Pete’s Pier/Kings Bay Marine is the most upstream facility on the Big Bend’s Crystal River. Moving generally west, this stream eventually widens into a broad basin, known and charted as Kings Bay. Pete’s Pier lies on this bay’s northeastern quadrant, east of marker #29.
Pete’s Pier, so many good things to say about the people here at Pete’s Pier. Its not swanky, but it feels like home to me. Might not be everything you want here, but it damn well sure has everything you could need! BlackOak
I have often said before, but it bears repeating again, “get twelve cruisers together, and you will give fourteeen opinions about how to best traverse Western Florida’s waterwayless ‘Big Bend’ region.” Every time this topic arises, whether it’s here on the Cruisers’ Net, or some other nautical forum, a wide range of often very useful and informative opinions come to light. That’s just the case below. Overnight passages can be memorable, especially when the seas cooperate as Capt. MacMahon describes below. The direct channel to Clearwater Municipal Marina from the Western Florida ICW (there is another entrance from Clearwater Pass Inlet), cuts sharply west, just south of the high-rise Clearwater Beach Bridge.
Calypso (American Tug 34) crossed the Gulf from Apalachicola to Clearwater on September 22-23. Left Apalachicola at 8:30 a.m. and went down the GICW to East Pass. Exited East Pass into the Gulf shortly before 11:30a.m. Weather report was for light winds (5 to 10 mph) out of some derivation of the North for all day and night with waves projected to be 1 to 2 feet. It was a little bouncy going thru East Pass and for the next 45 minutes or so until reaching deeper water. Then, it smoothed out into widely spaced two foot swells which the boat glided over. Conditions got even better as the day progressed and as Calypso worked its way further South until it was essentially smooth throughout the night. Made better time than planned so had to slow down several times in order to arrive after daylight. Stayed out in deeper water (40 feet plus) as approached Clearwater so as to avoid expected crab pots in shallower water. As it got light headed into Clearwater Pass and there were no crab pots off the coast there. Dredging equipment was at Clearwater Pass but no problem getting by it. Turned left just after going under the high rise bridge over the pass and went up the side channel to Clearwater Beach Municipal Marina. Somewhat shallow (5 feet over the bar) in the side channel (with about one foot of tide. But, once over the bar depth was fine. The marina has fixed docks and there is a little bit of wake from tour boats (but not bad at all). Showers/heads are not climate controlled. Dock master was helpful. And, it is close to the beach and lots of restaurants/bars. Mark MacMahon
We found Panama City to Clearwater area to be the best for us. Leave Panama City in the morning, over night to Clearwater entrance. Anchor between condos and sleep and rest the rest of the day. Don’t like going across that shallow lake east of Panama City. We also found the return trip to Panama City nice also. We would anchor thru the single lift bridge for a day or two. Then there’s the visit to Gano’s bayou for some of the best hospitality ! Thanks, Ted Brown, boatless but thinking
We’ve done the Gulf crossing 5 times, all overnighters. We departed from Tarpon Springs or Tampa/St Petersburg going west. Destin, Panama City, Carrabelle going east. We’ve always done the overnighters as our philosophy is that one over night is one overnighter at our trawler speed of 8 mph (7 knts). Leave in the Daylight from either end and plan to arrive no earlier than mid day going east so that you are not looking into the sun and can see the myriad of trap floats that extend a surprising distance off shore some as far as 30+ miles. Just get into port in full daylight going west. Having spent time in the arm pit, Steinhatchie and Cedar Key hold no attractions for me so I prefer to get across and not hassle with the shallow entry channels guarded by oyster/clam bed. If you really want to go to them watch your tides and remember the winter northerlies can and does draw the gulf waters down up to +2′ lower than MLLW where it will remain for several days. So beware of entering shallow channels with expectations of leaving when ever. The distance we go(departure to arrival point) when doing an overnighter is determined by the weather window and weather at each end which can vary depending upon wind speeds and directions at the different points i.e. following seas over head seas, vice fetch and durations along the planned route. Contrary to some guides in all our crossings we have never been out of range (VHF) contact with a USCG site. Remember, patience is the key to an uneventful and boring (at best) crossing and daylight departures and arrivals. Joe M/V “Carolyn Ann” GH N-37
Joe Pica said “and remember the winter northerlies can and does draw the gulf waters down up to +2′ lower than MLLW where it will remain for several days. So beware of entering shallow channels with expectations of leaving whenever.” That is some good advice and things to consider. Thanks for posting that Joe. After living in FL for one winter I saw that is true. Ralph Yost
You ask a good question, what is the best destination for crossing the Gulf, Tarpon Springs or Clearwater. Both are good but slightly different. Tarpon Springs is about 5-6 miles closer if the total crossing distance is critical and marinas there will take reservations, more critical in years past when there were more boaters out there. Clearwater is an easier approach and a few less crab pots to dodge but you would be in the deeper Gulf for a bit longer, important if the west wind is starting to pick up as you finish your crossing. Clearwater has their sunset celebrations that are indeed special but Tarpon Springs has that delicious Greek food that can’t be found many other places. To decide what is best port, you will have to serve rum drinks to about a dozen cruisers who have done it before but hope that someone passes out so there can’t be a tie vote. Stay safe, Tom Conrad
The information posted is very helpful. I do have a follow up question for the group. Cruising at 9knts aboard my GB 32, how long should I plan for getting from Fairhope AL to East Pass? Thanks! Randy Hondros
Randy, Your priorities should be your major guide in planning time from Fairhope to East Pass. On our last trip through that section, it took us over 6 weeks. There are miles of sandy, shell-covered beaches to explore ‘“ usually by yourself this time of year. Anchor at Perdido Key, Shell Island, and Cape San Blas. Don’t miss the Naval Air Museum and Joe Patti’s seafood market in Pensacola. Apalachicola is a quaint town with some of the best oysters and shrimp in the world. The Florida Panhandle is a great cruising destination that should be savored slowly. Too many cruisers rush through the Panhandle concerned about getting to a point to cross the Gulf and miss some outstanding experiences. Glen and Jill Moore DeFever 40 Last Dance
Those of you who have been following the Salty Southeast Cruisers’ Net’s Western Florida sections for some time are probably tired of hearing me say it, but it’s worth one more repetition. If you get six veteran cruisers together, who have already crossed the Big Bend on several occasions, you will get at least eight opinions on the best strategy. So, what’s the “big deal” about this section of the Western Florida coastline? Well, the “big deal” is that the Western Florida ICW’s northern terminus lies at Anclote Key, and moving north towards Florida’s Panhandle, there is NO protected Waterway until one reaches Dog Island and the charming village of Carrabelle. Some cruisers argue vehemently that the best plan is to follow the Big Bend coastline (staying WELL offshore to avoid the large shelf of shallows that protrude from this section of the WF coastline), while others are equally passionate that you should cut the corner and head straight from Dog Island to Anclote Key, or the other way around. My opinion is that there is NOT any one “best” strategy for every boat, and every sort of weather condition. And, in recognition of that truth, there has been a lively discussion of late on the American Great Loop Cruisers’ Association Forum about the correct strategy for this passage. Read the advice below, access your preferences, your boat’s capabilities, and the latest weather forecast, and make your decision accordingly. Whichever plan you employ, GOOD LUCK!
We are in the planning stage of beginning the loop in the Spring of 2013. I would like other loopers explanations on why so many people cross directly from Carrabelle to the Tarpon Springs area instead of going around the Bend and stopping at some of the places along the way. What I think I am understanding so far is that water depth is an issue during the winter and winds could pick up and prevent you from the next leg. Other than that, I am wondering why it seems so many people take the straight, long shot straight over. Kenneth and Candice Farst
There were many excellent statements made yesterday on the wisdom of picking a straight across route to cross the Gulf versus making the Big Bend route. There are only three points I would disagree. First, do not arrive early in the morning at Tarpon Springs or Clearwater as the potential of being blinded by the sun as you go through the numerous crab pots is too great. Plan to arrive at 10am or later. The second point concerns the statement of arriving in the Big bend ports of Steinhatchee, Cedar Key, or Crystal River at or near high tide. That is a true. The same is true for departing those ports, leave at high tide. In the Big Bend, it is roughly 13 hours between high tides. Unfortunately, during the winter months there is not 13 hours of daylight to depart and arrive at a high tide so something has to give, either risk a grounding at less than mid tide, or travel close to shore at night, NEVER a good idea. Third, winter tides are 1-2 feet less and the 4.5 ft concern level stated by another so you could have only 2.5 feet depending on the wind conditions and the moon stage. That will make lots of things to consider before coming to a conclusion. Stay safe, Tom
We have made several trips back and forth from Sarasota, FL and Mobile, AL(we grew up there). The Big Bend route is a fun route to take. Many quaint river ports and towns and great seafood. All the river ports have marked entrance channels and are generally easily accessible for a vessel drawing 4 ft. or less at low tide . Hi tide would allow maybe up to 5 ft. draft-some quite a lot more i.e. St Marks ). Greater draft >5 ft. would remove a few ports from accessibility even at high tide i.e. Crystal River/ Homosassa River.. Check out (west to east) after Carrabelle: Panacea St Marks Steinhatchee Withlacoochee/Yankee Town(a Coast Guard location) Cedar Key Cross Florida barge canal anchorage Crystal River Homosassa River Then you get to Tarpon Springs On older charts you will actually find a Big Bend Route with markers and lat/lon but they are no longer there. You do need to stay farther off shore, but the 20 foot depth line works well. Just came back this way on last leg of my great loop in January 2011. Enjoy Bill
Sounds like Captains Barbara and Jim, plus Golden Retriever Lily, may have run into some lower than usual tides. I don’t ever recall finding such shallow depths in Crystal River. Have you had a similar or dissimilar experience on these waters? Please click the “Click Here to Submit Cruising News” link on the upper right side of this page, and share your information!
Our draft is 4.7 and had no problems in Steinhatchee. However, when we reached Crystal River, we had to wait 1 1/2 hours at the entrance to the channel to wait for the tide to come in for enough water for our draft. Boat US heard us talking on the radio to our buddy boats and told us to wait. We docked at Twin Rivers since it was getting dark and did not want to proceed further. The next day we were sitting in the mud. We were told there would be enough water at the docks there, but not so! By the time the tide rose the next day, it was too late to leave. SO, the next day, we headed up to Pete’s Pier. There we had .6 under our keel at low tide. We were lucky to have a good weather window and by leaving at 0900, were able to make it down the river and to the Gulf during high tide. If we didn’t leave that day, we would have had to wait 2 weeks for the tide to roll around with enough daylight to get to Tarpon Springs. Both towns were nice and worth the stop, however, the tides would make the deciding factor. It was a bit tricky with the timing. Barbara and Jim Benjamin and Golden Retriever, Lily Golden Lily, Nordic Tug 42
River Haven Marina is the most upstream facility catering to cruising size craft on the Big Bend’s Steinhatchee River.
We had a very pleasant experience at River Haven Marina Sept.12,2011. We were running late and called and told them we would probably not get there by their 1800 closing and to please give us our slip assignment. They said not to worry they would stay until we got there. As it turned out were were only minutes late but appreciated their kind attention. We actually stayed an extra night and enjoy a dink ride up the river,secure in the advice they gave us about the rocks ahead. They also offered to pick up a prescription for us at a pharmacy 20mi away. River Haven will go 20 times the extra mile for their customers. Dolores Reinecke
We have long held the opinion that Sea Hag Marina is the most cruiser friendly facility in Florida’s Big Bend region. Looks like Captain Dye agrees!
Cruising News: I had a great experience at Sea Hag Marina in Steinhatchee, Florida. I was helping the new owner of a 1982 Egg Harbor move his new purchase from Punta Gorda to Destin. Because of weather and maintenance issues, we decided to go into Steinhatchee. The marina isn’t a regular stop for transient cruisers, but Sea Hag was easy to get into and they welcomed us. We explained the maintenance issues and they said, `No problem.’ Thorough, professional, clean and technically competent, they did an amazing job! Charlie Norwood is the owner and ever-present. His professional and friendly personality permeates the entire organization. Sea Hag is one of those pleasant finds while cruising. Jake Dye
Our thanks to fellow cruisers Todd and Branda Lanning for a superb report on this Big Bend River. Moving north from Anclote Key, Crystal River is really the first of the Big Bend stream really suitable for cruising size craft. There is Homosassa River to the south, BUT iffy depths here and the lack of facilities for vessels over 30 feet usually entice us to continue on to Crystal River.
Good Morning Claiborne, As per your request here is the latest & greatest on Crystal River, FL. Life’s2Short had a wonderful 3 days in the fresh waters of Kings Bay, always nice to rinse off the salt that one accumulates as they cruise north & south along the gulf coast! This is our fourth time up to Crystal River and has become one of our favorite west coast stops. We anchored in a new spot this time that is even better protected than the main waters of Kings Bay, the new anchorage is on east and then south of the main anchorage on the backside of the island located in Kings Bay. We did dinghy over to Pete’s Pier to take a look around and get some ice. Nothing has changed over there, still a pretty run down marina with no apparent need to fix anything up. I’m not badmouthing the marina as it’s still a good place to go if you need a slip, however we much prefer anchoring out in this wonderful area! Depths in the channel leading into the river seem to have remained steady since we were last here in 2009. All depths listed below are actual water depths and with the “Shell Island” tide station showing 1 foot above low tide. We found that you need to approach the outside markers on a due west-to-east line when you are within a 1/2 mile of markers #1 & #2, depths on this line are all about 7 to 8 feet deep. We hugged the green #1 marker as we came in and never saw less than 8 feet between #1 & #2. Only two areas we found that were somewhat skinny. Between markers #5 & #6 we registered an actual depth of 6.5 feet and then again around Shell Island we found 6 feet of actual depth. We also tended to hold to the green markers before getting to Shell Island. The key to getting through the Shell Island area is to hang close to Shell Island when you pass by. After Shell Island the depths are fine and you can relax for the 6 miles on up this beautiful river, getting pushed along with the incoming tide! I know many people are leery about heading up this river because of depth. Life’s2Short draws 4 feet so we had no issues whatsoever. If I was taking in a 5′ draft boat I would wait until 1/2 tide rising, and I would have no issue taking in a 6 foot draft boat if I went at high tide. This area is truly a gem on the west coast of Florida and should not be missed if you have the time as you are headed up or down the coast! Todd & Brenda Lanning Life’s2Short 1985 40′ Oceania Trawler
Like Captain Duffie (see below), I have always been thoroughly unimpressed with Cedar Key as a port of call. Bob does a good job detailing the lack of dockage below, but also note that the principal (but not the only) entrance cut, Seahorse Key Channel, contains an “S” loop that has to be seen to be believed. Even if you know it’s there and are watching for this hazard, it’s easy to run aground.
I recently visited Cedar Key by land. While you can anchor there are no docks to tie up at. I also believe the anchorages don’t provide any shelter. I talked to a sailor that keeps a boat at about the only decent slip at the Cedar Cove Hotel. The harbor there was badly damaged in a hurricane several years ago and has not been fixed. The town is not boat friendly. They got money to build a dock and made the surface so high there is no way to tie up but it does function as a fishing pier. There is a nice sheltered harbor but it has a low bridge across the entrance so larger boats can’t get into it. It’s a real shame because the town is very interesting and like a small scale version of Key West. There are lots of good restaurants, art shops, etc. You can see more at my blog post at http://bobduthie.wordpress.com/2011/03/06/ Bob Duthie Katy Leigh 36GB Classic http://www.greatloopcruising.com
My wife and I spent our honeymoon at Cedar Key in the summer of 1987. We’ve been back once, for our 10 year anniversary, in 1997. We remember it as being quaint and quiet, with very friendly people, (two or three different families invited us to their homes for dinner during our original stay!) great restaurants, fantastic local art, all with a very out of the way feel. We also remember it being not very boat friendly, at least where non-commercial fishing and non-trailer-boat interests were concerned. Weekends, the place filled with trailer-boaters from nearby Gainesville and Ocala. While we were there, one sailboat was in the ‘˜anchorage’ (the outer part; the low bridge over the entrance to the very tiny harbor had about 15′ of clearance.) staying only two or three nights. We were left with the impression, rightly or wrongly, that the folk there are happy with the way things are, that facilities to draw in cruising yachts aren’t really wanted. It would seem little has changed. Bill & Lisa Ballard
During our trips to the Steinhatchee River, Sea Had has always seemed to us to be the most welcoming spot for cruising size craft.
We greatly enjoyed Sea Hag Marina close to the mouth of the Steinhatchee River. I am not sure if they allow liveaboards or not. They had a nice laid back attitude . A lot of small charter fishing boats go out from from there and it was fun watching the fishermen come in, in the evenings with their catches. It seemed like the whole town would gather at the fish cleaning stations to check out the catches . Glenn & Joanne Dean River Rats
I would guess , that Sea Hag has about 50 to a 100 wet slips . They can accommodate deeper draft boats on the ends of their docks. The person who said there’s not a lot to do is right. Its a small community , in the middle of nowhere. If you are looking for a lot of action , you would get bored pretty quick. But that’s what we liked about it, was its small town atmosphere . Glenn & Joanne Dean River Rats
Sea Hag is really the only marina on the Steinhatchee River that is really geared towards cruising craft 34 feet and larger.
NEW FUELING SYSTEM ‘“ Sea Hag Marina now has fueling on the entire first T-Dock! THis allow for fueling at the channels edge where most of the large transients tie up. Danielle Norwood
The messages below have been copied from the AGLCA mail list. Captain Tom gives some very good advice about crossing the “waterwayless” Big Bend region of the Sunshine State, particularly his note about lower than normal tides during the fall months. Some of the other messages reproduced below give very specific info concerning some of the Big Bend rivers and ports of call. There is a wealth of good data in these notes, which is worth the attention of anyone planning on cruising these waters.
There are some good points made recently on crossing the Gulf and going around the Big Bend. Bob Stone has said it very well. One thing to not forget is that come October and November, the “winter tides” set in as the prevailing winds shift from the northeast and blow the Big Bend channels and the Panhandle dry. This is typically 1-2 feet below the charted low water level. High tides are essential for going in or out of channels and those are 14 hours apart when the daylight hours are less. My fellow Loopers aren’t mentioning what month they were successful in using these Big Bend channels, but today would be an excellent choice. The folks at St. Marks may not agree that they are a good spot to be in a hurricane storm, even a small one. They certainly got beat up a few years ago. Most of the town was flooded as were the docks. More as the typical “crossing time” approaches, Meanwhile, stay safe, Tom
Our boat draws five feet and we have been to Steinhatchie and Cedar Key. We need one foot above low tide to clear the Steinhatchee channel. The floating green channel marker is in the area of least depth. There was only one floating marker in the channel. The others were fixed. We can not access Cedar Key via the North West channel. It has shoaled in. The Main Ship Channel is deep enough for us to access Cedar Key. Pay close attention to Skipper Bob’s directions for the Main Ship channel as you converge on the North West channel. Suggest mid tide or better for both locations. Jim & Pam Shipp aboard Silver Boots
We will hopefully be crossing around November 7th. We draft 3′ 6″, but are still concerned about the depths if we take the big bend route. We would also like to do the crossing with someone else. We will be on our 3rd leg of a half loop (left from Illinois and will end up in South Carolina. Our 43ft. Wellcraft San Removed is currently at Demopolis Yacht Basin ready to depart on October 31st. We would love to meet up with anyone going that way. We plan on reaching Apalachicola by the following weekend for the seafood festival. Jenny
Can only speak for St. Marks. After you cross the center chanel, go north through 63 buoys (approximately 7 miles). The St. Marks River is well marked and maintained by the CG. The CG keeps it dredged to 10 or 12 feet (up to buoy 63). There are 4 tides a day and are usually in the 1.5 feet range. Both Lynns Marina and Shields Marina are friendly and can dock your vessel. Just up the Wakulla River is the St. Marks Yacht Club and Shell Island Fish Camp. Shell Island Fish Camp is too shallow for your draft. It is an easier walk from Shields to a small store and 2 restaurants. 4.5′ draft is no problem. Both Marinas & the Yacht Club are good places to get out of a Gulf storm. Good luck. Douglas
We made this run with no problems in a boat that only goes 15 knots (but it’s bigger) and there’s nothing particular about doing it Northbound. You do want to arrive in daylight though. Use PassageWeather – http://passageweather.com/ and click to get the Gulf of Mexico graphical forecasts, then scroll down to the bottom of the page to the wave height forecast and click “animate” so ti will show forecast wave heights for up to one week out, by segments of the days. I have found it to be better than NOAA or other weather sites for Gulf wave height forecasts. Doug
I have said it before, and will probably say it many times again. If you get six veteran Western Florida cruisers together, they will express seven different opinions about the best way to cross the Sunshine State’s waterwayless “Big Bend” region. There are two basic strategies. You can cut the corner and head straight for Carrabelle or Panama City (if you are northbound), or for Anclote Key and Tarpon Springs (if you are southbound), OR follow the coastline around as it curves, staying well offshore. The advantage of the “corner cutting” route is that it’s shorter, and the “Big Bend Route” allows you to duck into one of the coastal rivers if the weather turns nasty. However, all of the Big Bend rivers have shallow, sometimes tortuous entrance channels. Few know these waters better than Captain Alan Lloyd, so I’ve copied his note below from the AGLCA mailing list.
I would not wish make a 180 mile run across open water in a 25 foot boat. For one thing, I could not be certain the weather would be consistent all the way across. As a minimum, I would make an intermediate stop at Steinhatchee. A second option would be stops at Crystal River and Steinhatchee. Although a 20 mile side trip, Crystal River is a popular stop for loopers and manatees! A third option is a stop at Suwannee River. This is halfway between Tarpon Springs and Carrabelle. Loopers do not normally include Suawannee River since the entrance is too shallow but I believe a C-Dory could make it in and then enjoy 20 miles up river to Springs State Park. I have made this crossing three times using each of the above options. Alan Lloyd Author, Great Loop Navigation Notes
I’ve only crossed once, and going south ‘“ but we made the crossing in a 23’ 5’ cuddy-walkaround with a single 225 HP outboard with a WOT top speed of ~35-37MPH. It was at the end of June (2008) and indeed, we ran into weather. Weather bad enough to cause us to look for a safe harbor; and we found one that no one ever talks about or mentions ‘“ Horseshoe Beach. Luckily, we worked our way there with sufficient tide to navigate the channel in a skinny part of the Gulf. A call to `anyone familiar with the Horseshoe Beach channel’ gave us the confidence to run the channel after a Sea Tow operator answered our call. Aside from what Alan mentioned, and Horseshoe Beach at higher tide, I know of no alternatives for a safe haven. (There’s the Withlacoochee River, but that’s not too far north of your departure and near Crystal River.) Since the storm we tried to avoid gave us some warning, we were already trying to stay closer to shore than originally planned. Our crossing was fine without the storm and many similar size boats make it easily. That doesn’t mean that you may not want to stop and smell the roses. It’s just those darn storms and sometimes higher winds that require vigilance and good risk management skills are in order. Stats and info from log: (We only went from Carrabelle, to my home inHudson Florida.)
‘¢ Total mile run expected to cross the Gulf, (slip-to-slip) o 170 ‘¢ Total miles to actually cross the Gulf to the Sea Pines channel marker #1 o 188 ‘¢ Total elapsed hours from Carrabelle, through Horseshoe Beach, to mooring at Hudson public docks o 11 ½, including about a 2-hour layover in Horseshoe Beach ‘¢ Average underway speed across the Gulf o 20.8 statute MPH (18.1 knots) ‘¢ Total gallons of fuel to top off the tank at the near-completion of our journey (including replenishment of the 3 extra gallons we carry for emergencies, and used) o 99.5 ‘“ the fuel tank holds 101
As you can see, the seas slowed us drastically from the WOT capabilities of the boat. BTW, Horseshoe Beach has virtually no services except a restaurant where we had the best Gulf shrimp I’ve ever had in my life. Kitty Nicolai
I made this run in Dec 2008 – same direction you’re travelling. Due to sea conditions we had to seek a safe haven. We went into the Steinhatchee River. This is a friendly port as long as you enter and depart in daylight. We left Steinhatchee the next day and completed the trip into Appalachicola. Gary
For those who have never ventured north of Clearwater and Anclote Key on the Western Florida shoreline, be advised there is NO protected intracoastal waterway that serves this section of the Florida coastline. So, to cross this section, a basic choice must be made. You can either cut the corner and head straight for Carrabelle and Dog Island (or Apalachicola, or Panama City), or you can follow the Big Bend coastline around, staying SEVERAL miles offshore to avoid the huge shelf of shallows that extend out into the Gulf’s waters in this region. The former route puts you well out to sea (or “Gulf” in this case), and is often undertaken at night by southbounders to avoid arriving at the crab pot infested waters near Anclote Key after dark. If bad weather threatens, you may be out of luck. The nearer shore, or, as it’s often called, “Big Bend Route” has the advantage of allowing mariners to duck in to the various rivers which penetrate this section of the Sunshine State’s coastline, but all of these have long, sometimes tortuous entrance channels, and none are what could accurately be described as “deep.” Get four experienced cruisers together to talk about crossing the Big Bend, and you will get at least five opinions, maybe six. So, in that vein, below is an exchange which originally appeared on the GL (Great Loop) mail list.
You have to run out a few miles off shore before running up and down thecoast but otherwise, no special navigation issues are present. Back in the days before GPS and depth sounders, the long low coast was probably much more difficult to deal with. But with a chart plotter and keeping track of where you are on the charts, there is nothing particularly difficult. Cedar Key was the most complicated area and as long as you took your time and stayed in the channel, it wasn’t too difficult. St Marks Channel is unlikely to be much help as a bail out point. It’s so far off the route, that it’s almost always closer to turn back or forge ahead. Unless the wind and waves left that as the only reasonable direction to travel, but with it being a daytime crossing, wait for a good weather window and it shouldn’t be a problem. Yes, the weather report isn’t always right, but waiting can minimize the chance of problems and it’s not a sin to turn back if it’s worse than expected. Lose power off just about any coast and you may be in trouble. Assuming you are running in 6-8 ft of water, and conditions aren’t bad, it should be relatively simple to drop the hook and sort things out without running aground. Unless you want to do an overnight run (or are fast enough to run to Tarpon Springs during daylight), I highly recommend the coastal route [Big Bend Route] for a nice look at what Florida used to look like before it got overbuilt. Mike & Tammy Valhalla II
I agree with you Mike. My boat only drafts three feet but it would not have been difficult with a deeper drafted boat. And, the rivers of the big bend should not be missed in my humble opinion. Steinhatchee (rhymes with bean) and St Marks were beautiful!! If I had to do it again I think I’d pass on Carrabelle and stay in Apalachicola. Something had taken the life/hope out of the people I met in Carrabelle (could have just been an off day for the locals). Besides that it’s not hard navigating and since I was solo and on a slow boat it made sleeping easier! Ken
There has been a lively discussion over the past several days on the GL (Great Loop) list about cruising the “Big Bend” section of the Western Florida coastline. If you are not familiar with this region, there is NO intracoastal waterway that serves the Big Bend region. So, if you’re northbound, cruisers must either cut the corner and head straight across the Gulf for Carrabelle/Dog Island or Panama City (to name only two possible Panhandle ports of call), OR follow the coastline as it curves to the west, staying WELL offshore to avoid the broad band of shallows that extends well seaward from this section of the Sunshine State’s coastline. Ask any three cruisers what is the best strategy to cross the Big Bend, and you’ll hear four opinions. So, with that in mind, please peruse what our fellow cruisers are saying below, and join in this discussion by clicking the “Comment on This Posting/Marina/Anchorage/Bridge” link below.
Okay, I need to collective knowledge of the group again. It was invaluable leaving the keys. I’m in St Pete for a few days then river hopping up to Steinhatchee River to do the crossing to Carrabelle. What is the best weather window and easiest way to do this? I really appreciate the help here!! Thanks!! Ken
Joanne and I did it a few years ago , but opposite from you . We had anchored out from Carrabelle , Early that morning NOAA was saying the seas would lay down around 12:00 , so we started out in rough seas. As we passed Dog Island , we agreed then, that either the seas would lay down or we would anchor at Dog Island , but we were not going to lose sight of Dog unless we got calm water . Just like NOAA promised the seas laid down at lunch time , to the point it was so calm we we even went on plan for a while , to make up time. Except for the shallow spots , it was smooth sailing . Getting into Steinhatchee and not running aground was quite a job . There was very little water even in the channel. Whole crossing was around 12 hours Glenn
Sea Hag Marina is an Old Florida style marina [in the village of Steinhatchee on the Steinhatchee River]. In fact the whole community is Old Florida . In the evenings the old men wander down to the marina to see what the fishermen brought in . Its a nice laid back kind of place. There’s only one anchorage in Steinhatchee and its a small one . We anchored there one night and I being worried about letting out to much rode , didn’t let out enough and we dragged a little . Our next visit we stayed at Sea Hag . Glenn
We did it Carrabelle to Cedar, and the next day to Caladesi State Park. First day is a long one, left before down in the fall, but 2nd day was not so bad, time wise. See you on the Waterways! Capt. Sterling
Have things changed in the last couple years? When we went in there was a well marked channel with 8′ the whole way in. Don’t remeber what the tide stage was but it’s only around 3′ so unless you hit it at dead low tide or you have a 6’+ draft, it shouldn’t be much of a problem getting in. We enjoyed our stay at Sea Hag Marina. I would recommend calling ahead as all but the outer slips dry out at low tide. Mike & Tammy
Cedar Key, not personally my favorite port of call in the Flroida’s Big Bend region, is served by two channels. The Seahorse Key channel makes in from the Gulf of Mexico on a more or less west to east axis. There is an unbelievable “S” turn in this passage, which, even if you know it’s there, can still lead to your keel meeting up with the bottom. The Northwest Channel, which is subject of Captain Roussel’s note below, is convenient for vessels southbound along the Big Bend coastline, but, as you will see, there has been some shoaling along the way in this passage.
We came out the Cedar Key Northwest Channel on 4/20/10. I believe that it is possible that there has been some additional shoaling. However, this is in a fairly narrow area between markers 20 and 22. I did some sounding from the dinghy the day before and found from the dinghy that the best water was on the `red side’ of the channel as the Dickersons’ found. When we departed I anticipated more depth based on the soundings but `bumped’ while trying to hug the reds. Not sure if I missed a spot in the dinghy or if the winds the night before had lowered the water a bit. We draw about 4’8’³ and the predicted tide was a 2.5′ intermediate high when we left. We spoke to a Sea Tow captain the day before and he said we should not have a problem on a high high, but would only give a maybe on the intermediate high. We confirmed the maybe. Bill Roussel Nena II Island Packet 35
Crystal River is a beautiful body of water to cruise. In addition to the anchorages referred to below by Captain Richter, you can moor at King Bay Marina/Pete’s Pier, in the town of Crystal River.
You’ll love Crystal River. The only tricky part navigation-wise is just at the outer marker, several miles out in the gulf. Low-water depth there can be around 4-4.5 feet. There are other shallow areas, but if you made it past the outer markers, you’ll make it all the way in. I don’t know about dockage, but there are several popular areas to anchor up near the town. You’ll see the boats anchored, mostly local sailboats. The springs provide tons of cool fresh water that the Manatees and the local divers and snorkelers love. You can easily anchor within swimming distance to some of the springs. Mark Richter, Winnie the Pooh,
Enjoy exploring St Marks on foot and by dink as we wait for he gulf to settle down before moving on to Steinhatchee. A lot like s Louisiana with palmettos. Kid told me they filmed the Tarzan movies on the St marks River above where we’re tied up. No condos, no frills. Just raw beauty. You don’t need to know the name to find the BBQ joint and my friend, Lisle, swears it’s the best he’s eaten outside his native Texas. Make a mean crab cake sandwich as well. Passable if not exquisite key lime pie at the Riverside Cafi. Bo Lynn’s grocery and hardware is limited but a one for one book exchange replenished the ship’s library. Diesel and corn-free gas, maintenance, 70 cents/foot transient available at Shields Marina, a first class operation and the only evidence of the 21st century in the town that time barely remembers. You don’t accidentally get here by land or sea on the way somewhere else; you have to choose it as a destination. Regards. Larry
The posting below is longer than what we usually put up on the Cruisers’ Net. However, it is such an excellent account of the often memorable (for good AND bad reasons) experience of crossing Western Florida’s waterwayless “Big Bend” region, I’ve posted the text below in its entirety. Note that this posting is copied from the AGLCA mail list with Captain Quince’s permission
A fellow cruiser has inquired about our Gulf Crossing so I thought I’d chronicle it for him and share it. We arrived at Dog Island hoping for anchorage as the trip across St George Sound Bay had been a rough ride. We started east okay in one footers but after starting to fight the tide at the bridge, the next bit of open water continued to build until we met the confused waters between Dog Island and St George Island. Waves coming from both directions really kicked us around. Then the Shipping Cove turned out to be too rough to anchor so we turned and cranked up the engines heading to Carrabelle. The next day brought heavy fog and about noon, a flotilla of Loopers left in a short clearing window. We wondered if we should have gone but the rough water the day before made us wonder. We disconnected power and threw off our lines about 3 0-clock to head out to the anchorage again and abruptly stopped as the fog moved back in. Listened to Hank on Queen Anne’s Revenge come across the bay and up the channel in thick fog. The talked to Mint Julep who anchored in the cove but neither boat ever saw the other. The Fog never lifted. We contacted Queen Ann and agreed to leave the following day about 1pm to head out to Dog, thinking we’d pick up Mint Julep as well. (never did as they had moved on the night before) Heavy fog stayed with us the whole day so at 1 we headed out anyway, slowly down the channel from the Moorings to Pick up Queen Ann at C-Quarters. They pulled out and led the way as Hank had good experience the previous day but more likely his experience with using radar as a pilot! It was interesting going out the channel as we met a 90 foot research vessel coming in and a couple of other boats as well. Not really a problem going slow, watching radar and working your way out. After Dog Island, Twins took the lead on a waypoint at Clearwater Pass. Queen Ann intended to drop off about 4 am and head to Tarpon Springs. The advice we’d received from various sources recommended you be 2 to 3 hours offshore at daybreak so you can see and avoid the crab pots. There are also mileage from the coast guidelines and depth guidelines that help guide where you will start finding them. Like 20-30 miles and less than 30-40 foot depth but I’m not particularly sure of those numbers. So we set a course and started out at 8 knots, later cutting back so we didn’t arrive too early. The fog stayed thick and with us for quite a while, about half the way. Boats were about a half to a mile apart and we could see their lights most of the time. Sometimes disappearing into the fog and other times more clearly. We turned on Christmas lights on the bridge to help light the way, 5 strings of white LED lights that draw less than 20 watts total. We also turned on the inverter and settled into our salon for most of the trip. About 8 0-clock I turned on the TV and we had satellite reception all across the bend. How to stay awake for 22.5 hours crossing. Yes, it’s a long day..normal wake up at 7am, departure at 1pm, arrival to private dock on Treasure Island at 11:30 am and then up until about 8pm..what’s that, about 37+ hours! We had rested fairly well at Carrabelle. Vaughn bought a 12 pack of diet pepsi to help stay awake. I make some coffee. You’re wired at first with the fog. Then darkness descends. You set the autopilot and stare at the radar screen. The best part of the crossing may be the other boat nearby. Waves were rolling us for the first few hours, then it seemed to calm more about midnight and the crossing eased. Vaughn and I took turns at the wheel (actually the radar screen). We ran the boat from above at first and then moved below after darkness. You can pretty well see miles ahead of you with the radar so staring at the screen seems useless. One of us would take the helm, the other watched TV and/or snoozed. We each had about 3 cat naps, the longest was probably an hour and a half. We snacked on sandwiches. I had a coffee about 10 pm and Vaughn had a few pepsi’s. About 3:30 am Queen Ann slowed down and turned off toward Tarpon Springs, and we redirected for John’s Pass..they would not arrive at their destination until 11:30 due to very heavy fog..Hank’s now the expert! Stars were first seen in the wee hours and a welcome sight, then more fog. We were lucky in that the fog lifted at daybreak. We never saw any crab pots until sunrise, then we saw a new line every minute. Daybreak and the sunrise are especially welcome after such a passage. My wife, Vaughn get’s to see so few sunrises anyway! We never saw any other boats on the crossing either. It’s possible that one or two targets on the radar were other boats but they were never closer than about 5 miles. It was a fairly comfortable crossing but at some point I’d reset the autopilot to go to Clearwater and thought I’d arrived at John’s Pass. Took us a little time and phone call to our friends to understand our mistake, then we just motored down the ICW, an enjoyable ride. That afternoon we baked in the sun until we jumped in their pool..freezing at 70 degrees it was not..very refreshing and just what we needed! So, in hindsight, I could have probably just relocated to Shipping Cove in the fog but you do get a good night’s sleep at the dock. We could have started later and maintained our 8 knots but that would only make about an hour or two’s difference or so. Longer or shorter travels don’t matter that much over such a time and distance when on autopilot (The boat and the crew). Our trip was 195 miles. The waves and winds treated us fairly. Fog sucked but what can you see in the dark anyway? No moon so it would be dark. Next time I want clear skies, a full moon and the millpond sea! All that to say we did it with caffeine and cat naps. Bring on the Keys and Bahamas Forget Hell!!
For those who have never before cruised the Big Bend region of Western Florida before (north of Anclote Key and Clearwater, and south of Dog Island and Carrabelle), there is NO protected inland waterway that serves this region. Thus, cruisers, must either follow the coastline around, keeping WELL offshore, or cut the corner and head straight for their destination. Either way, crab pots can be a real problem for cruisers, particularly in the dark. The question and two answers below are copied from the AGLCA mailing list, and give good info on successfully navigating these wide open (but shallow) waters.
How have the crab pots been recently for those that have crossed during the day? How about at night? I note that there will not be much of a moon this weekend as it’s waning towards a new moon on wednesday the 16th. Are you using a light to try and spot them? Also, re you trying to stick closer to the coast by going to R”2″, or just charting a direct line? Seems like when you’re out that far already, the direct course wouldn’t be that different as the wind and waves go. Any other thoughts or guidance is much appreciated! Thanks to those that have gone before! Jim (crossing virgin)
Jim, We made a direct daylight crossing, Govt Cut in Appalachicola to Clearwater on Nov 14. We found a minimum (from our standards) number of crab pots for about the last 4-6 miles. They were doable. You just have to figure out on which degree heading the crabber set his traps and then “thread the needle” following that heading. In general, the crabbers don’t usually set their traps in more than 40 feet of water and more than 12 miles from the coast (it is too much work for them). However in the Big Bend the water is so shallow all that changes. Safe Travels, Fred Clarkson “Perfect Remedy”
Jim, We crossed a couple of weeks ago on a direct line from Apalachicola to Clearwater at night and started seeing crabpots about 35 miles out and picked up from there. We left gov cut around 4 PM and arrived at Clearwater around 11am next morning and had to offset our approach due to the sun glare in order to see the crabpots but we made it OK. Steve Wood Here and Now at Cape Haze, Fl
First, Michael and Jana’s advice about departing south over the Big Bend region, from Tysons Harbor on Dog Island, is a really good idea. Tysons makes for an excellent anchorage, and you are right at the jumping off point whenever you choose to turn your bow south. Sea Hag Marina is the only facility really fitted out for cruising size craft on the Steinhatchee River. As long as you remain the in marked entrance channel, depths should not be a problem on the Steinhatchee. This is one of the deepest of the Big Bend streams.
Second Star and Emotion III crossed from Dog Island two days ago. As predicted the first six hours were pretty lumpy then it smoothed out. Trip took 10 hours (6 knots) so we left in dark. First we shot the pass and left a bread crumb trail the day prior so the dark passage was at least well plotted. Next time I would leave from Tyson’s Harbor on the far east side of Dog Island which would eliminate the pre dawn departure. The charts don’t show it but that exit is very well marked. We stayed at Sea Hag Marina and experienced no problems getting in. We arrived two hours before high tide. Michael & Jana La Porte m/v SECOND STAR
We stayed for a few days at SeaHag Marina in May 2010. Three sailboats plus one trawler. No problems with depth in or out. The Marina was very accomodating, arranging a pick up to give us a ride to a local restaurant. They also provided a ride to the local IGA. Rustic but a great stopover. Bob Dorman
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