Any cruising on North Carolina’s Albemarle Sound, but, as it so often seems, particularly the AICW’s north to south trek across the sound’s easterly waters, can be a ROUGH and ready experience. It’s not by accident that the Albemarle is known as the roughest body of water on the Eastern Seaboard.
So, to be crossing Albemarle Sound with water spouts in view (see below), is downright scary!

Crossing the Albemarle yesterday was `interesting’. The wind was generally 10 knots or less and the waves were around one foot so from that stand point it was one of our nicer crossing. But we saw 5 water spouts! Only the first one was of any concern to us, about a mile or so off our port bow. Fortunately it dissipated after a few minutes. The other water spouts formed behind us about 2 or 3 miles off. Several sail boats were near them but all was ok and again they dissipated quickly.
It was interesting that the rain showers that spawned the water spouts were neither that strong nor intense; no lighting or thunder, no heavy rain, visibility was good, etc.
Bob & Lynn Williamson
On Legrace in Elizabeth City

On 7/23/09, as part of a `North Carolina Wish List,’ I posed the following question:

15. Also, on the southern shores of Albemarle Sound, beautiful Scuppernong River leads upstream to Columbia, NC, where you will find free city docks. Who has visited Columbia lately? What did you find ashore? Any good places to eat?

Responses follow:

We stopped in Columbia and used their small town dock. Only stayed for an hour. Just long enough to walk a few blocks, stretch our legs and window shop. It was mid morning so we weren’t looking for restaurants. Smaller then Edenton, not as much to do or see but a welcome break for us. The river makes a great anchorage. A nice place to take a short break.
Rick

Columbia, NC we are here as I type and plan to stay another night. Great free dock with city water and great new bathhouse. Several restaurants and a helpful marine center.
Wright and Gladys Anderson
First & Ten

Click Here For More Information on the Columbia Town Docks

On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:

13. The historic city of Edenton, NC is located near the western extreme of Albemarle Sound. Several years ago, the city marina here was vastly expanded, and a new breakwater was built. The downtown business district is within easy walking distance. Who has berthed at Edenton City Marina? Did you have a good experience here? Did you find some good places to eat ashore? Did you experience any of Edenton’s historic attractions?

Responses follow:

We spent 3 days in Edenton. I would have spent a month if we weren’t trying to get to the Chesapeake before the end of the fall 2008 cruising season. We visited Oriental, Washington, Bath, Edenton, Hertford and Columbia. Edenton and Bath are not to be missed. Well, none are to be missed. We intended to spend a week in the rivers and sounds west of the Outer Banks and ended up staying for 25 days. The town dock master in Edenton took us grocery shopping. Clean restrooms. No laundry but the dock master will take you to a Laundromat if you ask. Frank is a very nice man who seems to really enjoy helping people. The restaurants and downtown stores were very nice. Too numerous to name them all. Sean’s was the best restaurant. Excellent food and chatty bar patrons. Waterman’s we found mediocre. The town is beautiful. We found new and interesting stuff around every corner and we walked a lot. I think we saw every historic building and marker within walking distance of the town dock. If it weren’t for cold winters, I would move to Edenton in a heart beat.
Rick

We spent a few days in Edenton at the town dock. Again, information we gleaned from Skipper Bob’s book. The first 2 days at the dock are free, after that it’s a $1 a foot. Electricity $3 per night.
When we were headed toward Edenton, after passing under the bridge, there are some electrical wires that the charts say are 80ft. of clearance. As we approached and saw the sag of the wires over the main channel, somehow they didn’t seem that high. We have about a 46ft. mast clearance. Needless to say we were a bit nervous going under. Also I should mention that squall was developing and coming our way. I was glad we plotted a waypoint on the GPS because as we got into the squall the laptop quit because the battery went dead. I wathched the wind go from about 12 knots and gust up to a little over 30 knots right on our nose. It was weird though because there wasn’t any rain with it. Our visibilty was hampered for about 15 to 20 min. so we just steered on that waypoint to the first entrance marker. The wind died down and cleared up so we could spot our entrance into Edenton. Once we got in and secure, the dockmaster a very cordial fellow offered to drive us into town for ice cream at that local Dairy Queen. We stayed for a few days there. I had to look into a mechanical problem before leaving. We also had a friend visit from home who took us grocery shopping and went to “Rocky Hock Playhouse” for a show. We kinda know the owners and they said we were the first to sail to come see one of there shows.
The town of Edenton was splendid, we ate a Italian restaurant on main street and enjoyed walking around town the time we were there.
Clif & Peta Lewis
s/v Immanuel

Click Here For More Information on the Edenton Town Docks

On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:

12. Leaving the AICW, and moving west on broad Albemarle Sound, has anyone followed the beautiful Perquimans River upstream to Hertford? Did you anchor upstream of the `S’ bridge? Did you dinghy in to downtown Herford? What were your impressions of this community.

Responses follow:

We anchored south of the bridge at Hertford in August 2008. Used the dink to go to the boat ramp up stream of the 2nd bridge. The grocery store you mentioned in your current guide was closed and had been for some time. Shame on you. Most restaurants were closed. We met a very nice couple who moved to Hertford from somewhere in NY state. They bought an older home on the waterfront and are restoring it. They visited with us for a couple of hours on our boat. Our impression is of a very friendly town, but your guide book was out of date. We loved our walk through the waterfront neighborhood. The people we met recommended the Albemarle Plantation and Edenton. We are so glad we visited both. The waters west of the Outer Banks are a gold mine of little towns and anchorages. Please keep it a secret. Crowds will ruin it for cruisers and for the local folks.
Rick

On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:

The AICW passage across Albemarle Sound is known as the single roughest section of the entire Waterway from Norfolk, VA to Key West, FL. Who has experienced a wild Albemarle crossing? Please share your experience with us, and offer any advice you may have to minimize these potentially difficult waters.

Responses follow:

We went from North River to Manteo for a day then from Manteo to the Alligator River the next day. The winds both days were 15 knot easterlies according to VHF – WX observations. Great sailing conditions for our Morgan 384. First day was a beat the second day was down wind. I think seas might have been 2′. Probably not desirable conditions for small and mid size power boats, but great sailing.
Rick

Our crossing was extremely rough. The weather report was incorrect and we thought we were going to get 1-2 ft. waves with 5-10 and got 4-5ft waves with 20+ winds. While the winds were from the west pushing the waves into us broadside, the passage was miserable. We learned what needed to be stowed below better real fast. Stuff was everywhere.
It got better as we turned into the shifted winds tho slower……We have a 44ft blue water capable sailboat but we were getting the snot kicked out of us. For a more enjoyable trip, choose as perfect weather as you can. This shallow broad expanse can get very nasty.

I had a rough passage going north across the Albemarle – my boat rolls badly in East / West side winds. But it isn’t all that bad – you’re only out of sight of land for a half hour or so. I broke a couple of glasses
Best wishes
Arnold Parkinson
The British Club Worldwide
www.britishclubworldwide.com

Albemarle sound was pretty good for us. We sailed for awhile until the crab pots were just too much to deal with. The seas there were quite pleasant.
Clif & Peta Lewis
s/v Immanuel

Albemarle Sound can be a be `messy’ with the open water and wind, especially during the middle of the day and early afternoon. I try to plan my crossing for the early morning (before 8am) when going south and early evening (after 5pm) when going north. At these times, the wind is not up as much and the water reasonably calm ‘“ well, less choppy. When that doesn’t work out, I just find a good cruise speed that minimizes the pounding and spray and accept that fact that I will be giving my boat a good hosing off when I stop for the night.
Pete

Southbound with forcast winds of 15 to 20 we left Coinjock at 0630. Was two thirds the way accross the sound before the seas built to3 to 4 feet. Adjusted power to adjust speed for best handling. Sloppy but no problem. Just a lot of work.
Dave
on GB 46 At Last

The only time our cat, Jake, has ever gotten seasick was when we were crossing the Albemarle Sound against the wind. Longest 20 miles ever. I suspect it tricks a lot of ocean cruisers who can’t believe an inland body of water can get so messy so fast. If in a sailboat and you can’t motorsail upwind effectively, might as well wait a day.
Marilyn

Miles 51 to 82 – Albemarle Sound. With inclement weather almost daily, I found a gap via NOAA Weather and set off from Elizabeth City around 11am. It was fairly rough in Albemarle – and with any degree of side winds and waves my boat rolls badly. But by means of my patented zig zagging process, we arrived at the Alligator River marker around 6.30pm. I had no trouble going through the entry point – though I do think it essential to first start at marker QG31 – if you try to bypass it then the subsequent markers can become confusing and dangerous. I safely anchored in the Little Alligator just as the sun was setting. Phew!
Arnold

Hope to cross the Albemarle in late April, pending sea trial and completion of sale on a Maryland trawler. Figure to cross the Albemarle about mid-day if plans hold. Thanks cruisers for all your notes!
Ben

Edenton Marina is found up Pembroke Creek, west of the city marina and downtown waterfront.

Subject: Edenton, NC
Cruising News: I recently pulled into Edenton Marina, 641 West Queen Street (US 17 Business), Edenton NC, and have really enjoyed my welcome to the town.
Scotty Harrell, the owner of Edenton Marina is a pleasure to do business with and is a great host. The Marina is low key and a very nice place to tie up.
Bayside Marina, located about one quarter mile South of Edenton Marina has been re-modeled and now boasts a very good Cafe for breakfast and lunch closing at 2PM. The Cafe is run by Bill and Denise who do fresh home made biscuits daily….you can win a husband with them in my estimation. The Bayside is limited to Bass Boats and other low clearance craft due to the 17 Highway bridge.
Downtown I have found Sean’s to be an excellent place to dine. Excellent food at a very good price and live music most every Wednesday night. Down the street is the Waterman’s….excellent food, up-scale place….but expensive.
There is a very nice laundromat located behind the Burger King next to the Subway shop on Highway 32 north on the edge of town….right around the corner from Kathie’s Steak House which has karaoke nights.
The local Taxi service is very cheap but reliable.
For American Legion members, the Edenton Post 40, is located a few miles south on Highway 17…taxi fare is about Four Dollars from the Edenton Marina.
Ralph Chappell

Click Here For More Information On Edenton Marina

The charming, historic river town of Columbia, NC, sits on the banks of beautiful Scuppernong River. This stream, in turn, flows into the southern shores of Albemarle Sound, well west of the AICW’s crossing of this often rough body of water.
Just received a note from Captain Ray Smith, which provided a link to a scanned newspaper article concerning changes to the Columbia town dock regulations. This scan is not really in a form easily displyed here on the Cruisers’ Net, so I’m going to summarize.
Effective immediately, the first three nights at the Columbia town docks are free. Thereafter, a charge of $1.00 per foot, per night, will be levied. Free nights can only occur within the span of a single week. In other words, you can’t leave the town docks for one night, come back, and expect three more free nights.
There is also a charge (as has been true all along) for waste pump-out!
Hope everyone finds this helpful!

Click Here For More Information On The Columbia Town Docks

The Scuppernong River, on which the old, river town of Columbia is located, so impressed earlery European settlers on the North Carolina coastline, that they named it “Hearts Delight.” It remains pretty much the same today. I heartily recommend a trip off the AICW to the Scuppernong and Columbia.

Subject: Coluimbia, NC
Message: To those cruising Albemarle Sound, Columbia, NC on the beautiful Scuppernong River, is a great stop. The Town has recently opened a first class reatroom/shower facility right next to the free Town dock. There is a fine hardware store about a block from the dock, which is at the foot of the main street. There is also a pharmacy and small department store. The Town’s
museum, in an old theater, is great. There is about 8 feet of water at the Town dock, and potable water is on the dock. We heartily recommend this pleasant and charming Town.
Norman and Betsy Mason,
MV “Peggy Sue”

Click Here For More Information On the Columbia Town Docks

I agree wholeheartedly with Greg and Susan. Watermans is a very good place to satisfy a healthy appetite, and it's within easy walking distance of the Edenton City Docks!

We are looking forward to dinner at the Waterrman restaurant in Edenton and seeing friends there.  The special appetizer at Waterman is broccoli. I have never seen a dish offered like this. It does have a sauce but just the fresh vegetable is spectacular.
Greg and Susan Han
Allegria — Krogen Whaleback

We had an earlier posting here on the Net’s “North Carolina” section about the WONDERFUL Mackeys Crab Grill and Marina on Mackeys Creek. This twin facility lies off the southern shores of Albemarle Sound, between the Roanoke and Scuppernong Rivers, on protected Mackeys Creek (also known as Kendrick Creek). Take my word for it, the food is WONDERFUL!!!

For an off-the-beaten-path trip up the Albemarle, try Mackey’s Marina on the south side [of Albemarle Sound] (252-793-5031) (http://www.mackeysmarina.com/) Joanne and Henry run it. They have a great bar/seafood restaurant now (local crabs) and transient slips. Deep enough water if you stay in the channel. Very protected. Good tackle shop. Fuel. Boat lift. It’s a working crabbers dock, so be prepared for working boats, not pristine cruisers. Bald eagles nest up the creek and ospreys all over – pretty spot if you like rustic.
No connection, just a displaced local boy.
Jim

Click Here For More Information On Mackeys Marina and Crab Shack

For those who have never before made the trek, Edenton lies near the westerly limits of Albemarle Sound, hard by the sound’s juncture with the Chowan River. I love a cruise to beaufitufl and historic Edenton, but all captains must be aware of the 30+ nautical mile journey necessary to access this community from the comfortable confines of the ICW

EDENTON (8/27 – 8/30). Town Docks are wonderful. Great enclosed harbor, friendly staff, first two nights still complimentary, still $6 for 50A power. Great seafood at Waterman’s Grill and good pizza at Kristy’s Place. Bike riding and walking about were quite easy, with some very interesting history to absorb.
Regards, Nita and Rick George aboard MV Hale Kai

Click Here For More Information On The Edenton Town Docks