Explorer Chartbooks, A SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET PARTNER, has long been the standard navigational supplement for enjoyable, informative, and safe cruising through the beautiful Bahamian waters and island visits.

Bahamas Chatter: Cruisers not welcome at Little San Salvador
Cruisers not welcome at Little San Salvador
Posted: 15 Apr 2016 04:06 AM PDT
The following letter was received from a cruiser that recently visited Little San Salvador (AKA Half Moon Cay):

My wife and I anchored our 44’ sailing catamaran just West of the Southernmost point on the island in calm conditions on the evening of April 7. On the morning of April 8, a cruise ship arrived and anchored about 1 ½ miles NW of us. Later that morning we were shocked when a 35-40’ flybridge power boat with inboard engines came zooming right at our boat, throwing a huge wake. It past our stern no more than 50’ away, then took a sharp turn along our port side as the captain let off the throttles and let his boat settle, creating an even greater wake. We were too busy grabbing items that were going to fly off of our table and countertops to signal to them. 2 Bahamian men were on the fly bridge, and they went to a mooring that was off shore from us and served as a snorkeling spot for the cruise ship guests. The purpose of the flybridge boat was to carry the guests to that spot. We thought at first that the captain simply didn’t know the “rules of the road” in boating- that he is responsible for any damage created by his wake. At the time, we didn’t take it for what it really was; a clear message that we were not welcome here.
Within the hour we decided to go exploring on our dinghy, and headed East along the shoreline, then up into the creek mentioned above. The creek led to an open bay that is nearly ½ mile wide and about 2 miles long. We were idling along enjoying the scenery when the only other boat on the bay (a small boat with 2 Bahamian crew and 2 cruise ship guests) flagged us down. One of the crew let us know that this waterway was private and that we could not be here. I argued that we were not ashore, nor were we heading ashore, we are ON THE WATER. She insisted that we must leave immediately. Their guests looked as shocked over the incident as we were. We turned and left, angered and feeling that our rights were not being respected; not on the dinghy, and certainly not on our yacht.
Now, I completely understand that land can be purchased and we respect that when cruising. However, I did not realize that the OCEAN and its inlets can be owned by someone. This was not an inland lake, this was an ocean inlet! It’s no different than telling me I can’t have my boat anchored off your island, which we realized was the clear message being given by the flybridge boats rude behavior. Now we were being told in no uncertain terms by the Holland America crew that our dinghy was not allowed on “their” water.
As a human being, I could certainly be wrong about the Bahamian laws, so I’m open to hearing about how areas of the ocean can be purchased by individuals or businesses for private use. But if I’m correct and that is simply absurd, then I look to hear back from Mr. Kruse. Perhaps the next edition of the Explorer chartbooks should be updated to reflect this situation and the way it is responded to.

Our thanks to Greg Allard for this excellent report on Grand Bahama Yacht Club.

Report from the Bahamas : Update on Grand Bahama Yacht Club, Port Lucaya – April 2016

The Grand Bahama Yacht Club is to starboard after you come through the Bell Channel into Port Lucaya. It had been closed for several years, but has now reopened. It is owned by the same company which owns the Port Lucaya Marina, which is to port after you enter the harbor. This year we used Port Lucaya as a layover on our way to the outer Family Islands, and decided to try the Grand Bahama Yacht Club again. It was an excellent experience.

Grand Bahama Yacht Club, Port Lucaya

The Yacht Club is a much quieter, more refined place than the busy and touristy Port Lucaya Marina and Marketplace. The grounds are well maintained, with large lawns. Five foot long tarpon and spotted rays regularly swam under the boat. There is a beautiful pool, with a small poolside bar and restaurant; sturdy, well-fendered concrete docks; 24 hour security; washers and (a) dryer; clean but older bathrooms and showers; good power and wi-fi. Jazz night on Thursdays, with live music. The dockmasters, Fabian and Aaron, are both just excellent, as is the entire staff. They will do – or arrange for – whatever you need to make your stay a good one. The published rates are $2.20 a foot, but if you intend to stay longer than a couple of days, we urge you to discuss with the dockmaster an outstanding monthly promotional monthly rate which runs through the end of 2016. There is a mandatory $10 a day water charge, and the electricity is metered at 60 cents per KWH. They can arrange for a reasonably priced rental car. There is an excellent Solomon’s Fresh Market about two miles away, and if you schedule with the marina ahead of time, they will take you there and pick you up.

Pool area and bar, Grand Bahama Yacht Club, Port Lucaya

This marina would, in my view, qualify as a hurricane hole; there is not much fetch in any direction, the pilings are tall and the docks are solid. Much of the shoreline is natural vegetation. They run a free boat-shuttle service (a five minute trip) over to the Port Lucaya Marina and Marketplace, where you can clear through Customs and Immigration, or visit the restaurants and shops. At the Marketplace, the nice-little-Italian-restaurant “Cappuccinos” is one of our favorites, with excellent pastas and a great early-bird special. One of the highest rated restaurants in the Bahamas – and the Carribbean, is “Flying Fish”, adjacent to the Marketplace. It is very expensive, but it was the best restaurant meal we’ve had anywhere in ten years. Some local Bahamian friends go there for happy hour and their excellent appetizers, offered most evenings.

The Customs and Immigration process at Port Lucaya is generally painless and quick, as is the case at West End/Settlement Point – on Grand Bahama. When checking into the Bahamas, don’t forget to have your Cruising Permit endorsed for fishing and for spearfishing, which does not cost anything extra.

“Meander” at the Grand Bahama Yacht Club, Port Lucaya

The Bell Channel entry, according to the dockmaster carries 6.5’ at low tide, but having been through there a number of times, I think that is a conservative estimate. We came through at dead low on April 13, 2016, and never had actual depths less than 7’ from our two carefully calibrated depth finders. The general guidance is that there is more water on the east side of the channel. In a strong onshore wind, larger waves in the entrance channel could reduces depths. The channel is clearly marked, but be sure to start your approach into Bell Channel from the small offshore white buoy, to avoid the reefs.

The fuel dock is no longer located at the Port Lucaya marina; it was moved to the Grand Bahama Yacht Club. [See Bahamas Chatter by SALTY SOUTHEST CRUISERS’ NET PARTNER Explorer Chartbooks for fuel prices.  Current 4/12/2016 prices: Diesel  $3.34,  Gas  3.94 VAT included on both.]

We rented a car and explored the island, including the interesting Lucayan National Park with its historic upland caves, creeks and marshes full of wildlife, and beautiful beaches. You can also explore the interesting Lucayan Waterway in your dinghy. There is much more to see on Grand Bahama than we had imagined.

In our view, while they are still refurbishing and updating this facility, it is well on its way to being a five star marina.

Greg Allard
M/V Meander

Explorer Chartbooks, A SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET PARTNER, has long been the standard navigational supplement for enjoyable, informative, and safe cruising through the beautiful Bahamian waters and island visits.

Bahamas Chatter: Spanish wells to Exuma route
Spanish wells to Exuma route
Posted: 10 Apr 2016 02:27 PM PDT
Looks like we may be heading to the Exumas from Harbor island in a week or so.

The direct route from current cay to ship channel cay is tempting, as shown in the explorer chart books but with our 6+ draft I m a little concerned about the shoals just west of Finley cay. The area of coral heads just south can be avoided with a dogleg east, but what are the actual depths crossing the shallows there? Will try to get some tide obviously, schedule permitting.