The author of the account below, Ted Jones, is the former publisher of the late and much lamented "Coastal Cruising" magazine. Ted is a good friend, and an excellent reporter. There's LOTS of good cruising news in his story!
Below, Ted comments that the Dismal Swamp Canal locks are only operating twice a day. THAT HAS CHANGED AS OF TODAY! NOW THE LOCKS AND BRIDGES ARE OPERATING NORMALLY, FOUR TIMES A DAY!
Note Ted's laudatory comments about Elizabeth City. This fine community is now a SALTY SOUTHEST CRUISERS' NET SPONSOR!

The passage down the Great Dismal Swamp Canal has its contrasts as well. I have often marveled that an ocean capable sailboat could cut through the middle of an impenetrable jungle — masts almost kissing the tree limbs overhead — in such surene surroundings far from her intended element. It is wonderful. Although we were second boat out of the lock, I let the faster boats go ahead, and after awhile we were alone on the canal. The State of Virginia has improved and moved Route 17 away from the canal, so there was virtually nothing to remind us that we were still in a populated area. We opted to stop at the North Carolina combined highway, boating welcome station and tied to the bulkhead for the night along with other cruisers, making new friends both human and canine as we all settled in for the night. I was pleased that my friend Penny Leary-Smith, long time manager of the welcome center was in her office. I reminded her that I had been present at the official innauguration of the center which she reminded me was 20 years ago.
The NC welcome center has recently opened a Great Dismal Swamp Museum which is located on the north side of the canal, connected by a floating aluminum bridge which is rotated 90 degrees to allow pedestrians (and mantanence vehicles) access to the museum. It contains quite comprehensive and well-done vingenettes which illustrate the various aspects of the swamp, its flaura and fauna. Danny and I wondered if the other had pushed a button to start birds to sing, but realized that it is triggered by a motion sensor when one is looking at the avian illustration.
Another new museum is located near the waterfront at Elizabeth City which chronacles the development of the Dismal Swamp from native american days to the present time with impressive life-size dioramas of life in the area including the history of the building of the canal and its strategic value as a transportation system from pre-civil war days through world war II. Both of these exhibits have opened within the year and appear poised to expand their offerings as time and money permit. Neither museum charges admission.
We all shoved off from the welcome station at 0800 to be ready for the morning lock opening. At this time the canal locks at both ends open at 0900 and 1500. A liesurely neander down the Pasquotank River brought us to the Elizabeth City Bridge (highway), and again we were “tail-last-charlie.” We were motioned into the last available spot along the steel bulkhead and were greeted by David, of the Rose Buddies committee who made us welcome and answered our questions. We had counted on obtaining provisions at Elizabeth City, and a call to the Fresh Food Market summoned a car, driven by the store manager, no less, whose name is Ken. His description of the market did not prepare us for the bounty which lay within the area’s newest supermarket, which is one of the most comprehensive food stores I have ever been in. When we had finished our shopping, Ken drove us back to the dock area and helped us unload out groceries.
I had just enough time for a quick look inside the large and impressive museum across the road while Jack and Danny went in search of hot showers (Ocean Gypsy has two — solar and engine heated water as well as an electric water heater when plugged in [no plug-ins at Elizabeth City] — but they were each hoping for more sybaritic luxury than these). I was successful, they were not, having been confused by second hand directions. Then it was time for the Rose Buddies wine and chese party. Original Rose Buddy, Fred Fearing, passed away recently, but there are many who have stood up to carry on the tradition, one of whom is the recently elected city mayor, Steve, who spent a few minutes welcoming us snowbird cruisers, telling us of his plans to expand the waterfront facilities (bathrooms with showers are on the agenda in the near future). All of this is free, BTW, including dockage for up to 48 hours! Alas, there is no marine diesel, water, or pump-out available, all of which we thought we needed. Jack and I walked two blocks to a nearby convenience store and filled our five gallon diesel can for insurance. We didn’t need the brush handle we had brought along to share the load coming back to the boat as we were offered a ride by a pleasant young man hanging out at the conveniece store. We tipped him accordingly.
After the wine and chese party I found Steve prowling the docks looking for space for new arrivals. Elizabeth City’s mayor is not above working the docks in his bretton red shorts and Topsiders as one of the Rose Buddies. Indeed, he is one of us, a sailor.
Ted Jones

Peg and Jim's message below (copied from the Great Loop list) is a fair testament to the good and less than good qualities of this historic, alternate ICW route. As I've said many times. when not in a hurry to get somewhere, and the water levels and lock openings permit, we usually choose to run the Dismal Swamp route! Of course, if you need to get somewhere by a certain date, or are just fleeing south to find warmer weather, the NC-VA cut via Coinjoick is clearly faster and generally easier to navigate. And, don't forget as Peg and Jim note below (and already mentioned on several earlier Net postings), that the Dismal locks are currently only operating twice a day!

Sanctuary and crew decided to travel the Dismal Swamp Route south this fall. To avoid the morning bridge restrictions on the Elizabeth River, we spent last night on the hook at the Deep Creek lock. There were several other boats there with us. As of today, there are two lockings per day; 09h00 and 15h00, at both Deep Creek and South Mills. We were the third boat in line at the lock, and we passed a sailing cat because they were stopping at the North Carolina Visitor's Center and we weren't. We followed the first boat (trawler) at a distance of about 1/2 mile. We traveled between 6 and 7 mph.
The canal from South Mills to the "Administrators House" has been dredged, and we saw nothing less than 8 1/2 feet of water. South of the "Administrators House," we saw areas of 7 ft. The rest of the route to Elizabeth City held at least 7 ft.
There are a lot of dead heads, and a lot of flotsam. We saw one 15" diameter by 10 ft free floating log. We bumped something once, but at slow speed so no damage. Stay alert!
The lockmaster at Deep Creek (not Robert) said the reason for the restricted locking schedule was a fire in the swamp in May that severely depleted Lake Drummond's huge water reserve. The lockmaster at South Mills confirmed that, but said the folks at Great Bridge "were totally swamped" with traffic because of the Dismal Swamp restrictions, and said he'd been told they would go back to 4 locking per day "next week." Those of you headed south who might be interested in the Dismal Swamp route should keep an eye on that.
We were warmly welcomed at Elizabeth City. The Rose Buddy party is still running under the auspices of the Visitor's Welcome Center. It starts at 16h30 weekdays. All the slips were full when we arrived, but there was space at the wall to the southwest. No problems.
Others will disagree, but we heartily recommend "the swamp" to those who might not have tried it. It's a very lovely trip; some of the wildest country on the A-ICW, and no go fast boats!!! Go slowly (placidly); you will be rewarded with nature at it's best and no damages to props. Peg and Jim Healy, aboard Sanctuary currently at Elizabeth City, NC

I've always known that the waters of Pasquotank River and the Dismal Swamp Canal were very well sheltered from rough water. Now, this impression is confirmed by Captain Ray below!

Subject: Dismal Swamp
Message: We just rode out the north-easter inside the canal and the Pasquatank River. The wind was howling over the trees but the water was calm and quiet. This was a great place to ride out the storm. The senery is beautiful. My mast height is 50 feet and the trees were always higher, giving good protection. I never saw less than 4-1/2 feet inside the canal locks. There was low water exiting South Mills because the storm blew the water down the river the day we came through.
Ray Schmidt

Since the ownership changed at Pelican Marina last year, we have had several complimentary reports here on the Cruisers’ Net about this facility. Captain Dave’s message below continues that tradition!

Subject: Pelican Marina
Message: I am responding to a news contribution from Sept 16 by MV Hale Kai. I am currently living aboard at The Pelican Marina where they still do a very steady transient business. I do know that more and more they stay full (including nightly slips) because of how ideal their marina is. When possible, us as monthly slipholders even use the excuse to go hang on the hook and free up additional slips. They offer a flat nightly rate of $35, and that is all inclusive (even laundry). It is true that they have sold slips. What is not true is that they are all privately owned. The Pelican still owns 65% and the rest are still rented monthly or nightly.
Thanks for letting me contribute.
Dave

And, here’s another!

Subject: Pelican Marina in E-City
Message: We just (Oct 4) came through the Dismal Swamp Canal and overnighted at the Pelican Marina. Plenty of water in the canal – we had 8 feet all the way through. Pelican Marina was $35 for the night – we are 43 feet and the laundry and electric were included. This is an endorsement for the marina. Nice people and an easy walk over the bridge into town.
Fred Sorensen
OA 43

Click Here For More Information On Pelican Marina

There is a lot of interest in Elizabeth City, and the Dismal Swamp Canal right now (9/23/08) as a place to possibly ride out the storm that is brewing off the North Carolina coastline. I just telephoned the Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Center, and confirmed that the canal’s locks ARE STILL OPERATING ON A RESTRICTED SCHEDULE. THEY ARE CURRENTLY OPENING ONLY AT 9:00 AM AND 3:00 PM!!!

Below is a series of notes I have copied from the Great Loop list. By the way, both yours truly and that late, great Skipper Bob agree that the free city docks in Elizabeth City can get rough in REALLY foul weather, though in anything short of a gale, they make for a GREAT overnight stop!

We are considering doing the Dismal Swamp Canal in about 7 days Can you post any comments as to water level & are the Lock back on normal schedule?
Any problem in making the transit?
Larry Hemmerich

Sanctuary was at the Elizabeth City docks on Mother’s Day, 2008. We knew a blow was coming, but we chose to tie up at the docks. Some neighbors moved to the anchorage above the bridge, but we did not. Based on that experience, I warn all EC visitors to be *very mindful* of Skipper Bob’s advice on the EC docks. That storm system blew through the area carrying southeast to northwest winds that came straight up the Pasquotank River. This caused two problems. First, the water rose several feet, into local parking lots, and the very short finger piers made it quite difficult to get
on and off the boat. Second, the water at the sea wall was extremely rough. As the waves hit the seawall and reflected back off the solid wall, standing waves formed. It was a rough ride. We took a little damage to the handrail while we were at dinner.
Don’t misunderstand, we love Elizabeth City and we love the Dismal Swamp Canal. I just support Skipper Bob’s observations about conditions when sustained winds blow from the southeast.
There is a good anchorage just up river from the drawbridge. You be better off there in a real blow, and dinghy into town.
The NC Welcome Center in the canal would also be quite secure (except fortrees???)!!!
YMMV, but that’s our experience.
Peg and Jim Healy
aboard Sanctuary

The water level in the canal is 6 feet minimum. Canal locks are opening only at 0900 and 1500 daily.
Bob McLearan and Judy Young

Click Here For More Information On The Elizabeth City Mariner’s Wharf Facility