Our thanks to Captain Troup Nightingale for this valuable onsite, local knowledge report on depths in Jekyll Creek. His advice is well worth heeding. Jekyll Wharf is on the eastern shoulder of the Waterway north of the bridge and Jekyll Creek is home to CRUISERS NET SPONSOR, Jekyll Harbor Marina.
The worst part of Jekyll Creek is within days of dredging completion. Jekyll Creek has been known as one of, if not the worst, sections of the ICW. On below mean low water, portions of the channel have been at around 3 feet. HOWEVER MAKE NOTE – only the EAST side (green side) of the magenta line has been dredged giving around 45 to 75 feet of channel at best. Local knowledge thinks it will fill back in rapidly. So, you must try to stay just EAST of the magenta line. Dredging started about a half mile north of Green 19 and ended near Jekyll Bridge. Headed South, you come around the Green 19 on your port and then get left of the magenta line towards Jekyll Wharf. The dredged channel is pretty close to the docks, not the Red marker there. Headed to Jekyll Wharf will position you very close to the mud on your left – surprisingly close! After Jekyll Wharf docks, the channel bends in a righthand arc – not straight red to red. Again, at low tide, you will be surprisingly close to the mud bank to port. The channel was suppose to be dug and then the sides sloped upwards. What we see is a very sharp difference between the dredged channel and the non-dredged area. So, you could be zooming along in 12 feet of water at low tide and all of a sudden be in 3 feet—both sides. My knowledge of Jekyll Creek has been for around 20 years; 10 of those as a past TowBoatUS Captain. Currently, I run Dolphin and ECO Tours on 45 foot tour boats from Jekyll Wharf where at low tide, we still have to bow in to the docks to have water for our engines while the dock sits in the mud. Captain Troup Nightingale
Our thanks to Genko Ganev for this report of shoaling at the eastern edge of Sapelo Sound, GA.
We are on a catamaran with a 3.2 feet draft and entering the channel through the marked buoys and our chart plotter showing 21 feet of depth we ran aground and spent 30 minutes trying to get out. The shoal must have shifted south. 31 32.021 N and 081 08.692 W Genko Ganev
Our sincerest thanks to Greg and Barbara Allard for sharing their thoughts and beautiful photography from their Bahamas cruises. These photos and descriptions will have you aching to follow in the Allard’s wake! For more this excellent photography, type Allard in our Homepage search window for letters from previous cruises.
“We all come from the sea, but we are not all of the sea. Those of us who are, we children of the tides, must return to it again and again, until the day we don’t come back leaving only that which was touched along the way.”
—Frosty Hesson, Chasing Mavericks
Hi Friends – Some final pictures from Eleuthera, then some from the Exumas, a beautiful group of islands and cays in the central Bahamas.
The biggest challenge we face is the weather. We’ve cruised in the Bahamas for a number of years, but during the last three we found that there were more times when the wind was unrelenting, when the seas looked like this – or worse – every day for weeks on end.
As the old-salts say: the boat can take more than you can. We agree. We avoid such seas whenever possible. However, some times we leave on a calm day after we consult multiple weather sources, but the forecasts turn out to be wrong, and we have to deal with large seas for hours. Paradise is not perfect.
Marilyn and Phil operate a small organic farm on Eleuthera. We bought several of the famous Eleuthera pineapples from them. You may think you’ve had a good pineapple before tasting one from this island. Phil showed us how to propagate a pineapple by cutting off its top and planting it.
Marilyn has a killer smile.
Elliot, the owner of Tippy’s restaurant on Eleuthera. He’s also the lead singer in their Saturday night band. Yes, he is a character.
Tarpum Bay, on Eleuthera, is a poor settlement, with the look of a place struggling to survive. Yet the community found the resources to build this new waterside swing and hammock set for their children. Pride of place. Correct priorities.
Earlier in this trip we showed you a Ghost crab. This is his cousin – a Land crab. Some land crabs can spread their claws sideways and they will be two feet wide. This variety is a bit smaller, but his beautiful colors make up for any size envy. I particularly liked the face: a perpetual frown moulded into his shell. Sadly, he never gets to smile.
We visited Charles Strachan in his home. He is a basket weaver, and uses only the fronds from silver top palms for his work; he says they are the strongest and most durable. Barbara plans to use the large round mat as a wall hanging.
Our next leg brought us to the Exumas, a group of islands in the central Bahamas. The Exuma Land and Sea Park is a legally designated sanctuary where fishing, lobstering, collecting shells or removal of any natural item are not permitted. The Park is twenty two miles long and 8 miles wide, and consists of dozens – if not hundreds – of cays and islands.
When we arrived at Warderick Wells, the island where the park office is located, we were happy to see the new Metal Shark boat, built by the company where our son Chris is CEO.
I was fortunate to join the Park Administrator and go out on patrol. Captain Joseph Ierna Jr., the Administrator, was at the helm, and one of the Royal Bahamian Defense Force Marines – who are regulars on board – was at the bow. Joe commented that he liked that the Metal Shark boat gave the impression of “all business” – that it was intimidating in a way, which made his enforcement duties easier. My response to Joe: “Yes, the boat certainly has a military, aggressive look, but I do think that much of the intimidation was due to the large muscular Marine, Tamal, at the bow, with a sidearm.”
Tamal exchanges some paperwork with a sailboat which was anchored in the Park.
Yes, maybe even a bit ferocious.
Captain Joe Ierna. He’s brought fresh ideas, sound business sense and a new approach to the Park.
The Bahamas are as beautiful underwater as they are above. The visibility is incredible. We estimated here that it was over 250’. When I used to dive in the Northeast, we were happy to have 30’ of visibility. At the top of the photo you can see the underside of the surface of the water.
There is a huge variety of soft and hard coral. At the upper right is a brain coral. Lower left are sea rods. In the center is what we think is a saucer coral. On our boat we carry some excellent guides to fish, coral and reef creatures, but sometimes especially with coral, identification is difficult. So for convenience we call the dark green one in the center a vase coral.
One of the most beautiful fish in the sea – a stunning Queen Angelfish.
The colors on this Ocean Surgeonfish are more subtle than those of the Queen Angel, but this fish is just beautiful.
A purple sea fan with a large parrot fish feeding on the coral.
A spotted eagle ray, with a wingspan close to eight feet. It’s humbling to swim near something so big. Under his left wing, look for the tail of a remora fish. More about that in a future letter. The ray’s tail is so long it extends outside of the picture, to the right.
More recent brain coral, growing over some older coral.
These fish are called Sergeant Majors, because of their chevron-like markings. This photo may look like it was taken through an aquarium window, but the location is on a reef just north of Cambridge Cay. The fish closest to the camera was particularly curious. He thought we had brought food…
The fish in the Park have nothing to fear from man because they are in the sanctuary of the Park. (How do they know if they are in the Park?) In any event, they are relaxed around divers.
So…Just in case you thought the last photo was from an aquarium, our friend Ellen took this photo of me, surrounded by dozens of Sergeant Majors, as I tried to take the previous picture!
This reef, aptly enough, is called The Aquarium.
Sunset over the Land and Sea Park.
Today on a remote beach we bumped into two longtime Bahamian friends, who are involved in the marine and tourism business. We were all swimming together, and she commented that the water was almost too warm to be refreshing. We had noticed that this year the water in the Bahamas was warmer much earlier (we could swim in April) and the waters are now warmer than we have ever experienced in June. They said that this really concerns them as we have just entered the hurricane season, and that it’s too early for the water to be so warm. Hurricanes view warm water as food. They thrive on it, and it makes them grow.
As we consider how long we will remain in the Bahamas, our friends’ comments will have weight on our decision. It’s a long way home, and our boat does not go faster than a hurricane.
Our thanks to Tom Hale for this explanation of the Clean Water Act and how it pertains to boats. The hearing to which he refers is the Georgia DNR hearing on wording of HB 201 being held today in Brunswick, GA.
CLEAN WATER ACT
For those who will attend the hearing today. I think it very important that the issue of boat sewage and NDZs is presented clearly and with one voice.
As previously stated, I have been involved with the issues of boat waste discharge and marine sanitation systems with related issues since the 1970s. After being involved with the creation of several No Discharge Zone laws (and always being on the losing end!) I understand that there is a great deal of confusion which then leads to the dissemination of misinformation. NDZs are proposed and established because if the “icky” factor of sewage. When people hear that there is such a thing as “no discharge zones” they assume that that means that anyplace else is a “discharge zones”. And then citizens, Natural Resource types and elected officials get worried about all the boats dumping sewage into “our waters.“ Then with little fore though t or study they decide “We must eliminate this sewage and create a law making it illegal to dump sewage in our waters.” The Georgia law reflects this confusion. It is already illegal to dump raw sewage into the waters of GA or any other territorial waters of the USA. (https://www.epa.gov/vessels-marinas-and-ports/vessel-sewage-frequently-asked-questions)
There is further confusion because the law also states that each vessel must be equipped with a marine sanitation device (MSD) . The word “device” may, to some people, imply that there has to be some sort of mechanical “thing.” Under the law, a sewage holding tank is one such device. Every boat out there today has a marine sanitation device, that being a holding tank (A sewage holding thank is by definition a Type III marine sanitation device.). Every boat out there has the equipment required to be in compliance with the clean water act.
The clean vessel act (https://wsfrprograms.fws.gov/Subpages/GrantPrograms/CVA/CVA.htm) is a program to make funding available for the installation of shore side facilities to handle the waste from boats. In my personal cruising experience Maryland, Rhode Island, Vermont, New York and Massachusetts have done an exemplary job of encouraging commercial facilities to build pump out stations and a number of cities and towns operate mobile pump out boats.
NDZs are created on a state level. To declare a body of water to be an NDZ the state must be able to prove that there are adequate facilities in place to handle the needs of the boating community. A reminder, NDZs only apply to boats which have an onboard treatment system (And, by the way, dumping a bunch of chemicals into your holding tank to kill bacteria does NOT meet the requirements of a sewage treatment system.) Georgia DNR has to understand that declaring all the waters of the state to be an NDZ is unnecessary due to existing federal law. There is no need to duplicate it with a state law. If there are concerns, GA DNR can and should enforce the federal laws already on the books.
The following is from an EPA website on the Clean Water Act.
Section 312 of the Clean Water Act requires the use of operable, U.S. Coast Guard-certified marine sanitation devices (MSDs) onboard vessels that are equipped with installed toilets and operating on U.S. navigable waters.
Untreated sewage discharges are prohibited within three miles from shore.
In order to discharge within three miles, sewage must be treated using a U.S. Coast Guard-approved Type I or Type II MSD. Alternatively, sewage may be stored onboard in a holding tank (Type III MSD).
Treated and untreated sewage discharges are prohibited in:
Freshwater lakes, reservoirs and other freshwater impoundments whole inlets or outlets are such as to prevent the ingress or egress by vessel traffic.
Rivers not capable of navigation by interstate vessel traffic.
No-discharge zones (NDZs) (as applicable).
In these areas, sewage effluent generally must be retained onboard in a holding tank (Type III MSD). Operators of vessels equipped with flow-through MSDs (Type I or Type II) must secure the device to prevent overboard discharge.
This is the third summary of comments regarding wording of Georgia’s HB 201 which restricts anchoring in Georgia’s coastal waters. See also GAMBA Statement and Save Georgia’s Anchorages.
These comments pertaining to the Notice of Rule Making for Coastal Marshland Protection and Boating Regulations are respectfully submitted on behalf of a coalition of boating associations formed several years ago to protect cruisers’ anchoring rights. Our coalition includes America’s Great Loop Cruisers’ Association (AGLCA), Defever Cruisers Group, Marine Trawler Owners’ Association (MTOA) and Seven Seas Cruising Association (SSCA). Collectively, our coalition represents approximately 12,000 active boaters. We strongly believe that derelict and abandoned vessels, and vessels left unattended at anchor, are major problems and that a solution to rid our waterways of these vessels is needed. They present hazards to navigation, cause damage to property, and clog anchorages that would otherwise be useable for responsible, active cruisers. However, the proposal to require a permit for short-term anchoring in Georgia is unduly burdensome and creates a hindrance for boaters who want or need to “drop the hook” in Georgia’s pristine anchorages. While some of our members question the constitutionality of the law, we recognize DNR’s responsibility is to implement the law as it stands. However, we believe the existing law and proposed rules are fraught with potential problems on implementation. Below are questions and concerns brought forth by our members related only to implementation, and the challenges inherent in the rules as proposed: • Transient boaters entering Georgia may not be informed about the requirement to obtain a permit and may inadvertently be in violation • Weather, mechanical issues, and other factors beyond the boater’s control may prevent them from planning enough in advance to obtain a permit (i.e., they may be forced to anchor when and where they did not intend to) • With some mobile service providers, service may not be available everywhere in the estuarine areas of Georgia, leaving a boater unable to obtain a permit • Local boaters object to needing a permit to spend a weekend at anchor in their “backyard”. • Will DNR have the man-power to enforce the permit regulations? • How will boaters know where they can anchor under the exclusionary approach that all waterways are closed to anchoring except those that DNR designates as anchoring areas? To address the permit issues, we suggest that a permit not be needed when anchoring in one location for less than 60 days. Accordingly, we propose the language in 391-4-5-.23 (1) and (2) be amended as follows: (1) Anchoring or Docking Vessels at Night. No person shall anchor or dock a vessel at night in the estuarine area of the state unless it is at an eligible facility, as defined in O.C.G.A. 52-7-8.4, or in an anchorage area established by the Department as outlined in paragraph (3), below. No boat may be left unattended at anchor for more than seven days. If anchored for more than 60 days in one location, an anchorage permit as outlined in paragraph (2), below, is required. This rule does not apply to the following: A vessel docked at a private recreational dock or a non-eligible facility so long as such vessel is not utilized as a live-aboard vessel, as defined in O.C.G.A. 52-7-8.4; (2) Anchorage Permits. (a) Vessels may not be anchored for more than 180 days in one location. Persons anchoring a vessel for more than 60 days in one place in the estuarine area and within an anchorage area established by the Department, must purchase and be in possession of an anchorage permit, except as provided herein. (b) Permit Fee. 1. A monthly anchorage permit is valid for 30 days and is available at a cost of $40.00. 2. Senior citizens (65 years of age or older), active duty military and veterans may purchase a monthly anchorage permit at a fifty percent discount. (c) Anchorage permits shall be available at all sites that sell hunting and fishing licenses, by phone and online. (d) Anchorage permits may be printed or held electronically, but must be onboard the vessel at all times and available for inspection upon request. When a vessel is unoccupied at night, any monthly anchorage permit must be prominently displayed and visible from the water. (e) Any person applying for an anchorage permit for a live-aboard vessel must certify to no discharge of sewage, treated or untreated, into the estuarine area of the state. (f) Exemptions to this rule may be granted by the Department for unique circumstances. Conditional permission must be requested in writing to the Commissioner. This solution eases the burden on, and the concerns of, the cruising community. We recognize that, one reason to support the need for the permits is to give additional authority for law enforcement to impound derelict, abandoned, and long-term stored vessels, as they are unlikely to have a permit. Removing the obligation to obtain a permit for short-term stays does not interfere with the goal of giving law enforcement additional leverage to deal with this very real issue. With a permit not required for short-term anchoring, should DNR deem it necessary, our coalition would support fees for monthly anchoring permits that are higher than those proposed. Regarding the approved anchorage areas, we proposed a more inclusive approach where all areas are open to anchoring with a few exceptions. We suggest that the language in 391-4-5-.23 (3) be amended to specifically state that anchorage areas include all waterways, with restrictions only where anchoring can create a hazard or cause environmental damage. The State of Florida has a statute in place that establishes setbacks from marine infrastructure in which anchoring is not permitted. We propose modeling the Georgia regulations on Florida’s statute, as follows: (3) Public Notice. Anchorage areas shall be all of Georgia coastal waters except shellfish beds, navigation channels, and within 150 feet of marine infrastructure including marinas, boat ramps, boatyards, or other vessel launching or loading facilities. (b) This subsection does not apply to: 1. A vessel owned or operated by a governmental entity. 2. A construction or dredging vessel on an active job site. 3. A commercial fishing vessel actively engaged in commercial fishing. 4. A vessel actively engaged in recreational fishing if the persons onboard are actively tending hook and line fishing gear or nets. 5. A vessel suffering a mechanical failure that requires immediate securing of the vessel to avoid grounding, drifting into area of greater hazard, and/or to allow the operator to attempt repairs or wait for a tow. 6. Imminent or existing weather conditions in the vicinity of the vessel pose a risk of harm to the vessel or the persons aboard. Our coalition thanks you for the opportunity to share our comments as part of the proceeding. Respectfully, Kimberly Russo On behalf of America’s Great Loop Cruisers’ Association Defever Cruisers Group Marine Trawler Owners’ Association Seven Seas Cruising Association
Explorer Chartbooks, A CRUISERS NET PARTNER, has long been the standard navigational supplement for enjoyable, informative, and safe cruising through the beautiful Bahamian waters and island visits.
I’ll soon be crossing from West Palm to the West End and eventually to the Abacos. It’s close enough, that I’m looking at the weather more closely. First thing I notice is that generally every day over the next 10 days, there is a prediction of rain or “scattered thunderstorms”. Not having been to the Bahamas before I’m wondering if this is just the standard late day 15-30 minute storms that typically roll through FL in the Summer. Or is this really a rainy time in the area.
I’d love to hear other insights or general knowledge about this so we can plan for it appropriately.
Since our stop last year here at Big Farmers Cay, four 2’x4′ red with white lettering “NO TRESPASSING” signs have been placed along the west shore of the cay.
All cruisers please be aware, Chub Cay Marina no longer allows “transients” from the anchorage to go ashore! This includes the Ship Store and the restaurants! It was in listed in this seasons explorer charts on page 62, that cruisers could buy an “Adventure” debut card for $100 and use it in the shop and restaurants. (We would of course be spending more!) Friends who were here a short time ago suggested we come here because they had so much fun at The Nauti Rooster, we were hoping to go. They no longer are providing this service as of about a week ago. Now they stop all dingy’s a the fuel dock and won’t let you go to the dingy dock. (We even had a local friend try to pick us up and take us to dinner and they still wouldn’t let us.) So now we are stuck here, low on beer, wine and some basic groceries with no access to the store.
Heads up if you need anything or want to go to the restaurant, you can’t anymore!
You can still get a slip at the marina for $4.25 a foot.
A new fuel and Dockage Survey has been posted on https://www.explorercharts.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=56&Itemid=53 Most fuel prices were up since last month and many dockage rates as well. A number of marinas could not be contacted and some were too busy to give any information. The prices shown in red are old and should not be trusted.
The date of last months survey was in error. It was posted on March 6, 2019; not 2018. We will attempt to contact the marinas with old prices and if we cannot, they will be removed from the list. Collecting the information for the survey is as frustrating as herding cats.
Update… Exuma Yacht Club has had diesel for a couple of weeks now. $4.78 a gallon. I took a few samples in a glass jar along the way, looks clean. But the pump is VERY slow. About 5GPM… fueling now… not sure if I ll have the patience to pump the 1000 gallons I wanted.
The sand bar that extends south from North Bimini Entrance Point continues to move south, encroaching on the dredged channel east of the Bimini Waypoint shown on Explorer Chart BIM 3. That problem is made worse by the lack of any effort by the Bahamas Government to move and maintain the buoys previously placed at the channel entrance. The deepest water into Bimini Sands Marina or the North Bimini Harbour is currently along a straight line from the Bimini Waypoint to the jettied entrance of the Bimini Sands Marina. The minimum SLW depth along this line is currently 2.4 meters. Just inside the jetties the depth drops to 1.5 meters for a very short distance then deepens to 3 meters at the marina basin. The straight line course between the waypoint and the jetties passes close and on the wrong side of a red buoy which was previously the second buoy on the channel entrance. The first buoy along this approach was moved by a hurricane over a year and a half ago and now rests on the Entrance Point shoal in very shallow water. This buoy should be avoided.
For vessels headed to North Bimini Harbour, a turn to the north should be made along longitude 79° 18.2′. A green buoy marking the area of this turn has been last seen on the beach near the Bimini Sands jetties. There may be several buoys marking the channel between the Entrance Point shoal and South Bimini. Depths along this part of the channel range between 2.3 and 4.5 meters.
Mariners should be alert for moved or missing aids to navigation and expect shifting sand and the possibility of future shoaling. Government maintenance of aids to navigation has been casual in the past. We have been unable to find any local contacts that can advise of changes in the existence of buoys and their accurate positions in the Bimini Channel.
We just spoke with the Dockmaster at Old Bahama Bay, West End, Grand Bahama. Here is their current status: The marina is 95% closed. That means there are 6-7 slips available in the marina. They are also making available room for 4-5 boats in the canal along a concrete dock tied to cleats. They take NO reservations. Call no sooner than 2-3 days ahead for availability.
Congratulations Welcome Center! The Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Center Docks and information are provided at the Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Center, A CRUISERS NET SPONSOR and a NC DOT Rest Area facility, located adjacent to the Dismal Swamp State Park, offering trails, exhibits and ongoing programs in Camden County, NC.
Click below for Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Center Celebrates 30 Years!
We took the Dismal headed South one fall and then again headed North in the spring and it WAS one our favorite experiences of our 8-month Snow Bird tin. We live the Swamp and the people who man it!Take it slow and enjoy a journey back in time
Don't let people scare you away from this run – it's gorgeous. Just be attentive. The welcome center is a must stop. Also Elizabeth City at the south end.
Our thanks to Ted Arisaka and Save Georgia’s Anchorages for this interactive map of select Georgia anchoring waters. After opening the map, zoom in on one of the red dots. The red circles shown indicate 150 feet from structures near waters appropriate for anchoring. The setback distance has been a major issue for a number of cruisers.
This is an Waterway eastern shore on which you do NOT want to walk your dog! Because of the official restrictions, there are obviously no anchorages recommended in the area. Browns Island is immediately north of Browns Inlet.
This response to Georgia’s HB 201 legislation which restricts anchoring on Georgia’s coast has been formulated by a number of very experienced cruisers and a representative of the Georgia Marine Business Association, GAMBA, all of whom worked many hours through extensive discussion to put together a cohesive statement regarding the wording of HB 201. There is still time before Monday’s GA DNR meeting for each of you to submit your own comment, see HB 201 for addresses.
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