An Excellent Visit To Bald Head Island (off the AICW, at the Mouth of North Carolina’s Cape Fear River)
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Came into the marina on July 1 to get out of a 70kt thunderstorm. The storm produced an area-wide power outage and the owners and staff wanted to get home to deal with the outage. In spite of that they stayed at the dock, guided me in (first time in Bellhaven), and stayed until I was secure at the dock. They couldn’t offer any amenities as the power outage lasted for more 36 hours, but I was impressed with the level of personal service they provided.
Agree, it’s not the prettiest marina I’ve been, but it definitely was a good port in a storm.
John
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As Keith attests, Nine Foot Shoal Channel has been slowly losing its depth for the last year or so. As you consider using this route into Ocracoke, keep in mind that this channel is named a “shoal channel”! Note too, that the primary entrance from Pamlico Sound to Ocracoke and Silver Lake Harbor is the Big Foot Slough Channel, which the vast majority of cruising craft and both Ocracoke car ferries use! However, this channel can shoal from time to time as well, as you can see in earlier comments we’ve received, BUT, due to the car ferries, the state will usually dredge the Big Foot Slough Channel fairly regularly.
Cruising News:
I have been sailing out to Ocracoke for almost 20 years and almost always enter via Nine Foot Shoal Channel.
I chuckled last year when I read a review on this site where somebody correctly stated that it should be referred to as Seven Foot Shoal Channel. I want to say that as of this summer, it should now be known as 5 1/2 Foot Shoal Channel. I used the channel about a week ago and found 5 1/2 feet of water between markers 8 and 6 at low water.
The rest of the channel held depths of at least 10 feet, but what does that matter if you can’t get over the hump?
I draw less than 4 1/2 feet, so for now, I’ll continue using this shortcut and keep y’all posted.
Keith s/v SAGA
Construction on this municipal dock was begun this past fall and its completion is very welcome news for folks wanting to visit the charming town of Belhaven, NC. Docking is free with a 24 hour limit and the dock also provides dinghy dockage for cruisers anchored in the nearby Pantego Creek Anchorage.
Great stop, walk to restaurants, hardware store and real estate offices. The Belhaven Water Street Bed and Breakfast is a block down the street.
Andrew Fisher
We stopped at the Belhaven Town Dock a week or so ago, on a Sunday. Across the street we talked to the hardware store owner who is also the Town Manager. He’s very enthusiastic about the dock and told us that by the end of the summer he expects that water and electric hook-ups will be installed.
BTW, there is no place in town after 2pm on Sunday to go for a meal.
Wade Ehlen
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The charming river village of Columbia lies along the Scuppernong River, which makes into the southern shores of Albemarle Sound, west of the AICW’s passage across this body of water. In addition to the free city docks, there is also a private marina and boatyard known as Cypress Landing. The only disadvantage to this latter facility is their location on the opposite side of the river and Highway 64 bridges from Columbia’s downtown district.
Using your “Cruising Guide to North Carolina” as a resource, we recently cruised up the Scuppernong River to Columbia, intending to use the town docks. Immediately past the marina, and within sight of the town docks, we had to stop and turn back due to some low branches overhanging the waterway. Our boat is a 36′ Marine Trader trawler with a flybridge, so sailboats and boats like ours would have to stop, although lower boats can make it.
Wade Ehlen, MT 36 Shady Lady, New Bern NC
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The Edenton Town Docks overlook the Edenton city waterfront, north of unlighted daybeacon #8. Edenton, one of the Colonial Capitals of North Carolina, lies well off the AICW, on the western reaches of Albemarle Sound.
The charted power lines that Wade mentions below cross the width of Abemarle Sound from Horniblow Point to Mackeys.
In addition, today we cruised into Edenton, which is just as you described [in “Cruising Guide to North Carolina”], except Mario’s Restaurant has been sold and is now known as Kristys Place. Anyway, on the way to Edenton, we went under the overhead power lines [as charted], but there weren’t any lines! There are a couple of barges with cranes, however, so I think they’re stringing new lines.
Wade Ehlen,
MT 36 Shady Lady,
New Bern NC
A couple of days ago I emailed you about the “missing” power lines as you cruise towards Edenton NC. Well, today I spoke with the captain of one of the tugs working with the barges – he told me that the TOWERS are going to be replaced with higher ones, so I guess the project will be going on for a while.
Wade Ehlen
MT Shady Lady
New Bern NC
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During a June, 2012 cruise to Beaufort, we came strolling into Spouter’s main Front Street entrance, and were surprised and more than a little pleased by an entirely new, pastel color scheme running the full length of the entrance hall. Equally eye pleasing was a collection of local art displayed down the hallway. We soon learned that this same, new, light and airy color scheme had been carried throughout the entire dining establishment. Please be SURE to follow the “Click Here For Photo Gallery” link below to see for yourself.
After strolling down the hallway, we were, if possible, even more pleased to learn that more than the color scheme had changed. Part of the interior dining room has been converted to a very cozy bar, with a good view of Taylor Creek out the back. We stopped here for an “attitude adjustment,” and were totally charmed by this new enhancement.
If your waistline can stand it, don’t miss Spouter’s dessert tray, and, particularly, their on-site bakery, which is found just to the right as you enter from Front Street. My oh my, my appetite is going crazy just typing this article.
Trust me on this one fellow cruisers, heed the call, and don’t dare miss Spouter Inn when next your vessel is snuggled into either Beaufort Town Docks or anchored on the tranquil waters of Taylor Creek.
And, very conveniently for we of the cruising persuasion, the westernmost of Beaufort/Taylor Creek’s two dinghy docks is located next door to Spouter Inn! What more could one ask for?
See you there!
Back on 3/12/12, we published a report here on the SSECN (see /?p=81815), about a new downtown Beaufort, NC grocery story that was about to open at the corner of Front and Queen Streets, within a block of the Beaufort Town Docks. At the time of our first visit, the store was just about to open, and things looked promising, but ever since, we’ve been itching to return and check out the finished product.
Well, that’s exactly what happened during the week of June 11, 2012. And what we found was MOST impressive. Really, with no exaggeration or embellishment, I can’t remember when I have ever seen such a well laid out, beautifully merchandised small grocery store as what we found at Taylor Creek Grocery (252-838-1495, 525 Front Street). PLEASE follow the “Click Here For Photo Album” button below to check out the visual images for yourself!
We also had occasion to twice try out the in-store deli, and we can attest that the Reuben and turkey sandwiches are first-rate, not to mention the fudge brownies.
So, when next your travels take your vessel to the shores of Taylor Creek, possibly North Carolina’s single most popular port of call, run, don’t walk to Taylor Creek Grocery. You won’t be sorry!
I guess quality has its price, but I was in that store last week, and the prices were outrageously high. So, enjoy, but bring a thick wallet.
Ed
Since the 1970’s, Karen Ann and I have passed the R. E. Mayo Docks, directly flanking the western side of the AICW, on the canal-like Hobucken Cut, at least several hundred times. This narrow stream connects the Waterway between Pamilco and Bay Rivers. We have always thought of these piers and their shoreside buildings as a commercial fishing complex, and have never really thought of tying up for the night, though I did drive here once many years ago, and recall being impressed by the on-site marine supply store!
So, do you want the good news, or the less than good news first. Let’s start with the latter. The only way to describe the fixed wooden face docks at the R. E. Mayo facility is “rough.” They seem to be sturdy, and we did observe any number of serviceable 30 amp power hookups, but some of the boarding was uneven, and there was seemingly hap-hazard debris lying around here and there. Also, there are no shoreside showers nor a laundromat, and there are absolutely no restaurants within anything like striking distance.
HOWEVER, both gasoline and diesel fuel can be purchased, there is good shelter from foul weather, and the excellent on-site seafood and marine supply store is just about the last thing you would expect from looking at the utilitarian exterior of the main buildings. Be SURE to follow the “Click Here For Photo Gallery” link below to learn more about this fascinating store.
And, by the way, a wide selection of fresh and frozen seafood can be purchased in the store. Recently, the owners have constructed a HUGE, refrigeration building across the street which houses a wide selection of frozen catch of the day and other from-the-water goodies. Don’t miss the “COLORFUL” outhouses between the main building and the seafood cold storage center! Depending on the season, visiting cruisers can often purchase shrimp and other seafood literally right off the boats.
The cost of overnight dockage, or lack thereof, at the R. E. Mayo Docks should also not be overlooked. At a current rate of only 40 cents per foot, per night, these are, at least in my experience, the least expensive on the Waterway wet berths in both Carolinas!
So, clearly an overnight stop at the R. E. Mayo Seafood Docks is not for everyone. No captain or crew will ever mistake this place for Pier 66 or the Morehead City Yacht Basin. Then, again, if you have a bit of the adventurous about you, and would like to try something decidedly different, with a really good marine and seafood store thrown in for good measure, give this facility a try. And, PLEASE LET US KNOW ABOUT YOUR EXPERIENCE!
Thanks so much for this info, Claiborne. We, too, have passed this place dozens of times, just wondering. We may give it a try next time.
Diana
Dowry Creek Marina is a fine family owned and family run marina that has received MANY laudatory reviews here on the Cruisers’ Net. This facility lies off the AICW/Pungo River, north of Belhaven.
We seldom go to marinas, and there are all sorts of places to anchor out nearby, but this time we stopped just to be sociable, and we were not disappointed. There is a lovely pool, important when the weather is hot, and Mary gathered up everyone she could and had a gathering in the party room, just because I mentioned we were hoping for some visiting. You can’t get more gracious than that. We will make this a must do stop in the future as so many of our friends have always done.
Beverly Feiges
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The Great Dismal Swamp Canal route southbound departs the AICW south of Norfolk at Statute Mile 7.2 and begins officially at Deep Creek Lock at Mile 10.6. The Visitors Center is at approximately Mile 28. Elizabeth City is south of South Mills Lock at Statute Mile 50.7 and is A SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR!
Cruising between Norfolk, VA, and the Alligator River, NC, Captains must face the decision whether to go the Great Dismal route or the Virginia Cut route. I’d pick the Great Dismal every time.
First of all boaters traveling south will meet very possibly the worlds friendliest lockkeeper Robert ‘“ who is also an expert on the local history and fauna of the swamp. You can stay overnight in his Deep Creek Lock approach at the Elizabeth Dock ‘“ right next to a charming park and within walking distance of a grocery store.
Then you have the North Carolina Visitors Center with a museum all about the Swamp and a huge selection of free maps and brochures with spotlessly clean restrooms and friendly staff.
South Mills Lock, 23 miles south, will also get you in and out inside a half hour at the scheduled opening times ‘“ and in their approach you can dock for a while and buy the best southern fried chicken I’ve ever tasted. Always a bit of an adventure going through a lock’¦’¦..
Lambs Marina also (at the southern end of the swamp) offers a large selection of services, the only fuel stop between the Alligator River and Portsmouth and the lowest slip rates on the entire ICW. (see their web site at www.lambsmarinanc.com ) Transients are welcome!
And finally you have Elizabeth City with a great tradition of welcoming visiting boaters via the `Rose Buddies’, the substantial Albemarle Museum and free pickup service by a local grocery store.
Contrary to scuttlebutt often heard, the Great Dismal Swamp Route is not `shallow in places’ . Mid channel is a carefully maintained minimum 7 ft and often much deeper. There are said to be cypress logs floating everywhere ‘“ I have yet to see one. The Corps of Engineers do an excellent job of dredging all year round. They also by the way trim overhanging tree branches ‘“ so you have no danger of your mast being damaged providing you stay in the channel.
By contrast, the Virginia Cut Route is said to be faster and safer ‘“ that must have been written by the big sportsfishers barreling along at 15 knots in front of their 6ft wakes! Or the huge barges frequently seen who cannot stop even if you are dead in front of them. More or less once a week I hear of some boat aground south of Coinjock calling for towing assistance. None of these things happen frequently on the Great Dismal.
The Swamp route itself is somewhat spooky in a pleasant way. Full of history starting in the days of George Washington when a ditch was manually cut by slaves in an attempt to get lumber to the northern cities of Chesapeake Bay. As you travel through you get a sense of prehistoric times with many kinds of animals to be seen in their natural surroundings ‘“ maybe if you’re lucky, one the substantial number of black bears on the prowl. I think of Humphrey Bogart and Katherine Hepburn in the African Queen.
Two great mooring spots to note. First at the top end, just north east of the Deep Creek Lock, what locals call the `Hole in the Wall’ – 12 ft water inside, 6 ft at the entrance. And don’t miss mooring behind Goat Island just south of the South Mills Lock. Be sure to check out the wood dock and boardwalk which goes all over the island.
By contrast the Virginia Cut is ‘“ well let’s face it fellow Captains – Boooooring’¦’¦..
So I raise a toast to the Great Dismal Swamp Canal ‘“ May it never close.
You should try it sometime. You’re always welcome.
Captain Parky, MV ‘˜Pisces’
I find the Dismal Swamp Route more enjoyable. Elizabeth City is one of the gems of hospitality with its free town dock, “wine” and “cheese” parties, and waterfront events. The upper Pasquotank River is simply beautiful (kind of like the Waccamaw), and the canal is gorgeous. If you have time, tie up for the night at the welcome center, or dinghy up to Lake Drummond. Whichever way you go, have fun…they’re both nice routes.
Mike
Depending on your preference, either route is worth the trip. The Dismal Swamp is beautiful and much more peaceful and remote. The stop at Elizabeth City is wonderful. Traveling through the DS Canal means slow going and you have two locks to time for your transit. The Welcome Center is always everyone’s favorite stops. It will take a bit longer than the traditional ICW route if you are in a hurry, which I hope you’re not. There have been occasional issues with debris in the Dismal Swamp Canal so go slow and pay attention, and of course your draft will matter. On the other
hand, we often like to stop in Great Bridge and take advantage of the free tie up and the short walk to restaurants and shopping if taking the ICW route. Have a great trip.
Chuck
We’ve done both and if your draft will let you, take the dismal swamp route at least once. It’s awesome. Especially the part of the river leading up to it from Elizabeth City. Take care to time your arrival at the south lock as
they won’t let you in to wait. Stop at the visitors center. Take your time. Spend the night. Check with the lockmaster at the north lock to determine what time he’ll open the bridge if you want to tie up on the long dock.
Take a look at the distance if you plan to do it in one day. That will mean skipping the visitors center and traveling around 6 to 7 mph (5 -6 knots).
But, if you’re a full displacement boat, at 6 – 7 mph you’ll start to lift stuff off the bottom (old logs) that could hit your props or rudder (depending on how they are protected) and definitely throw up obstacles for the boats following. You’ll also suck a lot of water away from the banks at this speed which will exacerbate erosion.
If you go the Coinjock route, make sure you get your order in for the Prime Rib early. The 32 oz is ridiculously large.
Bob & Kemba DeGroot
We appreciate all of the kind words and raves. Of course, we are in favor of everyone whose draft will allow, visiting the Great Dismal Swamp Canal. It truly is one of the `last Wild Places, and a step back in time. Come enjoy the view.
Donna Stewart, Director, Great Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Center
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Old House Channel and Oregon Inlet Channel connect Pamlico Sound and Roanoke Sound and form the main/bridgeless northbound route into Manteo, NC. Please see Note C on Chart 12205 regarding frequently shifted navigation aids in these channels.
Old House channel was a piece of cake but knowing the marking convention ahead of time, prevented confusion. [Northbound Old House Channel is Red to Port until Marker #36 where Red becomes Starboard into Manteo]
Chase
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The Manteo/Doughs Creek Anchorage lies east of the Manteo, NC cottage/screw pile lighthouse monument, and well northwest of Shallowbag Bay Channel marker #10.
The Doughs Creek anchorage is a great spot for a NE blow. It blew 20-25 kts over the past two days and there is little fetch and holding is good. My Crealock 34 is riding to a 35 lb CQR and a 33 lb Bruce, but the Bruce is probably not necessary. The dock is a short ride in the dink and everything you could need is at your feet, including the outer banks. It is mid-June, and the beaches are closed to swimming, it is a heck of a nor’ easter for this time of year.
Chase
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Jarrett Bay is actually located north of Beaufort, NC, on the Core Creek Canal section of the AICW. This is a superb facility for dry storage, and for any sort of repair work. There are many repair firms on-site, including our friends at Core Creek Marine. And, oh yes, even though Jarrett Bay is not strictly a marina, there is some transient dockage available by the fuel dock, and both gasoline and diesel fuel can be purchased.
Just to pass on experience at Jarrett Bay:
I stopped on a Saturday to try to find a small part which had some immediate importance but that is not the story. There was an ancient trawler in the slings belonging to an equally ancient couple headed back to the NE. They had struck something and had serious vibration. Turns out that Jarrett Bay had come in on a day they were closed, the manager and two helpers, to lift them out to fix the problem. They could find nothing wrong, maybe something had hung up on the props and had cleared.
The notable thing was they did not charge them a cent. Not even for the short haul. The owner did tip the dockhands. Now that is service.
BTW they did not have the part i needed they gave me something that was a temporary fix, also for free.
Keep these guys on your list if you need work done near Beaufort.
Gregory Han
Jarrett Bay is also a Detroit Covington dealer, parts and repair center. I’ve had good service on my Covington 6V92’s Jesse is the parts guy there.Prices are reasonable and factory Detroit oil and fuel filters are downright cheap.
Phil.
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Took 2 footers on the swim platty while berthed there and got no sleep. Lesson learned. Nice people, complimentary golf cart to go into town and decent wifi. Would stay there again, but not with an E SE or S blow.
KJ
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The approach channel to Beach House Marina cuts southeast from the Waterway, southwest of unlighted marker #69, and just northeast of the Surf City swing bridge.
Cruising News:
Check www.wect.com for closing news on Beach House Marina, Surf City NC.
Capt Mike Wilmington NC
And this from the Pender-Topsail News and Voice and WWAY:
SURF CITY, NC (WWAY) — A marina in Surf City is closing, but the tenants are not the only ones affected. As the Pender-Topsail News & Voice was first to report, Wells Fargo, which owns Surf City Beach House Marina, delivered the news to people who keep their boat there yesterday.
“It’s been a pleasure being able to promote our entire village,” business owner Capt. David Luther said. “That’s gone now.”
For Luther and other tenants of the Beach House Marina, the past few days have been a whirlwind. Luther found out Tuesday he has to move his boats, one of which he lives on, by June 19. It’s a tough situation for him as he runs entertainment cruises from the Belle of Topsail and the pirate ship Raven.
“We’ve gotten very involved with all the businesses around here, because surprisingly enough, this marina feeds business,” Luther said. “We get back in at 8 p.m. because we do a sunset cruise, and at 8 p.m. you have been out having a good time, what do you want to do? Go somewhere else.”
Capt. Luther and his business are not the only ones affected by the closure of the marina. There are also those who own and live on boats here that will have to relocate.
“I really don’t have any plans,” tenant David Avery said. “We’re looking and trying to find out. We’ll probably have to moor here for a while until we find another place to go or figure out what’s going on… at least till my daughter gets done with school.”
Tenants have signed leases, and Capt. Luther even bought $30,000 worth of advertising promoting the location. They say it’s a nightmare they wish was not happening.
“I put everything I had into this, and then for them to come and give me 20 days to get the hell out, that’s painful,” Luther said.
Surf City Mayor Zander Guy says he does not want to see this happen. He says the town is looking into alternate options for the boats.
Click Here To View the Cruisers’ Net’s North Carolina Marina Directory Listing For Beachhouse Marina
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Earlier, we ran a series of photos showing the historic Roanoke River Screw Pile Lighthouse, freshly perched atop its new home overlooking Edenton Harbor and Town Docks (see /?p=87872). Then, just today, we received a fresh set of photos from Captain Greg Han, showing the lighthouse being moved to its new resting place. Excellent pics!
Cruising News:
Recently the Roanoke River lighthouse was installed in its permanent home at Edenton harbor. A party atmosphere took over the town park while the crews readied for the transfer from land to a platform over the harbor waters. House moving is a slow and careful business so the crowd thinned considerably by the time the crew was ready. The house was rolled across the divide inch by inch on a study network of girders.
Allegria had a front row seat in Edenton’s terrific town harbor (first two nights free).
Gregory Han
Follow the Photo Gallery link below to check out these images for yourself!
Bath Harbor Marina is located on the eastern shores of Bath Creek (off the Pamlico River), north of flashing daybeacon #4.
We now have 50 Amp service on the transient slips. Our 2012 daily rate is 1.25 per ft with water and power included.
Paul Minor
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I just visited Whittaker Pointe Marina in April of 2012, and found it to be a quiet facility, with superb showers and a welcoming swimming pool. This facility lies at the entrance to Whittaker Creek, a bit downstream of Oriental’s primary harbor.
Whittker Point in Oriental,clean friendly great Club House and Facilities,.If you want more city Bridgepoint Marina New Bern conveient resonable good Facilities.
Casual
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River Dunes, A SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET SPONSOR, found just off the AICW’s run up Neuse River, on Broad Creek, is battling it out with several other marinas for the greatest number of POSITIVE reviews here on the Cruisers’ Net. Below, Captain Cheoah, in a message copied from the Cruisers’ Forum, chimes in below with more words of praise!
River Dunes in Oriental, NC is about as nice as it gets. It is out in the boonies, but they have floating docks, a nice club house, hot tubs, swimming pool, bikes, wifi, exercise room and primo showers with AC. Oriental is a ten minute drive. They have a very nice loaner car, so no beater, and very competitive long term rates. I don’t care for marinas much and stay on a private mooring nearby, but we use River Dunes for all their services before and after cruises and feel at home there.
Cheoah
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