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De Gallant was built of steel at a Dutch shipyard in 1916. She had been carrying freight for the Blue Schooner Company since 2017.
Our sincerest thanks to Greg and Barbara Allard for once again sharing their thoughts and beautiful photography from their Bahamas cruises. These photos and descriptions will have you aching to follow in Meander‘s wake! For more of this excellent photography, type Allard in our Homepage search window for letters from previous cruises.
BAHAMAS 2024-#2 MAY 8, 2024
Live passionately, even if it kills you, because something is going to kill you anyway. -Webb Chiles ——————————————————————————— Hello everyone. We left Great Harbour Cay in the Berry islands about a week ago, and after another bumpy, windy, salty 78 mile open-ocean crossing, we arrived at Spanish Wells off the northern end of Eleuthera, in the Far Bahamas. Before we visit Spanish Wells with you, there are still several people from Great Harbour whom we would like you to meet.
This six-year-old Bahamian boy, Jamal, was fascinated with our electric bikes, as Barbara explained the various controls. It was clear that he was sharp: he understood them all right away.
Jamal, and his beautiful proud mother Joelle. All kids, everywhere, love to mug for the camera.
One of our favorite adventures – a dingy expedition to a remote beach. This one is on Cistern Cay, and this place has some history. In the 1970s & 80s, the Bahamas was a major location for the importation of drugs into the U.S. One of the most notorious traffickers was Carlos Lehder, co-founder of the Medellín Cartel. With the assistance of corrupt Bahamian officials, the Bahamas was positioned perfectly to serve as a drug transfer point; it was close to the U.S., and its huge, often remote, coasts. Cistern Cay was one of the islands where Lehder’s operation was based; he built a paved runway on the island. There are the remnants of several small planes which crashed into the shallow waters around the cay. Bad pilots, bad planes…. or overloaded? Even today you can explore his once beautiful but now gutted home, just a short distance from our dinghies. Why gutted? All of the sheet rock walls in the house have been torn open by frustrated treasure seekers who thought that those inner walls would hold large quantities of cash and drugs. Were they really “frustrated”? Which of them will ever admit that they found anything? Today, the U.S. government works closely with the Bahamian officials to continually address the trafficking issues. These days it is not unusual to see a US Coast Guard helicopter pass overhead.
Our long time readers may recognized this gentleman. He is Tramico “Mico” Evans, who lives on Great Harbour and works at the marina. We have known him for years. His personality is as bright as his smile. But on this trip, we realized that we did not know much about him. So we asked him. Mico is 37 years old, the youngest of ten children. Born in Nassau, he was raised on the remote island of Andros. His father cheated on his mother, so to get away from him she took her children, for the summers, to Great Harbor where she had been raised. He has multiple relatives on Great Harbour because of his mother’s connection with the cay. His oldest brother was a police officer in Nassau; when he died, he left his pension to his mother. One of his brothers had a somewhat yellow complexion, which Mico said was “like a ripe mango”; his brother was forever called the “Yellow Man.” Only five of his mother’s ten children (by two different men she never married) are still living.
This is Sand Dollar beach at Shark Creek. At low tide you can walk out far from shore, and with a sharp eye, you can collect dozens of sand dollars – which are a species of flat, burrowing sea urchin. We don’t collect the live ones, which are a darkish color, but we do prize the skeleton of the dead ones, which are mostly about three inches across, have turned white, and have a fascinating pattern in their shell.
Some sand dollars collected a week ago. The five large holes are used to ingest food, and they also allow the urchin to propel itself across the bottom. When they no longer living and look like these, they are quite fragile.
In the next Newsletter we will show you Spanish Wells, north of Eleuthera, where we are right now. We will also be doing one more profile from an individual from Great Harbour, a famous, legendary Bahamian, with an international reputation. Warmest regards to you all. Barbara and Greg Copyright Greg Allard, 2024
Our sincerest thanks to Greg and Barbara Allard for once again sharing their thoughts and beautiful photography from their Bahamas cruises. These photos and descriptions will have you aching to follow in Meander‘s wake! For more of this excellent photography, type Allard in our Homepage search window for letters from previous cruises.
Bahamas – 2024 – #3 May 21, 2024
“I returned, and saw under the sun, that the race is not to the swift, nor the battle to the strong, neither yet bread to the wise, nor yet riches to men of understanding, nor yet favour to men of skill; but time and chance happeneth to them all.” –
Ecclesiastes 9:11
This is Percy Darville, the legendary bone fishing guide who lives on Great Harbour Cay. We have known him for over a decade. He has an international reputation as one of the most respected and successful bonefishing guides anywhere.
A bonefish is a relatively small fish, and adults reach maturity usually around 17” and generally grow to no more than 30” in length. It is a fierce fighter, inhabits very shallow coastal waters and is considered one of the most sought-after game fish which are caught with fly or light fishing tackle. It is a catch-and-release fish, which means they are generally not eaten…likely because the flesh is…. boney.
Percy has said: “I’ve fish Presidents, Movie stars, Writers, Golfers and many many others.”
Jack Nicklaus used to be a regular visitor to Great Harbour, arriving on his large Westport yacht, named Bear, which carried four small shoal (shallow) draft bonefishing boats – named Cub 1, Cub 2, Cub 3 and Cub 4 on its upper deck. Percy was Jack’s regular trusted guide.
Percy on the bonefishing flats, with what is likely a trophy sized fish. This photo is from Percy’s website
Ten years ago at Great Harbour, while I was talking with Percy, he asked if we would like some fresh conch (already removed from the shell – a tedious process.) I said yes, and the next day he showed up at our boat with a bagful. I intended to pay for them, and asked him what he wanted. He said “nothing.” I said: “Percy – this is your business and I want to pay for them.” He said “No, I won’t take any money” and walked away.
Spanish Wells’ north shore. To give you an idea of the scale of this beach, look for the three people farther down on the beach.
Spanish Wells is a separate cay on the north of Eleuthera, a number of miles from Harbour Island. It is one-half mile wide and two miles long, with about 1,800 people living there year-round.
Spanish Wells and Man-O-War cay in the Abacos are the two main cays where the population is largely of white Bahamians. The locals speak with a curious lilting British accent overlaid with Bahamian elements. The majority of people on Spanish Wells earn their living from fishing for crawfish, the spiney Caribbean lobsters – the ones without the big claws of the New England lobster. The photo below is of sunset at Spanish Wells.
You can see two of the big lobster boats in the distance. Those boats are currently in port, being refitted and made-ready for when the lobster season opens on August 1 st . Cruising recreational boats in this harbour (such as ours) represent a clear minority.
That’s why we like Spanish Wells – it’s an authentic Bahamian place.
The other target of the fishing industry on Spanish Wells is the conch. These conch (above) are being held temporarily in a sunken boat and a makeshift pen. The tide is now out, so they are uncovered, but they will be covered with seawater again as the tide returns. This way they are kept fresh for market. They have a beautiful shell with prized meat inside. After the meat is removed, it is tenderized by pounding with a mallet, then breaded and deep fried. Similar to fried calamari, but the flavor is far superior. Yummy.
We took a small ferry over to Eleuthera, rented a car with our friends Jim and Ellen, and toured the island as far south as Governor’s Harbour. We stopped in Gregory Town at our favorite shop, which specializes in baskets made on the remote island of Andros –whose residents are famous for creating the highest quality and most beautiful examples of Bahamian basketmaking.
While at the little shop, we met these two delightful local women (above). The one on the right is Amanda, who works in the shop. The woman on the left is Shurlunda, who proudly described herself as the “Postmistress” of the tiny post office next door.
Some of you surely will remember Kathy; years ago her husband became fatally ill, and wanted her to have a way to earn a living after he passed. He set her up in a small home with a bakery. We hadn’t been to her shop in five years (since we were last in Spanish Wells), so we were thrilled to see her again. One of her specialties is “Johnny cakes”, which Americans would recognize as similar to an English muffin, however it is a bit denser and more flavorful. Bahamians put jam on it, or a slice of cheese.
April was a month of celebration as we reflected on the impact you’ve helped us make in our Outer Banks national parks over the past five years.
We are grateful to everyone who came out to Swells’a Brewing for our birthday party – it was great to see so many of our supporters together, and we officially kicked off our new partnership with Duck Donuts (more details coming soon)!
Last week, I attended the Friends Alliance spring meeting, a virtual gathering of national park partners from around the country. As we learned about topics ranging from environmental justice to how the National Park Service plans to commemorate America250 in 2026 by focusing on inclusive storytelling, I was reminded how special and unique it is that we have three amazing national parks right here in our backyards.
As I talked to my colleagues around the country one thing was clear – our national parks need our support now more than ever. We will continue to celebrate our fifth birthday this year and look ahead to what we want to accomplish in the next five years as our parks continue to face challenges ranging from budget cuts to environmental changes. We’ll be looking to you to learn what you want to see us achieve in our parks, and ways you think we can continue to grow our impact as we work to protect and enhance these special places. Stay tuned!
Our Meet Your Ranger series introduces you to the many amazing people who support our Outer Banks national parks every day!
This month, we’re pleased to introduce you to Mike Anderson, Lead Interpretive Ranger at Fort Raleigh National Historic Site!
Mike’s days are busy as he gives ranger programs, assists visitors, and plans projects and events for the park.
In his free time, Mike enjoys listening to tunes from Broadway musicals, watching “The Crown” and “Jeopardy!”, and 3-D printing movie prop replicas from Star Wars and Marvel movies!
Through our Adopt A Sea Turtle Nest program, you can symbolically adopt one of these active nests!
Here’s how the program works:
Donate: Give a tax-deductible donation of $100 or more to reserve your 2024 sea turtle nest. Your gift will help us fund important projects that protect and enhance the Seashore and the vital habitat it preserves. You will receive a confirmation email for your donation.
Receive your nest assignment: Sea turtles typically start to arrive in May and June, and will continue to arrive until September. As nests become available, you will be assigned your sea turtle nest and receive an adoption certificate by either mail or digitally with initial information about your nest. Please keep in mind that if you reserve a nest in May, you may not receive your initial information until late May, June, or even later depending on how many early adoptions are received.
Wait patiently for your nest to hatch! When your nest hatches later this summer or fall, you will receive a personalized update in the mail with information park rangers collect about your nest including the number of hatchlings that made their way out to sea.
A note about honorary/memorial gifts: If you choose to adopt a nest in honor or in memory of a loved one and provide an honoree’s mailing address on your donation form, a letter with nest information and a certificate will be mailed directly to your honoree. Your honoree will be notified of your gift and will receive a certificate when their nest is assigned, not at the time you make the gift. Please keep this in mind if your gift is time-sensitive.
NEW in 2024 – digital certificates are now available! If you would like to receive an electronic certificate or send an electronic certificate to an honoree, click the box “send certificate digitally” on the donation form and provide an email address.
Please note: No individual or group that participates in this program can claim ownership of a sea turtle nest, eggs, or hatchlings. Nature is also unpredictable. If your adopted nest is lost to a weather event or damaged by some other means, we will assign you a new nest that may or may not be shared with another individual or group. For the safety of the sea turtles and in alignment with National Park Service guidance, your nest’s exact location will not be shared until after it has hatched.
Join us in celebrating the Ocracoke ponies who have May birthdays!
Did you know you can help these beautiful and unique ponies by symbolically adopting one or supporting the herd? Your support helps cover the costs of their ongoing care and feeding. When you Adopt A Pony or support the herd with a gift of $50 or more, you will receive an adoption certificate and a picture of your pony or of the herd to keep!
Note: Our park staff will host a public meeting about the Ocracoke ponies at the Ocracoke Community Center (999 Irvin Garrish Highway, Ocracoke, North Carolina) on Tuesday, May 21, from 1 to 2 p.m. At the meeting, our park staff will seek input on the development of a management plan for the ponies and assistance in identifying issues, concerns, and opportunities. For more information on the meeting, click here.
Winnie – May 3
Winnie is the youngest member of the herd, born in 2018 to her parents, Sacajawea and Captain. She spends her time learning from mom and exploring her island home. The next time you visit the Ocracoke Pony Pens, come say hi!
Jobelle – May 7
Jobelle is the daughter of Ocracoke ponies Jitterbug and Rayo. She was named by the Ocracoke School students; “Jobelle” is the local name for the gaillardia flowers (commonly called “blanket flowers”) which are found throughout the Outer Banks!
Captain – May 9
Captain is a chestnut stallion who was named after the late Captain Marvin Howard, a local Ocracoke Island resident who founded the first — and only — mounted Boy Scout troop in the United States. The boy scouts were responsible for taming and caring for the wild pony herd in the 1950s.
Maya – May 24
Maya is a paint mare who was born in 2000. She has four siblings in the herd and is known to be the tallest and most vocal pony in the Ocracoke herd!
Remember or honor the special people in your life who shared or share your love of our Outer Banks national parks. When you choose the “Donation Dedication” option when you donate, we will send a special acknowledgment to the individual or family you chose notifying them of your thoughtful gift.
Ranger programs are open to visitors of all ages — from the young to the young at heart. No matter your interests, ranger programs offer something for everyone!
To stay up to date with programs and events, check out our parks’ online calendars below:
National Trails Day is an annual event that celebrates the importance of trails in our lives — bike trails, walking trails, multi-use paths, ADA trails, canoe and kayak trails, and more!
Date: Saturday, June 1
Time: 9 a.m. to 11:30 a.m.
Location: Meet at the North End Parking Lot on Roanoke Island. Options for a 1.3 mile and a 2.5 mile walk/hike are available. For more details, click here to see the map.
Make sure to wear comfortable clothing and walking/hiking shoes and sunscreen, and don’t forget your water and bug spray! To RSVP for the event on Facebook, click here.
This reminder from Ted Arisaka: Comment period ends May 20.
Three and a half hours to accommodate “rush hour” vehicle traffic twice daily seems extreme, especially during summer months. Please see Comment Portal link below to submit your opinions. With a closed vertical clearance of 30ft, the Ladys Island Bridge crosses the Waterway at statute mile 536 on the eastern edge of Beaufort. Vessels capable of transiting without an opening may pass under the bridge.
SOUTH CAROLINA – AICW (BEAUFORT RIVER) –LADY’S ISLAND (WOODS MEMORIAL) BRIDGE: Rulemaking / Temporary Deviation: The Coast Guard is proposing to change the operating schedule that governs the Lady’s Island (Woods Memorial) Bridge across the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway (Beaufort River), mile 536.0, at Beaufort, SC. SCDOT has requested a permanent change to the drawbridge operation regulation for the Lady’s Island (Woods Memorial) Bridge. This temporary deviation will test an operating schedule to determine if a permanent change is necessary. Under this temporary deviation, the Lady’s Island (Woods Memorial) Bridge shall open on signal; except that the draw need not open from 6 a.m. to 9:29 a.m. and 3:31 p.m. to 7 p.m., Monday through Friday, except Federal holidays. Between 9:30 a.m. and 3:30 p.m., Monday through Friday, except Federal holidays, the draw need open only once an hour on the half hour. Public vessels of the United States and tugs with tows, will be passed through anytime. This temporary deviation is effective from 12:01 a.m. on March 25, 2024, through 11:59 p.m. on September 29, 2024. A request for comments will be published in the Federal Register. Comments may be submitted under docket number USCG-2024-0198 using Federal Decision Making Portal at https://www.regulations.gov. If you have questions on this rulemaking, call or e-mail Ms. Jennifer Zercher, Bridge Management Specialist, Seventh Coast Guard District, telephone 305-415-6740, email Jennifer.N.Zercher@uscg.mil. LNM: 10/24
Cruisers Net publishes Loose Cannon articles with Captain Swanson’s permission in hopes mariners with salt water in their veins will subscribe.. $7 a month or $56 for the year and you may cancel at anytime.
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