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Weekly news & updates
June 10, 2024 | City of Gulfport, FL – Gateway to the Gulf Newsletter
The City of Gulfport kicked off Pride Month on June 1 with a Flag Raising & ArtOut Exhibit at the Library (video), followed by the Fourth Annual Gulfport Pride event.
Join us weekly at our open-air fresh market for the region’s freshest produce, arts & crafts from local creators and a fresh array of locally sourced botanicals along the shops and restaurants of scenic Beach Boulevard.
Fun with Finger Painting for Kids: Tuesday, 6/11 @ 3 p.m. – Have fun finger painting with us using nontoxic paint!.
Styrofoam Block Prints for Kids: Tuesday, 6/25 @ 3 p.m. – Participants will “ carve “ their own design into a styrofoam block as a kid-safe method of block printing!
Our sincerest thanks to Greg and Barbara Allard for once again sharing their thoughts and beautiful photography from their Bahamas cruises. These photos and descriptions will have you aching to follow in Meander‘s wake! For more of this excellent photography, type Allard in our Homepage search window for letters from previous cruises.
Hello Everyone –
In the last Letter from the Bahamas, we introduced you to Bobby Little, and to Rum Cay – a small out-island in the remote southern Bahamas. In 2011 it had a population of around 69, and over the years that has decreased.
Bobby Little owned and ran the Sumner Point marina on Rum, and in our last Letter we told you about Bobby’s intriguing and talented background. And then we told you that the marina is no more.
A number of years ago, another American who had a place on Rum, asserted his ownership to the Sumner Point marina, which had been owned by Bobby’s parents. The dispute was prolonged. Then, one night, when Bobby was “off island”, unknown persons bulldozed to the ground all of the marina’s buildings, including the clubhouse and several rental cottages.
The dispute as to ownership continued in the Bahamian courts for years, and Bobby reports that it has now been finally determined that he is the rightful owner of the marina… which of course doesn’t exist, other than for a few remaining docks in poor condition.
Bobby has determined that he will not be reopening the marina, and he will be putting the land up for sale. So what is this multi-talented person doing now? Well, he is a farmer on Eleuthera, another Bahamian island.
Bobby Little today, on his farm. At 62 years of age, he has begun the next of his life’s stories. He is married to a wonderful woman named Gro, who is Scandinavian. Another long time friend is now a partner with Bobby in this unusual undertaking.
He grows watermelons, hot and sweet peppers, herbs, onions, broccoli, and tomatoes.
A laden mango tree.
He also raises bananas and he explained that this particular variety were firmer and better tasting than most. We took some home and they were the very best we have ever had. Sorry Chiquita.
At the front gate to Spring Land Farm, you meet this artistic carving which can only have been done by Bobby. It gives you an idea of what else Bobby raises…
Goats. 500 of them.
Within five minutes of arriving, Bobby enlisted Barbara to help round up a few of the critters who had escaped the main holding pen.
In his past life, Bobby had been an excellent fish cleaner, so there was no reason to expect that he wasn’t equally capable of cleaning a goat. Here he is starting to remove the skin, which is valuable.
Some of these skins are destined to be used to make Junkanoo drums. Junkanoos are yearly festivals with dance and music held throughout the Bahamas.
While touring the farm, we noticed that the soil was very red and rich. Bobby explained that his farm is situated in a hollow or valley, and that the red soil is carried by the winds from the Sahara in Africa. That was a head-scratcher. We’ve never known Bobby to be inaccurate, but after we left the farm we just had to learn about that claim. Well, it is true, and there have been numerous professional scientific studies to confirm it. It occurs even today; Eleuthera is a prime beneficiary, and is the reason it has farmland which is extremely productive.
Bobby’s eventual idea is to open the farm as a working showcase for visitors. He already supplies local restaurants and resorts with his crops.
After all of the struggles which Bobby has gone through, we were thrilled to see that his new project has been so successful. We found Bobby extraordinarily happy with his new life, which of course is far different from his life on Rum Cay. After all, for our friends and family – and in fact for people everywhere – isn’t happiness all we wish for them?
The French Leave Resort at Governor’s Harbour on Eleuthera.
Tarpum Bay. The settlement was originally meant to refer to the Tarpon fish which were plentiful, but the name evolved.
Cracked conch. My favorite Bahamian meal.
Yellowfin tuna.
A grouper, created by a local artist, from beach glass.
The bounty of Eleuthera. Watermelon and bananas from Bobby’s farm, and a pair of Eleutherian pineapples. Years ago we learned about these exceptional pineapples, and when we finally had one we could see that they were significantly better than pineapples from anywhere else: they are more tender, so much so that you can eat the core, the texture is softer and the flavor – just extraordinary – sweeter and fresher. The distinguishing difference in appearance is that the leaves have serrated edges, where other pineapples have smooth edged leaves. They start ripening in mid May.
From a previous trip to the Bahamas, Barbara has learned how to propagate them. After you cut the tops off and leave about 1” of the pineapple, you peel off a couple of rows of the lower leaves, then just plant the top in the ground. It takes 18 months for a full sized pineapple to be produced.
This will be our last Letter from the Bahamas from our 2024 cruise, and we hope you have enjoyed traveling with us. Goodbye for another year to a wonderful country and its extraordinary people. It’s da people, mon.
Warmest regards to you all…
Greg and Barbara
Copyright Greg Allard,2024
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Comments from Cruisers (1)
Winston Fowler- June 12, 2024 - 5:21 pm
Thanks Greg and Barbara for taking the time to document and share some very informative and interesting experiences of people and the islands. I remember in the Sahara Desert getting credit often for the beautiful sunrise colors. Good to see that Bobby has found a partner and a new way to live. Sure bet the locals are enjoying the "fruits" of Bobby's labor….. pun intended "LOL"
Our sincerest thanks to Greg and Barbara Allard for once again sharing their thoughts and beautiful photography from their Bahamas cruises. These photos and descriptions will have you aching to follow in Meander‘s wake! For more of this excellent photography, type Allard in our Homepage search window for letters from previous cruises.
Hello Everyone – More from Eleuthera, and then the first half of a story which goes back well over a decade.
In some cemeteries in the Bahamas people are buried in a sarcophagus like this one, sometimes because there may be a low water table in the ground. In other places, including Bimini, we have seen this custom of painting or putting a permanent photograph of the deceaseds on the tombstone or a sarcophagus. A nice thing.
Bannerman Town is on the remote southeast lower corner of Eleuthera. In the mid 19th century there was a thriving town here. They had shops, homes and cobblestone streets, and a church. The remains of the Episcopalian church, shown above, are hidden in the bush and difficult to find. As best we can tell, it was built around 1850, and this is all that remains of the settlement 175 years later. The reason this much is leftof the church because it was sturdily built of local limestone; the wooden roof is long since gone. Note the exterior stone buttresses.
There is a small settlement of Bannerman nearby, but that is composed of a handful of newer buildings.
Learning about local history in remote parts of the Bahamas is difficult. Finding anything about this church took a significant amount of digging which produced scant information.
The altar at the front of the church proudly remains.
Even the smaller settlements in the Bahamas often have several churches, some of them active or others abandoned. This is St. Luke’s Anglican Church in Rock Sound, on the west coast of Eleuthera. Yes, it is literally on the main road, and a stone’s-throw from the water. I guess in Rock Sound it is difficult for people to say they didn’t go to church because they didn’t know where it was.
Da Beach.
In Waterford, at the Davis Harbour marina, we met Donovan Anderson, born and raised on Eleuthera. What a superb young man – bright, articulate and well educated. He saw we had bought some local pineapples, and he showed his exceptional knowledge of Eleutherian variety, a very special kind of pineapple. More on that in the next Letter. He also taught us how to make a bush-medicine tea for joint pain, by shaving the outer skin, boiling it, and then putting the result through a sieve.
In a small settlement in S. Eleuthera is this “Car Wash.” Not quite the automated version we see in the U.S.
Unfortunately this one is no longer in use and the building abandoned, but several years ago it was active, and the owner made good use of his bucket of water, sponge and chamois.
Rum Cay is a small island in the remote southern Bahamas. The population when we first visited Rum in 2010 was around 69. Today it is less than 60. This photo, below, is from 2011.
There is no deepwater harbour on Rum, but there was this small gem of a marina which made you feel as if you had travelled to the far side of the world. To enter the Sumner Point marina you had to wend your way through a complex path of shallow water strewn with coral heads, some of them just a few inches below the surface – just waiting to bend your propellers or puncture a hole in your boat. A puckering experience….
It was at Rum that we first met the extraordinary, multi-talented owner of the marina, Bobby Little. He is originally from Miami, a high school graduate but better educated than a PhD. He moved to the Bahamas, and soon morphed into a Bahamian. In his youth he was an award-winning skateboarding champion. Besides being a hands-on marina operator (dredging the marina with a backhoe), he is a world class chef, a pilot, and a highly recognized artist, mostly in carving fossilized coral. He has been described as a Renaissance man.
Bobby Little in 2011
We spent many exceptional days there, with Bobby going boat-to-boat asking for ingredients he needed for the evening’s meal. There was always fresh fish, locally caught and creatively done, and most everyone pitched-in around the kitchen work table helping with the prep work. The “club house” was a a beautiful open layout stone building. There was a big bar, and those who did not wish to cook, just drank, and added each drink to the tally on the bar. No one ever failed to enter every last drink.
The bar. Not much fun happening here.
World class fishing and diving, right off shore.
Bobby in the kitchen. The rather large individual to the right of Bobby is Rasta.
Rasta. He’s a Rastafarian. A massive man; he must be almost 6’6” tall, with dreadlocks down to his waist. When he coils the dreadlocks on top of his head, it makes him almost a foot taller. Despite his size he is a kind, gentle giant.
Here’s a story which some of you may remember. Before we left Rum Cay one year, I brought Rasta one of our boat shirts as a gift, and apologized because the biggest we had was a XXL, and knew it wouldn’t fit. He said: “It dunt mattah if da shirt dunt fit; what mattah is dat you taught of Rasta.” We hear that he is either on Cat Cay or in Fort Lauderdale. Like Bobby, Rasta is an outstanding artist, who often also carves in fossilized coral. We have a number of Bobby’s and Rasta’s exceptional pieces.
Bobby and Rasta on the dock at Rum Cay.
Bobby in his ceremonial dress, likely carrying conch shells which he has made into horns, to be traditionally blown with the setting sun.
Being at Rum Cay, as described above, was an almost mystical experience, which unfortunately came to an end. That’s the second part of this story: what happened to Bobby and why the marina no longer exists. And, where is Bobby today and what is he doing?
Cruisers Net publishes Loose Cannon articles with Captain Swanson’s permission in hopes mariners with salt water in their veins will subscribe.. $7 a month or $56 for the year and you may cancel at anytime.
The Greenland ice sheet is melting rapidly, and some scientists worry that the Atlantic current system may be headed for a climate tipping point this century.(Photo by Schiff vor einem Gletscher)
When people think about the risks of climate change, the idea of abrupt changes is pretty scary. Movies like “The Day After Tomorrow” feed that fear, with visions of unimaginable storms and populations fleeing to escape rapidly changing temperatures.
While Hollywood clearly takes liberties with the speed and magnitude of disasters, several recent studies have raised real-world alarms that a crucial ocean current that circulates heat to northern countries might shut down this century, with potentially disastrous consequences.
That scenario has happened in the past, most recently more than 16,000 years ago. However, it relies on Greenland shedding a lot of ice into the ocean.
Our new research, published in the journal Science, suggests that while Greenland is indeed losing huge and worrisome volumes of ice right now, that might not continue for long enough to shut down the current on its own. A closer look at evidence from the past shows why.
Blood and water
The Atlantic current system distributes heat and nutrients on a global scale, much like the human circulatory system distributes heat and nutrients around the body.
Warm water from the tropics circulates northward along the U.S. Atlantic coast before crossing the Atlantic. As some of the warm water evaporates and the surface water cools, it becomes saltier and denser. Denser water sinks, and this colder, denser water circulates back south at depth. The variations in heat and salinity fuel the pumping heart of the system.
If the Atlantic circulation system weakened, it could lead to a world of climate chaos.
Ice sheets are made of fresh water, so the rapid release of icebergs into the Atlantic Ocean can lower the ocean’s salinity and slow the pumping heart. If the surface water is no longer able to sink deep and the circulation collapses, dramatic cooling would likely occur across Europe and North America. Both the Amazon rain forest and Africa’s Sahel region would become dryer, and Antarctica’s warming and melting would accelerate, all in a matter of years to decades.
Today, the Greenland ice sheet is melting rapidly, and some scientists worry that the Atlantic current system may be headed for a climate tipping point this century. But is that worry warranted?
To answer that, we need to look back in time.
A radioactive discovery
In the 1980s, a junior scientist named Hartmut Heinrich and his colleagues extracted a series of deep-sea sediment cores from the ocean floor to study whether nuclear waste could be safely buried in the deep North Atlantic.
Sediment cores contain a history of everything that accumulated on that part of the ocean floor over hundreds of thousands of years. Heinrich found several layers with lots of mineral grains and rock fragments from land.
The sediment grains were too large to have been carried to the middle of the ocean by the wind or ocean currents alone. Heinrich realized they must have been brought there by icebergs, which had picked up the rock and mineral when the icebergs were still part of glaciers on land.
The layers with the most rock and mineral debris, from a time when the icebergs must have come out in force, coincided with severe weakening of the Atlantic current system. Those periods are now known as Heinrich events.
As paleoclimate scientists, we use natural records such as sediment cores to understand the past. By measuring uranium isotopes in the sediments, we were able to determine the deposition rate of sediments dropped by icebergs. The amount of debris allowed us to estimate how much fresh water those icebergs added to the ocean and compare it with today to assess whether history might repeat itself in the near future.
Why a shutdown isn’t likely soon
So, is the Atlantic current system headed for a climate tipping point because of Greenland melting? We think it’s unlikely in the coming decades.
While Greenland is losing huge volumes of ice right now – worryingly comparable to a midrange Heinrich event – the ice loss will likely not continue for long enough to shut down the current on its own.
Icebergs are much more effective at disrupting the current than meltwater from land, in part because icebergs can carry fresh water directly out to the locations where the current sinks. Future warming, however, will force the Greenland ice sheet to recede away from the coast too soon to deliver enough fresh water by iceberg.
Greenland’s ice loss, measured from the Grace and Grace-FO satellites. NASA
The strength of the Atlantic Meridional Overturning Circulation, or AMOC, is projected to decline 24% to 39% by 2100. By then, Greenland’s iceberg formation will be closer to the weakest Heinrich events of the past. Heinrich events, in contrast, lasted 200 years or so.
Instead of icebergs, meltwater pouring into the Atlantic at the island’s edge is projected to become the leading cause of Greenland’s thinning. Meltwater still sends fresh water into the ocean, but it mixes with seawater and tends to move along the coast rather than directly freshening the open ocean as drifting icebergs do.
That doesn’t mean the current isn’t at risk
The future trajectory of the Atlantic current system will likely be determined by a combination of the decelerating but more effective icebergs and the accelerating but less influential surface runoff. That will be compounded by rising ocean surface temperatures that could further slow the current.
So, the Earth’s pumping heart could still be at risk, but history suggests that the risk is not as imminent as some people fear.
In “The Day After Tomorrow,” a slowdown of the Atlantic current system froze New York City. Based on our research, we may take some comfort in knowing that such a scenario is unlikely in our lifetimes. Nevertheless, robust efforts to stop climate change remain necessary to ensure the protection of future generations.
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Our sincerest thanks to Greg and Barbara Allard for once again sharing their thoughts and beautiful photography from their Bahamas cruises. These photos and descriptions will have you aching to follow in Meander‘s wake! For more of this excellent photography, type Allard in our Homepage search window for letters from previous cruises.
A few more pictures from Spanish Wells.
The beautiful beach at the western end of Spanish Wells, complete with in-the-water swings.
Boats kept in salt water need to have their bottoms periodically cleaned of marine growth. Since we had been cruising for over three months, we hired this diver who did an excellent job. His name is Ivanhoe Sweeting, and there are many “Sweetings” on Spanish Wells. He is 49 years old, a native of the Cay, and had been a commercial lobster fisherman. That work is exhausting, so he took up local day-fishing where he would not have to be out at sea for months at a time. And of course he works as a diver.
Every other Saturday on Spanish Wells there is a Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market. This friendly gentleman is “Farmer Kieth Kelly”, also a native of the Cay. He had some beautiful vegetables which we bought, since fresh produce is sometimes difficult to find in the Bahamas.
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This photo was taken by our friends Steve and Diane Koch, of a SpaceX launch a couple of weeks ago. We missed it, as we were already asleep. The Bahamas are downwind of most of Musk’s satellite launches, so on a clear night the view of the rocket is superb as it passes overhead.
Virtually every home on Spanish Wells, and on most other Bahamian islands, grows bananas. There are many varieties. All very good.
The name Spanish Wells come from the Spanish sailing fleets which regularly stopped there for the abundant supply of fresh water.
Ephasia, a Haitian girl, who lives in the ghetto on Russell Island. We picked her up in our golf cart as she was walking four miles to work on a brutally hot day. She works at Wreckers restaurant, at our marina. Spoke almost no English.
Russell Cay is adjacent to Spanish Wells, and is connected by a bridge. There is a significant Haitian community on Russell, living quite poorly. We were in a golf cart on Russell, heading back to our boat, when we passed this Haitian woman walking towards Spanish Wells. It was a sweltering hot day, and she looked exhausted, so when we offered her a ride she was relieved and thankful. She hardly spoke any English, but we did learn her name is Efhasia (phonetic), and that she worked at the restaurant at our marina, so we were all going to the same place.
Storm on the horizon.
A sportfishing boat docked near us came back from their trip with this 85 pound yellow fin tuna. At $20 a pound for fresh fish like this, it was a worthwhile catch.
On the next leg of our cruise, on the way to Davis Harbour on southern Eleuthera, we laid over for a night at Highbourne Cay, and watched the (mostly) nurse sharks who hang out near the fish cleaning stations waiting for scraps.
Davis Harbour, on the southern end of Eleuthera, is a time-warp of an old Bahamas marina. Our boat is on the far side of the protected marina, just off the right side of the building with the white roof. Not many boats come here, as it doesn’t have many of the conveniences of a high-end marina, such as a pool, and the entrance is shallow (thanks to Dorian.) But it does have a superb restaurant called Northpoint. It’s a simple, unpretentious restaurant: about eight tables with blue tablecloths in a square small room overlooking the marina.
The restaurant did a wonderful job on my favorite Bahamian dish, cracked conch.
Our regular waitress at the restaurant; her name is Addassah Griffin. A superb server and a nice person with a sparkling personality. She is studying phlebotomy.
The coconut shrimp at the Northpoint. None finer…anywhere. With friend plantains and Bahamian mac and cheese.
The picturesque shallow cut into the marina. Based on our unscientific measurements, we estimated the low tide depth in the entrance channel to be around 5’+/-. Of course winds, the current stage of the moon and offshore storms may lower that. Deeper draft boats should wait for a higher rising tide.
Next time, more on southern Eleuthera, including a visit with one of the most accomplished and intriguing persons we have ever met in the Bahamas.
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