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    • Jul 27, 2009by:   Claiborne Young No Comments

      Alligator River Marina (Statute Mile 84)

      On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:

      21. Finally, back to the AICW. From Albemarle Sound, the Waterway tracks its way south down broad Alligator River. There is already a HUGE discussion string on the Net about shoaling, plus marker and electronic charting problems at the intersection of the AICW and northern Alligator River. So, I won’t repeat that question here. However, just north of the Alligator River bridge, Alligator Marina guards the western banks. Who has stopped here recently? Please describe your experience.

      Responses follow:

      Alligator Marina has low priced fuel for sure. People very friendly. Store is more attuned to the road traffic than boats.
      Best wishes
      Arnold Parkinson
      The British Club Worldwide
      www.britishclubworldwide.com

      Stopped [at] Alligator River Marina couple years ago.. As we walked dog on leash we were told no dogs allowed.. wonder if that has changed since 03.
      Craig

      Click Here For More Information Concerning Alligator River Marina

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    • Jul 24, 2009by:   Claiborne Young No Comments

      A New Place to Stop on the Dismal Swamp Route

      Well, this is a new one on me. I have never before heard of spending the night on “the small wall by the Deep Creek Bridge.” Of course, this spot is in Virginia, and a little bit out of my area of expertise, but, hey, that doesn’t mean a thing since it appears this is a good place for cruising craft and their crews to berth!

      We now skip the delightful Visitors Center because we love stopping at the small wall by the Deep Creek bridge (just south of the lock on the east side). La Familia Restaurant is must stop for us, just a great family owned local Mexican restaurant. We have stopped there 4 times now, we like it that much. Plus across the street is a nice grocery where we can bring the shopping cart right back to the boat (and always return the cart so the next
      boaters can enjoy the same privileges). Robert, one of the lock keepers at Deep Creek is a hoot, if you tie-up at the long docks between the bridge & lock (Elizabeth’s Dock), he has been known to bring pastries by in the
      morning!
      Bob & Lynn Williamson
      On Legrace in the Erie Canal at Spencerport NY (enjoying this weekend’s
      canal festival)

      We have spent the night at the free dock just south of the Deep Creek Lock. An excellent stop if you catch the last lock of the day heading south. If full, rafting is expected. Quiet and small park for a stroll.
      James Lea

      We have also enjoyed several overnights at the Deep Creek Bridge. There’s even an auto parts store across the street where we were able to find a radiator hose that was a perfect fit for our Westerbeke 27. La Familia Restaurant is not to be missed; however, when we stopped there last month, we noted a homeless couple living in their car behind the restaurant. We were also approached by a couple of guys who appeared to be checking us out. Be sure to lock up when you leave your boat.
      We first encountered Robert at Deep Creek lock 4 or 5 years ago. He not only offered us coffee and pastries, but has also entertained us with his amazing skills on the conch horn. Be sure to check out his conch garden and, if you have one to spare, Robert would be most appreciative. By the way, if you are running late, give Robert a call (757-487-0831) – he very well may hold the lock opening for you if there is no one else waiting. And, as always, `tips are always appreciated’!
      Allan DeWall
      S/V Cat Rageous, Nonsuch 30U

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    • Jul 24, 2009by:   Claiborne Young 1 Comment

      New Cruiser Friendly Carry-Out Eaterie Opens in Oriental (Statute Mile 181)

      Sounds absolutely yummy. I’m sure all of us in the cruising community wish “Bama” the very best, and, please note, that until quite recently she was a live-aboard cruiser!

      Cruisers dropping anchor in Oriental, NC, and heading ashore for some grub now have a new option for mealtime provisioning. The VILLAGE FOOD EMPORIUM recently opened in an old blue house at the corner of Broad St. (Hwy. 55) and Church St., directly across from Town Hall and The Old Theater and between Captain’s Quarters Bed & Breakfast and the Inn at Oriental. Specializing in convenient and freshly prepared carry-out cuisine, they can be reached at 252-249-FOOD (3663) or www.villagefoodemporium.com.
      Their menu offers an array of made-to-order sandwiches and wraps (Ham & Cheese w/horseradish mayo, Grilled Vegetables w/goat cheese and pesto, Chicken Salad, Seafood Salad, and Roasted Pork Loin with Chipotle mayo). Dinner entrees recently included roasted Salmon w/horseradish mustard and honey, Shrimp Cocktail, Meatloaf w/Italian-Style Tomato Sauce, Chicken with Peaches, Ginger, and Basil, and similarly flavorful fare that’s not easy to come by in a galley of your own. There’s also a deli case filled with tasty side dishes, like Garlic Mashed Potatoes and Green Beans roasted w/garlic and Parmesan, and a large cooler with other delicious options for an impromptu meal on the boat, at a B&B, or perhaps for a picnic at nearby Lou Mac Park. You’ll find freshly made salads and fresh pineapple chunks in bio-degradeable containers, and chilled soft drinks, juices and mixers. Freshly brewed iced tea is another option. A selection of hand-picked wines and beers will also be added in the near future.
      Also available are loaves of freshly baked, crusty Italian bread and some of the finest cheeses you are likely to encounter on your voyage because the Village Food Emporium is the very first retailer of Artisanal Premium Cheeses in the entire south. For those not yet familiar with this company, Artisinal Premium Cheeses carry’s more than 200 types of hand-made cheeses made by talented Affineurs around the world. The cheeses are carefully aged and ripened in five cheese caves that lay underneath the firm’s Manhattan-based headquarters. From there, they are shipped overnight to retails locations in and around Manhattan and Long Island only–and now, to Oriental! Flavor starved sailors can also load up on specialty gourmet groceries and handmade gifts, including Saucy Sisters Russian Honey Mustard (winner of the 2008 World Mustard Competition), Recchiuti Chocolate, Harvest Song Peach, Apricot, and Green Walnut Preserves from Armenia, and whole bean, freshly roasted Organic coffee from Costa Rica.
      Proprietor Bama Lutes Deal dreampt up her business concept after spending 7 years in Oriental on a part- time basis. Living on her boat from December 2008 to April 2009, she personally supervised the renovation process, which required new wiring, plumbing, HVAC, floors, and the building of an inviting entrance deck. Deal then proceeded to nurse back the old fashioned garden of hydrangeas, clematis, and roses had lain fallow on the property for quite some time. The result is a peaceful, welcoming and homey little spot that emits intoxicating aromas from a brand new state-of-the-art commercial kitchen. Customers can place food orders in advance by calling 252-249-FOOD (3663) or emailing BamaLutesDeal@aol.com. Or they can just drop in during regular business hours–Tu thru Sat, 11 am to 7 pm. The Emporium’s seasonal menu is updated each week, and special orders can often be accommodated with a bit of advanced notice.
      To find the Village Food Emporium from Oriental’s Town Dock, simply walk or drive north along Broad St. until the sidewalk ends, then cross Church St. and look for the only blue 2-story house w/ white trim on the right. The entrance which is off to the side, sports a brightly painted orange door. Enjoy!
      Bama Lutes Deal
      Owner, Manager
      Village Food Emporium
      702 Broad St.

      Comments from Cruisers (1)

      1. Captain Robert S. Viola -  August 13, 2009 - 9:01 pm

        We stopped in Oriental on our way North and spent two days there. The people in the ships store (sorry can’t think of their names) were so kind to us. They volunteered their car (we didn’t ask for it) to shop and go to the laundry. We were pleasantly surprised, but good people are everywhere, so why not in Oriental? I cannot recommend the place too highly – their Marina service and hospitality was terrific. We also had a damaged stbd water pump replaced by a local mechanic, arranged by the store people. His prices were very fair for both a new Jabsco water pump and labor ($310.00)
        Captain Bob Viola
        Trojan Tri-Cabin: “The Lady T”

        Reply to Captain
    • Jul 24, 2009by:   Claiborne Young No Comments

      Seapath Yacht Club (Wrightsville Beach – Motts Channel – St. M. 283)

      On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:

      52. Along Motts Channel, between markers #23 and #21, transient friendly Seapath Yacht Club guards the northerly banks. Who has berthed here? Please describe your experience. Any good eating places within walking distance

      Responses follow:

      Seapath Yacht Club was great (about $2/foot/day on the face dock in a no wake zone, with a beautiful marsh view). Friendly staff and boaters at the docks, with a nice courtesy van that you can use for an unlimited amount of time to shop or travel to a restaurant, provided there is no one else waiting for it. We were there for three weekdays so it was not an issue. There is a very nice (large) public park just across the street from the marina. Breakfast at the Causeway Café was very good, dinner at the Oceanic was great with a wonderful view of the Beach The Fish House Grill was also good, near the Intracoastal bridge. Nothing is what I would call within easy walking distance, though.
      Chuck Tontsch


      Click Here for More Information on Seapath Yacht Club

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    • Jul 24, 2009by:   Claiborne Young No Comments

      Morehead City Yacht Basin (Statute Mile 203)

      Morehead City Yacht BasinOn 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:

      40. Just before the AICW crosses under the high-rise Newport River Bridge, south of marker #39, cruisers can take a turn to the west, and follow a marked channel to Morehead City Yacht Basin (a SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR). I think this is a superb facility. Who else has stayed here? Please share your observations. Did you find any good dining spots within walking distance?

      Responses follow:

      We stayed at Morehead City Yacht Basin overnight before continuing to Masonboro Inlet the next morning. They are as friendly and accommodating as ever ($2/foot/day plus electric, but with a 10 percent BoatUS discount, very clean, well run facilities). We prefer this marina to getting entangled in the mass of boats and tourists at the Beaufort docks. Tried to eat at the closed-on-Monday Ruddy Duck because we heard it was exceptional, settled for the Sanitary Fish Market, which is good. In the past we have tried Floyd’s 1921 restaurant, the shortest walk of all, in an large old house visible across the water from the marina (also closed on Monday). The food there is very good, with a full service bar.
      Chuck Tontsch

      Took fuel and stayed at Morehead City next night – good spot, helpful staff & reasonable prices. Plenty of restuarants to choose from with easy walking distance. Also one Mini-Mart type store for basics but real groceries or hardware, etc are not in walking distance.
      John Thayer
      M/V Anna Suzanne

      Our previous stop was Morehead City Yacht Basin. We chose this marina based on your guide recommendations as well as first hand recommendations from a cruiser we met in Myrtle Beach, SC. We heard more than one negative comment regarding a marina in Beaufort, so decided to stay at MHYB. We spent a week both going north and returning south. Using the courtesy car from MCYB, we visited Beaufort, but enjoyed docking in Morehead.
      Mike and the other folks working there made our stay more than enjoyable. Such friendly people. The laundry facilities are great. The courtesy car, even though not free (10.00), was most helpful to drive to the newly opened Harris Teeter. We re-stocked our larder during both stays.
      On our trip up, we enjoyed lunch and dinner on the 4th at Floyd’s, just a few steps away from the Marina. Great food and friendly service. The restuarant offered access to the 2nd floor porch during dinner so we could view the fireworks, hence our eating two meals on the same day at the location. It was great to watch firework displays from both Atlantic Beach and Morehead City from such a position.
      If anyone is looking for a true NY deli, sample the New York Deli in Atlantic Beach. Small place, but great food. They also offer pasta and other italian dishes for lunch as well as a Friday night dinner. Very nice people. The Admiral stated this rueben had the “right stuff!”
      Perry & Kathy Sellars
      M/V Marsh Mellow

      Click Here For More Information About Morehead City Yacht Basin

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    • Jul 24, 2009by:   Claiborne Young 1 Comment

      Visiting Ocracoke and Silver Lake Harbor (Pamlico Sound)

      On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:

      19. Probably Pamlico Sound’s most popular port of call is Silver Lake Harbor on Ocrocoke Island. This is still a great place to visit. Cruisers can choose between the US Park Service Docks, a private marina, or you can anchor out in Silver Lake. Who has visited Ocracoke? Did you dock or anchor? What did you find ashore? Please provide some Ocrocoke dining recommendations.

      Responses follow:

      We stayed in Ocracoke for four days the week of July 12. Arrived in a 30 knot southwester from Oriental and docked at the empty National Park Service Docks on the north end of Silver Lake (first-come-first-served, $1.25/foot/day and $3/day for 30 amp electric, no dockside showers). The docks are very rough and badly in need of maintenance; make sure your fenders are adequate. One boat did join us before we left on Wednesday. All of the restaurants we visited were good: smacnally’s at the Anchorage Marina, Jolly Roger, Back Porch (try their Vietnamese style Bluefish dish). We usually try to go to Howard’s but have heard relatively bad things about them in terms of service and food quality recently. Ashore this time of year is the usual mix of tourists from the upper banks and the ferries down for a day trip (very crowded in town, not so much at the docks or the beach). There is still a shoal building out from red 10B and from auxiliary uncharted green can 9C. You should give them both a wide berth when exiting or leaving from Big Foot Slough Channel .
      Chuck Tontsch

      Stay at Park Service Dock or anchor out. The only other marina has gone to $2.50 per foot, plus $10 for a 50 amp service. Ocracoke is a great place to go. As you come in the channel, stay in it until you see a green and red marker near marker #4 on the Silver Lake entrance channel. Leave the green and red to starboard as you turn into Silver Lake ( I watched the ferries do this), then follow the markers as usual. Do not cut across into the Silver Lake channel until the green and red. Otherwise, the channel from Pamlico Sound is very well marked.
      Norman Mason
      Peggy Sue, Monk 36

      I’m a big fan of the Caribe so have been trying to find the Abacos or Barbados on the ICW – pretty much unrealistic. But Okracoke has the flavour of the Caribe about – much more so than Cape Lookout further south. Some good bars and joints there – not too expensive. Easy to moor and dinghy in. But no Reggae, Limbo or De Rum and Coca Cola……
      Best wishes
      Arnold Parkinson
      The British Club Worldwide
      www.britishclubworldwide.com

      Ocracoke is always fun. We have been several times including last fall. We love the Ocrafolk Opry – there are the locals who sand and played in the movie, Nights in Rodanthe. Several of them are teachers at the local school. We anchor but the dock is park operated so your park pass gets you a discount. Local art shops are numerous. Good restaurants and bakery and ice cream shop
      Wright and Gladys Anderson
      First & Ten

      We anchored in Silver Lake this trip in June. Was the first time anchoring out there among several trips there by water. Was excellent and would do again. State docks are excellent if you can get a spot with full power, water and very reasonable most especially if you purchase for $10 the Passport for State Parks
      and a Sr. Citizen – cuts dock price to under $1.00 / ft. We love Jason’s out near
      Howards. Anchorage Marina is definitely a “gotcha” marina – prices are out of reason from dockage to fuel. I had to get fuel, it was $2.00 per gallon more than I paid anywhere from Bath, NC to Norfolk; I also needed to fill up my water tanks – that was $10.00
      Pat Kenefick

      We go to Ocracoke regularly and love it there. The channel in is a bit daunting due to shoaling. Went hard aground there in a power yacht last spring between marker 9 and 9A I believe. The Coast Guard relayed this happens more often than you’d expect. Be sure to stay mid channel or follow the route of the ferries that regularly visit the town. Shopping is fun (lots of jewelry and unusual crafts) and there are many places to eat that are good, our favorites being the Back Porch and Flying Melon. We usually stay at the private marina but have friends who anchor out. Silver Lake is truly a beautiful spot.
      Pat Cummins, s/v Kentris

      The Admiral and I spent the 2nd week of July docked at Anchorage Marina in Silver Lake, Ocracoke. We found the staff most helpful, very friendly, and welcoming overall. The cost of dockage was a bit higher than we experienced in other locations. Additionally, pump outs are on the expensive side, 30.00 per 30 gallons. Also, the lack of laundry can be a pain. However, we are talking about Ocracoke and the marina staff worked very hard to make up for these few negatives. Due to wind, we constantly heard the slap of water on the swim platform each night.
      There were a number of boats anchored in the lake proper, including two good sized Marine Trader trawlers.
      The island recently passed liquor by the drink so a few of the restuarants now offer cocktails. Unfortunately for those who drink hard liquor, the current law doesn’t allow outdoor venues to offer this choice. Apparently the law specifies a venue must provide indoor seating for greater than 32 to apply for a liquor license.
      My wife and I enjoyed a number of lunches at Dajio which is a very short walk from the marina. Our favorite entree being the “ciabattia chicken sandwich.”
      Additionally, the Creekside Cafe served a good sampling of bar/grill food and a decent sampling of seafood. They also serve cocktails for those interested.
      Of course we had to sample Howards. The Admiral had a rueben which, according to her (native of NY), wasn’t quite up to par.
      Perry & Kathy Sellars
      M/V Marsh Mellow

      We have been anchored out in Silver Lake the last three nights; it has been windy, in the 20 knot range from the south and southwest, very choppy on the sound. We rented bikes today at the Surf Shed, which has the best prices (not to be confused with the Surf Shop across the street). It is about a 20 minute leisurely bike ride to the excellent Park Service beach. I walked by the Anchorage Marina and noted that diesel was going for $2.69, so am not sure about the comment above about fuel prices. Ocracoke is a true island, only accessible by boat or ferry, so it doesn’t surprise me that things like fuel, water and pump outs are expensive, as they often are in the Bahamas, for instance. Anyway, it is a fun stop, reminiscent of a cross between Cuttyhunk, Memensha, and Vineyard Haven up north.
      George Hechtman
      Incentive, Hatteras 56MY

      Click Here For The Cruisers’ Net’s North Carolina Marina Directory Listing For The Ocracoke National Park Service Docks

      Click Here For The Cruisers’ Net’s North Carolina Marina Directory Listing For Anchorage Marina

      Comments from Cruisers (1)

      1. Norman Mason -  July 24, 2009 - 5:51 pm

        Stay at Park Service Dock or anchor out. The only other marina has gone to $2.50 per foot, plus $10 for a 50 amp service. Ocracoke is a great place to go. As you come in the channel, stay in it until you see a green and red marker near marker #4 on the Silver Lake entrance channel. Leave the green and red to starboard as you turn into Silver Lake ( I watched the ferries do this), then follow the markers as usual. Do not cut across into the Silver Lake channel until the green and red. Otherwise, the channel from Pamlico Sound is very well marked.
        Norman Mason
        Peggy Sue, Monk 36

        Reply to Norman
    • Jul 24, 2009by:   Claiborne Young No Comments

      Belhaven Marinas (Statute Mile 135.5)

      On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:

      25. The delightful community of Belhaven will be spotted to the northwest of the Waterway, hard by marker #10 (near Statute Mile 135.5). Here you will find two marinas, River Forest Manor, and Belhaven Waterway Marina (a SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR). Can anyone describe a recent experience when staying at River Forest? Those who have coiled their lines at Belhaven Waterway Marina have had, I’ll bet, a great experience. Those who have stayed here with Brenda and Les recently, please tell us about your stay!

      Responses follow:

      We stayed at River Forest Manor. The staff were friendly and helpful. The marina is in serious need of a facelift. The shower facilities were relatively clean. On a scale from 1-10 with 10 being able to eat off the floor I would give it a 6.5 or 7.
      It needs updating.
      The laundry room was more like a 3 but while the machines that worked were old, they are the big commercial type and I was able to throw all of my cockpit pillows/cushions in them………huge capacity.
      The restaurant was pretty good. The pool is small but clean. The marina is dog friendly. Pumpout was broken.
      We will probably stay at Dowry Creek on the way back.

      Belhaven [Waterway] Marina is a great spot and a MUCH better place to stay the night than River Forest. As charming as the `big house’ and restaurant appear to be at River Forest, the docks are old and in need of repair, the fuel is questionable coming from old and rusting above ground tanks, the head facilities are not the greatest and the food at the `inn’ is sub-par to say the least. Stay at Belhaven Marina ‘“ easy docking, good folks, nice facilities, great little Tiki bar and you can walk into town or ride a bike and enjoy a nice dinner there.
      Pete

      [Belhaven Waterway Marina is] One of our favorite stops – spring and fall. Les & Brenda will help with whatever the problem is. Les is a very good mechanic, and they have a railway in the yard to handle larger boats for repairs/maintenance.
      We do enjoy Belhaven and have to have a Farm Boy sandwich! Don’t miss the museum – you won’t find another like it.
      Hardware store is well-stocked and has a good gift area too.
      Linda & Ed Thorn

      Click Here For More Information About River Forest Manor Marina

      Click Here For More Information About Belhaven Waterway Marina

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    • Jul 24, 2009by:   Claiborne Young 1 Comment

      Beaufort Town Docks (Statute Mile 201)

      On 7/24/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:

      39. Whether you approach Beaufort by way of the Russell Slue ‘“ Gallant Channel, or the charted channel coming in from Beaufort Inlet, this is one of the most popular ports of call in North Carolina, or anywhere else on the Waterway for that matter. Again, I know MANY of you visit Beaufort time and time again. Please share your recommendations and observations concerning this historic, exciting community with your fellow cruisers.

      Responses follow:

      June 28-29, 2009. I spent a delightful time at the Beaufort Town Docks. The dockmaster was friendly and helpful. The Boardwalk Cafe has a great breakfast buffet. I enjoyed the pancakes. While some people want to sit outside I found it nicer in the air conditioned inside at a high table where I could look out along the boats in the harbor and I did not need to wait for a table.The Maritime Museum is excellent. I spent a happy few hours there. One warning. If you go in their excellent library and sit in a soft chair to read their current sailing magazines you will probably fall aslelep.
      Keep up the good work.
      David Hughes
      Expedition
      Out of Blackbeard Sailing Club

      We are currently in Beaufort and are doing the tourist things. We are happily anchored across from the US Post office, in about 12 feet of water, well `INTO’ the channel. I was at the museum when it opened this morning and stsyed for four hours. It is a fun spot to be.
      Tommy

      We love Beaufort. Cute shops and great restaurants. We suggest you try The Grocery for lunch or dinner. Courtesy cars available and wooden nickels for free beer at the marina restaurant. Hard to beat.
      Dave
      on GB 46 At Last

      Click Here For More Information On the Beaufort Town Docks

      Comments from Cruisers (1)

      1. Tommy -  July 25, 2009 - 2:43 pm

        We are currently in Beaufort and are doing the tourist things. We are happily anchored across from the US Post office, in about 12 feet of water, well “INTO” the channel. I was at the museum when it opened this morning and stsyed for four hours. It is a fun spot to be.
        Tommy

        Reply to Tommy
    • Jul 24, 2009by:   Claiborne Young No Comments

      Swansboro (Statute Mile 229)

      On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:

      45. The delightful village of Swansboro will be spotted northwest of marker 46. There are two transient friendly marinas to choose from, or you could brave the swift currents and anchor on the westerly reaches of White Oak River, and dinghy ashore to the small town pier. Who has visited Swansboro? Where did you dock, or did you anchor? Please give us some shoreside dining and docking recommendations.

      Responses follow:

      We anchored just downstream of the bridge in July 2008. Good holding. A fair weather anchorage with currents no more or less strong than those all along the coast from Beaufort, NC to Fernandina Bch, FL
      Rick

      We docked a Casper’s Marina overnight, the staff is very friendly and accommodating, although the one unisex non-climate controlled shower and restrooms are just adequate. The face dock can be very rough from wakes on the White River and Intracoastal and is wide open from the southwest, but with good fenders it is okay. The water normally quiets down in the evening, but the band plays on until late from a shrimper’s bar near the southeast side of the bridge. The music was good, though
      Chuck Tontsch

      We anchored out in Swansboro near the bridge. We got there fairly late and had to jostle for a while to get right. Actually we moved 4 times before we felt right. We did not get to go ashore but it looked cute and we will try to do so on our way south and look forward to reading about it more. Our recomendations would be to get there early for a good spot. It gets a bit close there with the bridge, docks and big fishing vessels forming a three sided anchorage. A bit daunting in windy conditions if its crowded, which it was.

      We stayed at Caspers Marina there in June 2008. Good experience. We ate dinner at Icehouse Restaurant and were very pleased with the food and service. Nice waterfront location. For breakfast I highly recommend Yana’s. Wonderful food and friendly service. Swansboro is a fun place to visit and has some interesting shops.
      Pat Cummins, s/v Kentris

      I think Swansboro is one of the most overlooked little towns along the ICW. They have a number of small and simple restaurants with great food, some cute little shops and very friendly people. If you stay at Casper’s Marina, it is an easy walk into town. Speaking of Casper’s, this marina is exposed to the ICW right at the place where the channel speed drops from 25 to No Wake. Needless to say, there are plenty of recreational day boaters who don’t respect that go zooming by (or very close) to the marina. If you stay there, insist that you stay on the inside of the fuel dock which acts as a breakwater. I spent a very uncomfortable night on the outside and was `banged’ pretty good. In all fairness, I stayed there on a Saturday so the number of fast boats and jet skis was disproportional. They do have fuel, nice shower and heads and a small but ample provision store all on site.
      Peter

      Click Here For More Information on Caspers Marina

      Click Here For More Information on the Swansboro Anchorage

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    • Jul 24, 2009by:   Claiborne Young No Comments

      Pungo Creek Anchorage (Statute Mile 136)

      On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:

      26. Just south of Belhaven and Pantego Creek, Pungo Creek offers superb anchorage. Anyone dropped the hook here recently?

      Responses follow:

      Excellent anchorage, even when wind is from the east. You can find a place to snuggle up to the windward shoreline for protection from any direction.
      Rick


      Click Here For More Information on the Pungo Creek Anchorage

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    • Jul 24, 2009by:   Claiborne Young No Comments

      Dowry Creek Marina (Pungo River, Statute Mile 131.5)

      On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List, I posed the following question:

      24. Dowry Creek Marina guards the northern shores of the AICW/Pungo River hard by marker #15. This facility has an unfailing reputation for friendliness. If you have stopped here within the last year, please describe your experience.

      Responses follow:

      We were at this marina in 2008. Very nice people. Loaner car available. Great, great, great boaters lounge and pool. The photos they have in the lounge of the hurricane that hit NC a few years back really ripped up their docks, so the message was clear……..don’t get caught there in strong SE winds. We planned to stay one night and ended up enjoying the place so much we stayed for 3 nights just because it was so relaxing.
      Rick

      I stopped at Dowry Creek Marina once on the way south last November and again on the way north in late April and early May. I stayed two days in November and a week on the way back in April and May. This is a truly great marina and a great place to relax for a couple of days. Mary, the owner, will let you use the marina’s SUV to go to town and stock up on supplies and visit the local restaurants. All she asks in exchange is that you put gas in the vehicle. Dowry Creek Marina has wonderful bathrooms. Each bathroom is complete with its own commode, sink and shower. No gang showers and slippery floors. They are also kept spotlessly clean. Friday night the marina hosts a get together with light snacks and drinks.
      The marina is extremely well protected. The approach to the marina is clearly marked and had 8′ at MLW plus the marina has around 8′ at MLW. I’m 47′ LOA with a 6′ DRAFT and the marina is very easy to get in to, out of and visit the fuel dock. Dowry Creek has diesel, gasoline and a pump-out station at their fuel dock. They do enough volume to maintain fresh fuel. There are plenty of liveaboards, seasonal renters and dockhands to help you get into your slip anytime of the day or night. Due to severe head winds and thunderstorms I was late getting to Dowry Creek in April. I called the marina and told them that I could not make it there by 6:00pm and it would be closer to 7:30pm. They told me that would be fine and had four people at the slip when I got there around 8:00pm in the dark. They helped handle my lines in a 20 knot crosswind. That was much appreciated. The marina is also very pet friendly.
      As a bonus I caught the largest Speckled Trout of my life fishing from the bow of my boat while in the slip.
      I recommend this marina without hesitation.
      Regards,
      Ric Seymour

      We’d heard so many positive things about Dowry Creek Marina that we stopped there mid-July 2009 for 1 night. Mary has fresh veggies in a basket on the porch ‘“ours for the taking. We enjoyed the use of the pool, lounge, laundry facility, and courtesy car. It’s a long trip into Belhaven for groceries but a nice, restful stop.
      Bill and Laura Bender

      Stopped there three times. Last Fall stayed for two days due to weather. A wonderful place to be, so kind and caring. I shared a minute at the site she has for her [late] husband, a Vietnam Vet, and a Marine> I share this moment to reflect, alone with him, and what we shared. He will always be a `Brother In Arms’. May God Bless You Always. You will always be remembered. That is one reason why I return each year.
      See you soon’”’”’”’”-
      Greg Timko

      Click Here For More Information on Dowry Creek Marina

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    • Jul 24, 2009by:   Claiborne Young No Comments

      Alligator River Anchorages (Statute Mile 102)

      On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:

      22. After cruising south for a some 17 miles the AICW/Alligator River channel turns sharply west near marker #39. Between #39 and the northeastern entrance to the long, Alligator ‘“ Pungo canal, there are multiple place to anchor off Deep Point, Bear Point and Tuckahoe Point. Who has dropped the hook on any of these havens? Please describe what you found.

      Responses follow:

      We anchored north of G43 in August 2008 and June 2009. Lots of mosquitoes and flies both times, so we used our hatch screens and stayed inside. Not the most protected place we’ve been but better than it looks on the chart.
      Rick

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    • Jul 24, 2009by:   Claiborne Young No Comments

      Crab Pots Along Pasquotank River/AICW and Albemarle Sound

      This is certainly not the first report we have had of crab pots and fish trips littering the waters of northern Albemarle Sound. This time, Captain Chase’s report refers to the waters of “lower Pasquotank River” which is part of the Dismal Swamp Canal Route alternate AICW passage. These pests would certainly make nighttime passage here frought with peril.

      I’ve never seen so many pots as lower Pasquatank and up the sound to Little River (early July 09). My full keel seems to miss them and sailed that whole section but do not envy those with exposed props.
      Chase

      What I wanted to point out has to do with he Pasquotank coming off the Sound. Crab Pots everywhere !!! There was no channel; it was absolutely horrible and remained that way until you reached fresh water toward Elizabeth City. Daylight travel only and extreme caution needed.
      Pat Kenefick

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    • Jul 23, 2009by:   Claiborne Young No Comments

      Manteo Waterfront Marina (Roanoke Island – Roanoke Sound)

      On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:

      16. Let’s continue our `off the Waterway’ queries, by journeying east from Albemarle Sound to the northern headwaters of Roanoke and Croatan Sounds. These bodes of water are divided by historic Roanoke Island. Cruisers can follow the Roanoke Sound channel south to Shallowbag Bay and the Manteo city waterfront and marina (a SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR). Who has visited Manteo by water? Did you discover any shallow water or marker confusion on either the sound or Shallowbag Bay channels? Please describe what you found ashore in Manteo. Did you discover any particularly good places to slake a healthy appetite?

      Responses follow:

      We visited Manteo in June 2009. No shallow spots in the channel that I recall. Our route from Manteo was through the channel east, then north that leads into Albemarle Sound. I nice restaurant, the Full Moon, is directly across the street from the town dock master’s office. Friendly people in town. We enjoyed the side trip to the Outer Banks. Very nice clean showers and laundry at the marina.
      Rick

      We went to Manteo the next day, the Sound was calm. Plenty of crabpots though. You only have to follow the markers into Manteo, and you’ll be fine. The channel going out Roanoke Sound has the red markers on the left, the cut channel into Manteo has them on the right (you’re returning). Keep that in mind and you’ll have no problem. Had a very good dinner at the restaurant 1587, I think it is, next to the Marina.
      Bill & Claudia Bagwell
      M/V RUNAWAY

      Manteo – we sailed from Ocracoke there last year and loved it. Caught over 50 Spanish Mackeral on the way in and stayed three days. The city dock folks were friendly and it is an easy walk over to the Elizabeth II. Rental cars are sparce so reserve in advance.
      Wright and Gladys Anderson
      First & Ten

      We were traveling South in early June on our sailboat. Coming off of the sound to begin the trek to Manteo I found to be “confusing” ; once rounding the Northern section of the island the channel was quite clear all the way into town.
      This was our second trip and stay in Manteo by water. My wife especially enjoys staying in Manteo – obviously the shops which are also suffering this year and some gone due to the economy. One of the items that really makes this a great stay is the park across from the docks; beautiful grounds and free concerts if you catch it on Fridays. Last year we saw the Chinese Acrobats and this year we caught the NC Symphony ; outside , under the stars and FREE. Excellent stop. Ortegas on this trip was good and Poor Richards for standard fare sandwiches, burgers etc.
      Having a 48 ft. mast we had to take the route from Manteo down to Wanchese and out to the Pamlico. All well marked and as opposed to last year I found point of transition from Green to starboard to Red Right return marked very well although the numbers have apparently changed ; did not match the chart marker numbers – had I not been through here before I may have really been confused because of this number situation.
      Pat Kenefick

      Click Here For More Information on Manteo Waterfront Marina

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    • Jul 23, 2009by:   Claiborne Young No Comments

      Columbia Town Docks (Scuppernong River, off Albemarle Sound)

      On 7/23/09, as part of a `North Carolina Wish List,’ I posed the following question:

      15. Also, on the southern shores of Albemarle Sound, beautiful Scuppernong River leads upstream to Columbia, NC, where you will find free city docks. Who has visited Columbia lately? What did you find ashore? Any good places to eat?

      Responses follow:

      We stopped in Columbia and used their small town dock. Only stayed for an hour. Just long enough to walk a few blocks, stretch our legs and window shop. It was mid morning so we weren’t looking for restaurants. Smaller then Edenton, not as much to do or see but a welcome break for us. The river makes a great anchorage. A nice place to take a short break.
      Rick

      Columbia, NC we are here as I type and plan to stay another night. Great free dock with city water and great new bathhouse. Several restaurants and a helpful marine center.
      Wright and Gladys Anderson
      First & Ten

      Click Here For More Information on the Columbia Town Docks

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    • Jul 23, 2009by:   Claiborne Young No Comments

      Edenton Town Docks (western Albemarle Sound)

      On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:

      13. The historic city of Edenton, NC is located near the western extreme of Albemarle Sound. Several years ago, the city marina here was vastly expanded, and a new breakwater was built. The downtown business district is within easy walking distance. Who has berthed at Edenton City Marina? Did you have a good experience here? Did you find some good places to eat ashore? Did you experience any of Edenton’s historic attractions?

      Responses follow:

      We spent 3 days in Edenton. I would have spent a month if we weren’t trying to get to the Chesapeake before the end of the fall 2008 cruising season. We visited Oriental, Washington, Bath, Edenton, Hertford and Columbia. Edenton and Bath are not to be missed. Well, none are to be missed. We intended to spend a week in the rivers and sounds west of the Outer Banks and ended up staying for 25 days. The town dock master in Edenton took us grocery shopping. Clean restrooms. No laundry but the dock master will take you to a Laundromat if you ask. Frank is a very nice man who seems to really enjoy helping people. The restaurants and downtown stores were very nice. Too numerous to name them all. Sean’s was the best restaurant. Excellent food and chatty bar patrons. Waterman’s we found mediocre. The town is beautiful. We found new and interesting stuff around every corner and we walked a lot. I think we saw every historic building and marker within walking distance of the town dock. If it weren’t for cold winters, I would move to Edenton in a heart beat.
      Rick

      We spent a few days in Edenton at the town dock. Again, information we gleaned from Skipper Bob’s book. The first 2 days at the dock are free, after that it’s a $1 a foot. Electricity $3 per night.
      When we were headed toward Edenton, after passing under the bridge, there are some electrical wires that the charts say are 80ft. of clearance. As we approached and saw the sag of the wires over the main channel, somehow they didn’t seem that high. We have about a 46ft. mast clearance. Needless to say we were a bit nervous going under. Also I should mention that squall was developing and coming our way. I was glad we plotted a waypoint on the GPS because as we got into the squall the laptop quit because the battery went dead. I wathched the wind go from about 12 knots and gust up to a little over 30 knots right on our nose. It was weird though because there wasn’t any rain with it. Our visibilty was hampered for about 15 to 20 min. so we just steered on that waypoint to the first entrance marker. The wind died down and cleared up so we could spot our entrance into Edenton. Once we got in and secure, the dockmaster a very cordial fellow offered to drive us into town for ice cream at that local Dairy Queen. We stayed for a few days there. I had to look into a mechanical problem before leaving. We also had a friend visit from home who took us grocery shopping and went to “Rocky Hock Playhouse” for a show. We kinda know the owners and they said we were the first to sail to come see one of there shows.
      The town of Edenton was splendid, we ate a Italian restaurant on main street and enjoyed walking around town the time we were there.
      Clif & Peta Lewis
      s/v Immanuel

      Click Here For More Information on the Edenton Town Docks

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    • Jul 23, 2009by:   Claiborne Young No Comments

      Visiting Hertford, NC (Perquimans River, off Albemarle Sound)

      On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:

      12. Leaving the AICW, and moving west on broad Albemarle Sound, has anyone followed the beautiful Perquimans River upstream to Hertford? Did you anchor upstream of the `S’ bridge? Did you dinghy in to downtown Herford? What were your impressions of this community.

      Responses follow:

      We anchored south of the bridge at Hertford in August 2008. Used the dink to go to the boat ramp up stream of the 2nd bridge. The grocery store you mentioned in your current guide was closed and had been for some time. Shame on you. Most restaurants were closed. We met a very nice couple who moved to Hertford from somewhere in NY state. They bought an older home on the waterfront and are restoring it. They visited with us for a couple of hours on our boat. Our impression is of a very friendly town, but your guide book was out of date. We loved our walk through the waterfront neighborhood. The people we met recommended the Albemarle Plantation and Edenton. We are so glad we visited both. The waters west of the Outer Banks are a gold mine of little towns and anchorages. Please keep it a secret. Crowds will ruin it for cruisers and for the local folks.
      Rick

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    • Jul 23, 2009by:   Claiborne Young No Comments

      AICW Passage Across Albemarle Sound

      On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:

      The AICW passage across Albemarle Sound is known as the single roughest section of the entire Waterway from Norfolk, VA to Key West, FL. Who has experienced a wild Albemarle crossing? Please share your experience with us, and offer any advice you may have to minimize these potentially difficult waters.

      Responses follow:

      We went from North River to Manteo for a day then from Manteo to the Alligator River the next day. The winds both days were 15 knot easterlies according to VHF – WX observations. Great sailing conditions for our Morgan 384. First day was a beat the second day was down wind. I think seas might have been 2′. Probably not desirable conditions for small and mid size power boats, but great sailing.
      Rick

      Our crossing was extremely rough. The weather report was incorrect and we thought we were going to get 1-2 ft. waves with 5-10 and got 4-5ft waves with 20+ winds. While the winds were from the west pushing the waves into us broadside, the passage was miserable. We learned what needed to be stowed below better real fast. Stuff was everywhere.
      It got better as we turned into the shifted winds tho slower……We have a 44ft blue water capable sailboat but we were getting the snot kicked out of us. For a more enjoyable trip, choose as perfect weather as you can. This shallow broad expanse can get very nasty.

      I had a rough passage going north across the Albemarle – my boat rolls badly in East / West side winds. But it isn’t all that bad – you’re only out of sight of land for a half hour or so. I broke a couple of glasses
      Best wishes
      Arnold Parkinson
      The British Club Worldwide
      www.britishclubworldwide.com

      Albemarle sound was pretty good for us. We sailed for awhile until the crab pots were just too much to deal with. The seas there were quite pleasant.
      Clif & Peta Lewis
      s/v Immanuel

      Albemarle Sound can be a be `messy’ with the open water and wind, especially during the middle of the day and early afternoon. I try to plan my crossing for the early morning (before 8am) when going south and early evening (after 5pm) when going north. At these times, the wind is not up as much and the water reasonably calm ‘“ well, less choppy. When that doesn’t work out, I just find a good cruise speed that minimizes the pounding and spray and accept that fact that I will be giving my boat a good hosing off when I stop for the night.
      Pete

      Southbound with forcast winds of 15 to 20 we left Coinjock at 0630. Was two thirds the way accross the sound before the seas built to3 to 4 feet. Adjusted power to adjust speed for best handling. Sloppy but no problem. Just a lot of work.
      Dave
      on GB 46 At Last

      The only time our cat, Jake, has ever gotten seasick was when we were crossing the Albemarle Sound against the wind. Longest 20 miles ever. I suspect it tricks a lot of ocean cruisers who can’t believe an inland body of water can get so messy so fast. If in a sailboat and you can’t motorsail upwind effectively, might as well wait a day.
      Marilyn

      Miles 51 to 82 – Albemarle Sound. With inclement weather almost daily, I found a gap via NOAA Weather and set off from Elizabeth City around 11am. It was fairly rough in Albemarle – and with any degree of side winds and waves my boat rolls badly. But by means of my patented zig zagging process, we arrived at the Alligator River marker around 6.30pm. I had no trouble going through the entry point – though I do think it essential to first start at marker QG31 – if you try to bypass it then the subsequent markers can become confusing and dangerous. I safely anchored in the Little Alligator just as the sun was setting. Phew!
      Arnold

      Hope to cross the Albemarle in late April, pending sea trial and completion of sale on a Maryland trawler. Figure to cross the Albemarle about mid-day if plans hold. Thanks cruisers for all your notes!
      Ben

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    • Jul 23, 2009by:   Claiborne Young No Comments

      Coinjock Marinas (Statute Mile 50)

      Coinjock Marina, your #1 stop for good fuel prices and great dining on the AICW/North Carolina - Virginia CutOn 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:

      8. The tiny village of Coinjock (Statute Mile 50) boasts two first class marina facilities. Both also have very good restaurants on site. Who has coiled their lines at either Midway Marina or Coinjock Marina lately? Did you dine ashore? Please describe your marina experience.

      Responses follow:

      We stayed at Coinjock Marina on both trips mentioned above. Absolutely first class friendly professional people work there. Crab cakes are outstanding. The home made potato chips probably took 6 months off my life span (cholesterol), but they are worth it. When we head north again we will take the Virginia Cut route just so we can eat at the restaurant. Face docks are in excellent condition. Clean restrooms Washers and dryers a little on the high side of average ($2.00 each if we recall correctly). Deceptive current and not necessarily wind driven. Current is nothing like what you experience south of Beaufort but there is some.
      Rick

      We stayed at Coinjock [Marina] and were very happy. The restaurant is very good. We stayed 4 nights and ate there four times, dinner twice and lunch twice. Everything was above average, with great if not casual service. Both the soups they offer were good but the crab bisque was absolutely outstanding. It was garnished with a huge dollop of crab meat and I wanted to lick the bowl. The crab chowder was very good too and chock full of corn and potatoes. But the bisque was so good……I suppose on our way back Ill have a cup of chowder for a starter and the big bowl of bisque for an entre! The also serve up prime rib in portions that are almost embarassing. Ours got us thru dinner that night, then with eggs the next day and my version of a Philly cheese steak sandwich for lunch. So 5 meals in all…….well worth the price.
      We enjoyed the outdoor patio on cooler evenings. The marina staff were polite, attentive and helpful. For such a small area, it is big on the things transients need. We have dogs aboard and they enjoyed long walks. All in all Coinjock is a friendly, family owned business in a rural setting run in a business-like way.
      Sami and Barry Shreve
      s/v Ever After

      I guess we are a bit the “contrarians” because we stop at Midway Marina on the west side instead of Conjock Marina with the famous prime rib dinner. Our first time heading south down the ICW in December 2005 we stopped at Conjock Marina (really late in the season for heading south). Went into the restaurant next to the marina and the waitress said we should try the crab cakes – now Claiborne I know you are going to find this hard to believe but Lynn & I had never tasted crab nor had a crab cake before. The waitress brought us a small sample and the rest is history. We love the crab cakes at that restaurant and always compare other crab cakes to theirs. We have even called ahead to order crab cakes to go when we’re traveling through.
      Bob & Lynn Williamson
      On Legrace in the Erie Canal at Spencerport NY (enjoying this weekend’s canal festival)

      We ate lunch at restuarant at Coinjock Marina. Plenty of room on long face dock, but watch the current when you land. Dockhands were helpful and understanding. Heard about restuarant from local the night before in Norfolk; he said he takes his family all the way down there once a week to eat. We were not disappointed, food, service and prices were excellent. I would not pass it up going south or north any time of the day. Did not spend the night as we had a lot of ground to cover that trip.
      John Thayer

      We were traveling South in a sailboat; stayed at Midway Marina which was fine; friendly, rest room / shower clean and reasonable. Had lunch at Crabbies and it was good; friends picked us up for dinner at Coinjock Marina famed for their prime rib. It was very good but not to make a special trip for. Enjoyed watching the mega – yachts docking there
      Pat Kenefick

      I always stay at Coinjock Marina ‘“ it just seems to work out as a convenient spot whether running north or south. While I tend to not like marinas that are directly adjacent to the ICW (in this case, part of the channel), it seems everyone understands that this is a place to go very slow and respect the many boats that are docked along the sea wall. Coinjock Marina fuel prices have always been fair, the staff is always helpful, the head and showers are modern and clean (recently updated) and the marina store is well stocked with typical items you might need to care for or provision your boat. But the best part is the restaurant. Great food, well poured drinks and friendly service make this among my favorites. Last year, we arrived a little late into the marina, tired and dirty, so the idea of getting cleaned up to go inside was not what we really wanted to do. No problem, we were able to order from the same great menu and have our dinner delivered `room service’ style to the boat. Nice touch!
      Pete

      We did stop at Coinjock, the service at the marina and the restaurant was friendly, and efficient, it was a ;pleasant stop we made in order to rendezvous with friends on another boat. the food is not fantastic, but very adequate, the large roast prime rib obviously came from an oversized steer, and had a hugh amount of waste, (fat), and the flavor was mediocre; but then we come from the land of great beef, (Iowa) and are a bit picky. If the stop fits your schedule, and you planned to make a marina stop anyway, then go for it. We have also stopped, (about six years ago) at the marina across the way, and found that equally as nice, plus they have a pool, a big bonus if he weather is hot.
      BEV AND DAVE FEIGES
      ABOARD CLOVERLEAF

      Regarding Coinjock – it appears that the Coinjock Marina is perfectly happy to take sailboaters’ money for fuel, but they hold their dock space for goldplate powerboats. After buying fuel there six weeks ago, I requested a transient spot, which was denied, despite the fact there was at least 100 feet of dock – my boat is 34 feet. The excuse was that a large powerboat was expected later in the day.
      No powerboat ever did show up and the dockmanager at the Midway marina told me that sending sailboats to the Midway has been a common practice now for some time. Although it’s small potatoes, I’ll buy my 8 or 10 gallons of fuel from Midway from now on, or simply not stop in Coinjock at all.
      The Midway, btw, has a lovely large grassy area for pets, a pool, good docks and a store with a variety of supplies.
      Wally Moran

      Click Here For More Information on Midway Marina and Motel

      Click Here For More Information on Coinjock Marina

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    • Jul 23, 2009by:   Claiborne Young No Comments

      North Carolina AICW Passage Through Currituck Sound

      On 7/23/09, as part of a “North Carolina Wish List,” I posed the following question:

      7. Let us now turn our attention to the primary AICW route, often termed the `North Carolina ‘“ Virginia Cut.’ This passage crosses into North Carolina waters south of North Landing River, flows through a small portion of Currituck Sound, and then through a man-made canal, past the marina rich village of Coinjock, NC. From Statute Mile 40 to 45, there have been many reports over the years of shallow water, or underwater hardware damage from pilings driven just below the water’s surface to guard against shoaling of the AICW channel. Has anyone experienced shallow depths here recently, or has anyone found the underwater pilings

      Responses follow:

      We love the Virginia Cut. We went through it north bound in August 2008 and south bound in June 2009. We never saw less than 8′ MLW from mile marker 0 to the exit from the North River into the Albemarle Sound. Absolutely no problems with underwater obstructions. Follow the markers. Look over your shoulder to check for drift if there is a cross wind. The sound gives us a great opportunity to sail when the wind is right. Traffic was light. We’ve not done the Dismal Swamp route. Everyone says it’s nice, but since we can’t sail in that route, it seemed a less attractive option to us.
      Rick

      I have thankfully not experienced any issues with underwater pilings (yikes that is scary), but the waters from MM40-45 into Coinjock are indeed rather skinny especially if you drift outside the very narrow channel. While I have a lot of confidence in my GPS chart plotter, I only use my `eyes’ to navigate between the markers paying close attention to the changes in my depth sounder to stay `centered’. This is not a good area to overtake another vessel, so if you get caught behind a slow poke, remember it’s just 5-7 miles before you get back into `wider’ water.
      Peter Ferrara
      `Laitudes’

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