t even spend $5 in the Bahamas and what do they eat? Our fish,’ said Mr Carey.
We would like to send out a big thank you to everyone that has rallied and responded to our initial posting of this article. It shows that the boating community can come together and make a difference. We just received this reply…..” Executive Director of the Bahamas National Trust (BNT), Eric Carey, extended his sincere apologies to all boaters that visit The Bahamas year after year today.
During the Exuma Business Outlook forum Director Carey answered a question from the floor that painted annual boaters in a less than flattering light. He and the BNT Executive team acknowledge that comments such as those should not have been made considering that the yachting; sailing and small craft boaters who visit the islands have a significant impact and role in the Bahamian economy, tourism and environmental longevity.
Since its inception in 1958 the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park has been a premier anchoring location for boaters who visit The Bahamas. Recently the BNT introduced anchorage fees due to the increased annual operational cost of repairs and upkeep of the Bahamas’ oldest National park. In Mr. Carey’s passion to defend his organization’s need to increase income to support the Park’s operations, he suggested that the residents of Elizabeth Harbour install moorings to help with their efforts to clean up and restore their harbor. Some residents made comments to the effect that some boaters were not willing to pay for moorings. Carey unfortunately went on record to support the comments and agreed that some of these boaters do not contribute significantly to the economy.
“The comments which I made at the Exuma Business Outlook Conference are not the views of the Trust,” noted Carey. “We welcome all visitors and most importantly boaters in The Bahamas – not only to the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park but throughout The Bahamas.”
Carey continued “international boaters are significant contributors to our economy and specifically to the more boutique islands which are not visited my mainstream tourists. In addition hundreds are annual supporters of the Trust through membership, valued Support Fleet members, the payment of mooring fees or by donating much needed personal resources to the protection of the marine environment. I offer my heartfelt apologies and hope that all boaters will continue to visit The Bahamas.”
What do they expect when a gallon of milk costs $9, or they charge for water. they need to work on bringing costs of basics down, then people would provision there. Otherwise I think we do in fact spend money, just not at the grocery store. Scoobert Diver
Over the last three years, Ladys Island Marina has been undergoing big improvements in the marina portion of this property under the direction of owner, Kelly Ryan, and these improvements have been confirmed by the recent positive comments SSECN has received. Ladys Island Marina is located in Factory Creek just east of Ladys Island Bridge.
Thanx, Larry, that spot [Jekyll Creek] has been troublesome forever. I’m glad you found our observations useful; we’ve gotten so much assistance from this site over the years that its wonderful to be in a position to pay it back, and keep Claiborne’s vision alive. BTW, can’t say enough good things about Lady’s Island marina (SM536). Quiet, well-maintained, many services within easy walking distance (groceries, hardware store, liquor store, nice bakery and many restaurants, etc). Very accomodating management/dockmaster Steve is going cruising, new dockmaster TJ started on Monday and he’s clearly committed to carrying on the cruiser-friendly tradition. Loaner car and/or bikes. A ***woodshop*** for doing boat projects!!! Longish walk or short bike ride across the swing bridge to historic downtown. We’re waiting on a part for our autopilot, expected in next Friday. We’ll be staying another week, then if weather permits we’ll be doing a single overnight and bypassing Georgia.
Claiborne S. Young’s classic dvd series, “Cruising Carolina”, is available for purchase at UNC-TV. Enter Cruising Carolina in their Search box, then select Cruising Carolina DVDs. At Click Here to Order, an order form for the particular region will come up from Blue Water Media in Danbury, NC. Not all regions are available, but the ones remaining are $19.95 each.
We are very grateful to the Lunsfords for sharing their observations of the North Carolina Waterway. Remember that on our Homepage you can enter each statute mile mentioned into the ST.M./LAT-LON WIDGET and bring up a chart of the exact area discussed below. Several of the spots mentioned have been designated Problem Stretches on Cruisers’Net and their sites are listed below.
Delighted to be able to help, after all the assistance we’ve gotten from you over the years. This is a little bit older, we posted it on Facebook on Oct 8, having transited North Carolina during the previous 2 weeks. We’re hanging out in Beaufort for a couple of weeks for insurance restrictions, after 1 November we’ll head to Florida. If weather permits we’ll go outside overnight, otherwise, we’ll update you on conditions in Georgia. Dan and Jaye Lunsford
We’ve just done the ICW through North Carolina from Beaufort/Morehead City on down toward Myrtle Beach, SC. We have a few passage notes for those following. Mostly it was a very easy trip with plenty of water, most of the traditional trouble inlets have been recently dredged. Mile 210-ish, daymarks 9-11, stay to the red side of the channel if it gets shoal. Mile 227, Bogue Inlet – this traditional trouble spot was dredged Feb 2014, no issues. Mile 237, Brown’s Inlet – There are 3 marks here that look like they are in a straight line, Red 60, Green 61A and Green 63. The marks are NOT off-station, you will sweep a wide lazy “S” turn around them. Stay close to R60 (20 feet off) then stay to the red side, or no further than mid-channel, from G61A to G63.
Mile 246, New River Inlet – Favor the red side between Red 72A and Red 72B. Get close to R72B before you turn (I call it “squaring the corner”) and you will find 9 feet MLLW. Mile 270, marker 99A – it’s way over to the side of the channel, favor the red side over near the boat dock.
(New Topsail Inlet/AICW, see /?p=144470 and /?p=144976)
Mile 293, Carolina Beach Inlet – this traditional trouble spot was recently dredged, no issues. Mile 321, Lockwood’s Folly Inlet – recently dredged Feb 2014, and well-marked with cans that may not be on your chart. Make sure to follow the ICW marks (with the gold squares or triangles) and not the inlet markers, there is plenty of water. Mile 330, Shallotte Inlet – this traditional trouble spot is recently dredged March 2014, no issues, we saw nothing less than 9.5 feet MLLW.
Although seldom mentioned, Southport, NC does have a free (48 hours) city dock as described below. Southport is also home to SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR, Southport Marina, located just west of the Cape Fear River along the northern banks of the Waterway hard by flashing daybeacon #2A. This reminder comes to us from Hank Pomeranz of Carolina Yacht Care.
`The City of Southport, NC, always a transient friendly destination, now allows transient boaters to use the free city dock for 48 hours instead of 24 hours. Since most transients arrive late in the day and generally leave in the morning hours, the old 24 hour policy did not allow time for provisioning or visiting the city. Visitors should check in with the police station when they arrive. The phone number is: 910-457-7913. As you enter the Yacht Basin, the City Dock will be to port (opposite the restaurants). It is the T-Head on the outermost (closest to the ICW) dock.’ Thanks Hank Pomeranz
And we have this description of the free dock from our good friends, Chuck Baier and Susan Landry in a 2013 review of Southport:
At the end of a long dock at the west end of the basin is the town dock where you can tie up for free for 48 hours. There is water on the dock and a 20-amp power outlet if you can make it work for the boat. Depths at the town dock can be 4 feet at low tide and with the tidal range, climbing onto the dock at low tide can be a challenge. Boaters do offer to allow others to raft up at the dock and it is much deeper even just a boat width off.
This report comes to us from Dan and Jaye Lunsford’s log of their voyage through South Carolina, see /?p=145002. And, as reported by our good friends Mark and Diana Doyle: For those transiting South Carolina, Ashepoo Coosaw Cutoff continues to be a problem area and carries LESS THAN 5 FEET MLLW. For an alternative to Ashepoo-Coosaw Cutoff, see /?p=134342
SM 517 Ashepoo-Coosaw Cutoff: Stay at least a couple of boat lengths off G177 at the entry (“square the corner”) for 10′ MLLW. At the exit, R184 was reported destroyed; a new temporary drop aid (floating can) was placed there on Friday — we met the Coast Guard small boat that was doing the work on their way back. Slightly favor that NW side between R184 and G185, but time the tides if necessary, we saw 5′ MLLW here briefly. Dan Jaye Lunsford
This report comes to us from Dan and Jaye Lunsford’s log of their voyage through South Carolina, see /?p=145002. The Salty Southeast Cruisers’ Net has posted reports of shoaling in this Problem Stretch (which the ACOE terms as “behind Breach Inlet”) for months now. And, as the Lunsfords confirm, cruisers piloting craft of almost any draft MUST time their passage of these waters for mid to high tide!
SM 460 shoals before Ben Sawyer bridge: 4′ MLLW, so its really important to time the tides here. Favor the north side of the channel from before G117A to G119. Dan and Jaye Lunsford
Many thanks to Skippers Lunsford for providing very recent reports from six shoaling areas between Myrtle Beach and Beaufort. Three of these areas have been designated SSECN Problem Stretches and their descriptions are listed below. For a recent report on McClellanville, see /?p=144354 For a 2013 ACOE survey of area north of Ben Sawyer Bridge, see /?p=125717 For a 12/2013 report on Ashepoo-Coosaw Cutoff, see /?p=129101 For an alternative to Ashepoo-Coosaw Cutoff, see /?p=134342
Hi there. We just came through this area in the last week, a bit ahead of the pack, so thought we’d pass on what we found at the traditional trouble spots to help those who come behind us (a copy of what we posted on a couple of Facebook groups). Thanx for all you do. Dan and Jaye Lunsford
SM 349-352 The Rockpile: This stretch has numerous rock ledges on the sides of the channel so its important to stay in the middle. Not quite as scary as it sounds, but its the first time on the journey that the ICW is anything but mud if you do make a mistake. The ledges are very easy to see at low tide, and there is plenty of water depth even at the lowest tide. On weekends it can be crowded with power boats who may want to pass you if you are a slower sailboat and there really isn’t a lot of room to move over.
SM 430-435 McClellanville: Time the tides here if at all possible. If you’re really motivated you can tiptoe your way through; we saw 6′ MLLW, but so much simpler to just give it a couple of hours.
SM 460 shoals before Ben Sawyer bridge: 4′ MLLW, so its really important to time the tides here. Favor the north side of the channel from before G117A to G119.
SM 471 Wappoo Creek Bridge: This operator is REALLY a stickler for time; bridge is closed during rush hour opens every 1/2 hour during the middle of the day (check the complex operating schedule) but if you aren’t waiting at the bridge before the opening, the operator will not hold even a moment but will make you wait for the next one.
SM 501-504 Watts Cut: Although not listed as a traditional trouble spot, there are numerous shoals to 6′ MLLW along this reach. In a slow sailboat it’s hard to time the tides to have water here, and also water at the next trouble spot.
SM 517 Ashepoo-Coosaw Cutoff: Stay at least a couple of boat lengths off G177 at the entry (“square the corner”) for 10′ MLLW. At the exit, R184 was reported destroyed; a new temporary drop aid (floating can) was placed there on Friday — we met the Coast Guard small boat that was doing the work on their way back. Slightly favor that NW side between R184 and G185, but time the tides if necessary, we saw 5′ MLLW here briefly.
In honor of Halloween, we thought that this ghost story from Young’s Yarns would be well worth featuring here at the end of October. If you have not found them already, there are more Young’s Yarns to be found on our Homepage.
The Ghost in the Attic by Claiborne S. Young In my 26 years as a cruising guide author, I’ve had more than my share of strange happenings. None, however, have been stranger than what my first-mate, first-mate and I experienced way back in 1984 while researching Georgetown, South Carolina. Little did I know that this eerie incident would come back to `haunt’ me years later.
It was early spring 1984 and my first book, `Cruising Guide to Coastal North Carolina’ had just been released the preceding year. Emboldened by that volume’s success, I was hard at work on a guide to the South Carolina coastline.
As I do at the beginning of every project which encompasses a coastline unfamiliar to me, I had been reading all I could about the fascinating South Carolina Low Country and its myriad and often confusing waters. Good fortune led me to a wonderful book named `Ghosts from the Coast,’ by J. Stevenson Bolick. This volume contains many deeply absorbing ghost stores centered on historic homes in Georgetown and along the nearby Waccamaw River. By the way, if you are at all interested in South Carolina coastal folklore, spare no efforts to obtain this book!
I was particularly struck by one poignant and tragic story concerning a young girl who had lived in the most beautiful home on the Georgetown waterfront. She had fallen in love with the first officer of a ship which often docked in Georgetown, but her parents objected to the match. Being resourceful, the young girl soon hit on the plan. Whenever her lover’s ship was in port, and her parents had retired for the evening, she would place a lamp in the upstairs dormer window. The couple would then meet in the garden for a few tender but stolen moments.
Well, as these stories often unfold, the ship’s officer was lost at sea. The young girl was devastated, but continued to place a lamp in the upstairs dormer window every night in remembrance of her lost love. Eventually, following her parent’s death, she became a recluse, with her only companions being several beloved dogs. One day, alerted by the barking dogs, neighbors found her body, dead of a broken heart at last.
And, as you’ve probably guessed by now, it was whispered along the Georgetown waterfront that a light was still to be seen in the upstairs dormer window. The house was finally abandoned, and remained vacant for many years, but there were still those who affirmed the faithful light was to be seen from time to time.
One fine spring morning in 1984, my first-rate, first-mate and I came tooling into Georgetown. We had no sooner coiled our lines at Boat Shed Marina, than the cameras were broken out and we began avidly photographing the many beautiful homeplaces in the Georgetown historic district. I was particularly keen on getting photos of the house with the `ghost in the attic.’ The old homeplace’s position had been pretty well described in `Ghosts from the Coast,’ and we were soon successful in discovering the correct location. What we found was a beautifully restored historic home which no longer bore any scars of its long time abandonment.
Not wanting to trespass, we walked out on a commercial fishing vessel dock to photograph the beautiful house from the water side. Before we had snapped a half dozen pics, a very impressive grandmotherly type strode out into the front yard, and inquired politely but forcefully as to why we were taking pictures of her house. I made the mistake of telling the lady in question that I was writing a book about the South Carolina Low Country.
For the next hour and a half, we were treated to a nail by nail, board by board, discussion of how her husband had restored the family home. Karen and I were itching to be continue our photographic tour of Georgetown, but not wanting to be impolite, we heard the discussion through to its lengthy end.
Nowhere in this conversation was there any mention of the ghost in the attic. Finally, when all had pretty much wound down, I plucked up my courage and asked the home’s mistress if, `ha, ha’ she had ever seen the ghost. That 90 year old matron looked straight at me, and without even the hint of a smile, she soberly informed us that `when my husband and I first moved in, we used to see the light coming through the crack under the door leading to the attic. It used to bother me at first, but now I don’t pay it any heed.’ Even on a warm, spring morning, that pronouncement brought a chill to the air.
But, fellow cruisers, that is NOT the end of the story. I included a somewhat abbreviated version of the ghost story and our encounter with the homeplace’s owner in the first edition of `Cruising Guide to Coastal South Carolina and Georgia.’ As the years passed, and succeeding editions of CGSC (eventually including Georgia) were released, I always returned to that wondrous Georgetown homeplace and took new photos.
Fast forward to 1998, and my work on what I think was the fourth edition of my South Carolina ‘“ Georgia cruising guide. My faithful research assistant Bob Horne and I had spent the better part of two weeks poking our bow into every nook and cranny on the Waccamaw River north of Georgetown. And, anybody that knows the Waccamaw knows there are more than a few nooks and crannies along the water’s course. It was high time to spend a night with solid ground under our feet.
So, I phoned my dear friends Susan Sanders and Len Anderson, who at that time, had a shop in Georgetown named Harbor Specialties. In subsequent years, Harbor Specialties moved to Charleston, and eventually to Beaufort, North Carolina with satellite stores in Charleston and Pawleys Island. As usual, I digress.
I asked Susan if Bob and I could bunk in their spare bedroom that night, but Susan said she had something better in mind. `A new bed and breakfast inn is about to open, and while they are not yet in operation, the owner has offered to put you two up for the evening.’ That sounded wonderful, and so late that afternoon we came cruising up the Sampit River to the downtown Georgetown waterfront. I called Susan on the cell phone and asked where the new inn was located. She then asked me where we were. I thought that an odd question, but replied, `We are right in front of Boat Shed Marina.’ Susan replied, `See that big white house in front of you. That’s it.’ `Susan,’ I said, `you got us a room in the house with the ghost.’ `Oh, you know about that do you,’ said Susan.
So it was that we first met innkeeper Meg Tarbox and made the acquaintance of the Harbor House Bed and Breakfast Inn, hands down the most elegant and beautiful B&B in which it has been my privilege to visit. I soon told Meg the story related above, and learned that the elderly woman we had met was her grandmother, and J. Steveson Bolick, the author of the ghost story in question, was her grandfather. So, just to spice things up a bit, Meg put us in the two attic rooms.
Late in the night, (no kidding) I awoke to see a bright light shining on the bedroom wall. I remember thinking, `this is it, a life changing experience.’ Alas, though, I was not fated to meet the ghost. It turned out the light was shining through the nearby window, and when I got up and looked, I spied a shrimp trawler unloading on the waterfront. Several bright spot lights illuminated the scene, and this was the luminescence I had mistaken for the ghostly light in the dormer window.
Since that memorable night, Meg and I have become fast friends, and I’ve had the good fortune to spend many nights at the Harbor House. I still have yet to meet the young girl’s ghost, but every time I began to think it will never happen, I harken back to that conversation many years ago with Meg’s grandmother, and I can not help but wonder.
Claiborne S. Young January 23, 2007 All Rights Reserved
Please give a big welcome to Royal Marsh Harbor Yacht Club, the newest SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR! RMHYC has already attracted a number of SSECN readers to its membership who report a wealth of activities through club membership. A wonderful way to get truly involved in the spirit of the Abacos! Be sure to tell them SSECN sent you!
RMHYC is a yacht club based in Marsh Harbour, Abaco, an island group in the northern Bahamas. Boaters, both power and sail, as well as land-based members, enjoy the gin-clear waters surrounding the Sea of Abaco and participate in many social activities. Year after year, members from all over the United States and Canada spend the winter at several local marinas and the pristine anchorages of the Sea of Abaco. Once you arrive in Abaco you won’t want to leave! Membership provides the opportunity to participate in incredibly varied activities and far reaching discounts. You may choose to participate in any activity or none at all, but nearly everyone enjoys our membership discounts!
The standard one-year membership includes annual dues of $30 and a one-time initiation fee of $120, which includes a Club Burgee, that will be mailed to your primary address. If a person pays between October 1st and December 30th, their dues will be considered paid for both the current and following year. For more information, go to http://www.rmhyc.com/
And on your voyage south, be sure to take along “The Great Book of Anchorages, Bahamas” by Susan Landry and Chuck Baier. See /?p=122059
Larry, What a magnificent “virtual fellowship” I have had since joining RMHYC over since I saw them as a sponsor of SSEC. I’ve not actually been to Marsh Harbor yet as I am still “caregiving” in Hampton Roads. However, several members including their very astute and friendly Membership Coordinator (Val Nucci) have included me in up to date information and engaged me in email conversation.
The Oriental area is home to three SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSORS: Oriental Marina and Condos, Oriental Nautical Wheelers, and River Dunes. Please say hello for us as you enjoy this wonderful Fall weather and the delicious buys at the Farmers’ Markets.
From TownDock.net The Oriental Farmers’ Market happens every Saturday on Hodges Street from 8-11a. Local produce, baked goods, artisinal work can be found there. There are also markets on some Wednesdays. Next markets are Wednesday Oct 22 and Saturday Oct 25. To find out what’s for sale, visit http://towndock.net/market
At the Oriental Farmers’ Market, the emphasis is on `local’ ‘” all of the items for sale are locally grown or locally made. The market turned 7 this year and it’s still growing ‘“ it now has two rows of vendors providing a great selection for a market in a town of our size. Stop by and see for yourself.
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