RARE 4 night stay Pink Bungalow for 2 people – Staniel Cay and Makers Air
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Docked in our steamy summer environs, I cannot resist telling you about Tilghman Island and the legacy of the Watermen that have plied the Chesapeake Bay’s bounty for generations. STEADFAST lays at the creaking T-dock on the very channel that takes nine workboats from our yard to their hunting grounds each morning. These hardy individuals are constantly SPARRING WITH MOTHER NATURE; so this post begins a multi-part series about these hard-working people and a lifestyle that may change just enough to be jeopardized. Not by choice, but by circumstance.
The locals here have a compelling, distinctive, low-volume accent that blends words together while remaining perfectly understandable as long as you are paying attention. “I got you.” Is the best term for “yes” that I have ever heard and it is prevalent here. Tilghman is an unusual, supportive, close-knit place, a step back in time where things are simpler and people toil very long hours for uncertain pay. They rarely quit and they don’t judge.
On Saturday, from my shady pilothouse, I watched her rumble by, just as I have so many other days over the course of the last four summers, but this time the name struck a chord, and my brain started writing a story, as it does every time an opportunity presents itself that I cannot resist. I snapped some photos and the young man at the helm raised both his eyebrows and his hand in casual greeting. I smiled and went to ask permission, but he disappeared quickly at the end of his long, hot workweek.
Aptly named, LEGACY returns from a ten-hour day hunting blue crab. Boats much like her have harvested these waters for generations.His classic 36-foot deadrise style workboat was built by David “Bunky” Miller (God rest his soul) more as a Yacht than a workboat in 1983. Long story short, she sank and was headed for the scrap yard when the Miller family decided that was not the right thing to do. To them, she was already a piece of history, so they clearly told the owner, “No, no, no, don’t junk our legacy.” And LEGACY she became.
Bunky Miller was eighty years old when he refit LEGACY into the rugged but sleek working boat that she always should have been. But what then? The vessel had an unclear future that soon came into focus. There was a sixteen-year-old on the island that showed an impressive interest in working on the water; it was decided that youngster would rent her for one summer and then they would all go from there. Five years later, Severn Cummings is serious, committed, successful owner and docks LEGACY just four slips down from the son of the boatbuilder, another David Miller, now age 60.
Severn Cummings expertly pilots LEGACY into her home slip. Docking contests are great entertainment; if you ever have a chance to watch one, do it.“The whole story has a resurrection element,” David told me, “We wanted the traditions to continue. You know.” Severn had not yet learned all the things David’s grandfather had taught him when he was just a child, so when the summer crab season ended and oyster began, David kept Severn under his wing and taught him dredging, culling and the intricacies of making a living during the winter season around Tilghman Island. “I’ve never regretted that decision. Severn was the right choice.” he declared proudly. If taken care of, that workboat will last his entire career on the water. That’s how they’re built and we’ve learned a lot about that.
On Sunday I was on lookout again, and I caught the young Waterman at the last second as he pulled his rugged new pickup out of the dusty boatyard. I am the (nice but) eccentric sailboat lady, and played the part in full as I thudded, barefoot, wild-haired and sarong-clad, down the dock, hailing his rear-view mirror. He thankfully stepped on the brakes, rolled down the window and allowed that he didn’t think I could possibly be waving at him. He spoke quietly as I picked my way across the hundred-degree gravel, those eyebrows raised once again.
When I reached the driver’s side his expression plainly asked why on earth I would be flagging him down. “I’m a writer,” I told him (while we have greeted one another for years, it didn’t get much more personal than that). “I’ve published articles and was taking pictures of you yesterday….and I’d like to tell the story of you and your boat. The LEGACY of her.” I halted, which I don’t usually do. “That’s fine. None of that bothers me,” he told me directly. Well-adjusted, intelligent individuals meet your eyes when you speak to them, they answer quickly and honestly; they are decisive and, especially Watermen raised here, efficient. “That would be fine,” he nodded. “I’ll get in touch.”
Nothing bothers him much, I thought to myself as I turned back to the dock. Severn may just be one of those people who have the ability to take things as they come, and he’s learned some hard lessons lately, losing friends and seeing others injured beyond the imagination.
The diesels awaken me around 4am these long early summer days, and only a little later as the sun takes its journey back south. Voices carry remarkably over water, especially on calm mornings and at times I can hear rough voices over a crackling VHF radio. Sometimes I step up in the darkness and watch the silhouettes move in comfortable, longstanding routine, running lights on, readying for the day. The conversations are limited, almost non-existent, as they work toward a universal mission, to make a living and spend another day on the water, the legacy of their island. The legacy of this entire region, really. Many of the members of Severn’s generation have opted for regular hours, consistent pay and benefits: mechanics, firemen, landscapers. He did not.
I step over the predictably-placed dock lines while they are gone and the boats come back each day in a perfectly choreographed routine that varies only with the other traffic on this hundred-foot-wide slice of the Chesapeake Bay called Knapp’s Narrows. The channel separates Tilghman Island from the rest of the world; drawbridge clearance is just twelve feet. As I write this I can hear the clanging of the warning bell that indicates another raising; it’s just part of the deal here, you’re probably going to have to stop at the bridge, going one way or another. The most important thing here are the Watermen, and it doesn’t matter to those who respect them how long it takes for them to do what they do. It’s an understandable choice.
Only on Sundays do the boats stay in. The government mandates six day weeks or many of these strong people would start at 4am on that day, too; it’s not truly a day of rest, it is maintenance, refueling, baiting the trot lines, making sure that at 4am tomorrow all is well. Last fall I had the unforgettable opportunity to go out on LADY ALISON and I will always savor the memory. That story will be published soon. I wrote that one because I know this life is a heritage, a legacy, a tradition, that is disappearing; mansions are replacing farmhouses and the cost of living rises quickly as this beautiful place is ‘discovered’ by the ‘new people.’ It is a lament that will show itself as this series progresses.
For now, I’m honored to be close to these long running traditions, which began with wooden sailing vessels just like the one below that still sits at the dock down-island, one of just a few left. These Skipjack Buy Boats used to meet the smaller sailing workboats out on the water back in the day.
I hope you’re as fascinated as I am with the LEGACY of these Watermen; there are many more characters yet to be met!
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© 2024 Janice Anne Wheeler
548 Market Street PMB 72296, San Francisco, CA 94104
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On Friday, June 14, my beautiful wife of 42 years, Dona Jean, passed away from esophageal cancer. At age 63, she has crossed the bar.
Dona Jean grew up on the New Jersey shore and was a boater all her life. She attended Ocean City High School and graduated from West Chester University as a saxophone major. Before retiring she was a public school elementary instrumental music teacher in Pennsylvania. After retiring and moving to Charleston in 2007, we lived on a trawler for four years where she assisted and supported me as I began editing Cruisers Net for Claiborne Young.
She will be missed by me, by her daughters, Amelia and Millie and by her two grandsons, Micah and Leo, ages 3 and 4.
Larry
We are praying for the peace that only God can
provide for you and your family at this moment.
You were blessed with years of beautiful memories.
Larry,
I am so saddened to hear this news.
Prayers for her soul, and prayers for you and her family left behind!
Jim
Condolences on the loss of your bride. Thoughts and prayers to you and your family.
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Hello Everyone –
Thanks Greg and Barbara for taking the time to document and share some very informative and interesting experiences of people and the islands. I remember in the Sahara Desert getting credit often for the beautiful sunrise colors. Good to see that Bobby has found a partner and a new way to live. Sure bet the locals are enjoying the "fruits" of Bobby's labor….. pun intended "LOL"
In some cemeteries in the Bahamas people are buried in a sarcophagus like this one, sometimes because there may be a low water table in the ground. In other places, including Bimini, we have seen this custom of painting or putting a permanent photograph of the deceaseds on the tombstone or a sarcophagus. A nice thing.
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When all else fails, try journalism.
Reprinted with permission from The Conversation.
When people think about the risks of climate change, the idea of abrupt changes is pretty scary. Movies like “The Day After Tomorrow” feed that fear, with visions of unimaginable storms and populations fleeing to escape rapidly changing temperatures.
While Hollywood clearly takes liberties with the speed and magnitude of disasters, several recent studies have raised real-world alarms that a crucial ocean current that circulates heat to northern countries might shut down this century, with potentially disastrous consequences.
That scenario has happened in the past, most recently more than 16,000 years ago. However, it relies on Greenland shedding a lot of ice into the ocean.
Our new research, published in the journal Science, suggests that while Greenland is indeed losing huge and worrisome volumes of ice right now, that might not continue for long enough to shut down the current on its own. A closer look at evidence from the past shows why.
The Atlantic current system distributes heat and nutrients on a global scale, much like the human circulatory system distributes heat and nutrients around the body.
Warm water from the tropics circulates northward along the U.S. Atlantic coast before crossing the Atlantic. As some of the warm water evaporates and the surface water cools, it becomes saltier and denser. Denser water sinks, and this colder, denser water circulates back south at depth. The variations in heat and salinity fuel the pumping heart of the system.
If the Atlantic circulation system weakened, it could lead to a world of climate chaos.
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Ice sheets are made of fresh water, so the rapid release of icebergs into the Atlantic Ocean can lower the ocean’s salinity and slow the pumping heart. If the surface water is no longer able to sink deep and the circulation collapses, dramatic cooling would likely occur across Europe and North America. Both the Amazon rain forest and Africa’s Sahel region would become dryer, and Antarctica’s warming and melting would accelerate, all in a matter of years to decades.
Today, the Greenland ice sheet is melting rapidly, and some scientists worry that the Atlantic current system may be headed for a climate tipping point this century. But is that worry warranted?
To answer that, we need to look back in time.
In the 1980s, a junior scientist named Hartmut Heinrich and his colleagues extracted a series of deep-sea sediment cores from the ocean floor to study whether nuclear waste could be safely buried in the deep North Atlantic.
Sediment cores contain a history of everything that accumulated on that part of the ocean floor over hundreds of thousands of years. Heinrich found several layers with lots of mineral grains and rock fragments from land.
The sediment grains were too large to have been carried to the middle of the ocean by the wind or ocean currents alone. Heinrich realized they must have been brought there by icebergs, which had picked up the rock and mineral when the icebergs were still part of glaciers on land.
The layers with the most rock and mineral debris, from a time when the icebergs must have come out in force, coincided with severe weakening of the Atlantic current system. Those periods are now known as Heinrich events.
As paleoclimate scientists, we use natural records such as sediment cores to understand the past. By measuring uranium isotopes in the sediments, we were able to determine the deposition rate of sediments dropped by icebergs. The amount of debris allowed us to estimate how much fresh water those icebergs added to the ocean and compare it with today to assess whether history might repeat itself in the near future.
So, is the Atlantic current system headed for a climate tipping point because of Greenland melting? We think it’s unlikely in the coming decades.
While Greenland is losing huge volumes of ice right now – worryingly comparable to a midrange Heinrich event – the ice loss will likely not continue for long enough to shut down the current on its own.
Icebergs are much more effective at disrupting the current than meltwater from land, in part because icebergs can carry fresh water directly out to the locations where the current sinks. Future warming, however, will force the Greenland ice sheet to recede away from the coast too soon to deliver enough fresh water by iceberg.
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The strength of the Atlantic Meridional Overturning Circulation, or AMOC, is projected to decline 24% to 39% by 2100. By then, Greenland’s iceberg formation will be closer to the weakest Heinrich events of the past. Heinrich events, in contrast, lasted 200 years or so.
Instead of icebergs, meltwater pouring into the Atlantic at the island’s edge is projected to become the leading cause of Greenland’s thinning. Meltwater still sends fresh water into the ocean, but it mixes with seawater and tends to move along the coast rather than directly freshening the open ocean as drifting icebergs do.
The future trajectory of the Atlantic current system will likely be determined by a combination of the decelerating but more effective icebergs and the accelerating but less influential surface runoff. That will be compounded by rising ocean surface temperatures that could further slow the current.
So, the Earth’s pumping heart could still be at risk, but history suggests that the risk is not as imminent as some people fear.
In “The Day After Tomorrow,” a slowdown of the Atlantic current system froze New York City. Based on our research, we may take some comfort in knowing that such a scenario is unlikely in our lifetimes. Nevertheless, robust efforts to stop climate change remain necessary to ensure the protection of future generations.
LOOSE CANNON is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support the work, become a free subscriber. If you’ve been reading our stories for a while, consider uprgrading to paid.
Our sincerest thanks to Greg and Barbara Allard for once again sharing their thoughts and beautiful photography from their Bahamas cruises. These photos and descriptions will have you aching to follow in Meander‘s wake! For more of this excellent photography, type Allard in our Homepage search window for letters from previous cruises.
Ephasia, a Haitian girl, who lives in the ghetto on Russell Island. We picked her up in our golf cart as she was walking four miles to work on a brutally hot day. She works at Wreckers restaurant, at our marina. Spoke almost no English.
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Long ago, on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon in Arizona (far from my current environment) I watched the mid-day, late November sky darken and was unabashed until I glanced at my companion. Every strand of his straight blonde hair was completely on end, forming a perfect, unearthly orb as he gazed over the abyss, oblivious. That was the first time I felt that kind of power, and while I remember it with awe, we simply sprinted to the Jeep and observed, safely nestled amongst trees and crags on our rubber tires, snapping photos, listening to the thunder, laughing at the lashing, knowing that, however untimely, rain brings precious life to the desert.
Last night on the Chesapeake Bay, out of the corner of my eye I saw the lightning strike, stark white against the blackness of a cloud-covered sky and a moon not yet risen. I turned in that direction and saw a second strike, just north of the first, and felt a sudden temperature drop. The wind shifted and rapidly built. We were docked; no running from this one.
We had hosted a dinner guest and consciously checked the radar to see if we were within Mother Nature’s path of powerful storms that rocked the Midwest last Holiday Weekend. “Fireworks?’ he asked as he climbed down the boarding ladder. He must have sensed the energy, too, or gotten just a glimpse. “No,” I had replied, peering thoughtfully at the sky, but, as I considered those unexpected flashes it dawned on me that lightning is the original, true fire work of our planet, having made a significant contribution to creating life in most scientific theories, if not in the theological ones.
Exponentially more powerful than the Fourth of July celebrations which sometimes reverberate into your very bones, lightning strikes are a surreal release of pent-up energy. Weather.gov tells us that a typical lightning flash contains 300 million volts and 30,000 AMPS. For comparison, household current is 120 Volts and 15 AMPS, and that small amount is strong enough to be fatal if it flows through the (very) conductive human body. A sailing vessel is generally the tallest thing on the water and as a rule lightning is attracted to the closest available point of contact. There you have it. Lightning makes us nervous.
Is it the vulnerability? The outright danger of it? Perhaps it is both. Feeling vulnerable certainly ties closely into our inherent lack of control in regard to Mother Nature and the weather. People often ask if we have encountered big storms, and we have. Here is a recent story about waves and wind: (OVER AND OVER AND OVER ) It’s the lightning, though, that is frightening in its unpredictability. And stunningly beautiful. I become mesmerized as I watch where the last strike was and to see what the next one might bring, only to spot one in a direction I wouldn’t have anticipated.
The majority of the time we won’t be able to outrun, won’t be able to avoid these squalls. They change direction and like tiny little hurricanes the wind on one side blows in the opposite direction of the wind on the other side, so as it passes you have to once again adjust, joust, spar, maneuver, second guess and hope.
Last year, on a northerly course off the coast of Florida, destination Fernandina Beach, we sparred one night, slicing through the narrow space between two rapidly-building, fast-moving cells that joined just behind our transom as we sailed to victory on that run, adrenaline pumping long after we dropped anchor and crept into the shelter of our bed. We’ve seen storms come across the water at astonishing speeds, leaving no chance to even joust before the first whirling gust is upon us. At night you watch the strikes, far off, and hope they don’t change direction but they can, and they do. We receive forecasts from Marine Weather Center (MWXC.com) as a subscription service. While they always warn of the big weather systems, it is the squalls that come with the highest risk, the least consistency, and the most power. I think it is safe to say that weather is an inexact science; no matter how good the forecaster, they can certainly be wrong, just like the rest of us.
When we first moved aboard this ketch-rigged sailing yacht a friend inquired, “Do you have lightning rods?” I replied, “Yes, we do have lightning rods.” After hanging up the phone on that call, I looked at my grew-up-on-the-water husband and chuckled a bit awkwardly. “Yes,” he said to me. “We definitely have two giant lighting rods. One is 65 feet and one is 50 feet.”
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A ketch rig is when the main mast is taller than the aft, or mizzen mast. While it may look like lightning rods up there, those are actually VHF antennae.
So, you might ask, is there anything available to deter this particular aspect of Mother Nature’s tendencies? To put yourself at an advantage as you spar out on the open ocean? There are methods and theories going back to the King of Lightning Benjamin Franklin in the 1800’s. These days, Lightning Dissipators are designed to create a negative ion field around the mast, depending on installation. A negative ion controversially creates a ground and more damage can occur with these systems than with nothing at all, according to a veteran Marine Surveyor and investigator of innumerable lightning strike incidents (full disclosure also my husband Steve Uhthoff). For a much more in-depth examination of this topic, please see this LOOSE CANNON. We take the risks with the rewards.
The first winter we explored the Outislands of the Bahamas (Rum Cay, Conception and beyond) we ran low on fresh water. STEADFAST is designed (thank you Dmitri!) with a fresh water collection system on the roof of her pilot house. During a heavy rain shower it’s impressive how much water can fall from the sky, and without a desalination machine, life on the sea is just like life on the high desert. On a calm passage we encountered a slow-moving thunderhead with what looked like lots of life-saving rain. Full of bright ideas and always up for a challenge, we wiped the salt off the surfaces, unburied and hooked up the extensive network of hoses for the collection system, fired up the Detroit Diesel and headed into what was hopefully a rain shower and not a passing storm cell.
The first spar was so close!! We felt some sprinkles but were outmaneuvered in the end, bone dry and miles off our original course. We had no real destination in mind, no schedule, and were not yet defeated. Soon enough we spotted our next target, seemingly not far away, and in a better direction; we utilized both sails and engine only to watch the dark mass pull away from us once again as we heard the rumble of thunder, saw the fireworks within. Mother Nature was simply sending us a reminder that it’s us that moves slowly. Very slowly. We can’t catch and we can’t run.
We found an anchorage that sheltered us from the wind but not the deluge. Unseen, unpredicted and unheard, the downpour hit us late that very night, the rain collection equipment was stored away, the hatches open, the laundry hung out to dry. The Heavens opened once again, this time right onto the bed. The irony struck me full-on as we bolted on deck stark-naked to shut what needed to be shut and then towel off, laughing, knowing I should have just grabbed the soap…
We learned our lesson and never chased another storm. SPARRING WITH MOTHER NATURE on her terms and winning is elusive enough.
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I call these “Holes to Heaven” when the sun’s rays find their way through the clouds, this time in Abaco, Bahamas. It does not make the impending storms less threatening, just more photogenic!
I truly appreciate that you read this story; I have many more to tell you!
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© 2024 Janice Anne Wheeler
548 Market Street PMB 72296, San Francisco, CA 94104
Cape Lookout Bight is a wonderful, natural harbor formed by Cape Lookout’s curve of land. This superb anchorage, one of the most popular in North Carolina, The channel between Harkers Island and Cape Lookout Lighthouse has been widened to 100 feet with depths ranging from 7 to 9 feet. This is good news for cruisers wishing to anchor in Cape Lookout Bight southeast of Beaufort.
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Lat/Lon: 34 37.395 North/076 32.931 West

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