Robert Sherer on Water Levels
Heading down the ICW, everyone pays close attention to the tides when navigating through the shallow spots but few pay attention to the effects of wind on the level of the water. Most everyone knows that an east wind will raise water and perhaps cause flooding and a west wind will push water out and make the shallow spots even more difficult. Who hasn’t looked at a posting on depth and then patted themselves on the back when they found deeper water (what a great navigator I am…) or been surprised when the opposite happened (the poster obviously was out to lunch…)
Have you ever wondered the basis for NOAA’s warnings on coastal flooding? Well, NOAA has particular buoys outfitted with water level monitors that give a reading of water height vs the predicted height from tide tables. If you know how to access the data, you too can benefit. For example, you may have 3 extra feet of depth in passing through the shallows south of Fernandina (or three feet less!) You have to know which buoys have the data you want and then how to access it, it’s not a one click operation. I’ve compiled a list of buoys reporting water heights that would be useful for negotiating the ICW but first an example. We were in Hampton, VA when Joaquin came through off shore and produced 25 to 35 kt east winds for two days which you would expect to push water levels higher than normal. We were on floating docks so we had some concern about just how high the surge would be so we watched a NOAA water level buoy site for that information. Here’s a typical plot:
The line of interest is the purple plot showing the delta between the predicted tide height (blue line) and the actual water height (red line). You can see that on 10/4/2015 the water was 3.5 ft higher than predicted by the tide tables!
This information is available all along the ICW from selected weather buoys and can be helpful when passing through areas where you really need to know the real depth accurately. That purple line above can be minus too in a strong west wind! One more example:
I have a 55.3 ft mast and I like to use the Cape May canal to reach Delaware Bay. I need to know the actual water height before going through since from past experience in normal weather the height boards read 58 ft at 0.0 predicted tide. In my fall of 2015 trip down, we had a strong east wind and the height board only read 56.5 ft at low tide! The low tide can actually be 3 ft higher than the tide tables! Now 56.5 ft is enough for my 55.3 ft mast but may not be enough for others. So here’s the list of stations I find useful with links:
Cape May Canal
Hampton
Charleston
Savannah
Fernandina Beach
You can click on “Show Data Listing” for the numbers in addition to the plots. I’ve noticed that when accessed on my iPad I get all three plots but when looked at on my laptop I only get the red and blue lines but I always use my iPad anyway. When planning your next passage, it never hurts to check on the predicted tide height vs actual, it only takes a minute and it could save you a lot of grief.
Robert Sherer (aka Bob423)
Author of “2015 ICW Cruising Guide” available on Amazon.com
You can follow our adventures down the ICW at fleetwing.blogspot.com
Comments from Cruisers (9)
We sail our 36-ft sailboat from Fort Myers Beach to Key West regularly, but do it as one twenty-two hour passage at 5.5 kt. It’s 28 miles longer than from Naples – obviously an over-nighter for us.
We have also gone to Marco and left at 4 am and arrived before dark the same day, sailing straight line. It does take you offshore a bit.
You can get from Marco to Marathon all in daylight. You can probably do it from Naples, too, if you can go eight kts. I have a good set of waypoints I’ll send you if you like. You need to know where you are going through the Moser Channel 7-mile bridge to Marathon. One big drawback of this passage in December is that this section of Florida Bay from Cape Romano to Marathon is wall-to-wall stone crab traps. It’s like going through a thirty mile-slalom course unless you’re not concerned with snagging a trap.
It’s a good day’s run from Marathon to Key West, either on the inside if your draft allows it, or on the Hawk Channel between the Keys and the barrier reef.
Jay Light
S/V ALBORADA
Ft. Myers Beach
Bob,
The trip from Naples to the Keys is very simple. We did it last year in our 45′ sailboat with a 5′ draft. We did an overnight from Marathon to Naples a distance of less than 100 nm and then from Charlotte Harbor back to Key West which is less than 150 nm. The distance from Naples to Key West isn’t much different than to Marathon. Assuming you run around 10 kts it is an easy day trip. The water once you get out of Gordon Pass in Naples is mostly 10-30′ deep (some deeper) until you get to Key West where there are multiple shoals and islets so you will need to plan which channel you need to take to were you’re going at Key West. My suggestion is to pick a good weather day and do the trip in a day unless you want to do some other sight seeing along the way. At 4′ you shouldn’t have any issues as long as you watch your charts. Also, the waters around south Florida and the Keys are full of crab and lobster pots along with fish traps so you will need to keep a good watch. We did overnights and had no problems.
Avoid the Marinas!! This is the prettiest part of Florida, and should be ANCHORED OUT to enjoy.
You can go on the inside from Naples to Marco, then outside around Johnson Shoals (east of Marco Island is a bit skinny water, but the shrimpers and crab boats do it – I did it with 3′ draft and got out of the channel in the fog and ran aground). After Johnson Shoals, head back east into the ten thousand islands and spend as many days anchored in this beautiful area as your schedule allows – there are dozens of spots just inside the mangrove islands. You can run south along the park boundary markers in good depth, and never be too far from a safe anchorage. After you get to the Little Shark River, I always head directly to the keys, via the yacht channel, and then run the north side to the keys to Key West.. There is a brief interval just before arrival in Key West Northwest Channel where you have to go in unprotected waters, so wait for calm or some direction other than North wind for that.
Ben, made that trip last January. We went from Marco Island to Little Shark River, overnight anchorage, then down to 7 mile bridge and turned west for Key West. Shark River to Key West took about 10 hours. We cruised at 7-8 knts. Winds normally are easterly and we left Shark River at first light to take advantage of the light winds. By the time we turned west the winds had picked up considerable but then they were a following sea, 3-5 ft. And 10-11 secs apart so ride was ok. We were prepared to spend several nights at Shark River if winds dictated. Pick a good 2 day weather window.
The last time I cruised Florida Bay was late August 1980, Marathon to Naples, but then the chief hazard other than weather was the lobster or crab traps, some with buoys just under the surface. Thousands of them! You may want to add cutter blades to your shafts.
We always do it as a straight shot overnight. It is just under 100 nautical miles Naples pier to Key West. I use 5 knots for planning but unless weather is ugly do about 6.5 so 15-20 hours from Naples. Weather matters. Pick a cold front and ride south BEHIND it a day or 2. Typically we leave Ft Myers at noon; off Naples at 5P and NW Channel next morning, arrive Key west noon. So no ‘real’ navigating in dark. Set the gps/autopilot on the NW Channel bell buoy, Current runs west to east there so a little westing early is useful. The shrimp boats, if any, are lit up like downtown and there is nothing else out there (actually there are a couple of air force relay towers but you won’t likely even see them- google air force relay towers to find exact coordinates). Pay attention to the breakwater at the entrance to the NW Channel (don’t do this at night unless you have a good chart plotter). You can jump along the coast but it is longer as the coast moves significantly East south of Cape Romano. Marco isn’t far enough from Naples to help the cause; Goodland is better but you will need to worry about tide levels coming out by Coon Key. (Running the inside from Marco to Goodland is great but watch tides- 4′ draft is the upper end of what I’d be comfortable with especially in December ) If you anchor out there are good spots at Panther and Indian. Everglades City is nice but again 4′ is the upper limit of my comfort zone and you will lose time going up and down the river. Most folks I know push on to Little Shark, anchor out, and then jump to Marathon. Good Luck. Florida Bay can be mirror calm or a mess.
Ben:
You will definitely have to watch the water depth on the west side of the keys but you should be ok. I have done the “inside” of the keys a couple of times on my Fleming 55 with a 5′ draft. We try to time the shallow areas at high tide but still “touched” bottom a couple of times (I love a big keel!). It was a bit tight for us but you’ll have another foot of comfort so you should be fine. Just go slow and feel your way when it gets shallow – plus make sure your depth sounder is accurately calibrated.
Definitely wait for a very good weather day – not just one that looks ok or good enough.
A couple of points to consider:
The open water distance to either Marathon or Key West is not very different – they are very much open water. Depending on your speed the time difference direct to Key West is only around an hour or so longer.
Many days the fast ferry runs to Key West so there is some comfort knowing at least one boat will be in the vicinity for part of the travel if you go direct to Key West.
If you go to Marathon definitely make a reservation/late arrival arrangements ahead of time. Sometimes space can be limited and they could be gone when you arrive – dock space at the city facility is very limited however the mooring field is amazing in size. I believe the mooring field doesn’t take reservations but we have been able to get reservations on their dock. There are other facilities there but we have only stayed on the dock at the city marina.
Ask around to see if you can find a “buddy” boat to travel along with – may be difficult to find but always nice if you can.
Key West is a great location and you will definitely enjoy it. We’re spending the month of March there again this year and will travel the same route from Naples area straight to Key West.
Don’t hesitate to call or email if you have any questions.
Regards,
Curtis
Get as far south as possible, maybe the Rod and Gun Club at Everglades City, or Calusa Island Marina at Goodland, but certainly no further north than Marco Island.
Then head for middle of the keys, say Marathon area . Leave at daybreak although I am not sure of your speed. We’ve done the Marco to Key West, but we can cruise at 15 knots and that makes a big difference.
Watch your wind forecast. You will get some break from easterly winds if you go down through Florida Bay and close in to Cape Sable. All this being said, it has been a few years since I have made the trip. Lets see what really comes in from some folks who may have made the trip more recently.
Winston Fowler
I had a sailboat that made around 5 knots and drew 5.5 feet. I started out in Fort Myers Beach, and day tripped down the west coast to Everglades City. I had no difficulty in finding safe harbors that would accommodate my draft, but beyond Everglades City, there were no other anchorages that were deep enough.
I and stayed at the Rod and Gun club, and spent a day exploring the town. Watch the overhead power cable. Locals indicated that it was lower than 65 feet, and they took great pleasure in seeing sailboaters come to grief there. Not sure if their info was correct, but just be aware.
Since there were no deep harbors between Everglades City and Key West, I planned on making an overnight trip to Key West. I staged just outside of the river, and departed at 3:30 PM. Got into Key West at 10 AM. Crab pots weren’t a huge problem.
Good luck with the trip.