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    • In Favor of a Second, Lower Anchor Beacon – Loose Cannon

      Cruisers Net publishes Loose Cannon articles with Captain Swanson’s permission in hopes that mariners with saltwater in their veins will subscribe. $7 per month or $56 for the year; you may cancel at any time.

       

         
       
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      In Favor of a Second, Lower Anchor Beacon

      ‘Riding Light’ Raises Question of Compliance Versus Comprehension

       
       
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      Though we’ve never called it that, Loose Cannon’s Morgan Out Island 41 uses a “riding light” fueled by lantern oil.

      Neil Chapman is a lifelong sailor and founder of Boatshed, a U.K. based yacht brokerage with a big difference from its U.S. counterparts. He cruises on a Supertaff, a 1976 Rebel 41 ketch. This story was reprinted with permission from his BoatshedNeil Substack.


      There is a moment most sailors recognise. You are anchored for the night, the boat is settled, the water calm enough to reflect points of light.

      You glance up from whatever you were doing, perhaps your phone, perhaps a chart or a mug of tea, and you instinctively scan the water ahead. Not the sky. The water. The space where other hulls might be, where a dinghy might be crossing, where a boat might be swinging toward you on a different radius of chain.

      What you are looking for, whether you consciously realise it or not, is not brightness. It is meaning.

      In most modern anchorages, meaning has become harder to read.

      A Short History of a Small Light

      Traditionally, anchored vessels displayed what was often called a riding light. Not at the masthead, but forward, low enough to relate visually to the hull, high enough to clear spray and deck clutter, often hung from or near the forestay. It might sit eight or ten feet above the water. It would swing gently as the vessel rode to her anchor.

      This was not an affectation. It was practical design shaped by human behaviour. Most close-quarters traffic occurs at eye level. Most collision risk in anchorages is short-range, slow-speed, and human-scale. The riding light sat exactly where approaching eyes were already looking.

      Modern yachts, by contrast, tend to rely on a single all-round white anchor light at the masthead. On a 45-foot cruising yacht, that can mean a light 50 feet in the air. Bright, efficient, compliant. Also, in many cases, disconnected from the physical reality of the boat beneath it.

      This shift did not happen because someone decided riding lights were bad. It happened because masthead lights were easier to standardise, easier to certify, and easier to sell. One fitting, one wire run, one rule satisfied.

      That does not make the outcome either good or bad by default. But it does change how anchorages work as visual systems.

      The Anchorage Is Not Offshore

      Much of modern navigation equipment, and many modern conventions, are optimised for offshore conditions. There, range matters. Height matters. Visibility over waves matters. A high, bright, all-round light makes sense when vessels are separated by miles and closing speeds are high.

      An anchorage is a different environment entirely. It is crowded, slow, irregular, and informal. People move unpredictably. Dinghies weave through larger boats. Heads turn briefly, not deliberately. Attention is fragmented.

      In this context, the question is not “can this vessel be seen?” It is “can this situation be read quickly?”

      A masthead anchor light answers the first question well. It answers the second less well.

      Seen from a dinghy or a cockpit, a masthead light often floats, visually unmoored from the water. Depth cues are weak. It is not always obvious where the hull lies beneath it, or how far away it is. In a field of similar lights, the scene flattens. Everything becomes a constellation rather than a map.

      A lower riding light, by contrast, anchors the vessel visually to the water. It gives the eye a reference point that aligns with the way people actually scan their surroundings. It does not shout, but it explains.

      Share

      Compliance Versus Comprehension

      None of this is an argument against regulations. The collision regulations exist for good reasons, and modern anchor lights are entirely legitimate. The problem is not legality. It is the narrowing of seamanship to compliance alone.

      Over time, the incentive structure has shifted. Sailors are rewarded for ticking boxes, not for being readable. If the light meets the rule, the thinking often stops there. Day shapes are not hoisted because nobody looks for them. Nobody looks for them because nobody hoists them. The system decays quietly.

      This is not laziness in the moral sense. It is optimisation. People optimise for effort, cost, and perceived risk. In most anchorages, the perceived risk of miscommunication is low, until it isn’t.

      The riding light fell out of favour not because it failed, but because it was no longer required.

      Tech Fills the Gap, Imperfectly

      One might argue that this is all moot. We have AIS, chartplotters, radar, anchor alarms. The boat is visible electronically, even if the light is suboptimal. In many cases, that is true.

      But electronics change behaviour as much as they change capability. People rely on screens, sometimes too much. They assume others are doing the same. Visual signalling becomes secondary, a backup rather than a primary language.

      That assumption breaks down in precisely the moments when it matters most: fatigue, distraction, unfamiliar waters, visitors in hired boats, guests at the helm, people moving slowly and casually rather than standing a formal watch.

      Lights and shapes were designed to work in those moments. They require no battery beyond the one already powering the boat. They require no shared protocol beyond human vision.

      Is This a Problem, or Just Change?

      This is where the conclusion becomes less clear-cut.

      On the one hand, it is hard to argue that modern anchorages are dramatically more dangerous than those of the past. Boats are generally better built, anchors better designed, weather information better distributed. Many incidents are avoided through technology that simply did not exist before.

      On the other hand, near-misses are rarely recorded. Confusion, hesitation, and last-second course changes are accepted as normal. The fact that something “usually works out” is not evidence that the system is well designed.

      The loss of the riding light is not catastrophic. It is incremental. It makes anchorages slightly harder to read, slightly more ambiguous, slightly more dependent on attention being perfect.

      That earns it neither an A nor an F. A C feels about right.

      Culture Matters More

      Perhaps the most telling observation is not about lights at all, but about mindset.

      Vessels that still carry riding lights, hoist anchor balls, or otherwise signal clearly tend to be operated by people who think in terms of shared space. They see anchoring not as parking, but as participating in a system.

      This is not about tradition for its own sake. It is about recognising that boats communicate, whether we intend them to or not. The question is whether that communication is clear.

      The quiet tragedy is that as practices fade, so does the language to describe them. Many sailors today have never heard the term “riding light.” They are not rejecting the idea. They simply do not know it exists.

      When vocabulary disappears, so does choice.

      Where This Leaves Us

      There is no realistic call to reinstate old rules wholesale. Nor should there be. Boats are diverse, anchorages vary, and one size rarely fits all.

      But there is room for better thinking.

      Anchor lights could be designed with anchorage contexts in mind: adjustable brightness, secondary lower references, warmer colour temperatures. Education could place more emphasis on readability rather than mere visibility. Day shapes could be treated as meaningful again, not ceremonial.

      Most of all, sailors could be encouraged to ask a simple question when anchoring for the night:

      “If someone looks up for one second, will they understand where I am?”

      Sometimes the masthead light is enough. Sometimes it isn’t.

      The riding light was one answer to that question. Not a perfect one, but a thoughtful one. Losing it without replacing the thinking behind it feels like a missed opportunity.

      Not a disaster. Just a quiet downgrade.

      LOOSE CANNON covers hard news, technical issues and nautical history. Subscribe for free to support the work. If you’ve been reading for a while—and you like it—consider upgrading to paid.


       
       
       
       
       
       
      A guest post by
      Boatshed Neil

      Founder of Boatshed.com and sailor, plus I try to write stuff when I can 🙂
       

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    • Florida Boaters Now Have Access to Free State-Approved Online Boating Safety Course – BoatUS Foundation

      BoatUS

      BoatUS is the leading advocate for boating safety in the US and A CRUISERS NET SPONSOR. 

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      Florida Boaters Can Now Take Free 
      State-Approved Boating Safety Course  

      At-home learning helps Florida boaters prepare for the water easily and conveniently  

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      FORT LAUDERDALE, Fla. – February 4, 2026 – The BoatUS Foundation for Boating Safety and Clean Water has launched the only free interactive boating safety course for Florida recreational boaters.

      The course, which is approved by the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission and meets state boating safety education requirements, can be taken at the student’s own pace. After passing the exam, they can print their own certificate of completion for immediate use and will receive a lifetime card from the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission.  

      The course provides video demonstrations and sample common boating situations for students to interact with to better understand how to evaluate real-world instances. The learning experience includes storylines where the student “boats” to various places and includes interactive learning tools like flashcards and drag-and-drop features to enhance learning and retention. Course-takers will be able to design and name the virtual boat that takes them through the course and map how far they’ve “traveled” within it. 

       

      In the state of Florida, anyone born on or after January 1, 1988, who operates a vessel powered by 10 horsepower or more must pass an approved boating safety course and have in his/her possession photographic identification and proof of boating safety education completion issued by the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission. 

      The online BoatUS Foundation boating safety course and exam are approved by the National Association of State Boating Law Administrators (NASBLA) and recognized by the U.S. Coast Guard as exceeding the minimum requirements for the National Recreational Boating Safety Program. 

      “NASBLA approval of our Florida Boating Safety Course is a meaningful investment in boater safety, said Lynne O’Hearn, Program Manager at BoatUS Foundation. “Boater education is one of the most effective ways to prevent accidents, and this course gives Florida boaters the opportunity to build their skills to better enjoy Florida waterways safely.”  

      To take the course, visit BoatUS.org/Florida. For more information about Florida boating safety education, visit myfwc.com/boating/safety-education. 

      About BoatUS Foundation for Boating Safety and Clean Water: 

      The BoatUS Foundation for Boating Safety and Clean Water is a national leader promoting safe, clean and responsible boating. Funded primarily by donations from the more than 740,000 members of Boat Owners Association of The United States (BoatUS), the nonprofit provides innovative educational outreach directly to boaters and anglers with the aim of reducing accidents and fatalities, increasing stewardship of America’s waterways, and keeping boating safe for all. A range of safe and clean boating courses – including the nation’s only free online boating safety course – can be found at BoatUS.org/Courses. 

      The views expressed in this media release are solely those of the sender and do not necessarily reflect the views of Cision.

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    • Flash! Bang! Growing Pyrotechnic Answer to the Orca Threat – Peter Swanson

      Cruisers Net publishes Loose Cannon articles with Captain Swanson’s permission in hopes that mariners with salt water in their veins will subscribe. $7 a month or $56 for the year, and you may cancel at any time.

         
       
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      Flash! Bang! Growing Pyrotechnic Answer to the Orca Threat

      Sailors Are Adopting an Illegal Tactic Because It Seems To Work

       
       
       
       
       

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      Spiral of Life lies trapped on a beach in Portugal in early December.

      We’re not supposed to call ’em attacks because that, I guess, would be prejudicial. “Interactions” is better, we are told.

      So, let’s just say it: Orcas are the ones that have been doing the interacting and with extreme prejudice, as they continue to ram sailboats off Iberia’s Atlantic coast. There have been a reported 700 of these non-attacks since 2020.

      The latest interaction was a doozy. The headline-writer hadn’t gotten the memo: “Scary Moment as 30 Killer Whales Attack Family’s Yacht.”

      Can you imagine? Thirty of them!

      Except, it’s likely untrue. Most of the Orca incidents have involved a half dozen or so of the animals, dubbed the “Gladiator Pod,” but six or seven is bad enough.

      The headline-writer must have been including every orca in a 500-mile radius in that interaction, because there is no record of Michael and Laura of Spiral of Life Sailing (yes, a YouTube channel) asserting that number.

      Gladiators have been credited with sinking six or seven vessels, but without killing or injuring any humans (after which must be added the obligatory) —yet. Most of the sinkings appear to have happened from heavy blows to spade rudders typical on modern cruising craft.

      Share

      According to a December 30 article in the Independent, the Dutch couple was sailing between Porto and Lisbon “when their vessel was ‘violently’ buffeted by orcas at around 5 a.m.”

      “I disengaged the autopilot and grabbed the wheel and then we got hit again. The hit ripped the wheel out of my hands for a moment,” Michael said in a video about the incident. “I grabbed it back as fast as I could, and then I heard it—right next to the boat—splashing and that heavy breathing you never forget once you’ve heard.”

      (You can watch the episode below.)

      Having heard that orcas prefer deep water, they steered the Bavaria 46 toward the Portuguese coast. In the terror and chaos of the moment, however, they forgot how close to shore they were to begin with. Spiral of Life ran up onto the beach and flopped on her side, having been herded aground by swimming animals said to have the thought processing abilities of a human ninth-grader.

      With the help of locals, Michael and Laura were able to recover their boat and are having repairs made.

      Boom! Just Like That

      Meanwhile, a growing number of European sailors are adopting what you might say are teenage tactics to deal with a teenage threat. They are throwing firecrackers at the whales—the kind that will explode underwater.

      Think 1943: Destroyers versus Uboats.

      As EuropaSur has reported:

      Frequent orca attacks in the Strait of Gibraltar and the Gulf of Cádiz have led to a surge in sales of water fireworks in shops like those in Algeciras, despite the fact that it is forbidden to carry them and even more so to use them to scare away these or other marine animals.

      Consumer fireworks are generally illegal in Portugal, so cruisers are stocking up in the Galicia region of Spain in the north or Andalusia in the south. Petardos, as they are called, are even sold at nautical chandleries.¹

      Confronted by orcas, sailors have tried dumping sand or diesel fuel, activating pingers or motoring in reverse. No joy.

      According to yet another YouTube sailor, a sensible sounding guy who goes by the handle Reversing Entropy, fireworks are the only “anectdotally proven” countermeasure.²

      Every report you hear about people using this, you know, mouth to mouth, people are not putting this on the internet because, you know, it’s illegal. But everyone’s story seems to end the same way. They deploy the firecracker inside of the water and the orcas just swim away.

      We don’t want to hurt them. We don’t want anything bad to happen to them. We just want them not to sink our boat. This practice seems to be so effective that I hear from reliable sources that you can now buy in Spain in chandleries a kit that comes with the firecrackers and a big pole. You attach the firecracker to the front of the pole and you immerse them into water, let it explode, and then, you know, get it back.

      As it happens, orcas are extremely sensitive to sound and rely on it for hunting, communication and navigation using echolocation. And sound travels very efficiently underwater.

      A January 19 story in the U.K.’s Daily Mail quoted a study of the orca pod in question (lead by a female that scientists call White Gladys), which noted that the Gladiator Pod is an unusually quiet bunch:

      Orca pods are typically very vocal, especially when they are hunting or playing, but White Gladis and her team pulled apart stranded yachts in eerie silence.

      However, scientists have now discovered that this is merely a tactical choice. Like most pods, the orcas that live around Ibera and the Strait of Gibraltar specialise in hunting a single type of prey.

      Because these killer whales are experts in tackling the alert and flighty tuna, they have learned to hunt in silence and avoid any noise that might startle the fish.

      Naturally, the depth-charging of whales is driving environmentalists and animal rights groups crazy. Some sailors are against it, too, arguing that Gladys and crew will treat it as an escalation and respond by increasing the ferocity of their interactions.

      Which is giving orcas a lot of credit, but hey…who knows?

      “All you firecracker supporters are doing is making the attacks increasingly ferocious, and you’ll be justifying the use of more powerful explosives. Sadly, it’s already happening,” a Norwegian sailor wrote on an online forum.

      Did he say attacks?

      LOOSE CANNON covers hard news, technical issues and nautical history. Every so often he tries to be funny. Subscribe for free to support the work. If you’ve been reading for a while—and you like it—consider upgrading to paid.

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      1

      As in: “Hoisted by his own petard.”

      2

      Having been “killed” in a mortar attack (in training with military flash-bangs), I can attest to the disorientation and fear that these can induce in a human being.

       

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    • Researcher Annie Harshbarger reveals pilot whale behavior – Coastal Review

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    • February Tidal Flooding & A Fresh Look for US Harbors – US Harbors Newsletter

      Here is an informative newsletter to which you may subscribe. Its abundant harbor information will be useful as you travel the East Coast this fall, by boat or by car.

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    • The Sea Pines Resort – March 2026 Events Calendar, Harbour Town Yacht Basin, SC AICW MM 565


      Harbour Town at Hilton Head, with its familiar red-and-white-striped lighthouse, is a fine resort marina with an enormous number of amenities.

      Harbour Town Yacht Basin, A CRUISERS NET SPONSOR, is ready for your reservation with newly renovated docks, upgraded electrical service and onSpot WiFi, also a CRUISERS NET SPONSOR. And, as always, numerous activities at the Sea Pines Resort are offered for your enjoyment, as you will see in the Event Schedule below. Hilton Head Island is absolutely marvelous any time of year.

       

       

       

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    • The Sea Pines Resort – February 2026 Events Calendar, Harbour Town Yacht Basin, SC AICW MM 565


      Harbour Town at Hilton Head, with its familiar red-and-white-striped lighthouse, is a fine resort marina with an enormous number of amenities.

      Harbour Town Yacht Basin, A CRUISERS NET SPONSOR, is ready for your reservation with newly renovated docks, upgraded electrical service and onSpot WiFi, also a CRUISERS NET SPONSOR. And, as always, numerous activities at the Sea Pines Resort are offered for your enjoyment, as you will see in the Event Schedule below. Hilton Head Island is absolutely marvelous any time of year.

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    • Cruisers’ Net Weekly Newsletter – January 30, 2026

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    • Fishermen’s Village February 2026 Calendars, Punta Gorda, FL


      Fisherman's Village Marina and Resort, Punta Gorda, FL

      There is always plenty to do around Charlotte Harbor. While berthed at Fishermen’s Village Marina, A CRUISERS NET SPONSOR, you are certain to enjoy visiting Western Florida’s beautiful Charlotte Harbor/Peace River.

      Fishermen’s Village February Calendars of Entertainment/Events

      February 2026 Sunset Beach Club Calendar 


      February 2026 Fisherman’s Village Calendar

      Kathy Burnam
      Special Events & Community Relations

      941.639.8721

      kburnam@fishermensvillage.com

      www.fishermensvillage.com

      Click Here To View the Western Florida Cruisers Net Marina Directory Listing For Fishermen’s Village

      Click Here To Open A Chart View Window Zoomed To the Location of Fishermen’s Village

       

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    • Major East Coast Storm Update: Powerful Winter Storm Likely – Fred Pickhardt

      Fred Pickhardt’s Substack is free today. But if you enjoyed this post, you can tell Fred Pickhardt’s Substack that their writing is valuable by pledging a future subscription. You won’t be charged unless they enable payments.

       
         
       
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      Major East Coast Storm Update:

      Powerful Winter Storm Likely

       
       
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      A powerful winter storm, forecast to intensify into a “bomb cyclone,” is expected to create dangerous marine conditions along the US East Coast and Western Atlantic from Saturday through Monday…

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    • Weather Alert (Jan 29): Snowstorm This Weekend – SCDNR

       

       

       

      South Carolina Department of Natural Resources color logo and white text of agency name and State Climatology Office

      Weather Alert  –  January 29, 2026

      Snowstorm This Weekend

      Key Points:

      • A snowstorm is likely to affect South Carolina Friday night through Saturday night. A Winter Storm Watch is in effect for the entire state.
      • Many areas may see light rain at the onset, and parts of the Coastal Plain may see up to a few hours of sleet and freezing rain. However, the risk for power outages will be low because significant ice buildup is unlikely, and the snow will be dry and fluffy.
      • Snow will start Friday evening in the Upstate and spread over the state through the night, reaching I-20 by around midnight and the Lowcountry around daybreak.
      • There remains uncertainty about how much snow will fall. However, the Catawba Region, the Pee Dee, and perhaps the Grand Strand will likely see the heaviest snowfall.
      • Snow will taper off from west to east on Sunday, ending by daybreak in the Upstate and by midday along the Grand Strand.
      • Winds will increase during the storm with peak gusts of 35-40 mph along the coast and around 30 mph elsewhere on Sunday. The wind will cause blowing and drifting snow where we see a substantial accumulation. The winds will also drive wind chills down to the single digits and teens over most of the state on Saturday through Sunday.
      • Roads will become slippery for a few days where substantial snow falls because it will remain cold behind the storm, resulting in slow daytime melting and nighttime refreezing. The extent and duration of potential travel problems are uncertain; it will depend on how much snow falls.

      It’s gonna snow this weekend, y’all, with impacts from the storm lingering into early next week. The only questions are how much, and who gets the heaviest.

      In the meantime:

      • A moisture-starved front in the area through tonight brings us some high clouds, but no rain or snow. Probably would have been snow with a better supply of moisture.
      • Clouds will increase on Friday into Friday night ahead of the approaching storm. Highs on Friday will range from the low 40s in the Upstate to the upper 50s in the far south.

      Uncertainty remains in the forecast, but there is more confidence than before. We can provide you with an accumulation forecast now; here’s what the National Weather Service (NWS) is calling for:

      The latest statewide snow accumulation map for South Carolina from the National Weather Service indicates heavy snow north of I-20.

      The current questions are about where the heaviest snow falls and how much we all see. The heaviest snow may fall over tomato-and-vinegar country instead of here, though it’s most likely that some of the heavy snow will affect the northern part of the state. The greatest uncertainty for snow amounts is over the Grand Strand and lower Pee Dee region; the ceiling is pretty high there, but the most likely scenario is relatively low. I just did a quick check before sending this out; it looks like the NWS is in the process of increasing the forecast snow for the Pee Dee region, so don’t be surprised to see the forecast for that area being bumped up.

      Storms like these sometimes cause oddities, such as a large difference in snowfall over a relatively short distance, due to small bands of heavy snow that often form. Don’t be surprised if what falls in your backyard varies a lot from what a buddy of yours 15 miles away sees.

      The primary impact will be slippery travel, since it’s going to be mainly dry, fluffy snow (parts of the coastal Plain might see a brief period of freezing rain that would make elevated roads slick like a muddy pig). Snow-covered roads will be a problem Saturday through Monday morning, and it’s going to remain cold behind this storm, so the roads could remain slick for a while. How hard it will become to get around and how long the roads remain bad will depend on how much snow falls. If you’re in an area that could see over three inches, start planning to avoid travel from Saturday through at least Monday. Areas to the south are likely to see lower impacts, but travel will be hazardous at least through Saturday and Sunday morning.

      Bundle up if you go out to play in the snow or if you must be out for work or an emergency; this is among the coldest snow events we’ve seen. The frigid winds will bring a bite, so layer up! Do check your pipes if you didn’t before the last storm to ensure that they’re properly insulated, because it will be at least as cold behind this storm as it was after the last one.

      What else can you do now? Check out SCEMD’s SC Winter Weather Guide and ready.gov for tips, and go from there.


      Frank Strait
      Severe Weather Liaison
      S.C. State Climate Office

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    • New Climate Reports Show ‘Unprecedented Run of Global Heat’ – Inside Climate News (ICN)

       

       

       

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    • Panama Diary: A Tiny Boat Stages for a Big Ocean – Loose Cannon

      Cruisers Net publishes Loose Cannon articles with Captain Swanson’s permission in hopes that mariners with saltwater in their veins will subscribe. $7 per month or $56 for the year; you may cancel at any time.

       
         
       
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      Panama Diary: A Tiny Boat Stages for a Big Ocean

      Young Couple in the Waning Days of ‘America’s Canal’

       
       
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      The author is a longtime professor of Psychology and Communications. She landed in Vermont in 1987 after a decade of cruising under sail. This is an excerpt from her forthcoming book tentatively entitled “Jenny: A Night Sea Journey.”


      A man. A plan. A canal: Panama. Panama is not a palindrome. Or maybe it is.

      I sailed through in 1983 with my husband and our cats on our 18-foot sloop we built together, as we headed for the Pacific and the unknown.

      The city on the Caribbean/Atlantic side felt spare and lonely. Big tall buildings! Banks galore. Sidewalks. A lot of concrete. Nobody walking but poor sailors. All of everybody in cars.

      One strip had carts with stuff that had “fallen off a ship,” a weird selection of mattresses and televisions and blenders which were of no interest to me but also: I scored my favorite cigs in a red pack with gold stripes called “mores.”

      Normally they burn slowly and go out if not drawn upon. But these were stale and the brown paper perforated by worms who surely had long since perished of nicotine poisoning. But I fancied I could hear crackling carcasses as I performed their cremation. Such is life.

      We anchored off but then managed a pretty funny maneuver into the quayside dock “butt first” which Claude had never attempted before, but I knew well enough from sailing Europe and heavily tidal northern waters.

      Over the noise of our outboard I pointed where I wanted to drop anchor out ahead and pay back line for reversing into our spot. All was smooth until, just a couple feet from the dock, he got confused (when you stand facing aft, the handle of the outboard twists the opposite way you might think) and gave a bunch of idle spectators on the dock a really nice sloshing wake up call while also denting our Navik self steering wind vane mount with the sudden, crescendo crash into the dock.

      It’s okay. These things happen. Of course I shouldn’t have been howling with laughter on the foredeck but…oh well. Our journey from Miami so far had not been very funny. It was nice to be snugged up like leaves on a stalk next to so many other sailing cruising boats. Most of them were twice our length over all.

      Unfortunately, one of our cats managed to hurl herself an astonishing distance to the dock during the night, had a grand old time satisfying the old freudian drives, and returned with a thump and pregnant. Which we only realized much later. Much too late.

      Anyway, we also happened to be next to a German yacht whose man was a brute and wife wore a bra—not a bikini, just a sort of really big heavy halter—white, no lace deceptions. When one morning he got mad at her and hurled his sextant box out the companionway at her. She shrieked and headed for the stern. I was sewing in our cockpit, with my sewing machine hooked up to the shore power, when this happened.

      I heard it and some sort of animal thing took over, and I was dashing to get over our lifeline and on board their boat when my partner caught me by the right heel and stopped me, hissing “Chenevee, do not get HINVOLVE!” Well, he had a point. But the woman and I exchanged looks and the man backed down.

      Yellow? Ooof!

      The only other memories I have of that end of the Canal include meeting the 60-year-old transatlantic mini-class solo sailor Margaret, who repeated her sentences two or even three times in a crisp middle class British accent over and over, as if perhaps she doubted whether she’d actually said it out loud or only thought the sentence first.

      Margaret had singlehanded her 24-foot micro-mini across the Atlantic in a race, and decided to just keep going. When I met her she was drying her scant few clothes strung in the rigging but dockside so plenty fresh water and somehow we got on the subject of colors. All I can tell you is she hated the color yellow and blamed it on her childhood schoolteacher, but that’s all I recall of the issue.

      “Yellow. Ooof, I despise yellow. Ugly color. Really should be outlawed. Hideous in any application.” (She repeated this enough times that I can remember it effortlessly.) She herself had grown up to become a schoolteacher, the British kind who brook no liberties with wrong colors or wrong words.

      She read one of my articles in progress and scoffed “Careering, there is no such word as Careering! You mean careening!” Hmmmm. She was probably right, but I’m damned stubborn when it comes to word choices. As you’ve probably noticed. That, and Claude walking back to our boat in a huff down the dock.

      What’s wrong?

      “I have go up to de bar, and they HINSULT me about the size of de boat!” They may have had a point. But I noticed that his beard had grown long and sort of jutting out making an exaggerated sort of “jutting chin out belligerently” profile. So that night I trimmed it way down. He needed no extra provocations to incite fights with any random strangers. Get the beard under control.

      Tons of grey metal filing cabinets and those super heavy military type desks that filled me with both awe and dread of bureaucracy. How the hell do you spell bureaucracy? How the hell do you survive it? Autocorrect is currently useless. I carry on nevertheless. The other friends we made there were Belgian Alex and his blind dog Oscar on a 23-foot racing class sloop, and Per Bengtzen with his very seaworthy Swedish 23-foot Calidris.

      We were the small boats. We all passed through the canal in a matter of days and had varied experiences but met on the other side and across the Pacific over the next several years.

      There were also some with larger boats among our société du seau. The society of buckets—we who did not have working heads down below. That’s all it took to belong to our little club.

      Jean Claude had a 40-foot chined metal hull, in the Trismus style so favored by French sailors. A trismus is a tooth cavity or a dental filling, an apt image for these flush deck aluminum or steel hull designs.

      So, we’d made friends back in Miami before serendipitously meeting again in Panama. We struck a deal that he would try to speak only English and I would try to speak only French to improve our skills. As a result we had very odd conversations.

      We hopped a bus, these glorious confetti style trucks replete with flashing multi colored string lights and windows hand painted with icons of a romantic and/or religious themes, like Madonna and Child next to Marie y Jesus troo luv, streamers streaming from their handlebars, always packed to the brim.

      They race each other wildly and play the salsa very loud—so I had to raise my voice even louder to say to Jean Claude, “Hey Jean-Claude! Vrais Bonne decor, eh?”

      Like so many Zonar French men, he practiced being blaise and unimpressed by everything.

      But this declaration got a reaction, finally! My statement electrified him and Claude both. They panicked and whipped their heads around the crowd as if to fight. They thought I had said, “vrais bande de cons” which would be “a real bunch of cunts, eh?” Fortunately everyone aboard was as clueless as I was about French.

      Canal Memories

      Okay, there were dozens of military offices to enter and exit, after which our wallets were emptier but pockets stuffed with documents. The boats tonnage had to be calculated, which I learned was an acrobatic feat to determine volume not weight. I think we weighed something like the Egyptian feather by that time. We’d eaten and shared everything we brought from Miami.

      Finally, we received clearance to pass the much storied Panama Canal on a Tuesday, with a designated pilot aboard. Our pilot had a prodigious black waxy moustache, dark glasses, and a snappy well-pressed uniform. Claude, although I had trimmed his beard, was still acting out the sort of belligerent thing that, having reached a certain age, seemed quite ridiculous to me.

      The pilot was matching his puffery until it seemed the two of them would explode before we ever got through to the other side. It reminded me of two roosters in the same henhouse. They chest bumped all the next 12 hours as we putt-putted through. There’s not a lot of room for such pageantry aboard an 18-foot sloop.

      I gathered that the pilot, who was Panamanian, had taken grief from his buddies for the indignity of taking our little boat through, in the very wake of the grand ocean liner the QE2. Speaking Spanish, he told me that the U.S. had a 90-year lease coming to a conclusion shortly and after that it would only ever be pilotes de Panama to guide boats through. This thought gave him much pride and satisfaction. I nodded and said “bueno!”

      My Spanish wasn’t good, but he did share that these stunted burnt tree stumps sticking up all over Gatun Lake were left over from the construction of the Canal. Spooky. Spookier even than the Dismal Swamp Canal that I had traveled years earlier—and reaching my hand to loop a line around to a piling by a lock, discovered a dead bat hanging upside down from a nail.

      Did the bat die there, clinging to the piling? Evidently so. Why? Will never know. The locks were breathtakingly huge and mossy and turbulent, and we went up up up up and up.

      Sometimes we would cling alongside a tugboat. Sometimes I’m just standing like an ant on the foredeck as monkey fist hawsers come hurling and unfurling down at me from the spidery men on the bollards way above. I was pretty lucky and good at catching these without concussions. The pilot decided I was alright.

      That was climbing the ladder upwards. Then the broiling waters gave way, and we could just navigate the still waters gliding like a dream across the Gatun Lake, watching the green and red markers, the squares and triangles shining like a strange runway towards the edge of the world. The Lake is well above sea level and I felt that in my bones.

      I had visions of death and felt the agonies of the builders—the laborers who had dug all this “engineering” into being. I felt deeply impressed by the souls who hovered there. My mood was dark and as deceptive as the placid silvery sheen as these still waters sort of mirrored the burnt grasps of the dead trees: they claw upwards. I said nothing, but I listened hard.

      The pilot began to have bigger problems with my French-Canadian husband as we descended down the remaining stairs of the lock system. The water would surge out the gates, we would surge forward, the enormous hawsers I had bent to our little lines would yank taut, and water shot out the spirals, but in the cockpit the two of them—they’d be yelling at each other in their respective languages, with no let.

      I made hasty spaghetti with our last reserves. A precious onion, a clove of garlic, tomato paste on my frying pan over the kerosene Primus. A saltwater pot of pasta. Nobody would eat. On the Pacific side: It was dark, and there were unpleasant epithets in both French and down rosy Spanish as our pilot stepped off the deck. Had to climb up a ladder. Kinda ruined the flourish of his exit.

      I can still see his khaki bum ascending. I’m sure there’s music for that.

      We get to the anchorage below a bridge across the wide channel. Hardly any gas left in our Jerry jugs. Nobody told us the tide on this side is an 18-foot raging torrent twice a day. It’s half-mile row across this maelstrom twice a day for supplies. We only have a ridiculous little orange dink shaped pretty much like a donut.

      I timed it so we always do errands on the slack and get back on the slack. I’m super lucky to land a job paying cash—American green from the wife of an American pilot named Bernasconi. I made a rare phone call by pay phone to my parents and mother put us in touch.

      So, I painted her kitchen cupboards a nice shiny white with bright red doors. We bought enough provisions to get us over the horizon. We hope. Two arms of plantains complete with gnats and fruit flies (who will only mysteriously appear much later in the doldrums.) At a grocery store I cannot find any cat food. I am at the counter: “Yum yum para la meow meow?”

      The bag boy lights up and plays my game. “No, no solamente yum yum para la woof woof!” And grabs me a big bag of dog food. Okay, gracias!

      Movie Night

      One day we small boat friends pitched in to pay a taxi to take us to a movie, “Sophie’s Choice.” On the way we get stuck. I ask the driver about the protest blocking the road. I’m the only one in car with enough Spanish to gather it’s about something political. This is a “manifestation,” he says. I chew on that a while. Manifesting what? He wouldn’t say, or I couldn’t understand.

      Nobody else really cared. They just want to get to the movie already. Some of the signs were about the U.S., a theme I would see repeated years later on the island of New Caledonia. It’s about a fight for independence, I explained. The crew was like massively unimpressed. But the people were throngs blocking all the roads. Something mattered to them.

      The streets were also full of men dressed in uniforms. I recognized some uniforms as military or police, but who were these big bellied old guys sitting in the pickup trucks with various colored sashes and magazines of ammo and casual firearms idling or racing around, drinking and smoking as they watched everyone? I was told they are self appointed neighborhood militias. To keep people safe. I didn’t feel safer.

      The movie was dubbed in Spanish with French subtitles. I followed okay except for the scene where Sophie is getting her skirt pulled up by some official in a side room. I think part of me checked out then. We walked, the five of us, all the way back to the harbor.

      The tide wasn’t too strong at the time, so we all somehow got back to our boats at anchor, and I said:

      We need to sail out tomorrow.

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      A guest post by

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