More of Captain Jones’ Log on the Great Dismal Swamp Canal and Elizabeth City, NC
Ted Jones continues his navigation of the Great Dismal Swamp Canal stopping in Elizabeth City, NC. The Great Dismal Swamp Canal route southbound departs the AICW south of Norfolk at Statute Mile 7.2 and begins officially at Deep Creek Lock at Mile 10.6. The Visitors Center is at approximately Mile 28. Elizabeth City is south of South Mills Lock at Statute Mile 50.7 and is A SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR!
Log, October 21, 2010 ~ Dismal Swamp Welcome Center, NC to Elizabeth City, NC:
There were seven sailboats tied up to the bulkhead, and one small powerboat joined us early. Most of the southbound cruisers wanted to make the 1100 lock, which meant leaving at 1000. Jim had not seen the museum located on the opposite bank of the canal, so we decided we could wait until the 1300 lock if need be, slipping out from alongside out host then taking his place at the bulkhead. Jim went off to cross over the floating bridge to the museum, and I went looking for Penny Leary-Smith, the welcome center manager. I didn’t have to go far, as she was on the dock, talking to cruisers. We chatted for a bit, then I went to the welcome center to sign the guest register and complete a survey the staff had prepared to indicate the importance of the center in the face of severe budget restraints by the state. It is MHO that this is an extremely important first (and last) stop for tourists entering the state by both automobile and boat. As far as is known, it is the only welcome center of its kind in the country serving, as it does, both boat and vehicle traffic.
Jim returned well before 1000, so we decided to leave with the rest and go for the 1100 lock. We soon passed the slow pokes in front (at 5.9 knots) and were first to reach the lock. There was method in my madness, as that would put us in the lead into Elizabeth City and assure us of a place at the dock. And so it was. We were far ahead of the second boat and were accorded our own passage under the Elizabeth City Bridge. We were soon tied up in a narrow slip (to be preferred as that made it easier to reach the outer pilings for stern and spring lines. We were met by two `dockboys’ ~ both well over 70 who took our port and starboard bow lines while we made fast aft. It is not a great dock, as marinas go, but the price is right, and nowhere have we been met by two dockhands who welcomed us with all sorts of information about their town including an invitation to attend the `rose buddies’ free wine and cheese party later. Although both of the original rose buddies have gone to Heaven (guaranteed), the city maintains the tradition they started.
I went off to the Farm Fresh supermarket, which had sent a car to pick up anyone wanting to shop there. When I got back, the wine and cheese party had already begun, sto I hastily stacked out provisions on the bow and went to join Jim, who the dock boy told me had already gone there. What a place! One could not ask for better hospitality, and the dock is located in the old part of town near many convenient services and stores. Fantastic!
Captain Ted Jones, former owner of Coastal Cruising Magazine
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