Inlet Trivia for the Holiday

Doom for Confederate Hopes and Pirates, Too

Peter Swanson Jul 3

Okay, its Fourth of July weekend, so the theme of this Loose Cannon installment is light and playful: Trivia related to various inlets along the Atlantic Coast from Virginia to the Florida border. I was digging for something in my archives, and I found historical summaries written over a decade ago but never published.

Not all inlets are mentioned, and Charleston is omitted altogether because of its historic significance defies pithy summarization. And please do not assume that just because an inlet is included it is recommended for navigation.

Enjoy.

Virginia

Rudee

What is now Rudee Inlet began as a manmade drainage culvert. In 1968, the state created the current inlet, part of a $1 million plan to attract boaters. Now regular dredging is part of a cycle of a system to replenishment sand on the beaches of Virginia Beach. You can often see East Coast Navy SEAL teams launching boats for training exercises here.

North Carolina

Oregon

In 1873 Congress approved and appropriated funds for the building of 29 lifesaving stations, one of which was the Bodie Island Station, located on the south side of Oregon Inlet. In 1883, the station on the north side of Oregon Inlet (also known as Tommy’s Hummock) was officially named the Bodie Island Station and the “old” Bodie Island Station (south of the inlet) was renamed as the Oregon Inlet Station. These are the antecedents to the current Coast Guard Station on Bodie.

Hatteras

The first Hatteras Inlet was formed south of the current inlet, but closed around 1764. The modern Hatteras Inlet was formed on September 7, 1846 by a violent gale. This was the same storm that opened present-day Oregon Inlet to the north. This became a profitable inlet, because it gave the Inner Banks,  a quicker and easier way to travel to and from the Gulf Stream. It was easier to come into this inlet from the north.

Because of the increase of commerce, Hatteras Village Post Office was established in 1858. The initial invasion of the North Carolina coast, on Hatteras Island, during the Civil War called Battle of Hatteras Inlet Batteries came from Hatteras Inlet. The two Confederate forts guarding the inlet quickly fell. The Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum is  also located here. Need we say more?

Ocracoke

The residents of this area have stoutly resisted modernization and change and a visit here is very much a trip back to the way it used to be. Ocracoke is part of the area known as the Graveyard of the Atlantic, due to the many shipwrecks over the centuries—more than 600, according to some sources.

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 Lookout Bight/Barden’s

Home to whalers and Spanish privateers in the 18th century, Cape Lookout Bight is the location of the distinctively diamond patterned Cape Lookout Lighthouse. The wreck of the schooner Chrissie Wright occurred here on Lookout Shoals, where the entire crew but the cook perished in view of shore, rescuers unable to reach them until the next day due to the large breakers.

Beaufort

Pirate Edward Teach, popularly known as Blackbeard, lost his ship Queen Ann’s Revenge in 1718 after running aground at Beaufort Inlet. There is a fascinating multimedia display at the Beaufort Maritime Museum on his story, and the continuing excavation of his vessel. Blackbeard was later killed by naval forces off Ocracoke, but his head came home through Beaufort inlet, hanging on the bowsprit of the ship which captured him.

Mason

In March 2002, Mason inlet was cut through at a location about 3,500 feet northeast of what was then Mason Inlet. A week after the successful opening of the new inlet, the old Mason Inlet was closed. This engineering work, sponsored by local interests, was in response to the southward migration of Mason Inlet over the years to the point were it was threatening to undermine the Shell Island Resort and community to the south.

Masonboro

In November 1862, Union warships forced blockade running British schooner F.W. Pindar aground at the inlet, and sent a boat crew to destroy the vessel. The boat swamped and the crew was captured after successfully firing the schooner. In the same month, the Union Navy ran the British bark Sophia aground and destroyed her near the inlet as well.

Carolina Beach

Shoaling closed the original inlet in the early 1900s. It was blasted open again with explosives in 1952. In 2007, $1.2 million in federal funds were allocated for dredging Carolina Beach Inlet.

Cape Fear River

Cape Fear’s moniker comes from the fearsome Frying Pan Shoals offshore. This area marks the southern border of the Graveyard of the Atlantic. Bald Head Lighthouse, long known as “Old Baldy,” was North Carolina’s first lighthouse, dating back to 1796. Legendary 19th century singlehander Joshua Slocum came ashore in this region while returning from South America in a small vessel he built and wrote about in his book “Voyage of the Liberdade.”

Lockwood’s Folly

 Lockwoods Folly Inlet was the scene of several Civil War confrontations. In an area noted as the Cape Fear Civil War Shipwreck District (shown here from a U.S. Army Corps survey chart), which crosses the inlet itself, are found the wrecks of Lisa Marie, Elizabeth, Iron Age and Bendigo. The name ‘Lockwood’s Folly’ came about when a certain Mr. Lockwood built himself a boat, which happened to have draft too great to transit the inlet. Some things haven’t changed. 

Shallotte

The entire coastal area was a hotspot of activity during the Civil War. The Union gunship Penobscot, at 158 feet and 10-foot 6-inch draft, destroyed her first Confederate vessel, the schooner Sereta, which went aground and was abandoned off Shallotte Inlet in June 1862. In November, the Penobscot forced the British ship Pathfinder aground at Shallotte Inlet, then destroyed her. Penobscot was known as the “90-day gunship” for the length of time it took to build her.

South Carolina

Little River Inlet

 Because of the marshes surrounding Little River, the area received little land traffic until roads were built in the 1920s. Along with the safety afforded by the harbor, it thus became somewhat of a haven for pirates and smugglers. Following the arrival of some ‘northerners’ after the War of 1812, the town was known as “Yankee Town,” certainly not a name fondly accepted by those born there.

Murrells Inlet

Close by Murrells Inlet lies Drunken Jack Island—and Drunken Jack. Legend has it that a pirate was accidentally marooned with nothing but a supply of rum. When the ship finally returned, all they found were empty bottles of rum, and the bones of poor Jack. The island is also another of those reputed to contain Blackbeard’s treasure.

Winyah Bay

The first Europeans to settle the banks of Winyah Bay were actually the Spanish, but after failing as farmers, they built a ship from the towering cypress and oak trees lining the swamps, and sailed off to the Spice Islands of the Caribbean, where there was a ready market for their slaves.

Stono River

Union naval forces controlled the Stono River during the Civil War, but got their comeuppance when a Confedate artillery unit set up on the banks by cover of darkness, bombarded a Union warship and forced her officers to row ashore to surrender.

North Edisto River

The North Edisto River inlet was often used as a back door for Union vessels to attack Charleston, as any vessel proceeding through the Charleston inlet was a sitting duck, unable to return fire with while inbound with Fort Moultrie forward of the alignment of her guns.

St. Helena Sound

St. Helena Island is considered the center of African American Gullah culture and is also the site of several forts which have been extensively excavated. During the Civil War, Fort Walker fell early, leading to the capture of Port Royal. The slaves were freed and measures, including land grants, were undertaken to assist them. Black history is such a powerful force in this area that those supporting the Gullah culture have been able to prevent the building of condos and gated communities on St. Helena Island.

New River Entrance

Camp Lejeune is located nearby and one will often see Marines on exercises. Kids will be thrilled as they roar by in their inflatable vessels, complete with weaponry, or operating tanks on the east side of the ICW or artillery towed behind trucks. Skippers knowing that this gear constitutes targets for shooting exercises may be a little less sanguine about them.

Port Royal Sound

Most mariners are aware that the Parris Island Marine Corps base is here. What most won’t know is that Cat Island, at the anchorage at Mile 544, was at one time a nudist colony. Hilton Head Island was at one time a prominent outpost of the Gullah community. (The nudist colony closed prior to World War II in case you were wondering!) 

Calibogue Sound

This entire area was fought over by the Spanish, French and British for years, and the coast was a favorite hunting ground for pirates, including Blackbeard. The area is noted for its Gullah heritage. Today, most of the coast is a major resort region, with golf on Hilton Head Island. being one of the biggest draws. The red-striped replica lighthouse at Harbortown Yacht Basin is one of the most photographed sights on the Waterway.

Georgia

Savannah River

This entire area was fought over by the Spanish, French and British for years, and the coast was a favorite hunting ground for pirates, including Blackbeard. The area is noted for its Gullah heritage. Colonial Savannah, an early “planned city” (by Gen. James Oglethorpe), is regarded as one of the most beautiful in the United States.

Wassaw Sound

Thunderbolt was supposedly named after a lighting bolt struck there, creating a spring and giving native Americans a reason to settle there.

Ossaba Sound

Archeological evidence indicates Ossabaw Island has been inhabited for 4,000 years. During the last century it was a hunting retreat and then, a privately held scholarly and artistic retreat. When the owners could no longer subsidize the cost, they sold the island to the state of Georgia, thus preserving its natural beauty for the enjoyment of future generations.

St. Catherines Sound

A Spanish fort dating from 1566 was built on St. Catherines Island, which General Sherman awarded to freed slaves after the Civil war along with Ossabaw and Sapelo islands. This state of affairs lasted for two years, after which the island was returned to its former owner, and the new residents relocated to the Georgia mainland. An 1893 hurricane covered the entire island in water. Only one person survived.

Sapelo Sound

Sapelo Island’s ownership makes for a fascinating story. Fleeing revolution at home, a syndicate of French nobles purchased it in 1790, followed by a Danish sea captain, then a planter who was the only one who ever managed to make a profit from the island’s soil. In the 20th century, an excutive of the Hudson Motorcar Company, took possession, but the Crash of ’29 forced him to sell to R.J. Reynolds of tobacco fame. In 1969, Reynold’s widow donated part of it to the state of Georgia for a wildlife refuge. Now the entire island has protected status under government ownership.

Doboy Sound

Cruisers using this inlet may well notice mounds of large rocks not native to the area, particularly on Commodore Island. These are ballast stones from tallships which used these waters in past centuries, tossed overboard to lighten them so they could navigate the shallower waters upstream with their cargoes.

St. Simons Sound

Originally built in 1808, St. Simons lighthouse was torn down by Confederate forces in 1862 and replaced in 1872. In 1953, the oil lamps were replaced by a Fresnel lens and the 106 foot structure can be climbed. The view is worth the effort.

St. Andrews Sound

The lighthouse on Little Cumberland Island operated from 1838 until its deactivation in 1915. The keeper’s house was destroyed by fire in 1968.

St. Mary’s Inlet

Fernandina Beach on the Florida side was founded by Union soldiers, who returned there after having occupied Amelia Island during the war; they were drawn to the area’s climate and natural beauty. That may explain why the city’s downtown resembles a 19th Century New England town.

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