We’ve all had situations like this and it’s why the old salts recommend carrying two different style anchors, such as a CQR along with a Danforth, as well as a good length of chain on your rode. Railroad Bridge Anchorage is just on the outskirts of Elizabeth City, NC.
I tried for well over an hour at multiple spots and could not get my Danforth to hold anywhere in this anchorage.
Capt. Gary Riddick
An excellent suggestion from one of the leading authorities on the AICW. This recommendation should also work south of Deep Creek Lock in the Virginia portion of the Dismal Swamp Canal. Thank you John!
My choice would be to get inside the Dismal Swamp Canal past the first lock {South Mills Lock, mile 33.2}. Then you don’t have to worry about storm surge, just the wind and there would be no fetch.
John Kettlewell, Editor of The Intracoastal Waterway Chartbook
Click Here To View Other Suggestions on Hurricane Holes in NC
Captain Ted continues his northbound voyage through the Great Dismal Swamp Canal in North Carolina to Norfolk, Virginia.
We took our time getting away from the NC Welcome Center, leaving a boat card for Penny Leary-Smith, the center’s director whom Ted has known since it opened 21 years ago (he was at the dedication). We almost never get to see Penny, but soon after he left the card, she came hurrying down the path to the dock. It was a grand but brief reunion. Ted insisted on taking her photo to commemorate the occasion.
Our day on the canal was marred only by the presence of the pesky yellow flies which ignored the drier sheets and insisted on biting our legs, which still itch 24 hours later (and after a much needed shower ashore).
The Dismal Swamp Canal is dead straight for 11 miles to a slight jog, then dead straight for the next 11 miles. It parallels Route 17, a busy four-lane highway, but the traffic is barely perceptible on the canal, screened by trees, and the sound drowned out by one’s own engine. Part of the old, two lane, Route 17 in Virginia has been renamed `Dismal Swamp Road’ and is now a path restricted for bicyclists and pedestrians.
We were passed through the highway bridge and into the lock as we arrived at Deep Creek, and soon were winding the last miles of the Dismal Swamp route, joining with the main waterway at the Route 17 high rise bridge. We just missed a opening of the Gilmerton Bridge, so had to wait for motor vehicle traffic to simmer down before we were given passage. Happily, there was no rail traffic on the adjacent railroad bridge which can delay one for a long time while the train crew makes up its train and departs. More happiness: the Jordan Bridge has been removed so apart from railroad lift bridges ~ normally open ~ Gilmerton Bridge is the only restriction in this part of Norfolk Harbor.
We took on fuel, had our holding tank pumped, and took on ice at Tidewater Marine in Portsmouth adjacent to Hospital Point and the `mile 0’ ICW marker, and there we spent the night.
Captain Ted Jones
Captain Ted’s Log gives us a vivid description of his travels – and travails – from Elizabeth City northward through the Dismal Swamp Canal. Elizabeth City is A SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR
The Dismal Swamp Canal is one of the masterpieces of the Atlantic Intracoastal Water Way. For one thing, it is not particularly liked by power boaters, as the entire 22 miles is a no wake zone and they can make better time on the alternative Virginia Cut Route. Another thing they don’t like about the Dismal Swamp Canal is the snags which are numerous but mostly harmless to slow moving sailboats. Those who appreciate this canal like to travel slowly and smell the roses, so to speak.
We had hoped to make it to Norfolk/Portsmouth in one day from Elizabeth City, but the three hours plus from Elizabeth City to South Mills lock and the published lock schedules would have made it impossible for us to get there in time for the fireworks. Neither could we have stayed in Elizabeth City to watch theirs as we are in a swivet to get north so Ted can make his VA appointment in Vermont on July 12th. So onward we pushed. Little did we know that the published lock schedules are only for restricted times. We found that both locks opened for us upon arrival and locked us through all alone.
Immediately after you leave the Elizabeth City docks, you pass under the draw bridge and begin winding your way up the Pasquotank River to the South Mills lock at the southern end of the Dismal Swamp Canal. It is a long, circuitous route which took us a little over three hours to cover. At times the compass indicates that one is headed south of west. at others… well, it is easy to lose track. From the Elizabeth City bridge, where the Pasquotank is wide and deep, the river gradually narrows and splits several times. The U.S. Army Corps of engineers has placed green channel markers in several places to mark the route, and at the last fork before reaching South Mills, a discreet sign with an arrow removes any ambiguity. However, we came to an apparent impasse well up the river and had to back down hard to stop and figure it out. There was no apparent passage through the jungle, but we found it around the corner. Thereafter, we maintained a leisurely pace of 4.5 knots instead of 5.8 knots.
To meander thus into an ever narrowing, winding river is fascinating. Here you are miles from the ocean in an ocean capable sailboat wondering if you will ever get there or if you have made some mistake and taken a wrong path. If our sailboat had conventional rigging, the upper shrouds would surely have fouled an overhanging branch, and even our mizzen backstays brushed a leaf or two. Don’t take our word for it; have a look at the photos Ted took.
Although we were way early for the 1500 scheduled locking, we were locked through (alone) soon after we arrived at the lock. We would still be too late to make the last lock at Deep Creek, so we stayed overnight at the NC welcome station which is the only such facility which caters to both motorists (and truckers) and boats. We were the only boat.
The friendly ladies at the welcome center gave us several dryer sheets which they said would keep the yellow flies away. We can’t say that they did: another insect repellent myth tested and rejected, but we appreciated the thought and effort. We were told that the local baseball players could not play without them. Perhaps the flies have become used to the repellent. We found that the `moscaswatta’ Jack Wisner had given Ted was very effective in dispatching the little yellow buggers. Jack grew up in Argentina which is a hint as to the derivation of `moscaswatta,’ a bastardization of Spanish and colloquial American.
Captain Ted Jones
Boy, how can Elizabeth City continue to do even MORE for the cruising community. I don’t know, but they keep on trying.
It’s no accident that Elizabeth City is known as one of the most welcoming ports of call on the entire Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway. The spirit of “Rose Buddie’s” founder, Fred Fearing, lives on. Don’t miss a stop here!
Hi
I wanted to let you know that a local ice company is now offering block ice and’¦they will deliver to our beautiful waterfront! We would love it if you would post this exciting information on your website.
Wright Ice Company
1105 Herrington Road
Elizabeth City, NC 27909
252-335-2697
Please let us know if you have any questions and thanks so much!!!
Susan
The accolades keep rolling in for Elizabeth City, one of the friendliest stops on the entire Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway from Norfolk, VA to Miami, FL. Of course, southbounders will probably visit this charming community only if they choose to cruise the Dismal Swamp Canal Route. Many, including this writer, love this passage, but others find the possible presence of underwater debris an offset to the Dismal’s great ecological beauty!
Cruising News: Hi Claiborne,
Legrace is in Elizabeth City again, this place is as nice and is as boater friendly as always!! We much prefer the Dismal Swamp route over the Virginia Cut and Elizabeth City is just icing on the cake.
Bob & Lynn Williamson
On Legrace in Elizabeth City
Subject: Elizabeth City is still great
Cruising News: We did a recent stop in eliz city and it is still the greatest place to stop – there are a few changes – first food fresh runs a schedule shuttle at 0900,1200, and 1500 – the mgr said he was getting 10 calls a day as cruisers were not coordinating there runs so he had to set a schedule – and he did the right thing
Second the dinner theater unfortunately closed – they are trying to find someone to take it over – admiral patty said if we were not cruising it would be great thing to take over and run
Third in the summer on Tuesday they have outdoor [party] right at Mariners Wharf where we tie up – it is great and a fun time with folks from all over the city coming out
Groupers is providing a tent for the Rose Buddies so thank you Groupers – they do still serve great beer and lastly but sadly but happily – sadly Steve is no longer mayor as he – happily decided to get a boat and join us cruising
Welcome steve to the family – boat is trawler Carolina
Chuck, Patty
SVsoulmates
I wonder how many thousands of boaters have been given the royal welcome by the legendary Rose Buddies. Elizabeth City sets the standard for making cruisers feel at home. Once in the past, because of high winds that kept the Alligator River Bridge closed for several days, my family and I were graciously allowed to stay well beyond the normal limit. Roger and Karen join the ranks of those who sing the praises for the citizens and environs of Elizabeth City.
Submitted on 2010/05/22 at 10:23pm
Several of us opted to take the Dismal Swamp route north so we could experience Elizabeth City and the `Rose Buddies’ that we had heard about on many occasions. We arrived on Fri. night and attended the Rose Buddies welcome complete with beer, wine and snacks and useful information about our stay. Dave gave us good info on the trip north to mm 0 and Steve Atkinson (sp?) the former mayor was exemplary in his welcoming us to his town. We liked what we saw (especially the free dock) and decided to spend an additional day in E city spending cash on restaurants, farmers market and Karen even found a dress for our son’s wedding in Nov at a small boutique near the docks! Elizabeth City is a must stop on the loop. Don’t pass this one by ‘“ it’s a gem.
Captains Roger & Karen Montembeault
aboard m/v Karen Anne,
1986 KK Manatee
Elizabeth City is the Dismal Swamp Canal Route’s only real port of call. This community is well known for its hospitality, as Capt. David relates below, and they are a SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR!.
Claiborne
Perhaps northbound cruisers could use some very recent Elizabeth City information to supplement your excellent comments in your Guide. Betty and I drove (sorry about that) to Elizabeth City on April 19 and we stayed at the Elizabeth City B&B (252 338 2177) a 5 minute walk from the docks. It is a late 19th century house. Ray and Maureen were excellent hosts-wine in the courtyard and a fantastic breakfast. We had a good lunch at the Cyprus Creek Cafe just across the street from the docks and great fish dinners at Logan Raye’s Key West Grill on Colonial Avenue. The latter has a local atmosphere. The Visitors’ Center has a good walking map with descriptions of the local buildings. The new Museum of the Albemarle that can be seen to the left of the docks is a must visit. It just opened and has excellent exhibits of the history of the area and the Outer Banks. This could easily take half of a day.
Lamb’s Marine is well maintained. Larry sends his regards.
David Hughes
Expedition
Ditto. Stayed at Pelican Marina last Thursday and Friday nights. Marina just fair but priced right. The town is to be experienced. Very cruiser friendly locals, walkable town with a good variety of dining.
BTW, got thumped 8 times in the ditch.
Best marina so far in the AICW is Port Royal Landing Marina. Port Royal, SC
M/V Into The Mystic, currently lying St. Michaels, MD
Click Here To View the Cruisers’ Net’s North Carolina Marina Directory Listing For Lamb’s Marine
Click Here To View the Cruisers’ Net’s North Carolina Marina Directory Listing For Pelican Marina
What else can I say about Elizabeth City except that it is one of the friendliest port of call from Maine to Key West. And, the city is a SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR!
Dear Mr. Young,
My family and I aboard S-V Whirling Dervish docked at the city docks in Elizabeth City on our trip south after exiting the Dismal Swamp. WOW, what a welcoming place! Every cruiser coming through the Dismal Swamp should stop at the free city docks and enjoy this town!
Paul Dolan & Family
SV Whirling Dervish
November 1, 2009
The discussion below is copied from the T&T (Trawlers and Trawlering) mailing list. As there are so many contributions, it’s impractical to get individual permissions, so I’m just using first names.
I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again. The alternate AICW Dismal Swamp Canal route is a great choice for slow moving craft, not in an hurry. Of course, you can sometimes encounter sunken debris, but the historical and ecological cruising offered by the Dismal is, in my opinion, more than worth it.
I can’t tell you about the water level but if you’ve never done the Dismal Swamp, you are in for a treat. Take it slow to avoid kicking up deadheads and enjoy the scenery. Stop for the night at the NC Visitor’s Center. If Karen enjoyed saying Peeankatank she will have fun with Pasquotank as well. It is one of the most beautiful stretches of river along the ICW. Elizabeth City is one of our mostest bestest favoritest places to stop. The grocery store will pick Karen up and drop her back off in their van when she goes to replenish your ice cream supply. Find the Colonial Diner for some good ol’ down home southern comfort food.
Regards,
Randy
MORNING STAR
It is a gorgeous run (I did the Carolina Loop this summer). Two locks and a few bridges. Stay in the clear when in the narrow part of the ditch or the overhanging tress will snap your antenna (personal experience!). Good Mexican place right on the canal just south of last lock and bridge. Eliz City very nice and accommodating. Rose Buddies are famous, but docks are first come first serve.
Jim
We just came through the Swamp in the last two days. It is a lovely and relaxing trip. Plenty of water but keep an eye out for snags.
The entire trip is a no-wake zone.
Stop at the free dock at the North Carolina Visitors’ Center. Expect to raft with other snowbirders. No electricity, but water is available at the north corner of the dock and people connect hoses to reach where needed. The ladies in the Center are tremendously helpful and knowledgeable.
Stop overnight at the Elizabeth City free dock or the bulkhead at the park for catamarans or anyone else if the regular docks are full. The local grocery will pick you up and bring you back. An easy walk to a Laundromat. All kinds of restaurants including a dinner movie theatre. For 5 or more boats, the city is still holding a Rose Buddy Party – wine and beer and chips on the dock and some good camaraderie.
Allen
Randy is right; Dismal Swamp route is exquisite. No go fast boats, and no wakes. In the cut canals, there are some dead heads lying on the bottom. They’re easy to avoid. To avoid them, travel slowly, and mind your separation with other vessels. This time of year, you’ll probably be traveling with other boats. Leave several hundred feet of space between you and the vessel you’re following, less for sail boats because their props are smaller and higher than the trawlers and cruisers.
Peg and Jim aboard Sanctuary
The laudatory postings from cruisers stopping at Elizabeth City, and tying up to the free (for 48 hours) city owned and operated Mariners Wharf docks, just keep on coming. If you choose to “do the Dismal,” don’t dare miss a stop in Elizabeth City, not the least reason for which is that these guys are a SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR!
Mile 50.9 – Elizabeth City. Another example of the well known hospitality of dockeepers Sam and Doug and others helping to welcome boaters. My Chinese motor scooter had suddenly stopped working – an emergency in my book since I have found it so useful for getting to grocery stores. Having determined it was an ignition coil failure, Susan Hartley of the Welcome Bureau not only ran me some 8 miles to only scooter store in town – but waited there as we tried to find a replacement part and ran me back! Fitted the new coil, paid the $50, pressed the button – Bingo! – I was back in business at 45mph and 126 mpg……..
The Farm Fresh grocery store will still pick you up and take you back – but the week before some boater got the service but bought only a single pack of cigarettes! Now that’s just not fair folks! Great showers at the Fitness Center – $2 but well worth it. The nearby coffee shop sells a great Reuben sandwich. It’s hard to beat Elizabeth City for a free 2 or 3 day dockage.
Arnold
I am sorry to hear that there was someone abusing the wonderful service of the Fresh Farm Store. However I can say that on the 15th several of the Firstmates more than made up for that. Ken from Fresh Farm picked up 4 of us and we filled up his trunk with all of our provisions. The downtown area is lovely but saddly many storefronts and buildings are vacant. In my hometown of Portland, Maine, waterfront property like that is prime territory.
Joanne
Lambs Marina is a small facility, located a few miles north of Elizabeth City, off the AICW Dismal Swamp Alternate Route/Pasquotank River. Its dockage basin is well sheltered, and they offer the only fuel now available on the North Carolina portion of the Dismal passage. There is also a welcome fresh seafood market on site.
With high blustery south winds the dockage at Elizabeth City tends to be uncomfortable. So I moved up river to the old NS railroad bridge and moored in nice quiet area just north of the bridge. Unhappily during the night the wind changed and thus the current with it and I drifted some 200 yards before my anchor snagged on a sunken log. I had to cut it loose in the morning. But this mishap was much compensated by the friendly reception of owners Larry and Georgia Lamb, who built this marina years ago and really know how to meet the needs of boaters. Larry even ran me to a store in Elizabeth City to get parts – and kindly offered me an old style anchor as a spare, which I turned down not wishing to be a pest. This marina has everything – propane, low cost fuel, a monthly slip rate of only $3.50 a ft and an equally low transient rate for boats with less than 6ft draft. There is a great little local restaurant nearby – and a fresh fish and bait store. So here’s to you Larry and Georgia – may you last forever!
Arnold
Click Here To View the North Carolina Cruisers’ Net Marina Directory Listing For Lambs Marina
The excellent report below from Captains Sonny and Nancy is NOT a surprise to this writer. Seldom will cruisers ever find a more welcoming port of call than Elizabeth City. And, these good people are a SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR!
Hello, Mr. Young,
My wife and I recently cruised up to Virginia from Florida. Our route north included taking the Virginia cut in lieu of the Dismal Swamp Canal route. On our return, however, some fellow cruisers told us it would behoove us to take the Dismal Swamp and make a stop in Elizabeth City, NC. They said the city is boater friendly and we should have an enjoyable visit.
We followed their advice and took the Dismal Swamp route, arriving in Elizabeth City on Monday night, September 14th. We met two other cruisers at the Visitors Center on the Dismal Swamp canal and arrived with them at Elizabeth City simultaneously. We checked in with the tourism center and were given a rousing welcome. They catered to our every need, including offers for rides to grocery stores. laundromats, to purchase ice and pretty much anything else we needed. The dockage was COMPLIMENTARY and they also provided Wi Fi computer service. Later in the day, a representative came by each boat and advised that they were hosting a wine and cheese reception for the visiting boaters. We decided to attend and were greeted by a member of the “Rosebuddies”. This is a group that was started many years ago for the purpose of making cruising boaters feel welcome in Elizabeth City. Part of the reception was giving a rose to each female member of a boating party. In addition, the Mayor of the city was in attendance at the reception and made it a point to greet each boat owner and their respective families personally. I don’t believe I have ever visited another town anywhere in the United States in a boat and had the mayor come out and greet us. Mayor Steven Atkinson told us about the many services and programs that are available to us cruisers as well as their many attractions, especially the Albemarle Museum. Lastly, the rosebuddy who spoke to us advised us on additional areas of interest to boaters together with local knowledge of the water which enabled some of us to shorten travel time and several miles on our way south after leaving Elizabeth City.
I have to say that as one who has been cruising for over twenty years, never have we been received so warmly as we were in this small town waterfront town in North Carolina. They are currently promoting “The Carolina Loop” for people in North Carolina, Virginia, and other areas. They have a brochure on their website that provides a detailed explanation of the trip.
I am sure you have probably been made aware of this city, however, I felt I would be remiss in my duty as a fellow cruiser if I did not tell you what a great time we had on our visit. My wife Nancy and I would highly recommend spending time there. Also, we wish to congratulate Elizabeth City Tourism on the splendid job they did making all of us cruisers feel welcome. We will visit this charming city again.
Arlington(Sonny) and Nancy Lambert
S/V Sonrae 79 CSY 33 Hull #10
Fleming Island, FL
Click Here For The Cruisers’ Net’s North Carolina Marina Directory Listing For Pelican Marina
Well, this is a new one on me. I have never before heard of spending the night on “the small wall by the Deep Creek Bridge.” Of course, this spot is in Virginia, and a little bit out of my area of expertise, but, hey, that doesn’t mean a thing since it appears this is a good place for cruising craft and their crews to berth!
We now skip the delightful Visitors Center because we love stopping at the small wall by the Deep Creek bridge (just south of the lock on the east side). La Familia Restaurant is must stop for us, just a great family owned local Mexican restaurant. We have stopped there 4 times now, we like it that much. Plus across the street is a nice grocery where we can bring the shopping cart right back to the boat (and always return the cart so the next
boaters can enjoy the same privileges). Robert, one of the lock keepers at Deep Creek is a hoot, if you tie-up at the long docks between the bridge & lock (Elizabeth’s Dock), he has been known to bring pastries by in the
morning!
Bob & Lynn Williamson
On Legrace in the Erie Canal at Spencerport NY (enjoying this weekend’s
canal festival)
We have spent the night at the free dock just south of the Deep Creek Lock. An excellent stop if you catch the last lock of the day heading south. If full, rafting is expected. Quiet and small park for a stroll.
James Lea
We have also enjoyed several overnights at the Deep Creek Bridge. There’s even an auto parts store across the street where we were able to find a radiator hose that was a perfect fit for our Westerbeke 27. La Familia Restaurant is not to be missed; however, when we stopped there last month, we noted a homeless couple living in their car behind the restaurant. We were also approached by a couple of guys who appeared to be checking us out. Be sure to lock up when you leave your boat.
We first encountered Robert at Deep Creek lock 4 or 5 years ago. He not only offered us coffee and pastries, but has also entertained us with his amazing skills on the conch horn. Be sure to check out his conch garden and, if you have one to spare, Robert would be most appreciative. By the way, if you are running late, give Robert a call (757-487-0831) – he very well may hold the lock opening for you if there is no one else waiting. And, as always, `tips are always appreciated’!
Allan DeWall
S/V Cat Rageous, Nonsuch 30U
This is certainly not the first report we have had of crab pots and fish trips littering the waters of northern Albemarle Sound. This time, Captain Chase’s report refers to the waters of “lower Pasquotank River” which is part of the Dismal Swamp Canal Route alternate AICW passage. These pests would certainly make nighttime passage here frought with peril.
I’ve never seen so many pots as lower Pasquatank and up the sound to Little River (early July 09). My full keel seems to miss them and sailed that whole section but do not envy those with exposed props.
Chase
What I wanted to point out has to do with he Pasquotank coming off the Sound. Crab Pots everywhere !!! There was no channel; it was absolutely horrible and remained that way until you reached fresh water toward Elizabeth City. Daylight travel only and extreme caution needed.
Pat Kenefick
On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:
4. Near Statute Mile 43.5 the Dismal Swamp Route/AICW, skirts to the northeast of Goat Island. Many cruisers anchor southwest of this land mass. Who has done this lately? Was it a good experience?
Responses follow:
The anchorage “behind” Goat Island is peaceful…holding is good and protection is excellent….if you’re real lucky and leave early you may get some awesome reflections on your way North or South!
Capt Jock, formerly of DREAM MAKER, presently of HOME AT LAST
Click Here For More Information on the Goat Island Anchorage
On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolna Wish List,” I posed the following question:
2. Along the Dismal Swamp Canal, cruisers will discover the Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Center. You can tie up here overnight free of charge. Who has done this lately? Please describe your experience, and let us know whether you think this is a worthwhile overnight stop.
Responses follow:
The Welcome Center is even better than ever as there is a new Dismal Swamp museum located on the opposite canal bank. Access is provided by an interesting (and clearly very expensive) hydraulically retracted floating bridge. The museum itself is relatively small but provides a comprehensive history of the canal with many illustrative examples. When one views the panel about birds, the sounds of their varied and colorful songs emerge unobtrusively from the background. We stayed one night at the Welcome Center and were happy to become reacquainted with our friend Penny Leary-Smith who has run the the facility from its inception. We are always delighted to stop there whether by car or by boat, and always do.
Our half-dozen sailboats were joined at the welcome center by a 45 foot multi decked power boat. This is unusual, as most power cruisers prefer the Virginia Cut route where they are not limited to 6 knots and where the risk of hitting debris with their screws is less, or so it is believed.
Ted Jones
Enjoyed our overnight stop here very much after the stress of so many bumps along the way. We needed the rest.
Wayne Thomas
The welcome center is rarely crowded and a pleasant and convenient stop…a nice place to meet other folks who are taking a break from the wake-makers!
Capt Jock, formerly of DREAM MAKER, presently of HOME AT LAST
Rafted up after arriving at 2000 after a 60 mile day, welcome respite. Off the dock early to make South Mills first lock so did not get to enjoy welcome center but the restrooms were nice as was the group of cruisers at the dock. The Dismal Swamp is a stressful passage with all the trees, debris and loud bumps but worth doing. It is nice to have afternoon shade from sun with trees though.
Chase
I was a tad dissapointed with the Visitors Center – perhaps expecting too much. But they really don’t have much but a far too small dock and toilets. I spent one night rafted up to another boat which I don’t really like doing but left first thing in the morning. Maybe if they had fuel and water and a small store……..
Best wishes
Arnold Parkinson
The British Club Worldwide
www.britishclubworldwide.com
We stopped and tied up at the rest area for the night on our early June cruise up to Norfolk. We were quite fortunate in that we were able to get into the last open slot along the bulkhead; if I recall there was a total of 4 boats and that’s all. Unfortunately this night was definitely one of the hottest nights so far this summer, so without being able to use the air it was not a great night. The grounds were well kept and clean; rest rooms the same. For one night it is ok and thank goodness it is there as we were exhausted when we reached that point coming from Elizabeth City. Don’t know what we would have done if it had not been there quite frankly
Pat Kenefick
The welcome center was a pleasant overnight stop. We arrived late in the afternoon. The lady at the desk was kind enough to give us a ride up the road to get pizza if we wanted. We declined because we had food on board. We signed the cruisers log they have there
Clif & Peta Lewis
s/v Immanuel
We cruised the Dismal Swamp for 2 days last week spending a night at the Visitor’s Center. The 5 women in there were wonderful!!! We used their book exchange. Their nature center has been open only a year and it is very well done. Wish I knew the ranger’s name at the bridge that crosses the canal to the center, but he was born for that job. He has so much information, can answer all questions, and obviously has a love for what he does.
Bill & Laura Bender
M/VKindred Spirit III
Click Here For More Information on the Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Center
Rafted up after arriving at 2000 after a 60 mile day, welcome respite. Off the dock early to make South Mills first lock so did not get to enjoy welcome center but the restrooms were nice as was the group of cruisers at the dock. The Dismal Swamp is a stressful passage with all the trees, debris and loud bumps but worth doing. It is nice to have afternoon shade from sun with trees though.
On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:
6. Near Statute Mile 50.5, cruisers traveling the Dismal Swamp Canal Route will discover Elizabeth City (A SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR). This community has the enviable reputation of providing one of the warmest welcomes to cruisers to be found anywhere in the Southeastern USA. And, free city docks are in the offing for an overnight stay. Who has stopped in Elizabeth City recently? Could you please describe the welcome you received? Did you find any good restaurants ashore?
Responses follow:
On to Elizabeth City where everything I’ve heard about their fabulous welcome is evident even though Fred Fearing, the last “Rose Buddy” has died. In his place is a granite marker describing the rose buddies and their legacy. Instead, we were greeted by the Elizabeth City mayor himself whoat the traditional wine and cheese party told us about his plans for expanding the services available. He is a boat owner and is a strong advocate for the city docks. He even set to to help late arrivals with their dock lines. A call to the local supermarket brought a courtesy car driven by the store manager himself, and he drove us back to the docks when we had made out purchases. This is one of the most complete supermarkets I have ever been in.
The only negatives about Elizabeth City is the lack of fuel service at the docks. Jack Wisner and I walked a couple of blocks to an automotive filling station and lugged back a six gallon jug of fuel. There presently are no fuel docks in Elizabeth City, and out next available pit stop was Dowry Creek Marina where we later had difficulty fueling from their high speed pump whose nozzle will not fit in most sailboat’s deck plates. The lack of heads and showers is high on the mayor’s list of new services which he feels need to be provided at Elizabeth City.
Ted Jones
As to EC’s hospitality, we cannot overstate how welcome we were made to feel. Even had the Mayor (Stephen Atkinson) come by and introduce himself. We stayed at the city dock, which is free. It was about half full. We went to dinner at a restaurant, Montero’s, named after the owner and chef, who came and picked us up in his car and took us back to the boat when we were through. The food was fine.
Bill & Claudia Bagwell
M/V Runaway
Elizabeth City is always great. When I was there a Canadian owner suggested a pot luck supper which in turn led to a party and singing songs from a variety of countries represented. Dockmasters Sam and Gus are very friendly and will let you stay more than a couple of nights if the docks aren’t full. Good fish restaurant near the dock. laundry withing walking distance and a breat Farm Fresh grocery store who will pick you up and return upon request.
Best wishes
Arnold Parkinson
The British Club Worldwide
www.britishclubworldwide.com
The stay at Elizabeth City was nice. When we arrived coming up the Pasquotank a man on shore took a line for us to help us in the slip. It turned out he was on the boat next to us. He was traveling south on a 40ft. mono [can’t remember what kind] with his wife and a cat. They were french canadian heading to Charleston. They must have liked french poodles because they had the cat shaved that way, Yes they did!
We did not get to experiance the well known welcome of a rose and wine reception. The man who used to do it had passed on. We had breakfast at a little place in town that took you back to old days. We stayed there for 3 days, also the day before we left we met a South African couple who were delivering a 44ft. Knysna catamaran to Annapolis. We developed a relationship because my wife is originally from South Africa. The girls still keep in touch. We enjoyed Elizabeth City for our short stay there.
Clif & Peta Lewis
s/v Immanuel
At Elizabeth City docks, if you’re nice and friendly to the dockmasters, they ‘ll show you two hidden spigots for topping off your water tanks………. No fuel alas – but there is at the marina just south – who also sell block ice
Arnold
Click Here For More Information on Mariner’s Wharf City Docks
On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following quesiton:
1. The alternate Dismal Swamp Canal Route, leading from Virginia to North Carolina waters, is a somewhat controversial passage. Some, like this writer, love this route for its fascinating ecology and history. Others don’t like it due to the possibility of striking floating or semi-submerged debris. Who has cruised the Dismal recently? Did you have a good or bad experience? Please share what you found with our fellow cruisers, and let us know whether or not you recommend this passage to our fellow mariners.
Responses follow:
Hi Claiborne:
The Dismal Swamp Canal route is my favorite. It is always a sweet anomaly to be in the middle of a jungle traveling serenely aboard an ocean capable vessel seemingly light years away from her natural element.
Ocean Gypsy passed southbound on this route last October, and it was perfect. We saw no snags, so no shoal spots on the depth sounder, and there were no mysterious bumping noises indicating an underwater snag. We anchored north of the Deep Creek lock the night before we entered the canal and locked through with half a dozen other sailboats. With the recent (since my last passage) widening and relocation of Route 17 in Virginia, one no longer sees much in the way of vehicular traffic, and I’ve always found that the sound of my boat’s engine masks any noise from the highway even where it closely parallels the canal.
The Welcome Center is even better than ever as there is a new Dismal Swamp museum located on the opposite canal bank. Access is provided by an interesting (and clearly very expensive) hydraulically retracted floating bridge. The museum itself is relatively small but provides a comprehensive history of the canal with many illustrative examples. When one views the panel about birds, the sounds of their varied and colorful songs emerge unobtrusively from the background. We stayed one night at the Welcome Center and were happy to become reacquainted with our friend Penny Leary-Smith who has run the the facility from its inception. We are always delighted to stop there whether by car or by boat, and always do.
Our half-dozen sailboats were joined at the welcome center by a 45 foot multi decked power boat. This is unusual, as most power cruisers prefer the Virginia Cut route where they are not limited to 6 knots and where the risk of hitting debris with their screws is less, or so it is believed.
When the Dismal Swamp Canal is open to traffic (it has to be closed when the level of Lake Drummond reaches a specific low level in conditions of drought) I will always take this route. To me it is the highlight of an ICW passage.
Ted Jones, S/V Ocean Gypsy (Freedom 33 cat ketch)
I have used the Dismal Swamp Route many times…the most recent in May of ’09. I have always found it to be peaceful and a really nice break from the Sport Fisherman and Delivery Captains on the Virginia Cut.
Capt Jock, formerly of DREAM MAKER, presently of HOME AT LAST
It IS a nice passage but I expected a few snags here and there but found DOZENS. I was dodging floating branches constantly and had loud thuds 6-8 times. There was a floating tree under the bridge at Deep Creek but was pointed out to lockmaster by northbound cruisers at the time of my passage so I avoided. I will do this passage again and recommend others do too, but with the caveat that floating debris is VERY prolific or was July 2009. Chase, s/v Anne Freeman (Cape Dory 30)
Chase
Claiborne,
We cruised the Dismal Swamp Canal with another boat, south to Elizabeth City, on July 10th. It was a beautiful day, sunny and dry, with little wind. All the stories about the friendliness of the Deep Creek Lock operator are true, he is very courteous and helpful. We went along at about 5 – 6 knots. Depths were not a problem. We had a minimum of 6′ of water all the way, usually deeper. I lost count of how many times something bumped and hit the hull (or wheel/s) though. We have a twin engine power boat with a keel, but the wheels hang down on each side, unprotected. I was sure I had dinged one of the wheels, maybe both, and was expecting to have picked up some vibration. However, once we reached the Pasquotank and were able to get up on a plane, everything was fine, and we had suffered no damage. I guess the various underwater obstructions and floating objects were soft and came apart on impact. We had never done the Canal before, and are glad we did. It’s beautiful, but also rather tedious at the helm to keep it to the straight and narrow for nearly 4 hours. Traffic was light. We only met 2 or 3 northbound boats the whole way.
Bill & Claudia Bagwell
M/V Runaway
We like traveling the Dismal Swamp & yes you do bump things but you are supposed to be going slow. We had 3 or 4 “hits” between the South Mills lock and the Visitors Center this spring, two of them medium thumps but with a steel hull and protected prop they were not a problem for Legrace. There was a Corp of Engineer barge working the south section when we went through so things could have been “stirred-up” a bit more than usual. North of the Visitors Center to Deep Creek Lock we didn’t bump anything.
Bob & Lynn Williamson
On Legrace in the Erie Canal at Spencerport NY (enjoying this weekend’s
canal festival)
Dismal Swamp June 2009 – I did hit one small log but no big deal really. The upper reaches of the Pamlico are worse.
I enjoyed the experience – plus the Deep Creek Lockeeper Robert who is a very friendly fellow. I spent three peaceful nights at the Elizabeth Dock but on the fourth night was woken up at 4am by my cat yowling as if another cat was around. Then I heard a strange noise on deck – and another. I cautiously peered out my aft cabin hatch – there were two guys ON MY BOAT! I yelled at them to get off immediately or I’d shoot. I don’t actually have a weapon on board but it fortunately scared them and they jumped off and ran away into the night. I think they were teenagers and thought nobody was on the boat. They had already removed a half empty gas can from my dinghy but left it on the dock in their haste to get away! I reported the incident to Robert and he said he would ask the local police to add the dock to their regular night circuit.
Best wishes
Arnold Parkinson
The British Club Worldwide
www.britishclubworldwide.com
We followed this route in early June of this year in our 32ft. sailboat that drafts 4 1/2 ft. Even with 8 ft. of water under us we ran across or hit what I assume were fallen trees 3 times and this definitely more to the center than right or left of center. For us, this was a route that we would not do again; in other words “been there done that “. Most interesting part was going through the locks.
Pat Kenefick
As for the Dismal Swamp, we traveled north to Virgina. For the most part it was a great trip up from Elizabeth City. It was a little scary because we were new at this thing called cruising. We draw a little less than 3 ft. so we thought we would be all right. I found it easy to navigate w/ the Maptech charts I had, also the same charts on CD were loaded on our laptop. That helped a lot with giving us real time location. However there were times when we saw fixed debris in the cut and just crossed our fingers. Fortunatly with a cat we straddled some of these hazards. There was one time though, I felt we needed to go around a stump and the boat raised up as we went over what seemed to be a submerged rotten log. The boat rolled over it without damage to anything underneath. Going through the locks was a fun experiance. One of the lockmasters played a tune on a seashell for us while we waited.
Clif & Peta Lewis
s/v Immanuel
The 1st day was great but the 2nd day’¦not so good. We hit 6 different ‘˜things’ that never showed from the surface. When you think of the intolerable conditions under which the canal was dug, offers and added appreciation of the privilege of cruising through there. Probably we won’t do that again, either, simply b/c of hitting objects—that’s always a nerve-wracking sound.
Bill & Laura Bender
M/VKindred Spirit III
It IS a nice passage but I expected a few snags here and there but found DOZENS. I was dodging floating branches constantly and had loud thuds 6-8 times. There was a floating tree under the bridge at Deep Creek but was pointed out to lockmaster by northbound cruisers at the time of my passage so I avoided. I will do this passage again and recommend others do too, but with the caveat that floating debris is VERY prolific or was July 2009. Chase, s/v Anne Freeman (Cape Dory 30)
There have been many postings and discussions about the good and bad point of cruising the alternate AICW Dismal Swamp Canal Route, from North Carolina to VA, or the other way around. The exchange below, which is copied from the AGLCA mailing list, centers around height restrictions.
Planning to head south via the Dismal Swamp….has anyone come up recently with a sportfish with outriggers. We are concerned that we may not have the height clearance needed.
I’d appreciate hearing if someone actually has done it.
Thanks in advance,
Dave Schafer
SeaQuestered
We came through the DS in April. Only remember the bridges at the locks, which are raised after you go through the locks. Our height is 18 ft. We did not have any problems.
Larry and Christine Hayden
BlueSkies
You won’t have any height problems. The primary use of the canal is by trawlers and sailboats, because the entire length of the canal is a 6 mph speed zone, there’s no passing room, and the locks at both ends are restricted to a max of 4 times daily. That said, I doubt your outriggers are higher than sailboat masts. If they are, your problem will be beam at the outriggers, not height. The canopy (mix of pine and desiduous) in the canal varies vertically from about 20′ to about 120′, and it’s horozontal clearance between the banks of the canal is in the range of 20′ in places.
Jim
Peg and Jim Healy aboard Sanctuary,
I think what Captain Jon means by “only one marina” in his note below, is really only one fuel stop. There are actually two marinas, one city dock, and the Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Center, along the alternate AICW Dismal Swamp Route. Only one of these, however, Lambs Marina, sells fuel.
There are several issues with the Route 2 that people are missing. First there is only one marina left between the Aligator River and where route 1 $ 2 merge in VA, and that is a MM 42. with restrictions (max lengh 42 feet, max draft 5 feet) it is located up a small narrow, shallow canal. Also the bridge in Elizabeth city has a 12 vert clearence, and will open on request if traffic is light but not during rush hours. Also, if you need sheltered anchorage stay north of MM48. In Elizabeth City the city dock and Pelician marina are not sheltered and with a south or west wind plan on getting beat up. there are no safe anchors south of the Elizabeth city Bridge
Jon
There are several issues with the Route 2 that people are missing. First there is only one marina left between the Aligator River and where route 1 $ 2 merge in VA, and that is a MM 42. with restrictions (max lengh 42 feet, max draft 5 feet) it is located up a small narrow, shallow canal. Also the bridge in Elizabeth city has a 12 vert clearence, and will open on request if traffic is light but not during rush hours. Also, if you need sheltered anchorage stay north of MM48. In Elizabeth City the city dock and Pelician marina are not sheltered and with a south or west wind plan on getting beat up. there are no safe anchors south of the Elizabeth city Bridge.
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