Ted Jones continues his navigation of the Great Dismal Swamp Canal stopping in Elizabeth City, NC. The Great Dismal Swamp Canal route southbound departs the AICW south of Norfolk at Statute Mile 7.2 and begins officially at Deep Creek Lock at Mile 10.6. The Visitors Center is at approximately Mile 28. Elizabeth City is south of South Mills Lock at Statute Mile 50.7 and is A SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR!

Log, October 21, 2010 ~ Dismal Swamp Welcome Center, NC to Elizabeth City, NC:
There were seven sailboats tied up to the bulkhead, and one small powerboat joined us early. Most of the southbound cruisers wanted to make the 1100 lock, which meant leaving at 1000. Jim had not seen the museum located on the opposite bank of the canal, so we decided we could wait until the 1300 lock if need be, slipping out from alongside out host then taking his place at the bulkhead. Jim went off to cross over the floating bridge to the museum, and I went looking for Penny Leary-Smith, the welcome center manager. I didn’t have to go far, as she was on the dock, talking to cruisers. We chatted for a bit, then I went to the welcome center to sign the guest register and complete a survey the staff had prepared to indicate the importance of the center in the face of severe budget restraints by the state. It is MHO that this is an extremely important first (and last) stop for tourists entering the state by both automobile and boat. As far as is known, it is the only welcome center of its kind in the country serving, as it does, both boat and vehicle traffic.
Jim returned well before 1000, so we decided to leave with the rest and go for the 1100 lock. We soon passed the slow pokes in front (at 5.9 knots) and were first to reach the lock. There was method in my madness, as that would put us in the lead into Elizabeth City and assure us of a place at the dock. And so it was. We were far ahead of the second boat and were accorded our own passage under the Elizabeth City Bridge. We were soon tied up in a narrow slip (to be preferred as that made it easier to reach the outer pilings for stern and spring lines. We were met by two `dockboys’ ~ both well over 70 who took our port and starboard bow lines while we made fast aft. It is not a great dock, as marinas go, but the price is right, and nowhere have we been met by two dockhands who welcomed us with all sorts of information about their town including an invitation to attend the `rose buddies’ free wine and cheese party later. Although both of the original rose buddies have gone to Heaven (guaranteed), the city maintains the tradition they started.
I went off to the Farm Fresh supermarket, which had sent a car to pick up anyone wanting to shop there. When I got back, the wine and cheese party had already begun, sto I hastily stacked out provisions on the bow and went to join Jim, who the dock boy told me had already gone there. What a place! One could not ask for better hospitality, and the dock is located in the old part of town near many convenient services and stores. Fantastic!
Captain Ted Jones, former owner of Coastal Cruising Magazine

Once again Ted Jones regales us with his colorful descriptions of the waters of the AICW. The Great Dismal Swamp Canal route southbound departs the primary AICW – North Carolina, Virginia Cut, south of Norfolk at Statute Mile 7.2 and begins officially at Deep Creek Lock at Mile 10.6. The Dismal Swamp Canal Visitors Center is at approximately Mile 28.

Log October 20, 2010 ~ Portsmouth, VA to the Great Dismal Swamp welcome center:
Jim had never done the Dismal Swamp Canal route, so this was a refreshing experience for him. The impressive thing to me is that here we were on an ocean capable vessel on a canal lined with trees. The feeling is one of strange remoteness from the sea, akin to being in a foreign element which we were.
Once through the Deep Creek Lock in Virginia, the canal stretches for 11 miles in a dead straight line. Portions of the former route 17 (now a four lane highway in Virginia, relocated away from the canal) have been converted into a hiking and bicycle path which parallels the canal. Benches and picnic tables have been provided, even trash cans which we wondered were emptied how often and by whom. It is a significant improvement to not have the peace and tranquility of the canal interrupted by the blatting exhaust notes of 18 wheelers.
The canal bends 20 degrees to the left soon after it passes the feeder canal to Lake Drummond. Then the VA/NC state line is crossed, and U.S 17 reappears adjacent to the canal. Our plan was to spend the night at the Welcome Center, and when we got there the only space available was to raft up with fellow cruisers aboard a spiffy Caliber, and there we spent the night, not going ashore until morning.
Captain Ted Jones, former owner of Coastal Cruising magazine

Click Here To Open A Chart View Window, Zoomed To the Location of Dismal Swamp Canal

We’ve all had situations like this and it’s why the old salts recommend carrying two different style anchors, such as a CQR along with a Danforth, as well as a good length of chain on your rode. Railroad Bridge Anchorage is just on the outskirts of Elizabeth City, NC.

I tried for well over an hour at multiple spots and could not get my Danforth to hold anywhere in this anchorage.
Capt. Gary Riddick

Click Here To View the Cruisers’ Net’s North Carolina Anchorage Directory Listing For Railroad Bridge Anchorage

An excellent suggestion from one of the leading authorities on the AICW. This recommendation should also work south of Deep Creek Lock in the Virginia portion of the Dismal Swamp Canal. Thank you John!

My choice would be to get inside the Dismal Swamp Canal past the first lock {South Mills Lock, mile 33.2}. Then you don’t have to worry about storm surge, just the wind and there would be no fetch.
John Kettlewell, Editor of The Intracoastal Waterway Chartbook

Click Here To View Other Suggestions on Hurricane Holes in NC

Captain Ted continues his northbound voyage through the Great Dismal Swamp Canal in North Carolina to Norfolk, Virginia.

We took our time getting away from the NC Welcome Center, leaving a boat card for Penny Leary-Smith, the center’s director whom Ted has known since it opened 21 years ago (he was at the dedication). We almost never get to see Penny, but soon after he left the card, she came hurrying down the path to the dock. It was a grand but brief reunion. Ted insisted on taking her photo to commemorate the occasion.
Our day on the canal was marred only by the presence of the pesky yellow flies which ignored the drier sheets and insisted on biting our legs, which still itch 24 hours later (and after a much needed shower ashore).
The Dismal Swamp Canal is dead straight for 11 miles to a slight jog, then dead straight for the next 11 miles. It parallels Route 17, a busy four-lane highway, but the traffic is barely perceptible on the canal, screened by trees, and the sound drowned out by one’s own engine. Part of the old, two lane, Route 17 in Virginia has been renamed `Dismal Swamp Road’ and is now a path restricted for bicyclists and pedestrians.
We were passed through the highway bridge and into the lock as we arrived at Deep Creek, and soon were winding the last miles of the Dismal Swamp route, joining with the main waterway at the Route 17 high rise bridge. We just missed a opening of the Gilmerton Bridge, so had to wait for motor vehicle traffic to simmer down before we were given passage. Happily, there was no rail traffic on the adjacent railroad bridge which can delay one for a long time while the train crew makes up its train and departs. More happiness: the Jordan Bridge has been removed so apart from railroad lift bridges ~ normally open ~ Gilmerton Bridge is the only restriction in this part of Norfolk Harbor.
We took on fuel, had our holding tank pumped, and took on ice at Tidewater Marine in Portsmouth adjacent to Hospital Point and the `mile 0’ ICW marker, and there we spent the night.
Captain Ted Jones

Captain Ted’s Log gives us a vivid description of his travels – and travails – from Elizabeth City northward through the Dismal Swamp Canal. Elizabeth City is A SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR

The Dismal Swamp Canal is one of the masterpieces of the Atlantic Intracoastal Water Way. For one thing, it is not particularly liked by power boaters, as the entire 22 miles is a no wake zone and they can make better time on the alternative Virginia Cut Route. Another thing they don’t like about the Dismal Swamp Canal is the snags which are numerous but mostly harmless to slow moving sailboats. Those who appreciate this canal like to travel slowly and smell the roses, so to speak.
We had hoped to make it to Norfolk/Portsmouth in one day from Elizabeth City, but the three hours plus from Elizabeth City to South Mills lock and the published lock schedules would have made it impossible for us to get there in time for the fireworks. Neither could we have stayed in Elizabeth City to watch theirs as we are in a swivet to get north so Ted can make his VA appointment in Vermont on July 12th. So onward we pushed. Little did we know that the published lock schedules are only for restricted times. We found that both locks opened for us upon arrival and locked us through all alone.
Immediately after you leave the Elizabeth City docks, you pass under the draw bridge and begin winding your way up the Pasquotank River to the South Mills lock at the southern end of the Dismal Swamp Canal. It is a long, circuitous route which took us a little over three hours to cover. At times the compass indicates that one is headed south of west. at others… well, it is easy to lose track. From the Elizabeth City bridge, where the Pasquotank is wide and deep, the river gradually narrows and splits several times. The U.S. Army Corps of engineers has placed green channel markers in several places to mark the route, and at the last fork before reaching South Mills, a discreet sign with an arrow removes any ambiguity. However, we came to an apparent impasse well up the river and had to back down hard to stop and figure it out. There was no apparent passage through the jungle, but we found it around the corner. Thereafter, we maintained a leisurely pace of 4.5 knots instead of 5.8 knots.
To meander thus into an ever narrowing, winding river is fascinating. Here you are miles from the ocean in an ocean capable sailboat wondering if you will ever get there or if you have made some mistake and taken a wrong path. If our sailboat had conventional rigging, the upper shrouds would surely have fouled an overhanging branch, and even our mizzen backstays brushed a leaf or two. Don’t take our word for it; have a look at the photos Ted took.
Although we were way early for the 1500 scheduled locking, we were locked through (alone) soon after we arrived at the lock. We would still be too late to make the last lock at Deep Creek, so we stayed overnight at the NC welcome station which is the only such facility which caters to both motorists (and truckers) and boats. We were the only boat.
The friendly ladies at the welcome center gave us several dryer sheets which they said would keep the yellow flies away. We can’t say that they did: another insect repellent myth tested and rejected, but we appreciated the thought and effort. We were told that the local baseball players could not play without them. Perhaps the flies have become used to the repellent. We found that the `moscaswatta’ Jack Wisner had given Ted was very effective in dispatching the little yellow buggers. Jack grew up in Argentina which is a hint as to the derivation of `moscaswatta,’ a bastardization of Spanish and colloquial American.
Captain Ted Jones

Boy, how can Elizabeth City continue to do even MORE for the cruising community. I don’t know, but they keep on trying.
It’s no accident that Elizabeth City is known as one of the most welcoming ports of call on the entire Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway. The spirit of “Rose Buddie’s” founder, Fred Fearing, lives on. Don’t miss a stop here!

Hi
I wanted to let you know that a local ice company is now offering block ice and’¦they will deliver to our beautiful waterfront! We would love it if you would post this exciting information on your website.
Wright Ice Company
1105 Herrington Road
Elizabeth City, NC 27909
252-335-2697
Please let us know if you have any questions and thanks so much!!!
Susan

Click Here To View the Cruisers’ Net’s North Carolina Marina Directory Listing For Mariner’s Wharf (town docks in Elizabeth City)

Click Here To View the Cruisers’ Net’s North Carolina Marina Directory Listing For Pelican Marina (in Elizabeth City)

The accolades keep rolling in for Elizabeth City, one of the friendliest stops on the entire Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway from Norfolk, VA to Miami, FL. Of course, southbounders will probably visit this charming community only if they choose to cruise the Dismal Swamp Canal Route. Many, including this writer, love this passage, but others find the possible presence of underwater debris an offset to the Dismal’s great ecological beauty!

Cruising News: Hi Claiborne,
Legrace is in Elizabeth City again, this place is as nice and is as boater friendly as always!! We much prefer the Dismal Swamp route over the Virginia Cut and Elizabeth City is just icing on the cake.
Bob & Lynn Williamson
On Legrace in Elizabeth City

Subject: Elizabeth City is still great
Cruising News: We did a recent stop in eliz city and it is still the greatest place to stop – there are a few changes – first food fresh runs a schedule shuttle at 0900,1200, and 1500 – the mgr said he was getting 10 calls a day as cruisers were not coordinating there runs so he had to set a schedule – and he did the right thing
Second the dinner theater unfortunately closed – they are trying to find someone to take it over – admiral patty said if we were not cruising it would be great thing to take over and run
Third in the summer on Tuesday they have outdoor [party] right at Mariners Wharf where we tie up – it is great and a fun time with folks from all over the city coming out
Groupers is providing a tent for the Rose Buddies so thank you Groupers – they do still serve great beer and lastly but sadly but happily – sadly Steve is no longer mayor as he – happily decided to get a boat and join us cruising
Welcome steve to the family – boat is trawler Carolina
Chuck, Patty
SVsoulmates

Click Here To View the Cruisers’ Net’s North Carolina Marina Directory Listing For Mariner’s Wharf (town docks in Elizabeth City)

Click Here To View the Cruisers’ Net’s North Carolina Marina Directory Listing For Pelican Marina (in Elizabeth City)

I wonder how many thousands of boaters have been given the royal welcome by the legendary Rose Buddies. Elizabeth City sets the standard for making cruisers feel at home. Once in the past, because of high winds that kept the Alligator River Bridge closed for several days, my family and I were graciously allowed to stay well beyond the normal limit. Roger and Karen join the ranks of those who sing the praises for the citizens and environs of Elizabeth City.

Submitted on 2010/05/22 at 10:23pm
Several of us opted to take the Dismal Swamp route north so we could experience Elizabeth City and the `Rose Buddies’ that we had heard about on many occasions. We arrived on Fri. night and attended the Rose Buddies welcome complete with beer, wine and snacks and useful information about our stay. Dave gave us good info on the trip north to mm 0 and Steve Atkinson (sp?) the former mayor was exemplary in his welcoming us to his town. We liked what we saw (especially the free dock) and decided to spend an additional day in E city spending cash on restaurants, farmers market and Karen even found a dress for our son’s wedding in Nov at a small boutique near the docks! Elizabeth City is a must stop on the loop. Don’t pass this one by ‘“ it’s a gem.
Captains Roger & Karen Montembeault
aboard m/v Karen Anne,
1986 KK Manatee

Click Here To View the Cruisers’ Net’s North Carolina Marina Directory Listing For Mariners Wharf City Docks

Elizabeth City is the Dismal Swamp Canal Route’s only real port of call. This community is well known for its hospitality, as Capt. David relates below, and they are a SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR!.

Claiborne
Perhaps northbound cruisers could use some very recent Elizabeth City information to supplement your excellent comments in your Guide. Betty and I drove (sorry about that) to Elizabeth City on April 19 and we stayed at the Elizabeth City B&B (252 338 2177) a 5 minute walk from the docks. It is a late 19th century house. Ray and Maureen were excellent hosts-wine in the courtyard and a fantastic breakfast. We had a good lunch at the Cyprus Creek Cafe just across the street from the docks and great fish dinners at Logan Raye’s Key West Grill on Colonial Avenue. The latter has a local atmosphere. The Visitors’ Center has a good walking map with descriptions of the local buildings. The new Museum of the Albemarle that can be seen to the left of the docks is a must visit. It just opened and has excellent exhibits of the history of the area and the Outer Banks. This could easily take half of a day.
Lamb’s Marine is well maintained. Larry sends his regards.
David Hughes
Expedition

Ditto. Stayed at Pelican Marina last Thursday and Friday nights. Marina just fair but priced right. The town is to be experienced. Very cruiser friendly locals, walkable town with a good variety of dining.
BTW, got thumped 8 times in the ditch.
Best marina so far in the AICW is Port Royal Landing Marina. Port Royal, SC
M/V Into The Mystic, currently lying St. Michaels, MD

Click Here To View the Cruisers’ Net’s North Carolina Marina Directory Listing For Lamb’s Marine

Click Here To View the Cruisers’ Net’s North Carolina Marina Directory Listing For Pelican Marina

What else can I say about Elizabeth City except that it is one of the friendliest port of call from Maine to Key West. And, the city is a SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR!

Dear Mr. Young,
My family and I aboard S-V Whirling Dervish docked at the city docks in Elizabeth City on our trip south after exiting the Dismal Swamp. WOW, what a welcoming place! Every cruiser coming through the Dismal Swamp should stop at the free city docks and enjoy this town!
Paul Dolan & Family
SV Whirling Dervish
November 1, 2009

Click Here To View the North Carolina Cruisers’ Net Marina Directory Listing For The Mariners Wharf (City) Docks

The discussion below is copied from the T&T (Trawlers and Trawlering) mailing list. As there are so many contributions, it’s impractical to get individual permissions, so I’m just using first names.
I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again. The alternate AICW Dismal Swamp Canal route is a great choice for slow moving craft, not in an hurry. Of course, you can sometimes encounter sunken debris, but the historical and ecological cruising offered by the Dismal is, in my opinion, more than worth it.

I can’t tell you about the water level but if you’ve never done the Dismal Swamp, you are in for a treat. Take it slow to avoid kicking up deadheads and enjoy the scenery. Stop for the night at the NC Visitor’s Center. If Karen enjoyed saying Peeankatank she will have fun with Pasquotank as well. It is one of the most beautiful stretches of river along the ICW. Elizabeth City is one of our mostest bestest favoritest places to stop. The grocery store will pick Karen up and drop her back off in their van when she goes to replenish your ice cream supply. Find the Colonial Diner for some good ol’ down home southern comfort food.
Regards,
Randy
MORNING STAR

It is a gorgeous run (I did the Carolina Loop this summer). Two locks and a few bridges. Stay in the clear when in the narrow part of the ditch or the overhanging tress will snap your antenna (personal experience!). Good Mexican place right on the canal just south of last lock and bridge. Eliz City very nice and accommodating. Rose Buddies are famous, but docks are first come first serve.
Jim

We just came through the Swamp in the last two days. It is a lovely and relaxing trip. Plenty of water but keep an eye out for snags.
The entire trip is a no-wake zone.
Stop at the free dock at the North Carolina Visitors’ Center. Expect to raft with other snowbirders. No electricity, but water is available at the north corner of the dock and people connect hoses to reach where needed. The ladies in the Center are tremendously helpful and knowledgeable.
Stop overnight at the Elizabeth City free dock or the bulkhead at the park for catamarans or anyone else if the regular docks are full. The local grocery will pick you up and bring you back. An easy walk to a Laundromat. All kinds of restaurants including a dinner movie theatre. For 5 or more boats, the city is still holding a Rose Buddy Party – wine and beer and chips on the dock and some good camaraderie.
Allen

Randy is right; Dismal Swamp route is exquisite. No go fast boats, and no wakes. In the cut canals, there are some dead heads lying on the bottom. They’re easy to avoid. To avoid them, travel slowly, and mind your separation with other vessels. This time of year, you’ll probably be traveling with other boats. Leave several hundred feet of space between you and the vessel you’re following, less for sail boats because their props are smaller and higher than the trawlers and cruisers.
Peg and Jim aboard Sanctuary

Click Here To View the North Carolina Cruisers’ Net Marina Directory Listing For The Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Center

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The laudatory postings from cruisers stopping at Elizabeth City, and tying up to the free (for 48 hours) city owned and operated Mariners Wharf docks, just keep on coming. If you choose to “do the Dismal,” don’t dare miss a stop in Elizabeth City, not the least reason for which is that these guys are a SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR!

Mile 50.9 – Elizabeth City. Another example of the well known hospitality of dockeepers Sam and Doug and others helping to welcome boaters. My Chinese motor scooter had suddenly stopped working – an emergency in my book since I have found it so useful for getting to grocery stores. Having determined it was an ignition coil failure, Susan Hartley of the Welcome Bureau not only ran me some 8 miles to only scooter store in town – but waited there as we tried to find a replacement part and ran me back! Fitted the new coil, paid the $50, pressed the button – Bingo! – I was back in business at 45mph and 126 mpg……..
The Farm Fresh grocery store will still pick you up and take you back – but the week before some boater got the service but bought only a single pack of cigarettes! Now that’s just not fair folks! Great showers at the Fitness Center – $2 but well worth it. The nearby coffee shop sells a great Reuben sandwich. It’s hard to beat Elizabeth City for a free 2 or 3 day dockage.
Arnold

I am sorry to hear that there was someone abusing the wonderful service of the Fresh Farm Store. However I can say that on the 15th several of the Firstmates more than made up for that. Ken from Fresh Farm picked up 4 of us and we filled up his trunk with all of our provisions. The downtown area is lovely but saddly many storefronts and buildings are vacant. In my hometown of Portland, Maine, waterfront property like that is prime territory.
Joanne

Click Here To View the North Carolina Cruisers’ Net Marina Directory Listing For Mariners Wharf Docks

Lambs Marina is a small facility, located a few miles north of Elizabeth City, off the AICW Dismal Swamp Alternate Route/Pasquotank River. Its dockage basin is well sheltered, and they offer the only fuel now available on the North Carolina portion of the Dismal passage. There is also a welcome fresh seafood market on site.

With high blustery south winds the dockage at Elizabeth City tends to be uncomfortable. So I moved up river to the old NS railroad bridge and moored in nice quiet area just north of the bridge. Unhappily during the night the wind changed and thus the current with it and I drifted some 200 yards before my anchor snagged on a sunken log. I had to cut it loose in the morning. But this mishap was much compensated by the friendly reception of owners Larry and Georgia Lamb, who built this marina years ago and really know how to meet the needs of boaters. Larry even ran me to a store in Elizabeth City to get parts – and kindly offered me an old style anchor as a spare, which I turned down not wishing to be a pest. This marina has everything – propane, low cost fuel, a monthly slip rate of only $3.50 a ft and an equally low transient rate for boats with less than 6ft draft. There is a great little local restaurant nearby – and a fresh fish and bait store. So here’s to you Larry and Georgia – may you last forever!
Arnold

Click Here To View the North Carolina Cruisers’ Net Marina Directory Listing For Lambs Marina